Routes as trad in Murihiku / Southland

The crack on right side of wall and just left of chimney, It has a few bolts placed for when the crack-line runs out.

Crack inside and on the left wall of Bluff's Big Chimney, also uses the arete, but you're not allowed to use the opposite side of the chimney.

Climb to the right of Cracker Jack inside the chimney. No use of the back wall otherwise your climbing a grade 12.

Big blocks that are located 10 meters opposite Matai Wall. Could potentially be done as a sport route.

Easy trad climb for beginners

Another easy trad route for beginners

Easy climb up to a Bench (Grade 14) where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult. Turning this climb into a grade 20

This route runs over the top of a deep crack. It is about a fist size crack, it is also recommended to wear tape.

Easy climb up to a Bench (Grade 14) where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult. Turning this climb into a grade 20

Easy climb up to a Bench (Grade 14) where pitch 2 becomes rather difficult. Turning this climb into a grade 20. Though it contains some excellent moves.

A short finger sized crack at the focal point of the crag. Start from the anchors on the shelf above the main arete.

At the Bivi Wall; it should be obvious. Easy trad climb, much like a railway crack line to start with. Finishing on a very nice single crack. It was first climbed in the raining wearing the kiwi classic footwear, 'Gumboots'

A sustained climb up a crack which bisects a steep slab.

Named after a famous Southland climber rock-climber. Classic layback moves.

Crack climb, well protected.

Up a short crack system, over a roof, and onto a greasy slab.

Pitch 1: Start on the slabs to the right of the toe of Kea Dome. Wander up and left (sparse gear) to a steeper crux above gear. Enjoy (and sling?) the chickenheads, and the final left trending groove to DBA just right of the broad arete

Pitch 2: Follow crack left to steep wall (1b), and continue up cracks left; then right, to their end on a low angle slab. Walk left across a foot ledge to excavate a gear belay in a crack by the tussock spur to the left. Descent: scramble steeply off down spur then right across a gully.

First climbed on all gear by John McCartney and Andy Macfarlane in the 90's, but unrecorded. It was rediscovered by Paula and Ruari Macfarlane in 2020. Believing it was unclimbed, they cleaned, climbed and named it, including the pitch two crack. Adding three bolts to keep pro reasonable enough to encourage climbing, unaware of it's history! Less than a month later, an old slide was unearthed that showed John McCartney leading the dyke many years prior, labelled "Stone Road, 16". John was contacted and suggested the bolts stay in. Grade is old school. Gear to hand size plus a big cam for the first pod

Ascend the flake to gain the rad dyke feature.

Either rap in or gain access to the starting ledge from the side. A stiff boulder problem leads into a stellar corner crack with great gear.

Technical slab onto a ledge to very technical moves into a open triangle chimney. Hand jams into difficult moves into a true off-width, once actually in the off-width it's not too hard if you know how to climb off-width. Can be done with a single rack up to number 3 but you may feel more comfortable with at least one 4. No need for bigger gear as the crack narrows towards the back.

Couldn't give it a New Zealand grade, nothing like it here.

This climb ascend the obvious left crack systems on the low angled face of The Finger. It can be done in one long pitch or broken in two below the true summit. It's an adventurous route with good gear. Crack climbing skills are required or up the grade by 2.

This climb ascend the obvious crack systems on the low angled face of The Finger. It can be done in one long pitch or broken in two below the true summit. It's an adventurous route with good gear. Crack climbing skills are required.

The north arete of Puke Wall. Approach as for Esoteric, then turn right and walk down along the base of the wall. The start is 5m past the base of the buttress. Requires a double rack to #2 and potentially triples of finger to had sizes on P2. P1: Scramble 5m up a tussock gully then start climbing. 4 bolts - 17, 17m, Sport. P2: Up and right past bolt, then around arete to hidden bolt, then up/just right of crest to DBA on ledge on arete. 2 bolts and gear - 16, 30m. P3: Up crack then easily along arete to Esoteric anchor. 16, 20m, gear.

Starts up pinnacle to steep crack, from left side of treed ledge. Tree anchor for belayer. Access via P1 Sidewinder, or by scrambling up to ledge from left. Crack to face climb, with steep burly laybacking and big moves, giving way to beautiful, delicate face climbing past 3 bolts to the DBA (shared with Sidewinder).. Cams to BD #3, doubles finger sizes (optional second #2).

Steep trad climbing with excellent gear. Clip the first bolt, swallow hard and crank. Cams up to BD #2

From the shelf, climb up the face and corner crack. Head left at the roof, clip bolt, then run it out to anchor. From anchor, continue through excellent technical face climbing past bolts to anchor. From anchor, follow your nose up ledges to bolt, continue up and in the corner you'll find a piton. Continue climbing up the ridge, past glue in bolts, finishing at anchor chains.

Amazing climbing on solid rock with varied styles. Originally climbed up the crack, then out to Roaring Forties, the FA team returned to continue up the continuing corner, ground up drill in hand. A single rack of cams is required. Climb fixed line to belay in a tree at the base of a wide crack. Belay off tree, atop stripped rock below obvious corner crack. Follow off-width crack to small rooflet, then into finger crack. Soak it up through stunning moves until crack angles out left. continue up corner feature, bridging past bolts and a few gear placements. Move out right onto face and paste yourself to the rock through the delicate crux. Hang on till the anchor. From anchor, take the crack directly above. When the crack ends, load it up with gear and step left to a runnel and a bolt. Continue up to ledge and a natural pro anchor. Climbing continues through moderate climbing past a few pitons to summit

A quality crack climb which can avoid the higher difficulties of Myriad. Climb fixed rope up to tree at the base of offwidth crack. It is best to belay from the tree. Follow crack (might want a #5 for the initial offwidth) to the first horizontal break (12-15m)> Make juggy move out left to rings.

Can be climbed in two long pitches. Climbs face to the left of 'Myriad', with a mixture of bolts and gear to bolted anchor. Climbing continues with great variation, stepping left through small roof, working your way up the face until you gain the arete.

The obvious zigzag crack at the left-hand aspect of the bluff. Double set of cams and a BD #5 and #6 recommended.

Walk down track from bivy for 5 minutes. Just before you veer right down a slippery slope, turn left instead. Follow orange tape west on rough track, cross stream. Walk up hill for 50mtrs or so. Climb past 1 bolt to gain sweet gain fist crack. Rap off tree at top.

P1, 20, 30m, Grade 20. 15mtrs to the left of Feature Face. Climb broken face to gain obvious hand crack. Step right to next crack. Save big gear to the end. DBA

P2, 18, 31m, Grade 18, 6 Bolts plus gear. From anchor step left and climb through dihedral and then up the prow to DBA.

Classic trad test piece, bold runouts, solid gear. Beware of placements with weak surface layer, get em in deep and hard. Double ropes, double rack of cams to hand size. lots of large wires, small cams and RPs. Start 10m left of Feature Face. Climb past 4 bolts, continue straight up o R leaning crack, punch to large under cling (Dont place behind it). Continue up and left to orange rock below R end of rooflet, then weave straight up to anchors above lip. A memorable 50m. Can climb FLC or FF to to top.

On Feature face crag, along the wall to the right of Feature Face route (maybe 15-20m).

This modern route takes a steep first pitch with some memorable moves, and a more laid back second pitch up cracks and face (but with a sting at the end), on nice rock throughout. Starts with some steep bouldery moves at a crack/block feature, then arcs up left towards a roof. Two pitches, mixed pro.

P1: Keep few large-ish cams for above the roof), double bolt ring anchors. (rap route). There is an optional right-hand finish to P2. There is a tree in close proximity to P1 crux... a pain or a blessing, depending on your ideation, as it's tempting to take a perch/rest.

Cuz, It's Fuzzy attacks the clean, white face crack visible from the ground. From the ground, the upper climbing appears to go through a vertical lawn of lichen, but once on the wall is enjoyable. Continue out right to a grassy ledge and rings. A full value pitch.

Just right of 'Cuz, its Fuzzy' is a steep, left facing corner. Climb up towards this, clipping first bolt of "Cuz, its Fuzzy". Before entering the corner, step right and up crack through series of small steppy roofs through steep ground, disappearing over the lip to the right of a bush. Follow your nose up buttress with less gear above, to the DBA of "Cuz, its Fuzzy".

Starts 3m right of the Equilibrium boulder. Climb the wide left leaning crack on trad until it peters out. Save a medium cam or two for the upper face between first two bolts.

P1: Left tending crack to soft white flake. Then get into the DIAGNOLATOR! Trad belay. 20.

P2: Right tending flake, to weakness. Follow right facing crack to half way, then step left to orange patina face. Run it out to the chains! 20.

P1: Climb the obvious crack to trad anchor in cave.

P2 : Up right past 1 Bolt. Stay true to ridge past some beautiful wind polished rock.

This is a classic test piece at its grade. The obvious main, steep corner near the center of the crag. This pitch has great gear with a bolt and a single ring when gear is inadequate (ring is useful to re-thread when cleaning route). Double bolt anchor. Doubles of 1,2 & 3 camelots. Can be aided at A2.

On the right hand end of the crag starting on top of a jumbled blocks. Climb the slab past one bolt to the right facing crack. Double bolt belay right of finish. A good little number.

Climb 'Spin' to its anchor, then climb onto the ledge above. A bolt has being placed to protect this. Belay off the tree in front of the crack. Layback your way over the bulge and jam your way to the anchors. Superb quality, pity it isn't longer.

The Grievance Tree Open Project. Located on the wall 60 metres to the right past Split Persona and down to another shelf. Climb on gear through cracks to reach the first bolt. Clip, and commit to big, hard, and dynamic moves on small holds. Finish up through huge holds up the large overhung.

Located farther west of Split Persona and The Grievance Tree, to access continue around the base of cliffs until reaching a striking, right facing corner which is PSACTCC. Gear placement can be tricky for smaller people. Traverse left at the top of the corner to shared anchors.

Climb past 2 bolts to arete and right facing corner.

Start at obvious corner ramp at right side of crag, various starts possible. Follow crack systems up ramp 20m to top corner of large orange flake. Optional natural belay at flake to reduce drag. Begin pumpy hand traverse left for 5m then up steeply past two bolts to anchor. Continue up the quartz seemed face above to anchor.

Start as for 'Meanderthal'. at 15m break up and left on to delicate face past three bolts. finish as for 'Meanderthal'.

Located in the bush on the west side of The Den is this short, punchy overhanging crack. It is the first route one encounters on the standard approach.

From the far right of crag ascend a mossy slab into obvious hanging corner. The cracks harbour good gear, but can seep. A great little adventure climb.

P1: Follow corner through exposed terrain to a DbA. 17 P2: Move left off belay and traverse (staying low) passing a tree and then a bolt. The DbA is just beyond the bolt. 17 P3: Ascends a great little corner directly above belay to a DbA. 18

Descent: A rope stretching 30m rappel will get you to the handlines below.

On the far left of the crag, follow handlines to the end, where a ring bolt signifies the start of the route.

3 bolts lead up a slab and into a broken corner. Step left after this onto slab and continue up to climb the epic right facing corner to a DbA. Well worth a lap - it's well protected. Take doubles of 0.3 to 1.

Can be in done two small out pitches. A 60m rope is enough to get you back for the handline.

Sol de Tarde, the route of the evening sun. Sol de Tarde was four days in the making, and climbs one of the most stand out walls in Borland. Climbed in true Warren Harding style, the route was climbed ground-up, aid bolting and sky-hooking the crackless bottom half of the wall, whilst further up the wall, with some devious gardening, natural protection begun to appear. An outing which the first three pitches climbs sportingly on superb granite, in which is fully bolted. These pitches hosting some iconic features and movement. Whilst the remaining two pitches takes on some more adventurous climbing with natural protection in places. The first three pitches can be climbed as a well-protected sport route if trad experience is limited for the final two pitches. Be in for an adventure on the final two pitches as it takes hold of the true Borland style of adventure climbing. A single rack of cams from 0.3 - 3 and a set of nuts is suffice for the final two pitches. For the entirety of the route, 12 quickdraws is enough. Best climbed during the months late November - early April as the wall is south-facing and takes a day to dry after a period of rain. The wall gets sun in the late afternoon and makes a perfect location to climb on the warmer days. Most rappels are straight forward beside the second which a delicate diagonal rappel must be made to reach the third anchor of the route. Two sets of ropes is required for rappelling the fourth pitch, otherwise the first three pitches can be rappelled on a 60m rope. Approach - The approach to the Dusk Wall begins opposite the access road to the Confluence Crags. At the pipe which falls beneath the road, follow the stream down to the river. On the true-left side of the river, bright orange marking tape begins to appear. Follow this uphill for about 10 minutes following the obvious marked trail until it takes a hard left and enters the ferns. Push your way through the ferns (A line of weakness has been made) for about 3-5 minutes and the trail will lead you directly to the base of Sol de Tarde.

Start as for Dread Zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch 1. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the Chill-Out ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge.

Follow a shallow groove on the far left side of Moir's Mate, just right of the ridge.

Start up an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove left of Strobe Light.