Over The Hill Guide

The furthest route left at the crag. Start a few metres left of QwaC. Boulder past the first bolt and then more easily up and right past 3 more bolts to a lower off above QwaC. Pleasant climbing on mossy scoops and slab-jugs.

Magic broomsticks were out in force during the first ascent. Starts at the thin crack behind a bottle brush. Squeeze up through the branches with technical footwork and disappointing finger locks to a sloper jug. Thin gear. A delicate move takes you to an easy angled, gear gobbling crack that leads to a DBB lower off.

A refresher course in slab technique for those who have let their domestic duties slip. Could be soft for the grade as we haven’t climbed anything “proper” slabby in a while. Start just left of Big Man’s Rump. Delicate crystals to start with take you too some consumer crimps. Then the reality of desperate housewives kicks in hard. Techy slabbing takes you higher past 5 bolts in total to a DBB up high on a boulder above the final slab shared with Big Man’s Rump.

An attractive line. Start up the appealing wide crack. Just prior to the shrubs, escape left onto the steep slab and pad your way up past 3 bolts. Using the edge of the wide crack is permitted if you must. Number 3 and number 4 camalot handy for the wide crack. DBB up high on a boulder above the final slab top out.

A very attractive slab. Right of BMR. A fine example of technical slab climbing. A few tricky bits, so ensure you are topped up with finesse. Follow the line of bolts, staying out of the gulley at the start. A series of very classy sequences made for climbing. DBB lower off at the top.

Not really a climb, but a handy access route from the picnic rock to the base of the boulders.

The first route when descending from Picnic Rock to the base of Yaganing Slabs. Climbs the black slab via small sharp crimpers covered in black dry algae. More appealing than it sounds and a good route. 7 bolts to DBB. First 2 bolts are very close and could do with rationalising.

4m right of Liquorish Slab. Boulder up then step slightly right at the first bolt. Up past 4 more bolts right of a very shallow water runnel. DBB/lower off above right edge of mossy ledge.

The third route from the picnic rock. Dishes out the spankings. Pleasantly cruxy climbing just right of Lash Me Gently. 4 bolts with an easy runout near the top to the same belay as Lash Me Gently. Easier if you are under 30 and wear sensible socks.

It could be 19 left of the bolts or 16 right of the bolts or something else entirely. Climb it how it pleases you. 4 bolts, left of a very thin white streak.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

Not too much suffering thanks to 36Volts of Bosch goodness. Nice face climbing, joining Schizophrenic near the top.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

3 bolts between NL and HP. Then join either route for the finish. Technical and somewhat height dependant. Cruxy.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

Not named after the 18th century Baron Hake. Named after the spikey bushes at the base. Sustained and satisfying, leading to atonement at the top.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

Somewhat of a relief. Early development sketches had it pencilled in as a crag test piece, but it yielded to the combined power of the Swains at a more moderate grade.

Shares a DBB/lower off up high, with Schizophrenic, Narrogin Line, Project Mac, Hakea Penance, and Clemency. 10-12m of climbing then 10m plus of easy slabbing to the anchor.

Climbs the obvious shallow, scooped corner. A fine outing up the slab loaded with dazzling pegmatite jugs. Climbs past 3 bolts to common DBB/lower off with NM. A crag classic.

Just right of Pegmatitic. Climb on large white crystals past the mica “fin” sticking out between the 1st and 2nd bolts (looks like wood!), then directly up the crux bulge at top. 4FH to DBB.

Starts left of the tree growing out of the rock just off ground level. Grade 16 according to Mac Mcarthur and Francois Le Bril. There is no “right” way to get to the first bolt… or the second. But you will find the crux near the third bolt. DBB lower off. Enjoyable.

Starts right of the tree. Reachy boulder problem start (for a grade 13!) takes you to pleasant slabbing. 4bolts to DBB lower off shared with Bril-liant Slab.

Access route to the base of the crag. Find rappel anchor above Yaganing Slabs, just left of vegetation at the top of slabs. Rappel 28m, to anchor of Brilliant slab & Yaganing slabs, second rap to the ground. You can also easily access Pegmatitic & Narry mica routes. Fun multipitch out of the crag via Access route- 4 fixed hangers, very easy slab.

Climb up Yaganing and clip the first bolt. Then traverse right past loose flakes , shrubs and whatever natural gear you feel is appropriate until you reach the fine but short and easy corner. Climb this easily and then head right to a DBB above Book of Torah.

Starts just right of the hanging corner climbed by CUC at the small undercut corner. Boulder up past the first bolt – definite crux. Clip the second bolt and either head left and up the good looking arête or…. Do the crack finish. Four bolts to DBB up high and slightly right of arête finish. Scramble off right and down.

As for Book of Torah, but at the second bolt head straight up to the stereotypical LASER finger crack. It’s too short and a not steep enough but it’s still rather memorable. 2 bolts and some finger sized gear and smaller. Use the same DBB as Book of Torah. Scramble off right and down.

Just right of Book of Torah. High first bolt – stick clip it !! One more bolt and some finger sized gear and smaller. Amusing boulder problem start to easy slab. Use DBB up high as for Book of Torah. Scramble down off right.

Just right of Missing Sock. Oh look, another high first bolt – stick clip it too !! Then amble up past blobs and onto slab. Shoot left and clip the 2nd bolt, shared with Missing Sock and up as per that route.

Start 7m right of Sensible Sock in a right facing corner, behind flake at very right hand end of wall. Up corner to crack, then 4m up diagonally left, then up flaring crack for 7m. Trad belay at flakes. Gear to #1 camalot.