Routes in Coromandel Peninsula

The left hand side of the face above the sand.

Traverse the boulder, keeping as low as possible.

Climb the slab directly.

The slabby arete.

Steep - deep sit start up the rails and slopes.

The slab just to the right of The Spider.

The left of the face on the side of the boulder facing downstream with some good holds. Descent down the back.

Start off good holds, to the top.

RH undercling and LH far left to stand holds.

Crimps and pinches to slopey mantle right of the arete.

Up the guts - stab and over. Smooth.

Traverse the boulder from the furthermost right hand holds to the left arete, just above the ground. Dropping down to bum-drag the crux drops a V grade or two.

RHS to matchstick that joins that problem with the left hand on the next hold from the incut. Better than the direct.

Follow the line of least resistance up the right hand side of the boulder, making use of the deep incut, topping out to the tree, with it on your right. The sit start from side-pulls does not add to the grade.

Follow the hair-line crack, mainly on its left hand side. Move right at the top to finish as for Matchstick. The sit start from side-pulls does not add to the grade.

Squeeze job up the line of the water streak which appears after rain and takes a few days to dry, to finish on great jugs. Contrived as shares the good hold with Stalag 13.

The left-most line of a couple of slopey edges then crimp edges, directly above the obvious crux of the traverse. Move right (slopey) to finish on the awesome jugs and gingerly into the bush. Harder than it looks.

The right hand staircase.

About the centre of the upstream side.

The left hand side of the boulder with a bad landing.

The traverse then up. Bad landing on the left side.

Looks interesting but the landing is bad and the rock very polished by the river! Not recommended.

Brilliant. At the far right-hand end of the boulder, in the bush. Starts of the river bank. Pro: #1 ballnut, #2 RP, #2 ballnut, none of which is inspiring (R/X rating). After the first moves, move right to place the first pro (#1 ballnut, RP)

Perhaps best top-roped off trees behind the boulder: head right and then up and around to the back where rata vines/roots provide access.

The cleanish, partially brushed line up the centre of the face, left of computation. A CLOSED PROJECT

The cleanish, partially brushed line up the centre of the face, left of computation. A CLOSED PROJECT

Shallow water solo.

Up the left side of the over hang.

Don't fall. The landing is in less than a meter of water with slippery and irregular rocks.

The fun, low level girdle traverse, just above the water mostly, at Hoffmans Pool on OKish banded rock (the occasional flakey edge or pocket). Step down when it gets too shallow on the far right side, if need be. Easiest and most convenient to cross to up-stream.

Climb the easy groove directly below the bomb launch spot, stepping right (crux) at the top.