Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 26th May 2024 - Weir | ||||||
| Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | ||||||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Aucun Idée
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★ Pop Corn
| 27m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 Hard |
Ruban Rose
| 27m | ||||
| 5.9 Hard |
★ Voie du Boulot
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 25th May 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Left Wing Upper Left Wing | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Fractus
| 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Lemon Technique
| 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 25th May 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Left Wing Main Cliff | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Pelennor
| 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ A Story for Jan
| 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 18th May 2024 - Lac Tucker | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Birthday Bunduru (original route)
1
5.9
25
Was soaking wet, so much more challenging. Rested on gear about half-way up, otherwise clean.
2
5.7
23
First few moves off the anchor are 5.7 -- rest about 5.5 or easier.
3
5.9
36
Took three tries to get the initial traverse right from the anchor, which is thin slab (5.9). Rest goes closer to 5.7, but is run-out near the end.
4
5.5
35
A rambly final pitch, and committing as a 5.5 leader since moves at grade need to be done before the first gear placement. | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Lead this with P1 soaking wet, except followed P4.
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| Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| La Petite Folie | ||||||
| 5.8 Hard |
★★ (new 2020? sport slab)
| 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Colonel Kirtz
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Short but hard.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Hanibal Lecter
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.4 |
★★ Encore! mon lapin
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 12th May 2024 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Controverse | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★ hiroshima
| 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
|
Actually climbed this as Hirosaki -- gear up the opening section, then past the intermediate anchor on the bolts from Nagasaki to finish on its anchor.
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| 5.6 |
★ nagasaki
| 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Climbed this as Nagashima -- first three bolts of Nagasaki, then switch to the bolted (formerly trad) section of Hiroshima.
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| 5.8 |
★ friction constitutionnelle
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ controverse
| 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
| Secteur Tomahawk | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★★ Déclic
| 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The finish is a bit run-out, but the climbing eases off, too.
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| Sat 11th May 2024 - Kanata (Tremblant) | ||||||
| Secteur Dallecoolique | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ Une petite vite d'amour
| 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
I was surprised to get this clean. Guess I have to lead it, next.
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| 5.10a Hard |
★★ Fausse Alerte
| 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Sustained slab.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Petite Gymnastique
| 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Short, but good.
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| 5.8 G |
★★★ Il est grand temps
| 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Start was soaking wet and slimy, other bits were wet in the crack, so we decided to TR it.
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| 5.10b |
★★ Go Godasse
| 26m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
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One little foot slip!
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| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Carrefour Giratoire
| 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★★ Dans le Bon Vieux Temps
| 32m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
| 5.8 Hard |
★★ L'Abeille
| 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Mostly on Simon's gear, though I did add one piece. Gear was good, and good stance for placing it, so could easily have place it myself.
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| 5.9 Hard |
★★ Plein Des Mains
| 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Au Bord du Gouffre
| 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Le Mur Principale | ||||||
| 5.6 Hard |
★ L'Éperon
| 28m | ★ Good | |||
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Might be 5.7 if you avoid pulling on the large loose block.
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| 5.8 ~5.9 |
★ Rive Gauche
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Good climbing, but really hard for5.8, and looks like the gear would be tricky to place, too.
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| 5.7 Hard |
★★ La Fruitee
| 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Momo
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 3rd May 2024 - Rocher du Capitaine | ||||||
| Les voies | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Cueva de Blue
| 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★★ Relampago
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
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The hand jams are ok, but there's a lot more finger jams and finger locks on this than hand jams, and they're not-so-ok.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Nubes
| 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Zenith
| ★ Good | ||||
| 5.9 |
★★ DragonFly
| 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Wet in places, especially the crack, making it a bit more exciting.
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| 5.8 |
★ Pourquoi pas ?
| Average | ||||
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Went smoother than I expected. I should lead this next time.
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| 5.7 |
★ La Centrale
| ★ Good | ||||
| 5.10a |
★ Obélix
| Average | ||||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Scylla and Charybdis
| 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Jenga
| 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure
| 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.
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| 5.7 PG |
★★ Big Finish
| 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
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Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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| 5.8 ~5.8 |
★ Ovipositor to Sunday Morning Stroll
| 25m, 10 | Average | |||
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Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.
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| 5.5 |
★ Sunday Morning Stroll
| 25m, 11 | Average | |||
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The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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| Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Lower Cliff | ||||||
| 5.9 Hard |
★★ Little Lion Face
| 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Randy Moss
| 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.7 Hard |
★ Giggles
| 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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| 5.9 Hard |
★★ Time to Rock It
| 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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| 5.7 |
Stairway to Hell - right variant
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
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Could use some more cleaning, but if that is done, would be a fine route.
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| 5.8 ~5.9 |
★★ Diggy Diggy Hole
| 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
| 5.6 Easy |
Pile poil
| 2 | Don't Bother | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Chas percé
| 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.5 Hard |
★ La vieille
| 10m, 1 | Average | |||
| 5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Métaphysique de Descartes
| 20m, 3 | Average | |||
| 5.9 ~5.8 |
★★ 4 à 6
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.6 Easy |
★★ Haute en couleur
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.6 |
★★ La voie normale
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★ Rencontre au sommet
| 28m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★★ Trois fois rien
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★ La quatre voies
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.6 Easy |
Right Arete
| 12m | Average | |||
| 5.6 Easy |
★★ Highball
| 12m | Average | |||
| 5.8 ~5.7 |
★★ Mysophobie
| 12m, 6 | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ Gros orteil
| 12m, 5 | ||||
| 5.6 |
★ Esprit de famille
| 12m, 4 | ||||
| 5.5 |
★ La lili
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
| 5.9 Easy |
★★ Open Season
| 4 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
| Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
| 5.10b Easy |
★★ La Madrina
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
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Had a foot slip, and thought I was going for a ride, but my hand was wedged into a crack, so it caught me. I think I may have wrenched my left shoulder a bit, though.
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| 5.10b |
★★ Assimilation
| 15m, 5 | Average | |||
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After 7 or 8 falls at the second bolt, my fingers were starting to ache from the crimps, so I gave up.
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| 5.4 |
Black Book
| 15m | ||||
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same, TR before bolting. Pretty consistent at 5.4, and everyone loves having a 5.4 sport route around, right?
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| 5.7 |
★★★ In The Black
| 15m | ||||
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Thinking of throwing some bolts in here, wanted to TR it again to see what I thought.
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| 5.9 ~5.10b |
Real Men Don't Place Pro
| 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
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This is, very definitely "old school" 5.9. Crux is probably around 5.10b, but (at least) protected by a bolt. Rest of the gear to that point doesn't look great, either.
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| 5.10b |
★★ Locutus
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Surprised at how easily this went. Really good friction today with the cooler temperature must have helped.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot.
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
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One fall because I screwed up the beta at the crux.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Warbird
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★★ Make it So
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
| Grand Canyon | ||||||
| 5.5 Hard |
★★ Le Marchand de Sable
| 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous
| 20m, 6 | Average | |||
| 5.8 ~5.9 |
★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan
| 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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| 5.10a |
★★ Pathfinder
| 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
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sigh one fall at the crux.
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| 5.7 ~5.8 |
★ La Belle de Cadix
| 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
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It has gotten more and more polished.
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| 5.7 |
★★ Le Castor Bricoleur
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
| Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Come From Away
| 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.7 |
★★ Scylla and Charybdis
| 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Jenga
| 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.7 PG |
★★ Big Finish
| 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.5 |
★ Sunday Morning Stroll
| 25m, 11 | Average | |||
| Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Weir | ||||||
| Mur de l'ouest Ionescu | ||||||
| 5.10b |
Romulus
| 20m, 7 | Average | |||
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Hard start, with an intimidating ledge fall if you don't make the 2nd clip -- I'd be inclined to suggest stick-clipping bolt 2.
Rest of the climb is mellow, with a touch of though needed near the end. |
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| 5.10a |
★★ Ace Rimmer
| 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ Peril Inoxydable
| 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.9 |
★ Carnage d'Acier
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ L'Entre Deux
| 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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One fall at the top bulge, because I missed finding a foot out to the left. Once I noticed it, finished smoothly.
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| 5.8 |
★★★ Le Diedre
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Still my favourite climb at the crag.
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
| Le Mur Principale | ||||||
| 5.9 ~5.10b |
★ Gueule de Loup
| 21m, 3 | ||||
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I was not able to make the moves past bolt 2, yet I was able to climb "L'Entre Deux" (5.10b) later the same day. No way those moves are 5.9.
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| 5.7 Hard |
★★ La Fruitee
| 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
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More crack-protected face climbing than crack climbing. Not a bad climb, but not my favourite.
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| 5.7 Hard |
★★ Momo
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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5.7 with crack skills, harder without.
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| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
| 5.3 |
★ Ground Zero
| 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
| Western Cwm North Wall | ||||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Route C
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||