Ascents by Brendan Heywood

After a good rest day we were much better prepped and had a proper alpine start for this. Had a tourist chopper buzz us at some point. On the start of the 3rd pitch stemming over the mini waterfall my foot blew on dodgy rock and I tumbled about 5m back to the belay. In hind sight it is probably the worst fall I've ever had but luckily I was barely hurt with just a bruised forearm which has yellowed up nicely since. 'With care' is an understatement of the start of pitch 3. Pitch 5 has a fantastic airy crux and is the jewel in this route. We topped out with plenty of light and back on the ground at dusk, then hoofed it back to the car and home

Quite a nice solid sequence and easier than V4

Solo no pad. Feels possibly soft but so jug tastic for granite

Thought this would put up more fight! This is easier than half the V2’s at gara, so maybe I have sand bagged gara a little...

Having tasted the sharp rock I taped up, pumped through the cool flake moves and had a good shake on the mid ledge, then powered up the jugs. Very happy with the onsight! Has to redo it cause no one else wanted to second it

Super fun jugs. Got numb hands from the cold at the crux and just meat hooked my way to freedom.

And just to top things off I onsighted this as a warmdown, nice end to session.

Sweet onsight, first problem of the day

Fun!

Happy onsight, fun big moves

Felt like trad bouldering, very happy to nail it first go brushing as I went

Reached high to lip instead of staying in the crack, felt a bit cheaty but safer. Fall needs lots of pads to do cleanly

First half is awesome fun, then long gaston into the groove and then desperate grovelling up the unscrubbed groove

Stoked to onsight this, blind moves. Think I mostly fluked it great quality rock

Thought this would be a lot harder

Super pleased to finally get back to this, and happy it wasn't hard as we only had 2 pads. Def got the heart beating, Carol got a bit daunted but got it second go

Yus!

Utterly frothed that this went, although the alternative was probably a bad fall onto ankle deep water so I was incentivized!

Such a beautiful unique line! Delicate and thuggish at the same time

More sloper goodness

I love it when people joke about a SDS and then it comes actually appears from nowhere

I think ties with Caudal fin direct as best problem of the day

This is fun and spicy

It's funny that this was the first thing we imagined on this rock, but then got so obsessed with the traverse we only did this today, and still only as an afterthought. But it is an obvious warmup for the full traverse, and is still a worthy problem in its own right.

Pure finger licking good chicken wings. Left side in, tried right side with no luck

Yet another sick little problem that appeared out of nowhere on rock that I've scoured many times. Lots of core and bicep action, very happy to do it first go

Finally something achieved!

Fun! The hardest moves are the bouldery sequence getting off the ground. I'm counting as an onsight, but I got half way up before scotty informed me I didn't have any draws. Doh! In hindsight I should have got him to throw some up.

The first pitch isn't inspiring but from half way through the second until the very end it's high quality fun all the way. Scott lead most of it while I lead the crux pitch.

Warmup. Got very warm

Threaded a sling through the hole for a first clip but isn't needed

I'm gonna make the bold call that this is one of the best routes I've done at Ebor. Feel like a sports route relocated from a completely different crag. Worlds apart from Tough customer in grade and style

Sick

Fun moves over the blocks

Instant classic, we all did laps on it

In the rain - spoogy!

Onsighted this, was surprisingly easy.

A bit scary, the hold at the top looks suspiciously shaped

'No pad onsight'. Should that be a new tick type? Or is that just a solo?

Almost blew the onsight, was a bit thinner than I was expecting

Was expecting this to be hard, pretty cool side move

Fun fun!

Started raining right after