Showing all 16 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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20 | ★★ Serendipitous Pleasures - with Rene Provis | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jan 2021 | |||
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20 21 | ★★ Square Faith, Round Hole | 8m | Wahroonga | ★ Good | Sun 16th May 2021 | |||
Would be a bad lead with poor pro. Very engaging topout.
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20 | ★ Sans Mains | 5m | Middle Cove | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jan 2018 | |||
Tore off a lump of rock and snapped a sapling on the way down, dang!
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Haily, Peter Melouney | 28m | Evans Crown | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jan 2024 | |||
Surprised myself to be able to follow Mr M's excellent onsight.
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20 | ★ Warm It Up direct finish - with Benjamin Firth | 9m, 1 | Earlwood | ★ Good | Fri 13th Jan 2017 | |||
Bellowed like a bull-walrus, but just managed the final haul-out on the slopey sidepull to avoid the public ignominity of beaching like one.
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20 | CFAFG | 10m | Wahroonga Rocks | Average | Sun 6th Jun 2021 | |||
Could be poor cams above 4m but certainly wouldn't be leading this. Desperate monkey exit thru roof slot.
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20 | ★ Moss Monster - with Nathan Mas-Stephens | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | |||
Perhaps it was seeing Nathan nearly onsight his hardest trad to date in new boots and Keith's crack gloves. Perhaps it was the irritation of a small dog, yapping as if it owned the cliff. Perhaps it was because this sunny rock and wide view was far preferable to the mingy laptop screen.
Or perhaps, in some strange synergy between human and swine, this was the very moment at which Dave's Wild Boar, Chantarelle and Creme de Mur stew, eaten yesterday at 3pm, reached the zenith of it's digestive efficacy, and in a burst of pure porcine power and brutal boar's roars drove me upward to success.
Maybe this has a relatively easy method, however hard to divine from the midst of perplexing muscular contortions. Suffice to say, it requires a few large cams, and a few moves both strong and strange. As for the grade, a stiff old 19 or a fair 20, but 23 it is not. Flew off on the first attempt then clean after that. |
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20 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | Evans Crown | ★ Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
Once again, evidence of sneaking in from one side .. and once there couldn't see a 21 move, but that was on the second attempt on the clothesline from above so had to be devalued. After that, 17-18 like the neighbours but by that time Dick Whittington - and his cat - had definitely turned again, to the Cheapside of course, bypassing the 128 seat Longhouse in which I found myself metaphorically and inevitably incarcerated.
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20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | Evans Crown | Average | Sun 11th Feb 2024 | |||
Could not crack the start so came in from HdL and took a couple of rests at thr crux.
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20 | ★ Ms Meggsy | 10m | Terrey Hills | ★ Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Shameful dogging on the ratchet, but the onsight was improbable. Hard bit's about 1.5m of fingerlocking before you can sink a jam. Better get that sorted before Frog!
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20 | Up and Coming | 20m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 30th Oct 2021 | |||
This climb and its neighbour are of a past time: relatively easy climbing either side of a bouldery crux with fixed protection. These days one wouldn't bother, both because of the small number of hard moves, and long unprotected leadout either side. To be as precise as my laser could be, 6.7m to the ground with one possible average cam between, then about 12m up an easy arete to the GU topout.
Sorry not to onsight as I think I did 41 years ago, but eventually got the move after several rests. Technically 20 I'd say. |
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20 | ★★ Cosmed | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||
Perfect clean 30-35mm crack too small for hands and too big for finger locks with clean edges aplenty. Way out of my current leagues so dogged it via edges with occasional jam as the new breed will no doubt do.
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20 | CP | 25m | Evans Crown | Average | Wed 26th Jan 2022 | |||
Took the "easy" left sided option through the bush up the angled cheese grater, busted a crucial outside foothold and got grated. Got up there again into the flared V chimney and definitely maxxed out the old ticker, very barely stayed stuck in, but finally thrutched into relief. Then up easier crack and final slab to avoid last bottomless boulder. Felt like 23 but probably only an old-school 17 chimney .. I mean, they didn't come much harder than that did they? Plenty of pro, if you want that kind of thang. Or try the right variant for a real granite experience.
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20 | ★ Pimple | 10m, 1 | Berowra | Sun 31st Jul 2016 | ||||
Retreated before roping up after seeing two halves of a shed snake skin: half in the crack and half on the ground below. Has Mr Brown Snake moved house from Cenotaph Corner, or did a helpful hand-jamb help him out of his old skin?
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20 | ★ glitter - with Sandra | 11m | Bangor West | ★ Good | Sat 11th Dec 2021 | |||
Went for the ground up onsight diretissima FA but lost it's shine when I realised it had been done.
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20 | ★ Python Direct - with Nathan Mas-Stephens | 10m, 1 | Bangor West | Average | Mon 29th Mar 2021 | |||
Bouldered up to the carrot, side-clipped the adjacent lower U bolt for safety and failed several times to get much higher. Dirty with not much to get a hold of past that.
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Showing all 16 ascents.
Previously rapped it and removed some dirt and loose bits of rock (as did Rene with his helmeted head, alas) but had no idea what to do or how it would go til I got up there. A few porcine grunts and near-horizontal thrashings later was on The Ledge, from which exited stage right, as could not conceptualise the crack alternative, which was ably achieved by The Second. What a little ripper!