Routes in The Pharos and Surrounds for selected grade

Start 2m R of 'Sky Scraper' , just R of native pine. Groove, step L, straight over bulge.

Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L.

Start as for Transatlantic Crossing, 8 metres left of Oceanoid.

1. 25m (21) Up corner-line as for Transatlantic Crossing to bulge. Continue straight through bulge (pro is difficult), then up groove to belay.

2. 15m (20) The overhanging rib just right of the right-hand crack (Transatlantic Crossing).

Great route. The original write-up has caused some confusion and given rise to the Halfway Damned variant. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid.

Best done as a single mega-pitch although a semi-hanging belay can be had in Oceanoid. Start 1 metre left of Oceanoid.

Outrageous traverse. Take lots of slings, double ropes if you have them and a solid second. Start as for second pitch of Oceanoid. Once traversing right, keep going directly right, towards white hanging corner. There is a line of chalked holds higher up leading you to try and reverse the crux of Atlantis. Resist the temptation to go there.

The wall between Ra and Horus. Led onsight before the bolt was added to the start of Ra. Nice moves and good protection. Worth doing if you are in the neighborhood.

Excellent steep jamming.

New anchor installed towards the end of pitch 1 (off left of Lamplighter belay ledge, tries but fails to be out of sight of Lamplighter, and may need a leaver 'biner), 24m to ground.

Start from ledge 12m up "Lamplighter", below steep flake on left wall. If you belay the crux from the ground, rope stretch brings a ledgefall more into play, which is manageable if you plug more gear.

1. 23m (21) Up the steep left-leading flake-crack, take right line below the bush and up to the rap anchor. If continuing up pitch 2, continue 5m past the rap anchor via the corner on the R or the blunt arête on the L, to the next bigger ledge.

2. 40m (20) Good wall climbing, up seams in gently overhanging wall. Then easily to top.

Start: Start at a flake 19 metres right of 'Lamplighter'.

1. 20m (18) Fat, steep flake with hard steep crack immediately left of it. step left to join crack at niche then up into 'Lamplighter' below bulge. Over bulge and belay.

2. 15m (22) Follow thin corner-flake above, just left of the start of 'Judgement Day', (this is the left side of the sort of pillar and up into white corner) to belay in 'Lamplighter' level with 'Parallels'.

3. 25m (14) Walk off left is not possible! Continue up Lamplighter or downlead to anchors on Braindrops

The wall 2 metres left of 'French Crack' is very poorly protected.

Wall between 'Rommel' and 'Trespassers Prosecuted'.

Start up Greenwich Reach for 3-4m until it is possible to diagonal across right to break in the roof. Through roof, up to next and through it then diagonal left up to anchor on Greenwich Reach. Gear at 2nd roof a little iffy.

Lovely, technical thin face. Be careful not to fall off clipping the second bolt.

Start: 4 metres left of the 'Vanoise' corner. Smooth orange wall to rap chain. (Worthless variant start goes up lichenous streak on right to join route below 2nd bolt Jamie Holding, Rosemary Weaver 16-05-1990)

The "protection" style might appeal to the budding aid climber.

Start 2 metres right of 'Beat More Meat' at very thin, almost closed groove. Up groove with micro-wires and Crack'n'Ups (or hand-placed peckers maybe) for token protection. Finish up wall above.

Starts up 'Wogs at the Piles', but instead of breaking right continues straight up the face. At times the gear is small and spaced.

Previously described as "Good climbing but has some runout moves above not brilliant protection". Circa 2017 two retrobolt were added: one at the start (shared by Bedlag), and another bolt halfway (this has since been removed).

Start at the arete of 'Bed Lag' and do a rising traverse through bulge across flakes to right arête. Up and finish slightly left.

Diagonal crack 10 metres left of Huey with hard start.

Just behind Huey wall and a bit to the left is a small orange wall with and undercut start. This line take the twin seams with the small triangle roof at the start, beware of the loose looking blocks on the ledge. from the ledge head right through the steepness to the top

Stem scoop, move R to join L trending line.

Start: Start under the steep scoop.

Gets rave reviews.

Start 2m R of RoE.

Rooflet into seam, L at ledge then back R to arete.

Committing hand-traverse.

Start in gully around right of 'Pibroch'.

Hand-traverse left around an arete to bottomless crack and climb this.

Follow Green Shirt to just after the ledge but then break left following diagonal line past bolt. Finish right of the end of Turquoise.

Doesn't have to be a solo like the first ascent but not a lace-up. Include a big cam and RPs. Start just right of Turquoise and follow the rounded black arete.

Start on the right wall of the side gully. Clip bolt runner then climb up and right, a bit boldly, to arete.

Could be a poxy delight if you break a hold and crater. Contender for worst route that made it into the Mentz/Tempest guidebook. Wall 3 metres right of More Moves, just below the boulder-choke. The crux starts when you're standing on the ground, trying to work out where the route starts. One option is via the pockets (no gear); another is via the vertical seam a couple of metres up the hill (miniscule grips). The best option is probably to find a better route (which isn't hard in this gully!).

Scary start.

Approach via gully and chimney right of Fever Pitch. The arete right of Not Just A Pretty face from top of approach chimney.

Up and left to top of corner from which BH escapes. Up and right past BR to thin line right of arete, almost back into BH below final triangular roof. Step left and up past BR to double ring bolt belay and rap.

Start: Start: As for 'Blue Hawaii'.

Bring two bolt-plates.

Crack on left arete, step left around small roof and up.

Seam just right of Parsley. Start at Rosemary then tend left.

Takes the overhanging sharks tooth arête on the N edge of the large slab/boulder underneath Dazed and Confused (20) on the Pharos.