Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | ||||||
5.10a |
★ Arugula, Arugula
![]() | |||||
Failed to pull the roof. Again.
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5.8 |
★★ Metamorphosis
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.
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5.8 |
Anchovie Caper
![]() | 6 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.
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5.7 |
Half Nelson
![]() | Don't Bother | ||||
Still very sharp.
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5.6 |
★ Rainbow
![]() | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steep for a 5.6
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Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | ||||||
5.8 Hard |
★ Gold Digger
![]() | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Tipping Point P1
![]()
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Easy Terms
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Not my best try.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | ||||||
5.10b PG13 |
★ Med Dose Madness
![]() | 21m, 7 | ||||
Couldn't pull the steep crimps around bolt 2.
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5.8 |
★★ Bolt Line
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Would be nice to have a bolt to the right for the start.
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5.8/9 Hard |
★★ Hippos on Parade
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
End of the day, and I expected to fall off, but didn't.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | ||||||
5.8 Hard |
★★ Curly for President
![]() | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It was somewhat wet, and I got some air time.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.6 ~5.7 |
★ Easily Amused
![]() | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
5.7 |
★ Glory Jean's
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 19th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Jimmy Cliff Right | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Drilling for Dollars
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Missed finding a good foot at one point, and peeled. Oh well.
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5.7 |
★ The Nuthatch
![]() | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I like chimneys.
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5.8 |
★★ The Junco
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, too bad so many of the holds are telegraphed by chalk.
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5.10a |
★★★ Lonesome Dove
![]() | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I got seduced by good holds out left at the 2nd bolt, and took a solid whipper while trying to find my way back right to clip bolt 3. Decided to try right, on the next attempt... but too far right. 3rd try, got it just right, and finished the rest of the climb clean.
Sometimes feel a bit distant between the bolts -- but the harder moves are always well protected, and you're generally clipping from a rest. |
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Sun 19th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Jimmy Cliff Left | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Things I Never Learned
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Came back and got it clean seconding it -- crux was still a bit tricky, but I found better beta.
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5.9 |
★ Things I Never Learned
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fell twice on the initial bouldery crux, decided to give my belayer a break from catching more of those falls.
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5.6 |
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten
![]() | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 |
★ Piece of Cake
![]() | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 |
Teacher's Pet
![]() | 21m, 7 | Average | |||
First three bolts were nice climbing -- too bad about the rest.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Green Mile
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thoguht this was 5.8 -- so kept describing as a hard 5.8... turns out it is 5.9! Was worried after seeing Phil have difficulty in the upper section -- but went smoothly for me.
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5.10a |
★ Scene of the Crime
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.
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5.8 |
★★ Metamorphosis
![]() | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I'm not+ sure any move on this is 5.8 -- but it is an unrelenting series of 5.7/5.7+ moves for about 25m after the initial slab is finished.
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of fun -- and surprisingly steep in places, for a 5.7, but with huge jugs to make it 5.7.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (fat man wall) | ||||||
5.5 |
★ Super-Size Me
![]() | 9m, 5 | ||||
Putting up an easy climb for Rachel.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Gold Digger
![]() | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this one -- varied and interesting climbing.
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5.9 |
★★ Rock Du Jours (Rock Du Jours P1)
![]()
1
5.9
| ★ Good | ||||
Upper pitch was closed (raptors). First pitch seems a bit easier than 5.9 -- perhaps 5.7+ or maybe 5.8. Decent, but not great, climbing.
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Sat 18th May 2019 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | ||||||
5.7 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | |||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
|
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5.7 |
Crack Addict
![]() | 9 | Average | |||
The crack was dripping wet -- but the rock had enough texture that it still climbed just fine.
Once done the opening section, rest of the slab is a bit dull. |
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5.8 |
★ Charity Case
![]() | 8 | Average | |||
5.6 |
★ Model Citizen (Model Citizen P1)
![]()
1
5.6
| 9 | ★ Good | |||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Glory Jean's
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always fun.
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5.7 |
★ Rise And Shine
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 |
★ Shealyn's Way
![]() | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I love the variety of climbing on this one.
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Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.7 5.7 II |
★ Wedge
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Lead all pitches except 3, 6, 9.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Toady Dreams
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed the 5.9 variant -- but with extra traversing and leaning to unclip draws.
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5.7 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser
![]() | 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lead P1, followed P2.
Fun climbing. A lovely wiggly quartz vein shows up on P2. |
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Good | |||
First pitch (labelled as crux) is nowhere near the book grade of 5.8. Maybe, barely, 5.7.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | ||||||
5.9 |
★ Men in White Suits
![]() | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 |
★★ Metamorphosis
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Fun climbing, but seemed very soft for 5.8.
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
![]()
1
5.7
| 10 | ★ Good | |||
Physical for a 5.7, but fun.
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5.8 |
★★ Toxic Gumbo
![]() | 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got a sequence wrong, and couldn't recover.
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5.10a |
★ Arugula, Arugula
![]() | |||||
Didn't want to burn myself out trying to pull the roof. Not my style at all.
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Venus Wall | ||||||
5.3 |
★★ The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
![]() | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Still fun, still haven't lead it.
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Sun 27th Mar 2016 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.5 5.5 II |
★★ Beginner's Route
![]() | 340m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead all the pitches except 2 & 3.
Was quite wet in places, including the crux moves on pitch 6, making for extra excitement. Still very climbable, though. Though, the "4th class" on pitch 9 was quite exciting when soaking wet. |
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Rose Garden
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Lies And Propaganda
![]() | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a few tries to get the low crux. Upper crux, despite wet holds, went ok.
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Sat 26th Mar 2016 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Glory Jean's
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Always fun. A bit of visible water on the traverse, but no issues with the climbing.
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5.6 |
★ Easily Amused
![]() | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
5.10b |
Rubicon
![]() | 15m, 9 | ||||
Tried on TR, as a linkup from Easily Aroused, rather than Easily Amused. Too hard for me at this time.
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5.9 |
★ Easily Aroused
![]() | 15m, 5 | ||||
This makes a nice, more consistent in grade, first pitch for Rubicon than Easily Amused.
Took a couple tries at the crux, but got it. |
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5.7 |
★ Rise And Shine
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 |
★★ Quinn/Callaghan Route
![]() | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another hang-dog try on this. Holds at the top were wet, making the finishing crux harder.
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5.6 |
★ Cafe' au Lait
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of fun stemming on this one.
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Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Squeeze My Lemon
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this one -- a couple interesting puzzles to solve, and absolutely solid glue-in bolts (unlike some of the spinners on other climbs). Recommended if dry.
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5.7 |
★ Glory Jean's
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Always fun.
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5.6 |
★ Cafe' au Lait
![]() | 24m, 8 | ||||
Warm up.
There's a very loose, but well-chalked hold on the right wall of the chimney that should be avoided. |
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5.7 |
★ Percolator
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Curly for President
![]() | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Easy-going for the first 3 bolts, then gets steeper.
Don't know where I went wrong last time, but went ok this time. |
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Mon 3rd Aug 2015 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Bolt Line
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Key Beta: after clipping the 2nd bolt step down and left to a rail, and then traverse across this until below or just left-of below the 3rd bolt before heading up.
What I did: after clipping 2nd bolt, followed the natural climbing up and slightly right, then easiest moves up and left, ending up with my feet about 1m above bolt 3. Oops. Now somewhat run-out, I continued following the easiest moves up and left, and end up about 1/2 m above 4th bolt. Double-oops. 5.8X time. Went up to bolt 5. |
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Sun 2nd Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.6 |
★ Dike Route
![]()
5
6
7
8
| ★ Good | ||||
Pitches 0-3 went smoothly; pitch 4 took one rest to figure out route. Didn't like the look of the pitch 5 traverse. Again.
Route is dirty and mossy in places -- doesn't seem like it gets climbed much. |
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Sun 2nd Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
Children's Crusade Wall | ||||||
5.4 |
★ Beginner's Blessing
![]() | ★ Good | ||||
Protects well for a climb at Whitehorse Ledge.
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.5 5.5 II |
★★ Beginner's Route
![]() | 340m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lead all the pitches. Went quite smoothly, some run-outs, as expected, but nothing that really bothered me. Did pitches 8-10 as a scramble/free solo.
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Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Bolt Line
![]() | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
wet at the bottom, dampish at the top -- this made the lead, and especially the unprotected opening traverse, a lot more exciting than they normally would be. I also managed to miss clipping the 4th bolt to give myself some bonus run-out.
Still, an excellent less-than-vertical technical face climb. |
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Mon 20th May 2013 - Rumney | ||||||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | ||||||
5.7 |
★ Truth In Advertising
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First half was wet, 2nd half damp, making this a far more interesting and challenging climb than normal. Still, very good climbing and a good lead. It is definitely a good idea to have a long draw to clip the pin hidden in the horizontal between the 3rd & 4th bolt. (No, the climb isn't as run-out as it looks from below, because of the fixed pin.)
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Sun 19th May 2013 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special
![]() | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
And, on the third try, I got the red point. As usual, had to pick my way past wet rock at the bottom -- but the sustained upper section went quite well, this time. The rock is quite sharp, though, on this one. (Though, that will probably mellow with time and more climbers.)
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Sun 19th May 2013 - Whitehorse Ledge | ||||||
The Slabs | ||||||
5.5 5.5 II |
★★ Beginner's Route
![]() | 340m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the first 4 pitches before lowering off. Pitch 2 has a couple bolts, which greatly reduces the commitment level on this route from how it was, I think, originally ascended.
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Sat 18th May 2013 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | ||||||
5.8 |
Anchovie Caper
![]() | 6 | Average | |||
Start is interesting and challenging for the grade, rest goes more easily -- though footwork takes care, as the rock is quite smooth, unlike most of the usual Rumney schist.
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5.9 |
Bonnie and Clyde ((unknown 1))
![]() | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Tricky start, took a couple tries to figure out (without weighting the rope, just stepping off again), but once past the start section, the rest was easier.
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5.7 |
Half Nelson
![]() | Average | ||||
Nothing special, still a bit dirty.
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5.9 |
★ Men in White Suits
![]() | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First bolt looks high, but the going is very easy.
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5.6 |
★ Rainbow
![]() | 7 | ★ Good | |||
A couple burly moves near the start, but the rest is pretty easy, though fun.
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Sat 18th May 2013 - Rumney | ||||||
Main Cliff Venus Wall | ||||||
5.4 |
Mountaineer's Crack
![]() | Average | ||||
I brought my rack, so wanted to use it for at least one climb. This, clearly, isn't climbed often -- the crack was full of leaves. It can take some surprisingly big pieces, too.
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5.3 |
★★ The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge
![]() | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun, interesting, climb up the ridge. Solid hands, but the foot-work is a bit technical for the grade.
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5.7 |
★ Preppy's Crack
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thin, surprisingly technical for a couple moves.
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5.8 |
★ Constipation Prize
![]() | 5 | ★ Good | |||
Spent a bit of time figuring out the top section up, try, down, rest, repeat. Didn't end up clipping the last bolt, since it seemed to be in the middle of the crux for me, had basically passed it, and just clipped the anchors.
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5.2 |
★ Dirtigo
![]() | 8 | ||||
In my hiking boots.
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5.1 |
Mowgli Grape
![]() | 8 | ★ Good | |||
Did this as a direct start (maybe 5.6ish?) to make it a bit more fun.
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5.10a |
★ Venus Envy
![]() | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The initial bulge, as you click the first bolt, looks a lot steeper when you're below it than when you're looking up from the base of the route, but it goes well on good holds. The crux is, actually, near the top of the upper face. My hardest on-sight at Rumney so far, I didn't expect to get it clean when I set out to lead it.
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Sun 7th Oct 2012 - Rumney | ||||||
The Parking Lot Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special
![]() | 33m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Another try at leading it, another fall.
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5.9 |
★★ Quinn/Callaghan Route
![]() | 33m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall.
This climb is really quite nice, if the start is dry. It is long, and gets continuously harder as the climb continues and gets steeper, until the crux just before the last bolt. |
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5.10d |
★★ Espresso
![]() | 18m, 6 | ||||
Took 3 or 4 falls on this, and had to work a couple of the moves a couple times, but really glad to make it up this climb.
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5.10b |
★ Juan Valdez
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After about 4 tries at the start, I got it, and the rest of the route clean in that go. A pumpy, but very fun route.
(Ward Smith says 5.10b.) |
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney | ||||||
Jimmy Cliff Left | ||||||
5.4 |
★ Lady and the Tramp
![]() | 70m, 7 | ||||
Right after simul-climbing "Clippity Do Dah", we decided to simul-climb this one, too. I was follower this time.
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5.3 |
★★ Clippity Do Dah
![]() | 70m, 14 | ||||
Simul-climbed it. A fast, some-what safer way than free-soloing. And, addictive fun!
|
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5.4 |
★ Pine tree Crack
![]() | 60m | ||||
Easy fun climb. Good practice for multi-pitch trad, one non-intimidating terrain.
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney | ||||||
Jimmy Cliff Right | ||||||
5.8 |
★ Drilling for Dollars
![]() | 18m, 6 | ||||
Felt hard to me, but not my strength. Also, getting to the first bolt on the wet (rain) slab section was a bit more exciting than normal.
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5.7 |
★ The Nuthatch
![]() | 27m, 9 | ||||
Very fun, close-bolted chimney climb. The slab was wet (rain), but still had good traction, most of the chimney was dry.
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Rumney | ||||||
Darth Vader Lower | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ The Sand People
![]() | 5 | ||||
End of the day, it was still dry as we hiked down past it, so we decided to climb it. Fun climb.
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Mon 6th Aug 2012 - Rumney | ||||||
The 5.8 Crag | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Mo Pump Sensation
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Just when you want something a bit more positive, there it is. But, doesn't have the same feel as many of the other climbs at this grade at this crag -- less of that sharp schist solid feet.
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5.7 |
★ The 5.8 Crack By The Road
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Yes, trad climbing at a sport crag -- I brought my rack, and 3 people climbed this route using my rack.
I quite enjoyed it, good placements, and good movement. |
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5.9 |
★ Bolt And Run
![]() | 18m, 6 | ||||
It took a couple tries to figure the crux, but otherwise went well. I think on a 2nd go I could get it clean.
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5.8 |
The Terrace
![]() | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Thin, tricky, moves on the upper face, but the lower section was dull. Don't come to this crag for this climb, but if you're here with time, sure.
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5.8 |
★ Snake Skin Slab
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves.
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5.8 |
★ Asbury Park
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
On TR, decided to go direct up the bolt line. More interesting moves than the left side of the arete, more like 5.8 climbed this way.
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5.7 |
★ Asbury Park
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Went left of the arete for the easy jugs.
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