A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Unteres Pegnitztal
186 in Area
- 1.1. Zankelstein 19 in Crag
- 1.2. Riffler 38 in Crag
- 1.3. Düsselbacher Wand 26 in Crag
- 1.4. Hohlleitenfels 11 in Crag
- 1.5. Langenstein 16 in Crag
- 1.6. Kleine Wacht 38 in Crag
- 1.7. Große Wacht 19 in Crag
- 1.8. Schmerzzentrum 6 in Crag
- 1.9. Sieglitzberger Nadel 9 in Crag
- 1.10. Artelshofener Wand 4 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Unteres Pegnitztal 186 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.544190, 11.486798
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new routes possible
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
access issues
Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags
Additional information: IG Klettern closure list
Zoning concept
Please respect signs and zoning.
ethic
1.1. Zankelstein 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: 49.504020, 11.520451
summary
Double tower connected via a big chockstone with hard routes in the shade and exposed, easier climbs in the sun.
approach
In the center of Pommelsbrunn, drive towards Heuchling. Before leaving the village, there is a parking lot on the left, right next to a Zebra crossing.
Opposite the parking lot, walk up "Felsenweg" and just follow the path marked with a red "Z" steeply uphill, past an excellent viewpoint placed on an overhanging rock, to the crag.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Nordturm | ||||||||
| 2 | Z.D. | 5 A1 | ||||||
| 3 | ★ Fürther Weg | 7+ | ||||||
| 4 | ★ Spieglein, Spieglein an der Wand | 9 | ||||||
| 5 | ★ Zankapfel | 9- | ||||||
| 6 | Nordwand | 7+ | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Drachentöter
FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 1993 | 8+ | 12m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Weiße Spinne
FFA: Dieter Leikauf, 2002 | 7+ | 15m | |||||
| 9 | Kamin | 3 | ||||||
Südturm | ||||||||
| 11 |
★ Nordkante
FA: 1931 | 5 | 15m, 1 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Alter Weg
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1905 | 4 | 15m, 2 | |||||
| 13 |
★ Westkante / Basteikante
FA: R. Kolb & Rudolf Buchner, 1961 | 5 | 15m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Westwand
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912 | 4 | 15m, 1 | |||||
| 15 | Kurva Němec | 7+/8- | ||||||
| 16 | ★ Direkte Talseite | 8- | 20m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Talseite
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912 | 7 | 12m | |||||
| 18 | ★ Ostkante / Sporchkante | 6+ | 10m | |||||
| 19 | Tabaluga | 8 | ||||||
| 20 | Kaminwand | 6+ | ||||||
| 21 |
Zankelsteinsprung
Jump from the south tower to the balcony below the summit of the north tower. FA: W. Then, M. Erdner & K. Munkert, 1953 | 2m | ||||||
1.2. Riffler 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.539945, 11.475396
summary
Iconic, jagged tower with three summits and lots of old classics.
approach
Park in Alfalter. Follow one of the streets going east and cross the bridge across the Pegnitz. Follow the gravel road southeast and you'll cross another bridge over the railroad after a few minutes. Turn left and follow the forest road along the rails and into the forest. About 250 meters after entering the forest, the path makes a right turn, and after another 250 meters, the crag is on your left.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Talseite | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ Sturi Gedenkweg
FA: Dieter Cukrowski | 6+ | 35m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Pichlerriss
FA: Pichler | 5- | ||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Bäumlesweg
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1906 | 4+ | 40m | |||||
| 5 |
Josef Buchner Gedenkweg
FA: Rudl Buchner, Reini Förster & Heinz Löser, 1968 | 5 A1 | ||||||
| 6 |
Clensi
FFA: Markus Bendig | 8+ | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Vollrathriss
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912 | 6 | 37m | |||||
| 8 |
Gazastreifen
FFA: Wolfgang Fietz & P. Kubis, 1978 | 8 | ||||||
| 9 |
Orgelpfeife
Variant of "Gazastreifen" avoiding its crux by going into the chimney. FFA: Kurt Albert † & Wolfgang Fietz, 1976 | 7+ | ||||||
| 10 |
★★★ Talkamin
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1904 | 5 | 45m, 2, 1 | |||||
| 11 |
★★★ Rauher Kamin
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg | 5 | 50m, 2, 2 | |||||
| 12 |
BGA-Riss / Alpinaweg
FA: H. Neuner | 6- | ||||||
| 13 |
Graue Kante
FA: Dieter Cukrowski FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980 | 8 | ||||||
| 14 |
Direkte Graue Kante / Easy Rider
FFA: John Bachar, 1981 | 8+ | ||||||
| 15 |
★★★ Dolomitverschneidung
FFA: Jaroslav Krecbach, 1968 | 7- | 37m | |||||
| 16 |
Karl Weinzierl Gedenkweg
Finish variant of "Dachrinne", traversing left into the chimney after the crux. FA: H. Neuner, Maria Weidinger & J. Adelmann, 1942 | 8 | ||||||
| 17 | ★★★ Dachrinne | 8 | 35m | |||||
| 18 |
★ Jakl Nähr Gedenkweg
FFA: Norbert Bätz, 1981 | 8- | 35m | |||||
| 19 |
★ Unentwegtenriss / U-Weg
FA: Willi Scherf, 1928 | 6- | 18m | |||||
| 20 |
Mondscheinkinder
FFA: Daniel Frischbier, 2007 | 8+ | ||||||
| 21 | Linke Südwestkante | 7 | ||||||
| 22 |
★ Südwestkante / Schulterkante
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912 | 7- | ||||||
| 23 |
Bühlerriss / Untere Südwand
FA: Oskar Bühler | 4+ | ||||||
Bergseite | ||||||||
| 25 |
★ Südkante / Südwand
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1912 | 5 | 10m | |||||
| 26 |
Faschingsscherz
FA: Rudolf Buchner & H. Stutzig, 1966 | 6+ | ||||||
| 27 |
Spatzenkante
FA: Kurt Albert †, 1978 | 7- | ||||||
| 28 |
Tölzer Riss
FA: W. Morgenroth & H. Stutzig, 1965 | 5 | ||||||
| 29 |
★ Marmorriss
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1905 | 3 | 10m | |||||
| 30 |
Weiße Stille
FFA: Norbert Bätz FA: Wolfgang Fietz & P. Kubis, 1978 | 7+ | ||||||
| 31 |
Versuchung
FA: Wolfgang Fietz, 1978 | 7- | ||||||
| 32 |
★ Mittelkamin / Linker Schartenriss
FA: | 4 | 12m | |||||
| 33 |
Klappmesser
FA: Wolfgang Fietz, 1978 | 7+ | ||||||
| 34 |
Nordgipfel / Rechter Schartenriss
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1910 | 4 | ||||||
| 35 |
Haßfurter Kante
FA: DAV Haßfurt, 1969 | 8+ | ||||||
| 36 |
Arbeitslosenweg
FA: Wolfgang Fietz, 1978 | 6- | ||||||
| 37 |
Trance Formation
FA: W. Fietz & P. Kubis, 1978 | 8+ | ||||||
| 38 |
Nordkante / Cukrowskikante
FA: Dieter Cukrowski, 1949 | 7 | ||||||
| 39 |
★★ Nordwand / Tausendpfundweg
FA: Hans Tausendpfund, 1926 | 6- | 30m | |||||
| 40 |
Ulrikenpfeiler
FA: Rudolf Buchner, 1967 | 7- | ||||||
1.3. Düsselbacher Wand 26 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.547457, 11.482916
approach
GPS: 11.48241, 49.54737
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Linker Nordkamin / Rockstrohriss
FA: Toni Rockstroh & Georg Vollrath, 1911 | 5 | ||||
| 2 |
Rechter Nordkamin / Vollrathriss
FA: Georg Vollrath & Toni Rockstroh, 1911 | 5 | ||||
| 3 |
Schartenweg
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1910 | 3 | ||||
| 4 |
Bittlingerriss
FA: R. Bittlinger & A. Bartenbacher, 1940 | 6 | ||||
| 5 |
Jubiläumsweg
FA: | 6- | ||||
| 6 |
Karwendelschreck
FFA: Jan Luft, 1993 | 6+ | ||||
| 7 |
★★ Lissypfeiler
schöne lange Route mit Crux vom vierten zum fünften Haken FA: J. Luft, 1992 | 7- | 30m, 9 | |||
| 8 |
★★ Seifertweg
FA: Rudolf Seifert & Alfred Seifert, 1928 | 6 | 25m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Baumannriss
Variant of Seifertweg. FA: H. Baumann & E. Dietzfelbinger, 1983 | 6 | 25m | |||
| 10 |
Wolkenkratzer
FFA: Jan Luft, 2011 | 7 | ||||
| 11 |
★★ Überlebt
FFA: Peter Bayer | 7- | 18m | |||
| 12 |
Kantenbrecher
FFA: Jan Luft, 1990 | 6+ | ||||
| 13 |
Bäumlesweg
FA: | 4+ | 25m | |||
| 14 | ★ Alte Westwand | 3 | 20m | |||
| 15 | ★ Massivausstieg | 4+ | 8m | |||
| 16 |
Tschechensack
FFA: Jan Luft, 1994 | 6+ | ||||
| 17 | Höhlenriss | 4+ | ||||
| 18 |
Robert Rackl Gedenkweg
FFA: Jan Luft, 2004 | 7+ | ||||
| 19 |
★ Janosch
FA: Jan Luft, 1993 | 6- | 15m | |||
| 20 |
Siglriss
FA: Otto Sigl, 1962 | 6 | ||||
| 21 |
Südkamin
FA: Rudolf Buchner & M. Schäfer, 1958 | 3 | ||||
| 22 |
Mausbär
FFA: Jan Luft, 1994 | 7- | ||||
| 23 |
Südpfeiler
FA: D. Zelnhefer & H. Rützel, 1958 | 7- | ||||
| 24 |
Südschlucht
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1910 | 1 | ||||
| 25 |
Westkamin
FA: Rifflerbuben Nürnberg, 1910 | 3 | ||||
| 26 |
★ Flugzeuge im Bauch
kurze Route am ganz am rechten Rand des Felsens | 6- | 15m, 5 | |||
1.4. Hohlleitenfels 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.566294, 11.466603
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Heldpfeiler | 6- | 9m | |||
| 2 | Achtung Tiger | 7 | 9m | |||
| 3 | Fallensteller | 7- | 15m | |||
| 4 | Kreuzfahrt | 7- | 15m | |||
| 5 | ★★ Leitwolf | 6+ | 15m | |||
| 6 | project | 15m | ||||
| 7 | Wolfsbrut | 7- | 12m | |||
| 8 | Schlitztour | 6- | 12m | |||
| 9 | ★ Höhlenfeuer | 5 | 12m | |||
| 10 | Höhlenwächter | 4+ | 12m, 4 | |||
| 11 | Ostpfeiler | 6- | 10m, 3 | |||
1.5. Langenstein 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.568845, 11.462238
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Nach'm Regen | 4+ | ||||||
| 2 |
Buchnerpfeiler
FFA: Rudolf Buchner, 1998 | 6+ | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 3 | Nordwand | 6- | 14m | |||||
| 4 | Nordkante | 7 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Dornröschen
FFA: Jan Luft, 1991 | 5+ | 17m | |||||
| 6 | ★ Leoni | 7 | 12m | |||||
| 7 | ★ Abendverschneidung | 5 | ||||||
| 8 | ★ Fluchtweg - Einstiegsvariante | 8- | 15m | |||||
| 9 | ★ Fluchtweg | 6+ | ||||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 10 | ★★ Flockentanz | 6+ | 12m | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Westriss | 4 | ||||||
| 12 | ★ Westwand | 6- | ||||||
| 13 | ★ Südkante | 5+ | 17m | |||||
| 14 | ★ Ostverschneidung | 3 | 12m, 1 | |||||
| 15 | ★ Haraldpfeiler | 6 | ||||||
| 16 | ★ Müller Pietsch Gedenkweg | 6- | ||||||
1.6. Kleine Wacht 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 49.560989, 11.496452
approach
Park in Vorra Raiffeisenstrasse (
49.560667, 11.496017). Walk staight ahead the Großmeinfeldweg, turn left into Oberer Höhenweg. After 200m follow a tail on the right side to the crag.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Bergzigeunerweg
FA: Rudolf Buchner & Peter Sandner, 1960 | 6 | 20m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Brüchig & Genehmigt | 6+ | ||||
| 3 | ★ Muffige Schuppe | 5+ | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Langer Riss
Nuts and cams. Up to BD Cam No 6. | 5+ | 15m, 1 | |||
| 5 | Nordkante | 5+ | ||||
| 6 | Abplatzer | 7- | ||||
| 7 | ★ Abkürzer | 7- | ||||
| 8 | Steinmetz Gedenkweg | 7- | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Steinmetz Gedenkweg - Direkteinstieg | 6 | ||||
| 10 | ★★ Muskelmacher | 7 | 14m | |||
| 11 | ★ Plattensprint | 5+ | 15m, 3 | |||
| 12 | ★ Ostermarsch | 4 | 12m, 3 | |||
| 13 | Holzhackerriss | 4- | ||||
| 14 | ★★ Feierabendweg | 5 | ||||
| 15 |
★★ Vagabundenpfeiler
polished, 2 exits FA: R. Buchner, 1960 | 6 | 15m, 5 | |||
| 16 | Müllerriss | 6- | ||||
| 17 | ★★ Linker Wachtkamin | 3 | 15m | |||
| 18 |
★★ Dächlesweg
FA: Klaus Scharrer & Heinz Auer, 1988 | 5+ | 15m | |||
| 19 |
★★ Hans Scharrer Gedenkweg
FA: Rudolf Buchner, 1983 | 5+ | 15m, 3 | |||
| 20 | ★ Rechter Wachtkamin | 2 | 15m | |||
| 21 |
Albertinaweg
FA: Hans Bieringer, 1931 | 6- | 15m, 2 | |||
| 22 | ★ Wildpflaume | 7- | 15m | |||
| 23 | ★★ General Bööt | 7- | ||||
| 24 | Ritterboumweg Variante | 7- | ||||
| 25 | Ritterboumweg | 6 | ||||
| 26 |
Linker Fichtenriss
FA: Oskar Bühler, 1952 | 4 | 10m, 1 | |||
| 27 | Schmale Wand | 4+ | ||||
| 28 |
Rechter Fichtenriss
FA: Oskar Bühler, 1952 | 4+ | 1 | |||
| 29 | Schiefer Kamin | 3 | 12m | |||
| 30 | Erdbeerriss | 6+ | 12m, 1 | |||
| 31 | ★ Wachtverschneidung | 5+ | 12m, 2 | |||
| 32 | ★ Standing Ovations | 7 | ||||
| 33 | ★ Westverschneidung | 6- | ||||
| 34 | Schluchtweg | 5 | ||||
| 35 | Piazriss | 5- | ||||
| 36 | ★ Geheimweg | 5 | ||||
| 37 | ★ Quergang | 3 | 13m | |||
| 38 | ★★ Rissüberhang | 4+ | 12m | |||
1.7. Große Wacht 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.563762, 11.500611
approach
GPS: 11.50060, 49.56380
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Unnamed 1 | 7- | 18m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Vergissmeinnicht | 8- | 20m | |||
| 3 | Wachtroute | 5 | 15m, 3 | |||
| 4 | ★ Seelendoping | 6- | 20m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Schroffenstaner Weg
FFA: Jan Luft, 2013 | 7 | 18m | |||
| 6 | ★ Neue List | 8+ | 20m | |||
| 7 | ★ Life in the Balance | 9- | 20m | |||
| 8 | Gleichgewichtsstörung | 9- | 20m | |||
| 9 | Spätzünder | 9+ | 20m | |||
| 10 | ★★ Fahrkarte | 9 | 20m | |||
| 11 | ★ Lisbeth Salander | 9 | 20m | |||
| 12 | ★★ Anna Karenina | 9- | 20m | |||
| 13 | ★ Abgestaubt | 8+ | 20m | |||
| 14 | ★★ Abgestaubt direkt | 8+ | 20m | |||
| 15 | ★★ Krieg und Frieden | 9- | 20m | |||
| 16 | ★★ Caveman | 9+ | 20m | |||
| 17 | Rattengang | 8 | 20m | |||
| 18 | ★★ Sportflieger | 7 | 20m | |||
| 19 | ★★ Sepp Moser Gedenkweg | 6+ | 20m | |||
1.8. Schmerzzentrum 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.564561, 11.501468
approach
GPS: 11.50151, 49.56454
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Akupunktur | 8/8+ | ||||||
| 2 | Supercrack of Vorra | 8/8+ | ||||||
| 3 | My Name is Crimp | 9 | ||||||
| 4 | Pokerface | 8+/9- | ||||||
| 5 | Tick Attack | 9+/10- | ||||||
| 6 | Shortcut | 9 | ||||||
1.9. Sieglitzberger Nadel 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.572704, 11.490169
approach
GPS: 11.49014, 49.57273 go to Artelshofen. After railway underbridge drive right - after few meters is a parking site.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Westkamin | 2 | 12m | |||
| 2 | ★ Westwand | 3+ | 12m | |||
| 3 | ★★ Talwand | 7- | 12m | |||
| 4 | ★★ Sternenkante | 7 | 12m, 5 | |||
| 5 | ★★ Talseite | 6 | 12m | |||
| 6 | Ostseite | 4 | 16m | |||
| 7 | Ostwand / Massiv Ostkante | 6+ | 16m | |||
| 8 | ★★ Fingerriss | 8- | 16m | |||
| 9 | ★ Nordriss | 7- | 16m | |||
1.10. Artelshofener Wand 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 49.577680, 11.497556
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Fur Burckhard | 6 | ||||
| 2 | Halb So Wild | 6 | ||||
| 3 | Alte Westwand | 5+ | ||||
| 4 | Direkte Westwand | 5+ | ||||
