Ascents as Onsight as trad by Bruce Schneider

Climb 11 of 51.

Climb 10 of 51. Average climbing. Found an old HB cam.

Climb 9 of 51. A first ascent. Will investigate the possibility of a second pitch one day if we get time.

Climb 8 of 51. Quite an enjoyable, easy climb. Can recommend.

Climb 4 of 51. Better than it looked. Fun times.

Climb 50 of 50! Woot! Stocked to have finally completed the multi-pitch challenge, with only days to spare. This climb was not even on my list, but with Beerwah closed due to rain, I had to revisit the multi-pitch options. Glad I did because this turned out to be a great little climb, especially the 2nd pitch which was stellar! Many thanks to Rob for getting me over the line. And thanks to everyone else who climbed with me over the last year. Only one problem - what now?

Climb 30 of 50. A good variety of fun climbing for a grade 13. Unfortunately, this is spoiled by the odd logistics of undertaking this climb. A 50m first pitch, with a dubious natural belay (tiny tree plus a couple of less than great placements), followed by a 20m 2nd pitch that ends with a double bolt belay as advertised, however the anchor bolts are just that - bolts only. No hangers, no chain, no way to rap unless you are prepared to leave a couple of your own bolt plates, plus a sling/prusik, and a bail bina/mallion. Even if you did manage to rap, you're 70m from the ground, so you'd need 2 joined 70m ropes, or be prepared to leave trad gear in the rock somewhere halfway down because it's too far to reach the rap anchors of neighbouring climbs (massive pendulum potential). Perplexing. We opted to traverse left from the pitch 2 bolt belay for about 15m, then rapped off a tree in order to gain the anchors on pitch 2 of Proven Guilty / Assumed Innocent. Another option would have been to have kept climbing upwards, eventually gaining the scrub, and then bush-bashing to the right to the hikers route and descend that. Such a shame. This climb would be much better if it had bolted rap anchors for both pitches. We strung both pitches together, but only because I had an 80m rope.

Climb 27 of 50. A really great climb! Felt more like an 18 than a 20. Not sure which was the crux pitch, but Kate and I both felt that pitch 2 was the crux. The only disappointing aspect of this route is that we literally only placed 1 cam (pitch 1 start), and 1 nut (pitch 3). I missed the trad placement on pitch 2, but Kate said there was a nut placement there. It seems silly to cart an entire rack up for 2 or 3 placements. In my personal opinion, if this route had two or 3 more bolts, it would be a really popular fully bolted sport route. Alas, I think people are put off by the "Mixed Trad" status, and the assigned grade of 20, and therefore this route doesn't see the traffic it deserves. I feel it's a grade 18, or 19 at most. Anyway, perhaps the first ascentionists would be amenable to a retro-bolt ;-) Ha ha. Definitely worth doing this climb again.

Climb 23 of 50. If this was a fully bolted sport route I reckon it would be incredibly popular (in winter). Each pitch felt as though it had a grade 18 crux move. A few exciting moments, and overall enjoyable climbing.

Climb 16 of 50. Apart from the tricky start (probably at least an 18), this was a great fun climb, with some exciting runouts on the first pitch. Pitch 2 was nice climbing all the way.

Climb 15 of 50. A tricky start. Otherwise nice climbing, although some marginal placements make for a sometimes daunting experience, especially the pitch 2 run out to the anchors. Had a bit of fun adding a 3rd pitch, though the climbing on P3 is somewhat spoiled by the 10m of bush bashing.

Climb 13 of 50. Reminds me of the type of climbing I was doing 25 years ago. Glad I got to do it finally. We climbed it in 3 pitches, so not actually sure where one pitch ended and another began, so a bit tricky to log all the pitches correctly. Not terribly important though. Fun times!

Climb 6 of 50. Wish I'd had hexes with me.

Good to try at least once. I chose to mostly face climb to the right of the bolts rather than use the flake/crack.

A warm-down climb. Bit of easy fun.

Not sure why this appears on TheCrag separately, but whatever, I'll log it since I did it.

Just did pitch 1

Continued up the twin cracks from the rap ledge and topped out.

This climb might see more traffic if it had a bolted belay station at the top of pitch 1, thus making pitch 2 a true sport route. Anyway, you can put a number 8 nut and a smallish cam in and make a belay from that, but I doubt many sport climbers could be bothered with that. Fair enough. Alternatively, just view this as a 1 pitch climb, but with 15m of easy climbing at the start with 2 or 3 trees to sling as protection before you encounter the first bolt. Take two ropes (60m ropes will suffice, but a 50m rope will come up short if you're doing it as one pitch) to join together for the rap down. I noticed someone had left a bailing mallion on the first hanger of pitch 2. My guess is they only took one rope, probably a 70m, and that's as far down as they managed to rap. Then they must have pulled the rope and rapped from that 1 bolt the rest of the way to the ground - yikes! Surprisingly enjoyable climbing, from an era when "sport" routes were a little more exciting, with bolts only placed on the harder sections, hence the run-outs on the easier sections. That headwall on the upper section looks like it would take a few more routes - it's just a shame about having to access that section via the pitch 1 scramble gully. I was intending to tighten the nuts on the anchor (the right hand nut can be undone by hand!) but unfortunately forgot to take my spanner with me. Next time...

First trad lead in a while.

Great little climb. Interesting drill hole pro. With Mel & Alex.

Good little lead. Lots of face climbing options.

Thanks for putting this up on thecrag Matt. I can finally log the FA I did way back in the day. Ha ha. Cheers!