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Ascents by Christoph Rauch having Distinct route

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Showing all 4 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
8- Smoothoperator - with asn Mixed trad 27m, 5 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Fri 12th Aug 2022
Quite solid for 8-, but I'm not talking about the rock quality. Splintery after the first bolt (of the route proper), but rapidly improving. The bolt spacing is perfect, but airy. Well, as long as there are bolts. The last third or so, when climbed directly up, was kept unbolted. Most people probably bail out to the right into "Direkte Nebelsteiner", but the direct line is really worthwhile, with lots of jugs and a few decent placements (tricams might be great).

 
8- 7+/8- Luftikus - with Raimund Mixed trad 20m, 7 Westpfalz Very Good Thu 8th Jun 2023
Tough one! I didn't climb the actual start, but started right into the second half from the last bolt of "Direkter Plattenweg". Powerful overhang which I attacked a little to the right of the ring to do a big rockover on the left foot above the bolt. Then a few meters of nothingness in a terribly shallow dihedral (if you can even call it that). Sketchy moves first lead a little to the left (to gain a mediocre crimp), then again to the right. Foot even popped off at one point and I have no Idea how I stuck to the wall.

 
8- Kleines Intermezzo - with KP Mixed trad 20m, 4 Frankenjura Nord Very Good Wed 18th Nov 2020
Great wall climbing along obvious crack lines with a technical crux on small holds in the upper headwall. The boltless crack in the middle can be easily protected with friends (at least a good yellow and pink Dragon cam; if you feel insecure, add a red and green one, too) and a bomber nut (red DMM offset).

 
IXa VIIIc Ocelový vibrátor - with David X Mixed trad 20m, 5 Labské údolí Good Sat 23rd Mar 2019
Crux with extremely greasy crimps before the first ring with a very unpleasant drop zone. Used a stick to pre-clip the ring and then pulled myself over the crux to good ironstone holds after trying to do the moves a few times. From there, it is wonderful homogenous and well-protected (with two additional slings) climbing in beautiful structures, which is suddenly interrupted by a slab with absolutely no holds. I somehow managed to stand up on the slab and grab the massive holds above, but didn't finish the route, because I couldn't see the next ring and also some of the sloper rails above were wet. Worth it just for the middle part.

 

Showing all 4 ascents.