Ascents in White Mountains by David Gibbs

Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.

Lead all the pitches except 2 & 3.

Was quite wet in places, including the crux moves on pitch 6, making for extra excitement. Still very climbable, though.

Though, the "4th class" on pitch 9 was quite exciting when soaking wet.

Pitches 0-3 went smoothly; pitch 4 took one rest to figure out route. Didn't like the look of the pitch 5 traverse. Again.

Route is dirty and mossy in places -- doesn't seem like it gets climbed much.

Protects well for a climb at Whitehorse Ledge.

Lead all the pitches. Went quite smoothly, some run-outs, as expected, but nothing that really bothered me. Did pitches 8-10 as a scramble/free solo.

Did the first 4 pitches before lowering off. Pitch 2 has a couple bolts, which greatly reduces the commitment level on this route from how it was, I think, originally ascended.

Got to the top of pitch 4, and looked at the pitch 5 traverse -- lots of moss on the slab, and very little visible protection. Clean rock, and we'd have risked thin protection, or obvious good protection and we'd have risked the moss -- but not the combo. Also, I was pretty sure we could rap on one 70m from there, but not later. After we start rappelling it spit rain, and it dumped just as we finished.

Took one quick rest by grabbing a sling while assessing and before committing to the crux, otherwise a nice clean ascent. This is a nice way to do the Standard Route -- it avoids some of the really bad rope drag of the skipped pitches.

Linked pitches 3 & 4. Skipped the "crux" pitch by doing the 5.7 "Direct Finish" variation. A lot of fun climbing.