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Seasonality
Summary
Limestone
Large north-west face with great, long face climbs in the right part, two dihedrals in the middle and shorter climbs in the 8th grade in the left part.
Description
Slab
Vertical
Wet in rain
North West
Rarely visited crag with worthwhile routes. The left, upper part is accessed via a steep gully; there's a bolt to abseil from if you don't want to scramble down again. The right part of the crag offers long, vertical climbs, for the most part in good rock. A set of nuts and slings is recommended.
Access issues
Zone 2
Approach
Steep hike
5-10 min
From Schweinthal in the Trubach valley, drive up the hill towards Schlehenmühle. After the pub, there's a hiker's parking lot on the left. From there, walk south-west, following the trail marked "Kulturweg Egloffstein", which leads down into the valley at the edge of the forest. After 500 meters, the crag is above you on the left (no path).
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
Well established
- The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper.
- Pick up rubbish.
- No unnecessary noise.
- No camp fire and bivvy.
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680490
Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker
Date: 2020
Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.
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Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner
Date: 2021
Band 1 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6100 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 2 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura …
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Sat 13 May
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