Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
KP North | |||||
14 | Bum Full' Pikers V
Historical: At the 3rd carrot (now covered by shotcrete) on A Bum Full Of Fists, go Right, up angled corner to top past BR and top out. This route is now obsolete, with BCC having shotcreted the middle section, making the climbing harder, and dangerous, missing critical bolts. FA: Heath Black, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ A Bum Full Of Fists
Description added for historical purposes only: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route: the crucial 2 carrots below the overhang, are now covered in shotcrete, making the grade harder, and a dangerous 7-8m runout from a dodgy drill hole sling. Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face to carrot at 4m, then up to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR (now covered), drill hole sling, then a BR (now covered). Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top. FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984 | 20m, 3 | |||
19 | Gumby's Demise
Start: Just left of ABFOF below the inside corner (alternatively, just right of Light Box #14). Up broken rock to a carrot out left, up right to a stance on a block & 2nd carrot, then delicately up corner to 3rd carrot on face, above, continue up smooth corner to 4th carrot next to tree on face, then continue up passing another carrot. Uncertain as to whether or not the anchors are still there, following BCC's rock scalling & shotcreting of the upper cliff. FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997 | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Lord Gumby
Rebolted. 5 ring bolts lead the way. Start: In front of Light box #14; At the blank face, about 5m left of the inside corner route (Gumby's Demise). Climb the broken face to a low first RB at 3m, up to ledge, passing another RB at 5m, difficult mantle, then up face, past another 3 RBs to chains out left under branches (shared with Oh Mighty Gumby). Note: There's a big 10-12m run-out over easier ground from the 2nd to 3rd RB, if you want, there are trad placements (crack) between these two bolts. FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997 | 18m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Oh Mighty Gumby
Good, continuous climbing. Start: At the broken face, about 2m left of Lord Gumby. Up the easy blocks to a high first bolt, then very thin moves (crux), to 2nd RB, continue up on blankness & trend left to jug + corner & ledge & 3rd RB, slightly easier climbing up right to 4th RB, follow the corner to 5th RB, up right of overhang to 6th RB, then to chains above right (underneath the tree branch). (Shared with Lord Gumby.) Retrobolted, now with 6 RBs. FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997 | 18m, 6 | |||
21 | Where's Rocky?
Start: About 4m right of Light Box #13. Below the overhanging corner. Up broken rock to first carrot, to a small ledge & 2nd carrot, follow corner up to 3rd carrot, up right through small overhang & 4th carrot, out right across ledges to broken corner, up this to 5th carrot (out left) & big jug to double rings out left. Remember to bring bolt plates. FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997 | 18m | |||
18 | Trolly's Triumph
Start: 2 metres right of Light Box #13. Below the line of rings to the left of the corner. Straight up wall on blocky holds to hard move on slab and anchors. Original finish somewhat encroached upon by shotcrete. FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997 | 18m, 5 | |||
19 | Call the Cops
Start: Just right of Light Box #12, just right of the Wallbanger tree. Five RB's to chain. High first bolt, then evenly spaced to anchors. Shares top 2 RBs with Wallbanger to chains. NB: This route tends to weep for several days after rain. This route has been retrobolted. FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996 | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Wallbanger
This route has been retro-bolted. Start: Directly in front of Light Box #12. Climb the spreading Fig tree at the start to first BR, then thin moves up to a ledge, move Right along this to 2nd BR. Straight up to a 3rd BR just Left of the arete, then traverse Right under the overhung & up the blank corner passing another 3 RBs to chains. FA: Andrew Barry, 1984 | 22m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse
Start: Slightly left of Light Box #12. The smooth face just left of the Wallbanger tree. Hard start protected by an RB. Push over bulge to another RB and up thin face to a 3rd RB, then push on to clip a fourth RB below the overlap and use the hefty undercling to gain the face above. Continue up the thin slab, then easier (but run-out) to 5th RB and chain 2m above. Now rebolted with RBs & new chains. (NB: The new chains eliminate the older, lower chains, used as an alternative ending, making this route now 22m.) FA: Andrew Barry, 1984 | 22m, 5 | |||
21 | Rear Entry VF
Start: Up Rear Entry to 3rd bolt, then head up right passing 2 more BRs, to chains. Note: this route tends to seep for several days after rain. FA: | 22m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Rear Entry
More joy. Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain. FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984 | 22m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ Ode To The Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck
Start: Slightly left of Light Box #11, 2m left of Rear Entry. Climb the thin, broken face to RB, & up the thin slab to the next RB & a good hold. Blast slightly left up the thin face (crux) to next RB below small overlap & up to next RB & big hold. Finish over small roof to chain. Short climb but a long name! This route tends to weep after rain. FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway, 1988 | 18m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Smooth Sailing
Start: Directly in front of Light Box #9. Up the blocky face, to first bolt, straight up to next RB, then slightly right to 3rd RB on face, continue up the face/corner, passing a 4th RB, to chains. FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess | 15m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ In The Middle Of A Dream
Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.) FFA: Josiah Hess & zac | 15m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Dynamite
Start: Just left of Light Box #9, about 1m left of In The Middle Of A Dream. A daunting start up the blank slab to first RB, continue up the thin slab to a 2nd RB, over this to inside corner & 3rd RB on the black wall, bridge up the corner to a 4th RB, then easier territory to chains directly above in corner. FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess | 15m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ EC
Start: Just Left of lightbox #7. Now retro bolted. 5 ring bolts to a set of anchors. Up over slopers to first RB, then blankness to 2nd RB, easier ground to 3rd RB, then up sheer face/corner, passing another 2 RBs to chains on Right. Rather chossy climbing, needs a clean up. FA: Unknown ('s), 1970 | 20m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ GR
Start: Just Right of lightbox #6. A well protected route over good rock. Up the face to a knife-blade arete. Follow the RBs up Right of this, then up the face, passing another 2 RBs. FA: Unknown | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Miasma
Start: Directly in front of Lightbox #6, 2m Left of GR. Committing start up blank slab to 1st RB, big run-out, but easier ground to next RB, then nice moves follow corner up, passing another RB, then delicately to last RB, layoff & pinch the blunt arete & bridge up to chains. FA: Lee Cujes, 1999 | 20m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Forever Gumby
Start: Right of the big Foreclosure block, behind a small tree. Up the varied rock, passing 5 RBs to chains. Keep left of the drill hole at the start & climb straight up to the 2nd RB, up the sharp arete on good moves to 5th RB & chains on ledge. FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1998 | 20m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ unknown
Start: In front of lightbox #3, (sign saying "No climbing in this area") - about 15m left of Foreplay. Up slick wall to first RB, up trending left to next RB, up a very blank wall to next RB, continue up the blankness to final RB & chains 4m above. NB: This sector of the cliff tends to weep for a few days after rain. FA: | 18m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ The New Order
Historical register: This route is now a part of Riverlife property and lies behind it. Clip the first BR from ground and boulder up. Mantle sloping hold and continue up the nice arete past another two BR's to an easy finish. FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993 | 11m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Spack Attack
Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck. Start: just Left of RIAC. Up the delicate face left of RIAC to a crack then up past two BR's. At the second BR trend left and up to finish. Very sustained. A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1985 | 14m, 2 | |||
25 | Mutant Sea Bass
Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property. Start: just Left of Trash Thrash. Up face to overhanging bulge. Through this with difficulty to top. FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999 | 10m, 2 | |||
24 | International Man Of Mystery
Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property. Start: 2m Right of MSB. Up face (no bridging) to ledge. Traverse Right and up through overlap. FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999 | 11m, 2 | |||
18 | Untitled Route
This obscure route is located on a small wall on the left side of the old Navy Stores building (now Riverlife). Two dodgy FH's lead the way up a series of good edges. As of 2022,this wall is now covered in vines & growth. FA: 1995 | 10m, 2 | |||
Left Main Wall | |||||
2 | ★★★ I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)
Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'. | 40m | |||
21 | ★ Earth to Stella
Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs. Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB. FFA: Phil Lawlor & Maree Spinaze, 1995 | 10m, 2 | |||
18 R | ★ A Quickie Before Dinner
Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'. Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip. FFA: ross ferguson, 2001 | 10m, 2 | |||
25 | More Bolts Than Metres
Start about 15m L of Web. Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB. FA: Brendan Fraser, Craig Pohlman & Mark McMahon, 2005 | 7m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ More Bolts Than Metres RHV
Start as for MBTM then at the first bolt traverse right. Climbing on the right side of the bolts all the way to the chains. This creates a easier variant to MBTM. | 7m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Plumber's Bum
Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'. Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains. FFA: ross ferguson, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ The Olos Slab
Start below large blank slab. Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB. Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25. FFA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost & Andrew Barry, 1985 FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2000 | 20m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ The Olos & Crimes Connection
Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd RB then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'. FFA: Adam Donoghue & Sean Smith, 1995 | 20m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Crimes and Misdemeanours
Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M". Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb. FFA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1994 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Surrender
Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'. Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB. FA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 20m, 5 | |||
22 R | ★★ Love Hurts
Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut'). Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB. FFA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 20m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Nut
Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark. Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission. FA: Heath Black, 1996 | 20m, 6 | |||
19 R | ★ Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)
Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'. Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it! FFA: Mick Woodrow & Moira Blom, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
22 R | ★ Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure
Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'. Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1992 | 20m, 4 | |||
20 R | ★ Crossed With No Name V
Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN". Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 2 BRs to top. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth | 20m, 4 | |||
22 R | ★★ Crossed With No Name
Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'. As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated). FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth FA: Justin Appietto, 1990 | 20m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Robbie's Robust Runners
Start up short crack as for 'Juice'. From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB. FFA: Rob Stewart, 1985 | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Robbie's Robust Runners (Direct Start)
Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark. Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st RB off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go. | 20m, 5 | |||
20 R | ★★ After the Gold Rush
Start up short crack as for 'Juice'. Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip. Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland. FFA: Adam Donoghue & Paul Saunders, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
20 R | ★★ Juice
Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'. Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt. Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Martin Lama, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Mank Mistress
Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop. Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019. Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains. FA: Rick White, 1969 | 18m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Pass the Bosch
Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'. Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing. FFA: Dave Whitworth & Michael Long, 2000 | 18m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Prickles
Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang. Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. FA: Unknown, 2003 | 18m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Silly or Serious
Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS". Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Halva
Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H". Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB. FFA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1992 | 20m, 5 | |||
20 R | ★★ Kiwi
Start at the "K" mark. Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1992 | 18m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)
Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD". Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'. Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV". FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1992 FFA: Lee Cujes, 2004 | 18m, 6 | |||
21 | ★ Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)
Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD". Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top. Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993 FFA: Lee Cujes & Chris Gibson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe
Start at "TS" mark. Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB. FA: Bernie Corfield & John Jones, 1980 FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Coles & Chris Gibson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail
Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'. Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'. FA: Guy Pearce, Cass Crane & ross ferguson, 2004 | 18m, 5 | |||
17 R | ★ Slippery When Wet
Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Up to very high RB below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 RBs on wall above to DBB. FFA: Darrin Carter & Adam Donoghue, 1994 | 18m, 4 | |||
15 R | ★ Wind in the Willows
Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'. Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs. FFA: Darrin Carter & Darren Watter, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Crap
Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C". Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains. (Rebolted May 2020) FFA: Darrin Carter & John Hattink, 1993 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 | Malcontent
Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M". Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R. (Equipped with RBs May 2020) FFA: Darrin Carter, 1993 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | Razor
Start 2m right of Crap. Marked "R" . 3 RBs to DBB. High first bolt! Can be climbed by clipping the first two bolts of Crap. (Rebolted July 2020, QCRC) FA: Darrin Carter & Ross Denington, 1996 | 18m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Untouched
Start 2m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN". Follow line of 3RBs then a FH to DBB. FFA: Darrin Carter & Adam Donoghue, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
16 | Dirty Situations
Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS". Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out. Beware getting to first bolt! FFA: Darrin Carter & Adam Donoghue, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Saturn Return
Traverse. Start at 'Insomnia'. Up to 1st bolt on 'Insomnia' then traverse L to 1st BR on 'Slippery When Wet'. Continue up and L to 3rd bolt of 'Kiwi' and finish up this to chains. FFA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1992 | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Stephen's Eyeful Tower | 18m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Bottle Stopper | 18m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Slow Cure
Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'. Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests. FA: ross ferguson, 2005 | 18m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only
Start at "SRO" mark. Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB. FA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Without Council Approval
Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB. FA: ross ferguson & Claudia Ferguson, 2005 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ Pentennial Romanticide
Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'. Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Adam Gibson & Ria Zoeller, 2009 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Septuagenarian Sound Effects
Before anyone else objects to the name as being "derogatory" or "demeaning" to "old" people (is that not demeaning or at least patronising in itself?) let me point out that I AM a Septuagenarian and that the name accurately reflects the effort I had to put into making the first ascent - an effort that most Septuagenarians and almost-Septuagenarians - if they are still climbing - will readily acknowledge and agree with. Start midway between Smog and The Hyena's Heinie. Climb up through the slightly overhung V in the rock with first and second bolt to your left (the main crux). Continue upward following the line of bolts (obviously!) and stepping occasionally to the left as you go. Rock quality and hand holds are generally surprisingly good, but it might take a bit of searching to find them - on your first climb at least. Advisable to use long quickdraws or short slings on at least two of the bolts to minimise rope drag. Twin bolts with rings at anchor, or top out. Bolted on Wednesday 24th June 2020; bolts tested and FFA on Friday 26th June 2020. FA: Adrian Woodcraft, 13 Apr 2017 FFA: Adrian Woodcraft & Luke Grindrod, 26 Jun 2020 | 18m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start)
Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start. An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt. FFA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson | 18m, 5 | |||
13 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie
Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted. Set: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur
Start at the faint "SI" mark. Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 18m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees
Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB. FA: Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman & ross ferguson, 2005 | 16m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts
Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'. Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'. FA: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin & Kevin Coleman, 2005 | 16m, 5 | |||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy
Start at the "DA" mark. Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB. FA: Marcus O'Mara, 1994 FFA: Kevin Coleman, ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 16m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Dinosaur
Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy' marked "D". Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier. FA: Craig Pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2005 | 15m, 5 | |||
21 R | ★ Pre Menstrual Tendons
Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT". Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge. FA: Martin Lama & Michael Woodrow, 1993 | 18m, 5 | |||
22 R | ★ Froth
Start up the gap between the overhangs, 2m R of 'Pre Menstrual Tendons'. Easy climbing past 2 RBs, then pass flake with optional gear placements that make the run out less harrowing. Finish over crux overhang with 2 RBs to DBB. FA: Martin Lama & Michael Woodrow, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
19 R | ★ Arrow
Start at the "A" mark just below the drill hole. First bolt is very high. Slinging the drill hole offers some protection but still take care not to fall while clipping. 4 RBs & DBB. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Martin Lama, 1993 | 18m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Valve Replacement Technicians
Start 2m L of 'FOBS'. 6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'. FA: Graham Page & Adam Dodson, 2007 | 18m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Far Out Brussel Sprout
Start at the "FOBS" mark. Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB. FA: Darrin Carter & Adam Donoghue, 1993 | 18m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Move Over Brussel Sprout
Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'. Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB. FA: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1994 | 18m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy.
Start 5m R of 'MOBS'. A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB. | 15m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Manacubus
Start 1m R of 'That Boy Needs Therapy', 3m L of 'Plunging for Mudbunnies'. Up past 2 RBs then clip 3rd RB at lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB. FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Phillippa Newton, 1999 | 16m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Plunging for Mudbunnies
Start at drillhole 2m L of 'Tuesday Afternoon Walk'. Hard boulder start up drillhole then straight up past 3 FHs to below overhang. Awkward reach out to 4th FH and lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB. FFA: Andrew Mason | 18m, 4 | |||
Right Main Wall | |||||
22 | ★ Waterfall
NB: Climb only if it has been dry for a week or so. Start: Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips. (Note: December 2022 - following the severe rock scaling here, by BCC, I checked the fixed hardware & found it untouched & unscathed. M. Gamble) FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser & Josh Combes, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist
Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'. Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain. The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 16m, 5 | |||
17 | AdventuREX
Follow 6 FHs to hidden anchors, Avoid the choss/crack on the right Set: Scotty Does & Sebas Penuela, 18 Jul 2023 FFA: Sonia Komonen, 18 Jul 2023 | 16m, 6 | |||
21 | ★ Junket
Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'. Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty. FA: Rocky | 17m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Violet Berets
Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors. FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee & Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Pink Berets
Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'. Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station. FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Coles, 2003 | 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Bouncy Castle
Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'. Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat. FA: Unknown, 1980 | 18m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Busted Xylophone
Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors. Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt. FFA: Unknown | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Pommy Bastard
Start at the "PB" mark. Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs. First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there. FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber... | 18m, 5 | |||
21 R | ★ The Rasp
Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R". Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors. FA: Mike Johnston, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Kass
Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'. First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains. A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment. FA: John Webb & Rob Brodribb, 1975 FFA: Steve Kloske, Bendan Balderson & Adam Gibson, 2013 | 18m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Bombadil
Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B". A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole & Mark Poole, 2002 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row
Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16. FFA: David Reeve, 1968 | 18m, 5 |