Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6b 7c | ★★ Bottom Feeder (Bottom Feeder (to first anchor)) | 23m, 8 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
gates at anchor are corroded shut, so I didn't think holding onto the anchor was a huge sin considering the circumstances
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23 25 | ★★★ Neon God | 50m | Mount Wellington | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | |||
5.12c 5.12a | ★★ From Beneath You It Devours | 24m | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jul 2015 | |||
Awesome kneebar halfway up the steep bit. Could be 12c if you had no idea how to jam, but the line is a crack. Probably really a soft 12a.
|
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24 |
★★ No Contest
- with
Jed
1
21
lead by
topher
2
24
lead by
Jed
3
22
lead by
topher
4
18
lead by
Jed
| 150m, 47 | Hidden Face | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | |||
Almost makes 'classic', but maybe needs a bit more traffic first. Both of us pulled off multiple rocks, and there's a lot of sandy shit on the first pitch especially. Second pitch is great.
|
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5.11d | ★★ Serenity Now - with Steve and Alice | 22m, 10 | Squamish | ★ Good | Sat 1st Aug 2015 | |||
Sandbagged onto this by Steve. Has some hard moves, but main difficulty was finding all the hidden holds!
|
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5b+ 7a | Delirium Tres Mince (Delirium Tres Mince (last pitch)) | 25m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 17th Apr 2007 | ||||
22 23 | ★★ Resurrection Sunday (Unknown) | 25m, 9 | Hillwood (private land) | Sat 1st Jan 2011 | ||||
23 | ★ Give Me Convenience or Give me Death (Give Me Convenience of Give me Death) | 20m, 6 | The Monkeys | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | |||
23 | ★★ Back in the game - with Mike Hitchcock | 30m, 11 | Mt Blackwood Summit | ★ Good | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | |||
Good fun, but not as good as any of the cracks.
|
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23 | ★★ This is Spinal Tap - with Deano | 14m | North Sister | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Jul 2020 | |||
Start wasn't as 'perplexing' as the guide suggests, but continuous climbing above on rock similar to Left Out on the pipes. Try to stay right (out of the moss) at the top.
|
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23 | ★★ Sting Like a Bee Direct | 19m, 6 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | |||
steeper than it looks! bouldery start and pumpy finish.
|
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Trekking to India - with Tim | 24m, 9 | Sully's Hangout | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Good fun, and didn't get the onsight very easily, partly because I was trying to avoid using the same holds as Dynamic Duo. Unfortunate they're so close together, but they're both fun still.
|
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5.11c | ★★ Gertrude - with barb | 12m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Sep 2018 | |||
Good fun. Steep jugs with a single V3 move at the 3rd bolt. Would deserve a star or two if it was a bit longer.
|
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5.11c | ★★ Burp the Worm - with Deano | 20m, 7 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||
Made me sweat, especially getting the final jug. Some pretty burly parts, but unfortunately (fortunate for me) it's not very sustained.
|
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5.11c | ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride - with Deano | 110m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 11th Aug 2016 | |||
Amazing. Hard to get off the ground, and a long way to the first clip, but rest of p1 fairly easy, with a harder step left at about 2/3 height. Second pitch gets 11a in the guide, but is definitely the hardest/most sustained. Awesome slabbing. p3 has a couple of hardish moves, but generally felt easier than p2. p4 fairly straight-forwards, with one slightly harder move going past the 4th(?) bolt.
|
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus (Stalagasaurus (post-breakage)) | 13m, 7 | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
Yes, I knew the thing had broke, but I'd heard gradings for the new climb to be anywhere between 6b and 7a+, so I was thinking something along the lines of 6b+. 7a is more like it.
|
||||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King | 12m, 4 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
wow. I manage to scramble up the top totally buggered, then this thai kid who's only been climbing for 8 months rocks up and just cruises up it. And to add insult to injury, even found a no hands rest halfway up! Seriously though, a great climb on rock steeper than you believe until you're getting lowered
|
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6c+ | ★★ Insomnio de equipmento | 30m | El Chorro | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Feb 2011 | |||
Sweet! If you can jam just a little bit, this is much easier!
|
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5.10d 5.11b | ★ Fearless Fraser (Unknown) | 25m, 8 | Squamish | Average | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||
Bit of a one-move wonder, but nice rock.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ Driller Direct - with Alice | 20m, 9 | Waterworks Quarry | Average | Wed 15th Jul 2020 | |||
The climbing itself is fun, but the bolting is stupid. Should share first 2-3 bolts with Tour, then move across to Serial Driller.
The glued hold is also a big shame, makes me want to pull it off...
|
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22 | ★ The Trap | 10m, 4 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 31st Dec 2003 | |||
5.11a 5.11b | ★ Thumbstruck | 25m, 10 | Skaha | ★ Good | Mon 20th Apr 2015 | |||
Very cruxy start. New guide gives it 11b, which I think feels more honest.
|
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5.11b | ★★ Winston's Choice - with Steve | 22m, 10 | Skaha | ★ Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
Fun start, with trickier finish than expected.
|
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5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Addicted to War (Unknown 2) | 15m | Horne Lake | ★ Good | Mon 8th Aug 2016 | |||
5.10d 5.11b | ★★ Tilted Glass - with Ian Saunders | 16m, 4 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Thin and tenuous, but not too painful on the tips.
|
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22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | Sand River | ★ Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
|
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22 | ★ Golden Thread - with Janet | 16m, 7 | Sand River | ★ Good | Sat 22nd May 2021 | |||
Getting pumped at top, but crux was a good finger lock.
|
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22 | ★★ Blue Suede Clues - with Deano | 18m, 6 | Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Dec 2023 | |||
Some really fun moves and a couple of ways to do the crux. Possibly on soft side of 22?
|
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me - with topher | 30m, 11 | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2015 | |||
A bit too pumpy to be a good warmup!
|
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5.11b | ★★ Varicose Veins - with Janet | 25m, 11 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Jul 2018 | |||
Unbelievably didn't screw it up, despite my best efforts. Crux is around bolts 3-4, with top section pretty simple.
|
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22 | ★★ Cryptic Clue - with Deano | 40m | Cluan Tier and Whiskey Jim Hill | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | |||
Mostly really good climbing but with a lot of rests and some dodgy rock.
|
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22 | ★★ The Etiquette of Violence - with Max | 20m | The Monkeys | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Jan 2024 | |||
Not very sustained, with awesome rests at bolts, but plenty of great moves, and would be easy to mess up the sequence in the top crux.
|
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22 | ★★ No Antidote - with deano | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||
Much pumpier than the Chessboard. Glad to have spaced good rests, but still not hanging on by much at the anchors.
|
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22 | ★ Vagabond | 25m | Kempton Quoin | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st May 2010 | |||
awesome! quite different for dolerite
|
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22 | ★★ The Tyrants Grasp | 18m, 7 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | |||
really fun start, pumpy finish.
|
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22 | ★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight | 25m, 12 | Hillwood (private land) | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Dec 2004 | |||
i think i have a new favourite climb...
|
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6c | ★★ L'Arabe Souriant | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sun 6th May 2007 | |||||
6c | ★ Instinto | 15m | El Chorro | Don't Bother | Wed 2nd Feb 2011 | |||
Fun first move, but some large, sharp and loose flakes at the top
|
||||||||
6c | ★★★ Dozer Days P1 | 27m, 9 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
used as access to golded ball, but is a good route by itself.
|
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6b+ 6c | ★★★ Orange Chandeliers | 75m, 28 | Ao Nang Tower | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
struggled a bit, went off route up the stalagtite, then missed a bolt. Remember: 10 bolts dammit!
|
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6c | ★★★ Babo Does Thailand | 28m, 11 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
6b+ 6c | ★★★ Orange Chandeliers (On the Rocks) | 75m, 28 | Ao Nang Tower | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
6c | ★★★ Nut Cracker | 25m, 7 | Railay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
I think this is the most enjoyable climb I did in my whole stay, nice and balancy and technical and all that stuff
|
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5.11a | ★ Placebo | 9m | Squamish | Average | Thu 11th Aug 2016 | |||
As the guide says, not the best warm-up. A pretty ugly climb, really. Nowhere near two stars!
|
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5.11a | ★★ My One Muscle | 22m, 7 | Sully's Hangout | ★ Good | Fri 14th Nov 2014 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Nemesis | 9m, 5 | Skaha | ★ Good | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
Good fun, with a couple of really nice moves near the top
|
||||||||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') - with Jed | 15m, 7 | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 8th Aug 2015 | |||
Fun moves past the roof.
|
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5.11a | ★★ Villainous | 15m | Skaha | ★ Good | Sat 30th Apr 2016 | |||
Pumpy access to upper pitch
|
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5.11a | ★★ Secretariat - with Janet and Shauna | 13m, 6 | Banff | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
Thin moves at the top, and spent most of the time trying to find the holds. Just as well it isn't too steep!
|
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5.11a | ★★ Lubo - with Tim | 15m, 6 | Sully's Hangout | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Fun rising traverse, then great face moves to get to the 4th bolt. Found the last move the hardest to commit to with a mossy footer.
|
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5.11a | ★★ Colours of the Wind | 20m | Skaha | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | |||
Some fun moves on little crimpers, but pretty easy overall.
|
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5.11a | ★★ Currently Coagulating | 15m | Cheakamus Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jul 2015 | |||
Pretty fun
|
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5.11a | ★★ Quickdraw - with Steve | 55m, 16 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Mar 2015 | |||
Deserves a couple of stars, even if it does naturally go onto the trad line next to it near the top. Excellent first pitch with a fun start and slabby arete, and then a balancy start to the second pitch.
|
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5.11a | ★★ The Jaxx - with Janet | 12m, 6 | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
Short, but fun and definitely a little less obvious than Mountain Aven
|
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5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant - with Deano | 22m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2016 | |||
Gets you pumped if you're unfit, but otherwise pretty simple climbing.
|
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21 | ★ The Son | 22m, 8 | Freycinet National Park | Sun 1st Jan 2006 | ||||
21 | ★★ Schizophrenic | 70m, 24 | Mount Wellington | Average | Tue 24th Jan 2012 | |||
Has a bunch of nice moves, but has to dodge back and forth between other climbs, sometimes having to do a couple of moves up them to clip the next bolt! Why not take the third pitch straight up from the bolts?? I'd grade the pitches as 21, 20, 22
|
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21 | ★★ Thesaurus - with shirley | 24m, 10 | Mount Wellington | Average | Wed 18th Oct 2023 | |||
Definitely not 2 stars, but there is some nice climbung between the contrived line and climbing up another route (with separate bolts) several times
|
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21 | ★ Wild Eyes, Crazy Heart | 8m | Hillwood (private land) | ★ Good | Sun 16th Jan 2005 | |||
21 | ★ Fluffy Duck | 3 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Thu 13th Feb 2014 | |||
Looks crap, and is a little short, but actually climbs nicely, AND all the holds aren't covered in chalk!
|
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21 | ★★ Headplant | 14m, 4 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sat 8th Feb 2014 | |||
21 | ★★ Feeding The Rat | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sun 9th Feb 2014 | ||||
21 | ★★ Shock Wave | 13m, 5 | The Paradiso | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2004 | |||
steep and pumpy on good holds. Great last move
|
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22 21 | ★ True to Life | 20m | The Monkeys | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2005 | |||
steeper than it looks
|
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18 21 | ★★ Stone Symposium | 27m | Paynes Ford | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Feb 2014 | |||
Not 21 from the ledge. Originally had the same start as 'R for Ranger...'
|
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21 | ★ Pleb's Rusticus - with Mike | 12m, 5 | Sand River | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jul 2022 | |||
21 | ★★ There's a Cat in My Alleyway - with Max | 20m | The Monkeys | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Jan 2024 | |||
Climbs really well, and enough to get a bit of a pump working.
|
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21 | ★★ Attack of the Deranged Mutant Killer Monster | 12m, 5 | Adamsfield | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Jan 2005 | |||
a lot more pumpy than it looked!
|
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21 | ★★ Bilbos Great Adventure | 24m, 8 | Paynes Ford | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2014 | |||
Great varied climbing, best route on the wall.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ A Tout Coeur | 150m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sun 6th May 2007 | ||||
P5 then onto Passion D'amour
|
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6b+ | ★ Baron rojo | 17m | El Chorro | Wed 2nd Feb 2011 | ||||
6b 6b+ | ★ Top Knot | 10m, 4 | Railay | Average | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
not much fun in the wet
|
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6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins | 20m, 8 | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
one of the only crack climbs I heard of here. unfortunately it's more layback than anything else
|
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6b+ | ★★ Little Fish P1 (Pla Lek (Little Fish)) | 15m, 6 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Acid-Mouth Wife | 18m, 7 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
pumped to buggery in the first section, then rewarded with great top half
|
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6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias (White Hot Hernia) | 16m, 7 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
nice climb
|
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6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | Ton Sai | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2004 | |||
i'd give it the full 6b+
|
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6b+ | ★★ Lo Scolaro (La Scolaro) | 20m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th May 2007 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Keshasun (Keeshasun) | 30m | El Chorro | ★★★ Classic | Wed 2nd Feb 2011 | |||
Great. Awesome finish following fun slabby stuff
|
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5.10d | ★ Tequila Sunset | 12m, 5 | Skaha | Average | Tue 21st Apr 2015 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Moons of Pluto | 30m | Smith Rock State Park | ★ Good | Thu 10th Nov 2011 | |||
5.10d | ★ Whatever - with Alice | 40m | Squamish | ★ Good | Mon 15th Oct 2018 | |||
Was meant to do Ladies First, but it was getting dark and completely missed the bolts. Progressively harder right to the top.
|
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5.10d | ★★ The Big Barn Door | 8m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Sep 2011 | |||
Awkward move, rather apt name!
|
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5.10d | ★★ Headless Horseman | 25m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Nov 2011 | |||
Sustained crux section, really good
|
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5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Mountain Even (Mountain Aven) - with Janet | 12m, 6 | Banff | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jul 2019 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ The Burglar | 26m, 8 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Jul 2015 | |||
Great!
|
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5.10d | ★★ Slices of Quince - with Ian Saunders | 22m | Skaha | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||
Really good climbing, going over the classic Skaha polished bulge at the top.
|
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7 | ★★ Felsapfel | Ettringen | Fri 20th Apr 2007 | |||||
20 | ★ Fresh Fire | 18m | Hillwood (private land) | Mon 31st May 2010 | ||||
20 | Access Route | 12m | Freycinet National Park | Sun 1st Jan 2006 | ||||
20 | ★★ Pack Destroyer - with Deano | 10m | Hillwood (private land) | Sat 18th May 2024 | ||||
Good fun. A harder and better(?) version of jugs r us?
|
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20 | ★ Seek First Thy Kingdom | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | Average | 2003 | |||
20 | ★ Solid State | 10m | Proctor's Road Quarry | Average | 2003 | |||
20 | ★ Raquel's Roadhouse | 18m, 4 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Average | Sat 9th Dec 2017 | |||
not very amazing. one cruxy move.
|
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20 | ★ Crash Course in Brain Surgery | 10m | Hillwood (private land) | ★ Good | 2004 | |||
19 20 | ★ Drilling in the Name of | 10m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ★ Good | 2003 | |||
20 | ★ Ancient Astronaught p2 | 10m | Fortescue Bay | ★ Good | Sat 14th May 2005 | |||
a big relief after the first pitch but still not easy when you're buggered
|
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20 | ★ The Fearless Vampire Killers | 18m, 3 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Feb 2014 | |||
20 | ★★ Loose Unit | 15m, 3 | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Thu 13th Feb 2014 | |||
20 | ★ Super Blonde | 12m | Paynes Ford | ★ Good | Wed 12th Feb 2014 |