Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Stubborn Streak - with Janet | 25m | ||||
5.9 | ★ lliad - with Janet | 25m | ||||
Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Dawg - with Janet | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Blue Bull - with Janet | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 29th Sep 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little LuLu - with Barb | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ 3M - with Barb | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a 5.9 | Moss Pit - with Barb | 12m | Crap | |||
Not that mossy since someone cleaned it, but still as good as the name sounds. Shitty cruxy move off the ground and then shitty climbing above that.
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5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo - with Barb | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Flat Wire - with Jed | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two falls around final roof. Get right hand in jug below roof, then big move to face hold on left above roof. Bring right into jam in roof, then left to sharp fingerlock and move feet up.
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5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner - with Jed | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second shot of the day.
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5.12a | ★★★ Orrgazmo - with Jed | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed it really well, but would have been harder without Jed calling out every hold.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Sex Machine - with Jed | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup for the day.
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sidewinder - with Jed | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Cytotoxic - with Jed | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky after a couple of days on steep, juggy stuff
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Sat 8th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner - with Jed | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off on last bolt. Wasted too much energy trying to go straight up instead of left to the jug a bit lower.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Sex Machine - with Jed | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep climbing with mostly massive jugs. Good fun!
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5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') - with Jed | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves past the roof.
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Winston's Choice - with Steve | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start, with trickier finish than expected.
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5.10a 5.10- | ★★ Primal Dream - with Steve | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Runout in places - could probably place some gear. There is a wasp nest in the overlap just after the second last bolt on p1.
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Maternal Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Pink Cosmo Girls - with Jed | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely not 11a like the guide says, but a little harder than 10b I think.
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me - with topher | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too pumpy to be a good warmup!
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5.11c | ★★ Banana Bypass | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning the draws after Simon led it. Pumpy number!
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Serenity Now - with Steve and Alice | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sandbagged onto this by Steve. Has some hard moves, but main difficulty was finding all the hidden holds!
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5.11a | ★★★ Good Times - with Steve and Alice | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really fun finish.
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.11a | ★★ Local Boys Do Good - with Guillaume | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch only. Was just starting to get a bit of sun, so had to get up it quick!
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Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ On Yer Bike - with Jed Parkes | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Missed a couple of huge jugs the first time and got pumped. Fun, steep climbing.
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Insite Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rifle - with Barb | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Some hardish moves for a 10a. Reasonably well bolted, but a fall on most of the route would be pretty shitty.
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Preview | ||||||
5.9 | ★ I Might Possibly Consider That | 21m, 7 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★ I'm Not Against It | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Blue du Jour | 23m, 9 | Average | |||
Very dodgy rock in middle section needs cleaning off when no-one's below.
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Wed 29th Jul 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Serene - with Simon Goss | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall on the last move. That's what I get for reaching too high too early...Probably a bit soft for 12a?
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5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle - with Simon Goss | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Felt easier than the other times I've been on it.
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5.11c 5.11b | ★ Get Bent! - with Simon Goss | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo - with Simon Goss | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Trekking to India - with Simon Goss | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Still feels harder than most of the 11c's around here!
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Thu 23rd Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Xenolith Dance - with Deano and Alice | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The features make for great fun, especially the slabby undercling traverse. Just a pity the name is misleading. There is a large phenocryst, but no xenolith!
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Thu 16th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Upper Crag X | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Friction Addiction - with Deano | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Good slabbing, just short.
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5.10c | ★ Bucky ki-yea - with Deano | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
Also placed a 0.4BD before the first bolt halfway up. Really dirty initial slab. Had to come in from the right a bit below the second bolt. Broke a footer on the first shot.
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Tue 14th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Up Among The Firs | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Poster Boy - with Deano and Alice | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting dark, so just seconded Deano. Really good. Slabbing the start and the an awesome, delicate and technical arete to finish. Use a 2BD at the base of the arete.
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Sun 12th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Left | ||||||
5.12c 5.12a | ★★ From Beneath You It Devours | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome kneebar halfway up the steep bit. Could be 12c if you had no idea how to jam, but the line is a crack. Probably really a soft 12a.
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Fri 10th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | ||||||
5.10c | ★ The Voodoo That You Do | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Post-lunch warmup
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5.11a | ★ Junk Yard Patio | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Short, but quite fun mid-section
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5.11d | ★★★ Rug Munchers | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got too pumped near the top and went the wrong way. Hard to do when there's so much chalk on the thing!
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Fri 10th Jul 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area The Crest | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Weak In July (Week In July) | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Fun start and finish with super easy middle
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5.10c | ★★ Serenity Now | 16m, 8 | Average | |||
Cruxy start with a 5.4 second half...
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5.11a | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fun
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5.10c | ★★ Giddy-up | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed it completely differently to Deano
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Wed 8th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ More Than Just a Pretty Face | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, flowing moves
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5.10d 5.11b | ★ Fearless Fraser (Unknown) | 25m, 8 | Average | |||
Bit of a one-move wonder, but nice rock.
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5.10d | ★★★ The Burglar | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great!
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Sat 4th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds The Valley of Shaddai | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Cliptomaniac | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! The only thing detracting from it is the ledge just after the first crux. Took about 10 tries to get the first crux near the 5th bolt, then another cruxy move near the last bolt.
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Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Murrin Surrounds The Valley of Shaddai | ||||||
5.10c | Necessary Dorsal Muscles | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Steep. Reach to the left of the arete to get past the first bolt at 10c
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5.10c | ★★ Gym Dandy | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the direct start at 11a, although the top was definitely the hardest.
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Wed 24th Jun 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Hindu Two Routes | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Get Bent! | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Not the smartest climb to warm up on after a few weeks off!
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5.11c | ★★ Special K | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some really nice moves. Not very easy to onsight, but holds magically appear just where you need them.
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Tue 19th May 2015 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The outpost | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Centurion - with Aeron | 170m, 51 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good but not great. Some really enjoyable climbing interspersed with some not-so-good climbing. Pitch 3 climbs the best I think. Pitch 4 is given as the crux pitch, but hardest move is near the start of pitch 5, and pitch 6 is the most sustained. A nice day out, and well worth the walk.
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May 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Unnamed1 | 13m, 5 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Unnamed 3 | 15m, 4 | ||||
5.7 | ★ A Bunch of BS | 15m, 6 | ||||
Tue 21st Apr 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ Fine Lime | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Much different to other things I've done at Skaha. Slopey! Felt hard for the grade...
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5.9 | Danceannette | 9m, 4 | Crap | |||
5.10c | ★ Banana Caliente | 9m, 4 | Average | |||
A bit glassy
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5.11a | ★★ Nemesis | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, with a couple of really nice moves near the top
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5.10d | ★ Tequila Sunset | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Mon 20th Apr 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Grassy Glades | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brilliant Pebbles (Brilliant Peebles) | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice moves throughout.
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5.10b | ★ Full Tilt Boogie | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better than expected. Full value with nice moves too.
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5.11a 5.11b | ★ Thumbstruck | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Very cruxy start. New guide gives it 11b, which I think feels more honest.
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5.8 | ★ White Knuckle Express | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Professional Belay Slaves | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
5.6 | ★ Ivy League | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 19th Apr 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Black Magic - with topher | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Lunatic Fringe - with Janet | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Colours of the Wind | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some fun moves on little crimpers, but pretty easy overall.
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5.10a | ★★ Vertical Bliss | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and relaxing arete climbing
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5.8 | ★ Third Sunday of the Month | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Can go straight or around to the right at the top
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5.10a | ★★ Mental Gymnastics - with Janet | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice for the first climb out side in ages. Getting used to using little footers again!
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Thu 5th Mar 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Quickdraw - with Steve | 55m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Deserves a couple of stars, even if it does naturally go onto the trad line next to it near the top. Excellent first pitch with a fun start and slabby arete, and then a balancy start to the second pitch.
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Thu 20th Nov 2014 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ The Rookie | 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
Only did it so I didn't have to walk to the top. The middle section isn't unenjoyable for an easy slab.
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5.11c 5.11b | ★★ Constant Gardener | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great lower half, nice and balancy on not-so-great holds. Top half is much easier but still lots of fun.
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5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Speed Dial #8 | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Was dry, so I thought I'd jump on it. Cruxy.
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5.11b | ★★ Wingman | 22m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really fun. Almost peeled off with frozen fingers, but managed to hold on.
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5.12a | ★★ Back Door Party | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Really burly crux, followed by a tricky mantle that I misread...Really happy I got through the crux without falling while trying to belay myself! Should go pretty easily on lead.
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Fri 14th Nov 2014 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Shake your lettuce | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The most enjoyable climb here so far. Flows really nice, and is still doable when your hands are getting more and more frozen
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5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ 3M | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 2nd Oct 2014 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Your Other Left (Unnamed 2) - with Tim | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
A bit easy for 5.9 I think
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5.10a 5.9 | ★ Lefty - with Tim | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly enjoyable, and dry after avoiding the start.
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5.9 | ★ Little LuLu - with Tim | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Guide gives it 10a, but no harder than 5.9
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5.10a | ★ 3M - with Tim | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice, but with one loose rock about 5m up.
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5.11a | ★★ Lubo - with Tim | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun rising traverse, then great face moves to get to the 4th bolt. Found the last move the hardest to commit to with a mossy footer.
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5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo - with Tim | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice warmup
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Trekking to India - with Tim | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, and didn't get the onsight very easily, partly because I was trying to avoid using the same holds as Dynamic Duo. Unfortunate they're so close together, but they're both fun still.
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Sun 4th May 2014 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Dungeon | ||||||
26 | Black Velvet | 10m | ||||
Figured out the crux move, difficult and painful on the fingers but very doable. Couldn't do the second bulge with dripping, slimy holds. Good rest between bulges, so should be able to get quickly once it's dry.
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17 | ★ Jugs 'R' Us | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 4th May 2014 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Chessboard | ||||||
18 | ★ Nothing Left to Give | 15m | ||||
16 | ★ Revelation Six Sixteen | 15m, 5 | ||||
14 | ★ Like Nectar for Butterflies | 12m, 5 | ||||
15 | ★ The Butterfly Climb | 8m |