Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Doctors rocks Mordor | |||||
V0 | First Breakfast
Ocean facing side of the first boulder the Mordor sector. Right hand hold and swing out left over the water to gain a solid left foot. Up through the scoop to the summit. FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017 | ||||
V1 | ★ Second Breakfast
Low tide only. Stand start below the bulge on the ocean side of the first boulder. Up through the scoop as for First Breakfast. FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 Dec 2017 | ||||
V3 | ★ Torech Ungol
Overhanging corner on the ocean side of Ruby Right boulder. Sit start in the bottom of the abyss, lay back up the corner while avoiding boulders below and behind. FFA: Fil Kindblad FA: Fil Kindblad, 24 Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Gollum, The Real Hero | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Gort
Sit start same as tramp stamp, follow the crack left and up. FA: Chris L, 4 Jan 2019 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tramp Stamp
Sit start at the two pockets and up the face. | 2m | |||
V0 | V0 (sit start)
Up the arete to the right of Tramp Stamp. | 3m | |||
V0- | VE (stand start)
Easy face right of V0. | ||||
V2 | ★ Ruby Right
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Mount Doom
Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Bro Code
Hang start with poor feet. Left hand in vertical slot and right hand on lowest pinch. | 3m | |||
V6 | Broner
Sit start at the arete, up to the right. | 3m | |||
V2 | V2 (sit start)
Sit start and up the arete. | 3m | |||
V1 | Left Arete
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Middle
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Right Arete
SDS. FA: Moses, 2019 | 2m | |||
V1 | Lip Traverse
SDS. Can be done in either direction FA: Moses, 2019 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Doctor Dirtbag
Contender for the best boulder at Doctors. Sit down start with arms wide on two side pulls. Big move to knobby hold and then nice flowing moves to good hold about half a metre from the lip. Committing moves to gain the lip and then slightly traverse right for the top out. Tidal dependent but an excellent problem. FA: Liam, 7 Mar | 4m | |||
V2 | 1
Sit start on the right and follow the break right round the boulder to top out up the back. | ||||
V3 | 2
SDS Up the right arete. | ||||
V1 | 3
Start in the break and top out up the slab. | ||||
V0 | 4
On the boulder behind to the left. Sit start with feet as low as possible, hands on each arete and straight up. | ||||
Doctors rocks Emergency Medicine | |||||
V1 | ★★ Unnamed V1
Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face. FA: K. Bolton | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Unnamed Sit
Sit start on left down point. Straight up face. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Neuralgia
Start low and left with right hand on a bad sloper in the roof. Move up and right, avoiding the jugs on the centre of the face, finish up the right side of the face. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Narya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start matched on the big rail, up to the arete and top out. Nice moves on jugs the whole way. FA: Moses | ||||
V3 | ★★ Nenya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start low on small holds, heel hook and straight up through side pulls. | ||||
V1 | ★ Vilya
On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up. | ||||
V0 | ★ Injury blues
Easy and enjoyable movement directly opposite Neuralgia. FA: Mackenzie Lovell, 28 Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | V5 Hang Arete
Between Mordor and the main area in the middle of the boulder field there are some individual problems: Start on undercling then up left arête. | ||||
★ The secret garden
Sit start on the jug on the right of the arete. Climb the arete, staying mostly right and top out through the branches. FA: Mackenzie Lovell | 5m | ||||
V1 | ★ Frontier Podiatrist
Straight up the center of the face. FA: K Bolton | ||||
V5 | ★★ Osteopathy
Sit-start at the base of the triangular white wall. Up using crimpers on the face and left arête to reach a jug at the apex of the triangle. From here either head straight for some excitement or cut right to traverse off. Sit start, right of FP | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Loop Of Henle
Start round the corner on the jugs, loop round the bottom of the boulder then an awkward move on to the slab which is climbed to the top. Final move a little trickier than you would like in that position. | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Emergency Medicine
Awesome highball arête. Follow the tufa feature up the arête using a small pocket on the face to gain the jugs just below the lip. Careful on the top-out. | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Rising Tide
Brilliant face climbing straight up the middle of highball face. A piker's variant can be done by exiting out left mid-height (V2). | ||||
V6 | ★★ Tidal Pressure
Just west of the Emergency Medicine area there are two quality problems together in a small depression created by the jumbled boulders: Start on the furthest left jug. Traverse the face avoiding reaching over the lip for jugs. Top-out up the headwall. Quite pumpy. With the tide coming in the water will slowly creep up the landing and this can create some added time pressure. | ||||
Doctors rocks The Beach | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Birdman
Sit down start on rock to the left of the boulder. Move up and right to match a side pull. Continue to traverse low on the boulder on out stretched moves to the arete and finish up on "Don't Be a Darius." FA: Liam | ||||
V3 | V3
Highball, stand start. | ||||
V2 | V2
Highball, Stand start | ||||
V2 | Don't be a Darius
Stand start FA: D. Khadembashi | ||||
V4 | Be a Darius?
Sit start variant | ||||
V1 | ★ V1 sit
Sit start, up through the black scoop. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Golden Eel
Standing start between two small boulders. Left hand in jug, jump to juggy rail, traverse right till the rail ends, up and over. Fun campus traverse or feet available. | 5m | |||
V2 | Pocket Problem
Stand start at the left hand pocket. (Please Edit if proper name and FA are known.) | ||||
V3 | ★ Oscar The Grouch
Start as low and right as possible and head left through the roof and up pocket problem. FA: Moses & Ben Young, 1 May 2016 | ||||
V0 | Tinea
Start right hand in undercling and left hand on rail, bump straight up. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Warm up Traverse
Start on the ledge on the ocean side of the boulder and traverse around, back to the ledge. | ||||
VB- | T1
These problems are on the beach side of OTG. Follow the flake up to the top. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
VB | T2
Stand start with left undercling and right on a crimp. Couple of moves to the top. FA: Liam, 26 Feb 2022 | ||||
Devonport Mersey Bluff Bouldering | |||||
VB | 1
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | Fisitng with an audience
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | 3
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | 4
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | 5
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | Don't Instagram Strangers
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 4m | |||
VB | 7
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 2m | |||
VB | 8
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 3m | |||
VB | 9
FA: Mike Hitchcock | 2m | |||
V1 | Watch me make it rain
Traverse either direction. From #1 all the way over to the tussocks and back. FA: Mike Hitchcock | 15m | |||
VB | Below lookout
| ||||
16 | E
Line straight up to middle anchors | 6m | |||
14 | G
Straight up to rightward anchors | 6m | |||
12 | ★ H
Ramp to right of rightward anchors | 6m | |||
Jarvs Table Boulder
West of the lookout, and past a small inlet, facing west. Can be approached walking down from lighthouse past a memorial. There are 2 sets of u bolts on top of this boulder, and a table like boulder at its base. | |||||
V0 | ★★★ Groove
Ocean facing groove, left of left arete | 4m | |||
V1 | Left arete
| 5m | |||
V1 | Face
Middle of face on wall facing “the table”. Eliminate the big hold for more challenge | 5m | |||
V0 | Corner crack
Finger crack | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Smithys face
The face between the 2 aretes, use both or eliminate one. About grade 21 | 5m | |||
V1 | Under lookout b
To the right of the fractured small corner, then up next tier to lookout | 10m | |||
V1 | Chasm 1
Starting in the chasm, straight up the crack. | 8m | |||
V4 | Chasm 2
Start in Chasm, Straight up the crimps on the face to slab. | 8m | |||
Devonport Don Heads The Submarine | |||||
V2 | Thank the Stars
Sit start laybacking the left juggy sidepull. climb up and top out above where you started. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 2m | |||
VB | The Non-Climbers Ascent
Climb up the easiest part of the boulder. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 2m | |||
V1 | Periscope
Sit Start on juggy rails and move up through crimps and topout FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 2m | |||
V0+ | Odd Submarine
Stand start on jug and move up the wall through jugs and topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Lanky Submarine
Start the same as Odd Submarine then traverse to the right staying low through the funky crux in between Spooky Submarine and Super Submarine. Finish up Easy Submarine. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ Admin Please Delete.
Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish. FA: Dave Pastafarian & Mackenzie Lovell, 25 Oct 2023 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Admin Please delete
Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish. FA: Dave Pastafarian & Mackenzie Lovell, 25 Oct 2023 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Arboreal Submarine
Start on slopey feet above base of wall, between the two columns. Move up via sidepulls culminating in a heroic throw for the slot. Big move to fantastic jugs to finish. FA: Dave Pastafarian & Mackenzie Lovell, 25 Oct 2023 | 4m | |||
V2 | Spooky Submarine
Stand start with left hand on side pull crimp and right hand on slopey crimp. climb up through sidepulls and crimps and topout. Avoid using juggs to the far right. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Super Submarine
Stand start on good feet and climb up the cool jugs and topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
VB | Easy Submarine
Start standing on ledge. climb up on jugs to the next ledge where you ca reach the top to topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Detached Submarine
Climb detached pillar using thin cracks either side. The top 2/3 of the block is detached lots of movement when pulled outwards when topping out FA: Dave Pastafarian | 4m | |||
VB | ★★ Yellow Submarine
A great fun climb on jugs for beginners. stand start to the right of the arete on platform. climb up and to the left to the arete and finish up the arete. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | Buggy Submarine
Stand start on jugs and move up the pillar with cool holds. Topout above the start FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Disco Submarine
Stand Start matching the high horn. climb up the face with disco moves and topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V1 | Coal-Powered Submarine
Standstart in the not-so-chimney and climb up the not-so-chimney then topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V0 | West Coast
Sit Start on holds and climb up to topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 2m | |||
V3/4 | Intergalactic Submarine
Start as per Lanky Submarine but traverse the whole boulder and finish up Coal-Powered Submarine. Ground ledge and lip of boulder are out. FA: Sam Bycroft, 21 Jan 2023 | 15m | |||
Sisters Beach Seaside Area | |||||
V3 | ★ High Tide
Start on the crimps above the small boulder that Tidal sits on. Move straight up through the jugs finishing left at the highest point of the boulder. FA: Moses Bassett | ||||
V1 | ★ Ripped Tide
Start hanging on the jugs and follow them right and then top out above. FA: Moses Bassett | ||||
V4 | ★ Low Tide
Start on the small holds on the lowest point of the boulder and follow the best line out. FA: Moses Bassett | ||||
V3 | ★ Deep Tide
This climb is on the NE side of the bolder. Start on two crimps and small feet, big move to a poor side pull/gaston and then easy finish FA: Moses Bassett | ||||
V1 | Ease Down the Road
| ||||
V2 | ★★ Easy Converts
| ||||
V1 | Pillar
Start below small roof and then move up over the roof avoiding large boulders to behind. Finished up on jug on the face and step off or alternatively a high and easy top out. FA: Liam, 3 Feb 2023 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Prospect
SDS Start with the lip and the odd jug under the roof at the RH end and traverse the lip of the roof the whole way round. FA: Moses, 9 Dec 2021 | ||||
V9 | Project 2
|