Routes in Coromandel Peninsula

P1: Up the left face of the corner at the far left of the crag. To a small ledge.

P2: Head left around a small arete, up through interesting climbing to a large ledge.

Can be climbed as one long pitch, but be sure to minimise rope drag. Abseil down the line of Bolt Clinic or JAFA Cake.

P1: As for Midnight Lichening.

P2: From the anchor, step right and climb up the groove. Exciting moves before easing off for the middle section. Overhang to finish with fun, powerful moves (or move right for an easier variation). Shares an anchor with P2 of Bolt Clinic.

P3: Trad with plenty of greenery.

The first two pitches can be climbed as one, but be careful of rope drag.

Decent: From top of P2, easiest to rap straight down the line of Bolt Clinic.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

P1: Starts a few meters right of JAFA Cake. The first half wanders from right to left and back again, mostly on crimps with a few jugs and side pulls. It then eases off for the last few bolts to the anchor.

P2: Shares the last 3 bolts and anchor with JAFA Cake.

P1: Start on the Rata covered ledge, moving leftwards. Sustained climbing that weaves left and right. Anchor is just to the left of a ledge (where the anchor of Power of Persuasion is located).

P2: Up left through a groove, then heads to the right, crossing the line of Power of Persuasion (be careful to stay on the correct line) then up through a corner to the right of the small roof system. The anchor is just below the top of the crag.

You can continue up and to the left to the anchor of Power of Persuasion and admire the fantastic 360° view from the top of the crag.

P1: Starts up and to the left across the small cave. Up the face and to the belay ledge of Climba Sutra, then left up the arete.

P2: Crosses the line of Demons of Bosh then up through the roof. Some big moves then easy climbing to the top of the crag. Anchor is on top of the rock, with great views.

Probably the best route at the crag. Shares the start and first bolt with A Roof Too Far, then climbs diagonally up to the left. A few balancey moves at the top of the face get you to a rest before you take on the roof. A couple of big, fun moves gets you through the roof, a few more meters gets you to the anchor. Fantastic climbing.

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

Straight up the face to a ledge. Use this route to gain access to the following three routes.

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

From the belay of Buckle traverse left then up through the overhanging face. Easier climbing to the anchor. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

P1: Climb Buckle.

P2: Move left to the overhanging crack, follow it up to the right then pull over the lip.

P3: Follow the crack system to the right of the belay, up to the right hand end of the roof. Up a crack and groove system, then left to a bolted belay.

Up the groove then left to the anchor of Buckle.

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

Up Age Concern to the belay of Buckle, then continue up to the right hand end of the roof. Up and over the lip on to the ledge.

Straight up the blunt arete. Move left near the top, then rightwards up the groove to the anchor.

P1: Up the face. Some holds hard to find. Keep moving to avoid the pump.

P1: Start on Première, then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Cross the ine of 100 Buck. Climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

P1: Starts right of Première. Crosses the line of Bring Back Buck. Crux at the top going straight up the overhanging face of the large horn feature.

P2: Up the face.

P1: Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux with some quality bridging. First anchor is shared with Red Line.

P2: Head right to the first bolt (which is shared with Red Line), then follow the bolts up. Fun climbing.

P3: A truly alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

Decent: The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

P1: Fun climbing up the red streak on good holds.

P2: Move right. Shares first bolt with P2 of Pass The Buck. Keep going right, then up the slightly overhanging face and up on to the ledge above to the anchor.

For some bonus fun, link it into P2 of Bucking Fumblies by continuing on from the anchor up and right up the ramp. Then can do P3 of Bucking Fumblies for a fantastic view.

P1: Up the face and trends right out to the arete. Up on to a ledge where you'll find an anchor.

P2: Head straight up from the anchor before trending right for a 17 variant. Or go right from the anchor, then up the white face for the 21 variant. Optional belay where the two variants meet, otherwise keep going up and then right to the next ledge.

P3: A bit runout and exposed in places, but fun climbing. Gets up nice and high for a fantastic view. Climbs up through a groove to a crazy thin oversized handle feature. Watch for loose rocks.

P1: Tough start, then easier climbing up through a groove. Gets more difficult again once you hit the headwall, then up to a big ledge.

Belay your partner up then move left and over a wall to another ledge.

P2: Wild. Up and to the left to a horn feature. Up a groove, then to the right

Climb the left had face, 5m left of Hikuai route. The 1st accent included a run in with a loose rock and a fainting episode 60m up!.

1. 45m (21) 14 Bolts. Bridge up the short off width crack section to the top rock prow below the overhang. Crux lay away move to get established on the left hand face then blast up step ground on large holds. Move right based an abseil belay and climb to the face to the right of the tree up through step ground to ledge and DB belay. A great pitch on great rock.

2. 25m (19)8 Bolts. Climb block arete t left of belay then move left into overhanging corner. Climb this on big holds then up low angel head wall to delux belay ledge. Decent, Back down the route 3 abseils.

3. (21) 10 Bolts. Climb the step face above the belay onto a low angle ramp. Climb this then move left on the "fin" arete, climb up arete to ledge then move back right and climb the face. Move back left at top to DBC belay. Descent, abseil back down route, or 1 abseil across onto the top of the 3rd pitch on the Hikaui route.

This route climbs the main steep face up the centre of Hihi Pinnacle. The first pitch starts up the steep face right of the prominent right facing corner.

1. 32m (20). 10 bolts. Start on the steep face a couple of metres right of the prominent right-facing corner. Pumpy climbing up through a series of bulges (crux) to a large hole. There are two bolts above and slightly to the left of the large hole. After clipping the second of these bolts traverse rightwards along a ramp. There is another bolt hidden. Then continue up and right to the belay. A sustained pitch, stiff for the grade.

2. 25m (20). Move up and right from the belay into a steep white groove. Clip a bolt at the top of this groove below a small roof, then traverse hard left with delicate moves. Continue traversing left with very exposed moves around an overhanging arete to reach a ramp and short corner with a crack. Move up this to the belay. Slightly easy for the grade, but exposed.

3. 30m (20). Climb straight up from the belay past 3 bolts. Try to stick to the white rock, which is more solid than the black rock to the left. At the third bolt traverse right up and into a scoop with an overhang above it. Climb this into a steep corner, with steep sustained and exposed stemming straight up until you gain a slab above with belay.

4. 30m (20). Climb easyish slabs and corners up and to the right of the belay (slightly runout between some bolts). Then climb straight up a steep corner then into an exposed overhang with awesome powerful moves on jugs. Pull over the top of the overhang to a belay on a small ledge just above it.

5. 20m (15). Easy but exposed moves up the arete and slab past a few bolts. Don't stop at the first anchor you come to, continue up a track through the trees to a belay at a rocky knob at the very top of the pinnacle. Probably more like grade 12 than 15.

1. 30m (20) 12 Bolts. Climb up the vertical wall tending left to a small overhang. Climb this using a few deep pockets to the left (crux) up to a ledge at 15m height. Extend bolts and traverse the ledge left around a blunt arete to head wall. Climb groove and face to a large ledge system and DBC belay.

2. 45m (19) 14 Bolts. Variable rock quality on this pitch and lots of rope drag so extend extend extend. Step 1m right of belay and climb corner, move onto right wall of corner and pull up into base of large chimney. The rock here is a mix of conglomerate and friable black rock, however the chimney can be easily climbed by bridging on large holds with closely spaced bolts. At the top of the chimney the rock quality improves, move out right onto the head wall and climb the head wall and slab. At the last bolt traverse left 5m to ledge and DBC Belay

3. 30m (20) 12 Bolts. A steep exposed pitch on good rock. Climb corner directly above belay, the line stays left of the large roof systems on steep rock with good holds. At the top overhang, bridge up the overhanging groove until you can clip the last bolt, traverse right 2m to DBC belay.

4. (18) 30m 10 Bolts. Move right of belay and climb headwall on rock nubbins . Top out on the very top of the pinnacle DBC belay.

Tricky access around back of Hihi Pinnacle. Put up as a Aid route to access the top of the pinnacle. The free climbed in 2020.

1. 10m (16). Climb the low angle groove that cuts through the sea of rata, up past 6 bolts to a large ledge system and DBC belay out left. The rock on the right side is solid , on the left side its no so.

2. 20m (22). Step back right onto the steep head wall and climb the grove to the roof. Move right across the groove on buckets until you’re on the face immediately below the roof/corner. Difficult move to gain corner Once in the corner clip the bolt then move left out of corner onto the head wall. Climb steep wall above (crux). Belay in small hollow on DBC belay, 8 bolts.

3. 25m (21). Muster up some courage then climb the exposed head wall up and to the left of the belay. Once over the lip continue up technical climbing to a small ledge and DBC belay. 10 bolts (approx.)

4. 5m (16). Scramble up arete past 2 bolts to large ledge and DBC belay.

Descend by abseiling down the route. If you have a 60m rope then abseil down to pitch 3 then pitch 2 belay and then from here to the ground.

Having climbed the Hikiuai or Hihi routes why not keep going by tyrolean-traversing across to the Kaweka pinnacle. The Hikuai to Kaweka climb is 9 pitches, probably some sort of record for the North Island and definitely the only one with a Tyrolean traverse in the middle.

1. 15m. Tyrolean Traverse. On the eastern side of the top bollard, abseil off the double ring bolt belay, 10m down to the start of the tyrolean. Clip into the belay and chain. Thread the Tryoloen then climber 1 traverses before reversing the rig and bringing the second climber across. Please read the instructions on Tyrolean below.

2. 30m (20) 13 Bolts. From the belay, climb the overhanging face tending left. Mantel onto the lower angle wall (crux) then climb the slabs on edges and knobs.

3. 30m (20) 10 Bolts. Up the knobby little headwall then traverse right into the corner. Climb the short headwall and traverse back left at the top and mantel onto slab. Climb the slab up to the ledge and DBC belay.

4. 25m (18) 8 Bolts. Climb straight up past 2 bolts then traverse left. Continue climbing and traversing left up the low angle head wall all the way to the top and DBC belay.

Descent is 4 abseil back down the route. The last abseil is 50m to the ground.

The smaller front pinnacle. From the base of Hihi scramble up the hill to a small platform at the base of the slab.

1. 40m (21) 14 Bolts. Scramble up slab to the left facing corer. Start in corner till 1st bolt then move onto wall. Climb steep face (21), at 5th bolt you can either go, right around bulge (19), or continue straight up (21). Continue past intermediate abseil station and climb shallow groove above on small nubbins and edges. A sustained pitch.

2. 20m (18) 6 Bolts. More about the destination than the climbing. From the belay to the DBC belay continue up and right through the garden to the top of the pinnacle to DBC Belay. Abseil Back down line or do Tahi Rua Tryolean

Tahi, Rua(21,Ty,18,21,16) 120m A Tyrolean traverse from the Tahi pinnacle across to the HiHi pinnacle.

1. 40m (21) 14 Bolts. Climb the first pitch of Tahi.

2. 15m (Tyrolean). From the first Belay ledge of Tahi. Move left along the chain to the Tyrolean-traverse pull cord. Set up the Tyrolean (see instructions below). This Tyrolean is on an incline so I strongly recommend taking a shunt or jumar to haul you up the last section.

3. 15m (18) 4 Bolts. (10m). Climb and traverse up the left ledge system to DBC belay and large grassy ledge. 4 30m (21) 12 Bolts. Climb up the right tending arete until you get to the large low angle ramp on the right of the arete.. Climb ramp and head wall past 6 bolts until you get to the roof. Traverse left around the roof and up to DBC belay.

4. 20m (18) 6 Bolts. (10m). Climb and traverse up the left ledge system till you get to the 4th pitch of Hihi, climb this to top of the pinnacle. Cliff Ellery, Jess Dobson & Rachael Mayne. Sep/2022

This route routes breaks through the overhang above the pipeline at the last bend before the bridge. Aid the overhang using 2 bolts. Once a second overhang is reached climb directly up on good gear. Follow grooves and slabs by the easiest line until you can move left onto a ledge. This is shared with the top of the second pitch of Berkeley Square.

P1: Aid through same overhang as Nightingale, then move left for 7m under the big roof until a belay stance with a bolt and good wire. P2: Climb up and slightly right for 3m then move up and right on slab on top of the second overhang. Continue up groove on right and ledges to the top of Nightingale. Double bolt belay. P3: Climb out left to the rib and swing round onto slab. Climb the slab the slab to its highest point keeping to the cleanest rock. Double bolt belay. P4: Not generally climbed now but it is possible to climb further slabs up and right. Belay and descend from pine trees.

Climb the steep groove past 2 bolts and then the arête starting from the jug on the left. Climb mostly on the right of the arête from the jug past the next few bolts to where the climbing eases back to big holds. Follow your nose through the overhanging section to the belay ledge. Avoid trying to sneak around the first tricky section by grovelling up the dirty groove on the right as it is also loose (significantly easier, possibly grade 19 if the arete is avoided by climbing the groove).

Starts 20m left of the first 2 routes. It is an unpleasant dirty route starting at an obvious groove system with a hanging iron spike. Climb to the iron spike and continue in the groove, digging out gear placements as you go. Join Shadowlands belay ledge. Used to be aided past the spike (14/A1) and continued to the top of the cliff. May be harder than the grade depending on how dirty it is.

Starting upstream from the bridge, almost at water level on a blocky buttress. Climb 8m to loose ledges. Head up the groove above past a peg (crux) until you can step right onto the rib. Climb easy ground to the top. Descend back down bushy gully on the right until a sing abseil will reach the ground. This description is old and needs updating.

The obvious high-level rib overlooking the large pool upstream. It is past the old mine workings where the gorge narrows. Cross stream and head up through bush to the right of the rib. Step left for 3m until a small cave is reached. Climb out of the cave and follow a shallow corner past a peg until you can step right to easier ground. Descent via abseil. This description is old and needs updating.

Climbs the left hand end of the buttress. Climb crack up to small tree. Step right onto rib and continue onto face of buttress to a small ledge. Continue up rib to good belay ledge. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Starts at the base of the overhanging rib a few meters right of Steerpike. Climb the rib direct. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

This route is found above 'Steerpike'. Climb the left hand crack up through a notch at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Found beside 'Commencement Crack', leads up the slab finishing at the same notch. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

A long rib climb set behind the Steer Pike, right of Shield and Back of Beyond. P1: Start left of rib, move onto rib and continue to foot of steep section. Climb onto small ledge then sloping ledge above, continue up through small groove to belay ledges. P2 starts after a short bush bash. P2: Bridge the groove and pull through the bulge (crux), move right on sloping ledges to steep broken section, finishing on good holds. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Climbs the steep wall across the gully from the China Wall. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Climb the featured rock 2m left of the direct start to Mad Carew. Turn the overlap on the left and follow good holds on the slab to the rings.

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

Starts 20m left of the other Skyline Buttress climbs. Climb into the scoop below and right of the hanging fang. Not much gear till the fang. Climb around to the left of the overhang and up the cracks to rings at the second ledge. A set of wires and cams to #4 is useful.

Climb up the slab and into the right facing corner. Awaiting info to update the bolter and FA.

5m left of Shelob the route climbs up broken ground to the slab, up the slab and then follows the streak of light rock.

A bit winding and overgrown but still a fun outing that can be done in 2 or 3 pitches. Climb the left leaning corner for 10m before making a traverse left around a corner. There is an old rusty piton above to show the way up the wall to a belay (small trees) below the overhangs. Traverse right to the large ledge common with Shelob and then up from the left end of the ledge to the large sloping ledge and bolt belay.

Climb the first 10m of Windfall but carry on directly up at the first bolt on the face to the right of the shallow corner. Nice moves lead to the good ledge. Climb past 2 bolts through a steep section between Shelob and Windfall to the rings.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

Start as for Shelob to the ledge then step right and climb the groove and directly through a steeper bulge. Finish at the Shelob belay or continue to the top, climbing the arete. This 2nd pitch was bolted after originally being led on very sketchy gear in the 90's.

Climbs the skyline ridge by the easiest line commencing to the right of Shelob. Descent is by abseil. Now very overgrown and difficult to follow.

This climb may be lost to history

Starts level with and across the gully from the pine tree at the top of Shelob. Pitch 1, 15m: Climb the rib for 3m to a groove on the right. Climb the groove, step left at the top and climb up to a tree belay on the right. Pitch 2, 20m: Move left 2m to an in situ peg. With its aid gain the steep rib on the left. An extra sling used on a spike on the rib has since been eliminated. Climb the pleasant exposed rib more easily to a tree belay. Descend by abseil.

The crack above the Skyline Buttress, prominent from the bridge.

From the Gambatagwa belay bolt continue on the ledge until you are left of the large triangular overhang. Climb up and slanting right, turning the overhang on the left. Follow the crack until a move right can be made to a small ledge. Bolted belay here. The second pitch needs cleaning...

About 8m down and right of Bishop's Rib. [1] Up the V-groove with an obvious small tree in it (that's your protection). Step right to the rib then up to belay tree and ledge. [2] Climb the wall below the flake, then step right and up the rib to ledges and trees.

Begin betweem Flytrap and Mantrap then move left to the grooves betweem Flytrap and Bishop's Rib. [1]Up the wall to the left of the flake, then the V-groove above. Traverse left above the overhang to join the rib of Flytrap. [2] Left from the belay and up the groove on the left, left through a white streak past a very old peg. Out to the rib on the right and up an open-book corner and the wall above (crux). Move left into the top of Bishop's Rib. Descend down Bishop's Rib.

Climb the flake and shallow groove past an old peg to a tree belay. Or climb the groove from the right. [2] Step right from the belay and climb the wall left of the nose to gain a small ledge. Move left and up to belay ledges. [3] Traverse right and up a bushy groove, move out onto the rib and climb it to a ledge and tree belay.

The left most route on the wall. Some technical moves for the grade past the first few bolts followed by easier climbing to the sloping ledge.

2nd pitch to Ryobe or join both for a nice long pitch. Fantastic climbing up the steep face with regular rest possibilities.

Gain the start of the route by abseiling from the Shadowfax belay down the wall below or from Ryobe scramble diagonally down the bushy ledge. Climb the upward slanting weakness. Sustained. Ends at the belay for Shadowfax.

This climb may be lost to history

Climbs the wall left of the 1st pitch of the China Wall Climb, and finishes up the steep wall left of its 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1, 25m: Start from the gully between China Wall and The Peeler. Climb the gully for l0m to a ponga tree from which a traverse can be made horizontally right to join the ramp of China Wall. Belay near the top of the ramp, where a traverse line can be seen leading diagonally right.

Pitch 2, 25m: Traverse diagonally right to a peg in situ (as for China Wall). Then trend left to a large spike runner. Continue up the steep wall, moving right to a crack then back left to finish at the high point of the wall. Descend by a 45m abseil or by track round to the Back of Beyond.

This used to climb the crack as for Shadowfax first pitch and continue up ledges for 2 further pitches to the top.

Climb past piton to good crack. The crack leads to ledge with bolts and old pitons.

Scramble up as for shadowfax to where that climb traverses right. Clip the bolt and climb on small holds directly to the break above (crux). Continue on good holds and interesting rock to the belay ledge and bolts.

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

Originally climbed from the top of the first pitch of 'Shadowfax' but best done as a long pitch using what was known as 'The Twist' as a direct start. Joins the Shiny Goblins belay. A great route with a lot of climbing and a couple of technical cruxes.

Originally done as a first pitch to 'Rebels and Outcasts', climbers now always join both in a long pitch and the two together are known as 'Rebels and Outcasts'

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

One of the North Islands best 22's. Do it as one pitch with 'That summer'(need a 70m rope). Nearing the top of the cliff carry on up the corner (medium cams/large wires) for the original finish or step left (bolt) and climb the arête for a fully sport route.

Starts below and right of 'That Summer/Shiny Goblins'. Originally climbed as 2 pitches, the numerous old pitons were replaced by bolts in 2021 and now generally done in 1 long pitch. At the ledge below Shiny Goblins is a single bolt to protect the belayer. From here climb easily up the slab with a mixture of bolts and trad gear. Get into the groove above and protect the crux with good small gear. Continue up the groove until it blanks out where a move left onto a ledge shared with 'Shiny Goblins' can be made. Go staight up the short arete and to the belay rings on the right.

Branches off right halfway up 'Gambatagwa'

Couple metres obove where 'Gollum' branches off 'Gambatagwa' this climb branches off right.

A great multi-pitch training climb. On the far left of the Shield.

Left side of the Shield Slab

Shallow groove right of Route 1

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

Climb up to small cave then move left and up. 10m right of the last climbs, could do with a clean.

Wall right of the cave route (route 3)

The rib directly behind 'The Shield' wall P1: Ascend the rib to the pine tree. P2: From the tree climb the rib right to bushier but easier ground. Descend the gully on the left. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The steep wall over-looking the gully between the Shield and Prelude provides a most delightful moderate route, Find the single jug at the foot of the wall and follow good holds to the top, finishing near the top of Back of Beyond. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The rib at the top of the gully between the Shield and Prelude. It is difficult to arrange a good belay at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Heads up the red wall left of the arete of 'Prelude'.

From the bottom of 'Shade of things to come', follow the easy ledge out right to a shallow corner. Climb to the big ledge and gain the arete on the right. Climb the arete on good gear to the belay ledge. The second pitch needs to be cleaned...but if you are keen, from the belay climb to the large ledge above, to a groove out left and up this to the top of the buttress.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.