Oliver Stone Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lee Cujes Ben Jenga Jason McCarthy Paul Frothy Thomson Andy Brown Jarrod Matt Langley Bob Brown Jack Brown Ryan Holmes

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Oliver Stone 13 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Oliver Stone 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.627214, 150.270632

description

South west facing steepish wall hidden inside a shady canyon.

access issues

This is a shared use area with local residents and visiting bushwalkers. Don't spoil the place.

ACANSW has been advised by Blue Mtns City Council that car parking congestion along Burton St on weekends and pubic holiday periods is an access concern. Residents are lobbying Council to "solve" this issue and it is in climber's best interests to try and limit the amount of cars parked on Burton Street. Carpool if you can, walk or ride a bike if you are a local, park further away to spread out the congestion - Wombat Street is empty and only 100m away. Whatever you do, please don't park across driveways, party in the carpark, dump rubbish or otherwise make the residents life unpleasant.

inherited from Celebrity Crags

approach

Walk 100m left from Cliff Richard and drop down and around right to find this wall.

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Kids Slabs The first three mystery routes (bolted early 2018) are on a low angled mossy slab right side of the steep shady wall. More info required! Rumour has it they were apparently bolted by someone "English" for his kids?
2	Unknown Project 1 The right most of the super easy black slab routes. Looks pretty appalling. Set: Unknown		SportProject 15m
3	Unknown Route middle Climb straight up to the high anchor. Very easy, lot of bolts. Set: Unknown	5	Sport
4	Unknown Route 5m left. Start up grotty groove, then not much better easy angled climbing above. Set: Unknown	4	Sport
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
The Dark Gully Down left of the easy slabs is this very shady and steep wall inside a lush gully.
6	★★ Find The Positive Right hand route up through steepness. FA: lloyd wishart, 10 Feb 2018	23	Sport 15m, 7
7	★★ Age Against the Machine Route 1m L starting at the big shark-fin hold. Quite cruxy! Set: lloyd wishart, 2017 FA: lloyd wishart, 18 Apr 2018	26	Sport 17m, 9
8	★★ Prince Of Darkness Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome. FA: Lee Cujes, 24 May 2020	28	Sport 18m
9	★★★ Fade To Black The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29. FA: Lee Cujes, 13 May 2020	29	Sport 20m
10	Donny Darko About 10m L of FTB. Note that this is not the warmup you are looking for. Two close bolts on initial tricky black wall to ledge. Third clip is reachy (if this was close to your limit you might like a #2 cam or panic quickdraw). Interesting, steeper wall climbing above relents to a slabby finish. Last few metres can remain damp after rain, eyeball it from the ground before starting. FA: Lee Cujes, 19 Jun 2020	22	SportProject 18m
11	★ From The Depths The scoop feature 10m L. Carefully traverse in across the ledge to clip first bolt and begin. Reasonably sustained with a crux lunge that is a bit more powerful than you want it to be at the grade. FA: Lee Cujes, 13 May 2020	23	Sport 15m
12	★★ A Shot In The Dark A great little testpiece. 5m L of FTD. Stickclip and traverse in from the L. Techy, bouldery moves past the second bolt on pockets to get established on the face above. Classy climbing on ripples and incuts from here to the top. FA: @1293 & Lee Cujes, 9 May 2020	24	Sport 17m
13	Take Two 5m L of ASITD at the black face with small rooflet. Start at flake. Stickclip, then very powerfully up and right to tough second clip. Very thin to the third, then relax, it's in the can. FA: Lee Cujes, 7 Jun 2020	26	Sport 12m
14	★ Second Wave Links from the second bolt on COVID into the third on Take Two. FA: Jason McCarthy, 7 Jun 2020	20	Sport 14m
15	★ COVID Furthest L route up the gully. Three bolts to anchors. Stickclip! FA: Sammi, 9 May 2020	19	Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
4		Unknown Route	Sport
5		Unknown Route middle	Sport
19	★	COVID	Sport 10m
20	★	Second Wave	Sport 14m
22		Donny Darko	SportProject 18m
23	★★	Find The Positive	Sport 15m, 7
	★	From The Depths	Sport 15m
24	★★	A Shot In The Dark	Sport 17m
26	★★	Age Against the Machine	Sport 17m, 9
		Take Two	Sport 12m
28	★★	Prince Of Darkness	Sport 18m
29	★★★	Fade To Black	Sport 20m
?		Unknown Project 1	SportProject 15m