Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Christoph Rauch Stefan Campbell Gome Peter Zahn

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand / Schlehenwand 18 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.721645, 11.257840

summary

Large north-west face with great, long face climbs in the right part, two dihedrals in the middle and shorter climbs in the 8th grade in the left part.

description

Rarely visited crag with worthwhile routes. The left, upper part is accessed via a steep gully; there's a bolt to abseil from if you don't want to scramble down again. The right part of the crag offers long, vertical climbs, for the most part in good rock. A set of nuts and slings is recommended.

access issues

Zone 2

approach

From Schweinthal in the Trubach valley, drive up the hill towards Schlehenmühle. After the pub, there's a hiker's parking lot on the left. From there, walk south-west, following the trail marked "Kulturweg Egloffstein", which leads down into the valley at the edge of the forest. After 500 meters, the crag is above you on the left (no path).

ethic

The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
Don't leave toilet paper.
Pick up rubbish.
No unnecessary noise.
No camp fire and bivvy.
Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
No publishing of boulder blocks.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Mensch ärgere dich nicht FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8-	Sport 10m
2	Kratzer FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8+	Sport 10m
3	Schrecksekunde FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8	Sport 10m
4	Primaballerina FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8-	Sport 10m
5	Ballerina FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8-	Sport 10m
6	Nussknacker Suite FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8+/9-	Sport 10m
7	Diagonalweg	4	Trad 20m
8	Winner takes it all Starts at "Schlehenturm" and crosses out half way through "Over the Top" to the rear wall. FA: A. Murek, 2023	7	Sport 30m
9	★ Holdieweg FA: Heinz Arnold & P. Träg, 1977	4	Sport 30m, 6
10	★ Unnamed 1 / Pfeiler	7	Sport 20m
11	★ Reinhold Kroder Gedenkweg FA: Heinz Arnold, P. Träg & J. Schmieder, 1977	5+	Sport 25m, 5
12	0815 FFA: Markus Maier, 2007	6+	Sport 20m
13	Neuer alter Weg / 10 Jahre	6+	Sport 20m
14	★★ Lange Affäre FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt	8	Sport 30m
15	Hakenkrieg FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	8+	Sport 30m
16	★★ Kilian Gedenkweg / Alter Weg FA: Jakl Kilian, 1940	7	Sport 30m
17	★ Fränkisches Kasperltheater FFA: Albert Gilgenrainer, 2002	7	Sport 30m
18	Mauser-Engel-Weg	6	Sport 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
4		Diagonalweg	Trad 20m
	★	Holdieweg	Sport 30m, 6
5+	★	Reinhold Kroder Gedenkweg	Sport 25m, 5
6		Mauser-Engel-Weg	Sport 30m
6+		0815	Sport 20m
		Neuer alter Weg	Sport 20m
7	★	Fränkisches Kasperltheater	Sport 30m
	★★	Kilian Gedenkweg	Sport 30m
	★	Unnamed 1	Sport 20m
		Winner takes it all	Sport 30m
8-		Ballerina	Sport 10m
		Mensch ärgere dich nicht	Sport 10m
		Primaballerina	Sport 10m
8	★★	Lange Affäre	Sport 30m
		Schrecksekunde	Sport 10m
8+		Hakenkrieg	Sport 30m
		Kratzer	Sport 10m
8+/9-		Nussknacker Suite	Sport 10m