Ascents in Bluff Major North Face

Spicy runout at the start!

Classic Thursday arvo fun

This was definitely the most difficult gear placing and heady climb I’ve done in a long time. My forearms were fine, but my mind was completely pumped.

So sick! I found the crux really quite hard

Got to the last move on the onsight bumping to the jug at the crux and fumbled my feet and fell 😅 happy with that.

P1, stellar!

perfect moves, will be back to lead asap. Start would be a bit spooky

Sending the trip off with hands down the best pitch of climbing I've ever done. Felt like every edge and crack had been perfectly placed with climbing in mind.

Excellent climbing. Definitely deserves the R rating IMO, if one (pretty average) piece popped you’d be pretty close to the ground if not a soft deck. The smallest of micro cams might have helped protect this section

Spooky, wait how is missing link R and this isn’t hahahah

Pretty spicy with a single rope, ground falls from 5m up are not ideal. Should have read the crag first 😆

Did the direct finish. For the first 2/3rds of the climb I placed only small wires and nothing larger than a 0.3 Camalot. It definitely felt like the R rating was deserved, and there was significant ground fall potential at the beginning of the climb. However, the traverse (which was easy) was actually not as scary as the unprotected, first 3 metres of climbing (which was one of the hardest parts of the climb) where I thought I might pitch off and land on the rocks below. I would recommend considering protecting the very beginning of the climb on abseil and stick clipping the first piece.

How the hell has anyone done this thing no hands. I refuse to believe it.

I think is was blown out of proportion. Deffs a heady lead but there is plenty of gear.

A bit bold (would have wanted some RP's) but beautiful rock and stunning line!

Seconded this 20 years ago, fun to do now with plenty of thought provoking gear placements.

Still think this thing is hard

First half felt like an ornamental solo

Cause why not

Gravelly in places which was a challenge for 3rd day skin, but climbs really well in a stonker of a location. Super-soft touch though - the "26" section has two moves that are hard-ish but come after a good rest anyway.

Very nearly 2nd shot on TR despite much faff'ing about - will come back and redpoint (or even place on lead - don't think that would be any harder tbh) at some point soon I hope.