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Ascents in New Hampshire by David Gibbs

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 126 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous
5.10a Arugula, Arugula Sport
Failed to pull the roof. Again.

 
5.8 Metamorphosis Sport Classic
Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.

 
5.8 Anchovie Caper Sport 6 Good
Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.

 
5.7 Half Nelson Sport Don't Bother
Still very sharp.

 
5.6 Rainbow Sport 7 Good
Steep for a 5.6

 
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall)
5.8 Hard Gold Digger Sport 8 Very Good
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right
5.7 Tipping Point P1
1 5.7 Sport
Sport 11 Good
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney
The Meadows No Money Down Area
5.8 Easy Terms Sport 14m, 4 Good
Not my best try.

 
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall
5.10b PG13 Med Dose Madness Sport 21m, 7
Couldn't pull the steep crimps around bolt 2.

 
5.8 Bolt Line Sport 24m, 8 Classic
Would be nice to have a bolt to the right for the start.

 
5.8/9 Hard Hippos on Parade Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
End of the day, and I expected to fall off, but didn't.

 
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney
The Meadows Holderness Buttress
5.8 Hard Curly for President Sport 27m, 9 Very Good
It was somewhat wet, and I got some air time.

 
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.6 ~5.7 Easily Amused Sport 10m, 3 Average
5.7 Glory Jean's Sport 24m, 8 Good
Sun 19th May 2019 - Rumney
Jimmy Cliff Right
5.8 Drilling for Dollars Sport 18m, 6 Good
Missed finding a good foot at one point, and peeled. Oh well.

 
5.7 The Nuthatch Sport 27m, 9 Very Good
I like chimneys.

 
5.8 The Junco Sport 24m, 8 Classic
Excellent climbing, too bad so many of the holds are telegraphed by chalk.

 
5.10a Lonesome Dove Sport 24m, 7 Classic
I got seduced by good holds out left at the 2nd bolt, and took a solid whipper while trying to find my way back right to clip bolt 3. Decided to try right, on the next attempt... but too far right. 3rd try, got it just right, and finished the rest of the climb clean.

Sometimes feel a bit distant between the bolts -- but the harder moves are always well protected, and you're generally clipping from a rest.

 
Sun 19th May 2019 - Rumney
Jimmy Cliff Left
5.9 Things I Never Learned Sport 18m, 6 Good
Came back and got it clean seconding it -- crux was still a bit tricky, but I found better beta.

 
5.9 Things I Never Learned Sport 18m, 6 Good
Fell twice on the initial bouldery crux, decided to give my belayer a break from catching more of those falls.

 
5.6 Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten Sport 21m, 7 Good
5.5 Piece of Cake Sport 21m, 7 Good
5.7 Teacher's Pet Sport 21m, 7 Average
First three bolts were nice climbing -- too bad about the rest.

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous
5.9 Green Mile Sport Very Good
Thoguht this was 5.8 -- so kept describing as a hard 5.8... turns out it is 5.9! Was worried after seeing Phil have difficulty in the upper section -- but went smoothly for me.

 
5.10a Scene of the Crime Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.

 
5.8 Metamorphosis Sport Classic
I'm not+ sure any move on this is 5.8 -- but it is an unrelenting series of 5.7/5.7+ moves for about 25m after the initial slab is finished.

 
5.7 The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1 5.7
Sport 10 Very Good
Lots of fun -- and surprisingly steep in places, for a 5.7, but with huge jugs to make it 5.7.

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney
Main Cliff Center Right (fat man wall)
5.5 Super-Size Me Sport 9m, 5
Putting up an easy climb for Rachel.

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall)
5.8 Gold Digger Sport 8 Very Good
I really enjoyed this one -- varied and interesting climbing.

 
5.9 Rock Du Jours (Rock Du Jours P1)
1 5.9
Sport Good
Upper pitch was closed (raptors). First pitch seems a bit easier than 5.9 -- perhaps 5.7+ or maybe 5.8. Decent, but not great, climbing.

 
Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right
5.7 Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
1 5.7
Sport 9 Very Good
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.

 
5.7 Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1 5.7
Sport 11 Good
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.

 
5.7 Crack Addict Sport 9 Average
The crack was dripping wet -- but the rock had enough texture that it still climbed just fine.

Once done the opening section, rest of the slab is a bit dull.

 
5.8 Charity Case Sport 8 Average
5.6 Model Citizen (Model Citizen P1)
1 5.6
Sport 9 Good
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.

 
Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.7 Glory Jean's Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
Always fun.

 
5.7 Rise And Shine Sport 15m, 5 Good
5.7 Shealyn's Way Sport 33m, 11 Very Good
I love the variety of climbing on this one.

 
Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.7 5.7 II Wedge Trad Good
Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.

 
Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right
5.9 Toady Dreams Sport Good
Climbed the 5.9 variant -- but with extra traversing and leaning to unclip draws.

 
5.7 Crowd Pleaser Sport 9 Very Good
Lead P1, followed P2.

Fun climbing.

A lovely wiggly quartz vein shows up on P2.

 
5.7 Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1 5.7
Sport 11 Good
First pitch (labelled as crux) is nowhere near the book grade of 5.8. Maybe, barely, 5.7.

 
Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous
5.9 Men in White Suits Sport 5 Very Good
5.8 Metamorphosis Sport Good
Fun climbing, but seemed very soft for 5.8.

 
5.7 The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1 5.7
Sport 10 Good
Physical for a 5.7, but fun.

 
5.8 Toxic Gumbo Sport 10 Very Good
Got a sequence wrong, and couldn't recover.

 
5.10a Arugula, Arugula Sport
Didn't want to burn myself out trying to pull the roof. Not my style at all.

 
Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney
Main Cliff Venus Wall
5.3 The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge Sport 8 Very Good
Still fun, still haven't lead it.

 
Sun 27th Mar 2016 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.5 5.5 II Beginner's Route Trad 340m Classic
Lead all the pitches except 2 & 3.

Was quite wet in places, including the crux moves on pitch 6, making for extra excitement. Still very climbable, though.

Though, the "4th class" on pitch 9 was quite exciting when soaking wet.

 
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney
The Meadows No Money Down Area
5.7 Rose Garden Sport 18m, 6 Good
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall
5.9 Lies And Propaganda Sport 21m, 7 Very Good
Took a few tries to get the low crux. Upper crux, despite wet holds, went ok.

 
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.7 Glory Jean's Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
Always fun. A bit of visible water on the traverse, but no issues with the climbing.

 
5.6 Easily Amused Sport 10m, 3 Average
5.10b Rubicon Sport 15m, 9
Tried on TR, as a linkup from Easily Aroused, rather than Easily Amused. Too hard for me at this time.

 
5.9 Easily Aroused Sport 15m, 5
This makes a nice, more consistent in grade, first pitch for Rubicon than Easily Amused.

Took a couple tries at the crux, but got it.

 
5.7 Rise And Shine Sport 15m, 5 Good
5.9 Quinn/Callaghan Route Sport 33m, 11 Very Good
Another hang-dog try on this. Holds at the top were wet, making the finishing crux harder.

 
5.6 Cafe' au Lait Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
Lots of fun stemming on this one.

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.8 Squeeze My Lemon Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
I really enjoyed this one -- a couple interesting puzzles to solve, and absolutely solid glue-in bolts (unlike some of the spinners on other climbs). Recommended if dry.

 
5.7 Glory Jean's Sport 24m, 8 Good
Always fun.

 
5.6 Cafe' au Lait Sport 24m, 8
Warm up.

There's a very loose, but well-chalked hold on the right wall of the chimney that should be avoided.

 
5.7 Percolator Sport 15m, 5 Good
Warm up.

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney
The Meadows Holderness Buttress
5.8 Curly for President Sport 27m, 9 Good
Easy-going for the first 3 bolts, then gets steeper.

Don't know where I went wrong last time, but went ok this time.

 
Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall
5.8 Bolt Line Sport 24m, 8 Very Good
Key Beta: after clipping the 2nd bolt step down and left to a rail, and then traverse across this until below or just left-of below the 3rd bolt before heading up.

What I did: after clipping 2nd bolt, followed the natural climbing up and slightly right, then easiest moves up and left, ending up with my feet about 1m above bolt 3. Oops. Now somewhat run-out, I continued following the easiest moves up and left, and end up about 1/2 m above 4th bolt. Double-oops. 5.8X time. Went up to bolt 5.

 
Sun 2nd Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.6 Dike Route
1 5.2 lead by David Gibbs
2 5.2 lead by David Gibbs
3 5.6 lead by David Gibbs
4 5.6 lead by David Gibbs
5
6
7
8
Trad Good
Pitches 0-3 went smoothly; pitch 4 took one rest to figure out route. Didn't like the look of the pitch 5 traverse. Again.

Route is dirty and mossy in places -- doesn't seem like it gets climbed much.

 
Sun 2nd Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge
Children's Crusade Wall
5.4 Beginner's Blessing Trad Good
Protects well for a climb at Whitehorse Ledge.

 
Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.5 5.5 II Beginner's Route Trad 340m Classic
Lead all the pitches. Went quite smoothly, some run-outs, as expected, but nothing that really bothered me. Did pitches 8-10 as a scramble/free solo.

 
Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall
5.8 Bolt Line Sport 24m, 8 Classic
wet at the bottom, dampish at the top -- this made the lead, and especially the unprotected opening traverse, a lot more exciting than they normally would be. I also managed to miss clipping the 4th bolt to give myself some bonus run-out.

Still, an excellent less-than-vertical technical face climb.

 
Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney
The Meadows No Money Down Area
5.7 Truth In Advertising Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
First half was wet, 2nd half damp, making this a far more interesting and challenging climb than normal. Still, very good climbing and a good lead. It is definitely a good idea to have a long draw to clip the pin hidden in the horizontal between the 3rd & 4th bolt. (No, the climb isn't as run-out as it looks from below, because of the fixed pin.)

 
Sun 19th May 2013 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.8 Chloe's Breakfast Special Sport 33m, 11 Very Good
And, on the third try, I got the red point. As usual, had to pick my way past wet rock at the bottom -- but the sustained upper section went quite well, this time. The rock is quite sharp, though, on this one. (Though, that will probably mellow with time and more climbers.)

 
Sun 19th May 2013 - Whitehorse Ledge
The Slabs
5.5 5.5 II Beginner's Route Trad 340m Very Good
Did the first 4 pitches before lowering off. Pitch 2 has a couple bolts, which greatly reduces the commitment level on this route from how it was, I think, originally ascended.

 
Sat 18th May 2013 - Rumney
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous
5.8 Anchovie Caper Sport 6 Average
Start is interesting and challenging for the grade, rest goes more easily -- though footwork takes care, as the rock is quite smooth, unlike most of the usual Rumney schist.

 
5.9 Bonnie and Clyde ((unknown 1)) Sport 15m, 4 Average
Tricky start, took a couple tries to figure out (without weighting the rope, just stepping off again), but once past the start section, the rest was easier.

 
5.7 Half Nelson Sport Average
Nothing special, still a bit dirty.

 
5.9 Men in White Suits Sport 5 Very Good
First bolt looks high, but the going is very easy.

 
5.6 Rainbow Sport 7 Good
A couple burly moves near the start, but the rest is pretty easy, though fun.

 
Sat 18th May 2013 - Rumney
Main Cliff Venus Wall
5.4 Mountaineer's Crack Trad Average
I brought my rack, so wanted to use it for at least one climb. This, clearly, isn't climbed often -- the crack was full of leaves. It can take some surprisingly big pieces, too.

 
5.3 The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge Sport 8 Very Good
A fun, interesting, climb up the ridge. Solid hands, but the foot-work is a bit technical for the grade.

 
5.7 Preppy's Crack Sport 17m, 5 Good
Thin, surprisingly technical for a couple moves.

 
5.8 Constipation Prize Sport 5 Good
Spent a bit of time figuring out the top section up, try, down, rest, repeat. Didn't end up clipping the last bolt, since it seemed to be in the middle of the crux for me, had basically passed it, and just clipped the anchors.

 
5.2 Dirtigo Sport 8
In my hiking boots.

 
5.1 Mowgli Grape Sport 8 Good
Did this as a direct start (maybe 5.6ish?) to make it a bit more fun.

 
5.10a Venus Envy Sport 7 Very Good
The initial bulge, as you click the first bolt, looks a lot steeper when you're below it than when you're looking up from the base of the route, but it goes well on good holds. The crux is, actually, near the top of the upper face. My hardest on-sight at Rumney so far, I didn't expect to get it clean when I set out to lead it.

 
Sun 7th Oct 2012 - Rumney
The Parking Lot Wall
5.8 Chloe's Breakfast Special Sport 33m, 11 Good
Another try at leading it, another fall.

 
5.9 Quinn/Callaghan Route Sport 33m, 11 Very Good
One fall.

This climb is really quite nice, if the start is dry. It is long, and gets continuously harder as the climb continues and gets steeper, until the crux just before the last bolt.

 
5.10d Espresso Sport 18m, 6
Took 3 or 4 falls on this, and had to work a couple of the moves a couple times, but really glad to make it up this climb.

 
5.10b Juan Valdez Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
After about 4 tries at the start, I got it, and the rest of the route clean in that go. A pumpy, but very fun route.

(Ward Smith says 5.10b.)

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney
Jimmy Cliff Left
5.4 Lady and the Tramp Sport 70m, 7
Right after simul-climbing "Clippity Do Dah", we decided to simul-climb this one, too. I was follower this time.

 
5.3 Clippity Do Dah Sport 70m, 14
Simul-climbed it. A fast, some-what safer way than free-soloing. And, addictive fun!

 
5.4 Pine tree Crack Trad 60m
Easy fun climb. Good practice for multi-pitch trad, one non-intimidating terrain.

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney
Jimmy Cliff Right
5.8 Drilling for Dollars Sport 18m, 6
Felt hard to me, but not my strength. Also, getting to the first bolt on the wet (rain) slab section was a bit more exciting than normal.

 
5.7 The Nuthatch Sport 27m, 9
Very fun, close-bolted chimney climb. The slab was wet (rain), but still had good traction, most of the chimney was dry.

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney
Darth Vader Lower
5.8 The Sand People Sport 5
End of the day, it was still dry as we hiked down past it, so we decided to climb it. Fun climb.

 
Mon 6th Aug 2012 - Rumney
The 5.8 Crag
5.8 Mo Pump Sensation Sport 15m, 5 Good
Just when you want something a bit more positive, there it is. But, doesn't have the same feel as many of the other climbs at this grade at this crag -- less of that sharp schist solid feet.

 
5.7 The 5.8 Crack By The Road Trad Very Good
Yes, trad climbing at a sport crag -- I brought my rack, and 3 people climbed this route using my rack.

I quite enjoyed it, good placements, and good movement.

 
5.9 Bolt And Run Sport 18m, 6
It took a couple tries to figure the crux, but otherwise went well. I think on a 2nd go I could get it clean.

 
5.8 The Terrace Sport 12m, 4 Average
Thin, tricky, moves on the upper face, but the lower section was dull. Don't come to this crag for this climb, but if you're here with time, sure.

 
5.8 Snake Skin Slab Sport 12m, 4 Good
Some nice moves.

 
5.8 Asbury Park Sport 15m, 5 Good
On TR, decided to go direct up the bolt line. More interesting moves than the left side of the arete, more like 5.8 climbed this way.

 
5.7 Asbury Park Sport 15m, 5 Good
Went left of the arete for the easy jugs.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 126 ascents.

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