Ascents by Stefano Carnati having Sport CPR

So immensely happy to climb this line that had always been stuck in my mind since the day I saw it years ago and watched Chris’ video on Progression! Did its right version “llamps i trons” two years ago in 5 tries and spent another couple of days trying the upper part but felt too week. Tried again for three days on a mini trip two weeks ago and came close. Back today and... it happened!!!

King line, 60m, never over! On my 3rd day on it I was able to link all the hardest part from the fourth bolt, but the wet holds at the beginning turned out to be a nightmare and I found myself struggling with the first sequence for days! Think it's far harder than all the 9as I did, but I have less experience than all the others who did this route... #hard

Dream! Masterpiece!

2 tries yesterday evening and 3 more today. Super short and super cool! Loved that pinches! Thanks Gabri for the vision! Everybody knows it’s hard to grade this kind of “routes”. I think the whole could be 8B boulder. Therefore Imho it coulde be 8c+. Climbing a 9a so fast is a goal of mine but will stay as such for now!

2020 first climb. Bye bye Margalef!

Very specific on pockets. Somebody says low-end, to me felt harder than Mr Hyde, maybe the slash goes for both... dunno...

Props to Andrea Gallo for finding this line and Matteo for bolting and climbing it! Very nice route with good and powerful moves starting with a roof and finishing with a very overhanging wall! Took me a while to figure out all the moves. Came back today to finish it and found out a hold I used for resting and clipping broke off. Had to change beta and fortunately it worked! Felt slightly easier than 9a with the new betas. In my opinion could be 8c+9a. #soft

What a route! About 60 moves, very pumping and sustained all the way up. Topped it out ahaha! For the grade felt definitely hard for 8c+, so I agree with 8c+/9a. #hard

In a day, 4 tries!!! Suited me perfectly!10 hard moves with hard clips and dropknees followed by an easier part.

One of my favorites!

8c+/9a. Yass! Very glad it went down!

Nemesis is over!! 3AM alarm clock made its work! Spent several days last year and it drove me crazy. Today sent straight after a warm-up go. Climbing is a bitch!

5 days, 13 tries. The send was very unexpected! Good fight!

8c/+. Very close on my 2nd try and later tried it desperately with hot temps and sore skin. Today felt way better despite it was my 5th day on. Probably only 8c... very cool! #soft

Bouldery, I really like this kind of routes! #soft

Got to do this one, too! Switched into speed mode to climb the last rail. 60m of enjoyable climbing. Easier than nordic flower for me.

Perfection!

Soo tired that I felt pumped ahahha

Half try last year, one day this year! Great route! 8c/+ could be ok in my opinion! #soft

8b/+. There is history behind, thank God!

8c+/9a. Didn’t try before the break, but it’s probably harder now! Thank Gabri for the beta! 2 days, 5 tries!

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Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct, which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped.

One try years ago when climbing 8c was still a dream. 3 tries today. Harder after a good foothold broke in the crux. Short but cool!

Super route, super painful! Fell off 5 times at the very end 2 year ago.

I was told it got broken, so maybe 8a+ now, as it is on the guidebook, don't know...

Closer to 8c now, but must keep its original grade as all the other broken routes of the crag. Life is a bitch.

Flashed the first part, but climbed the second once. Not a really bad route after all. #2go

8c+/9a. Best line of the crag! #hard

This was hard for me, extremely pumping. Good endurance testpiece!Climbed after Odin's eye

First route of the trip #2go

my first! took me 5 days!

see you in two years, my nemesis

Tried quite a lot last year. Sent at 6pm today in the light of the headlamp! Thanks Simo, Luca and Luca, nice teamwork!

Simply great! 3rd try! Second ascent after Stefan! 8b+ is what people think now

8c+/9a. Not my style.

Great one! Long hard sequence with some tricky moves!

3rd go #soft

ULTRA tired. Top out.

Classic

thank you Filu for the beta

A real beauty!! Pumping, did at the end of the day. Graded 8b/+ == 8b+ anywhere else. #2go

good moves but chipped holds, 4 tries! #soft

amazing line and fun to climb!

Cool route. I saw some people doing it years ago, basically onsight.

Tried it 8 years ago

Warm up day 1, beta by Filu!

Great one! Should have flashed it fuck. #2go

Felt hard on the first try, then I somehow found my way on my second go! Good one! #2go