Routes in Rumney

'Dark Star' into end of 'Paradox'

Needs traditional protection between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Shares much of 'Retrospade'

Now Bolted

7 bolts to LO

Linkup of Mercury and Venus

Start up the easy slab to the first bolt, then pull over the steep bulge to flatter section, move right, then up the steep dark face to the finish.

Left-most bolt line up the left side of the gully. Start a bit right of the first bolt -- the direct start is much harder.

Fun climbing up the right-hand pair of easy routes up the left-side of the gully.

Climb the arete up the back of the gully. Run-out for the easy climbing at the start, but gets steep for the finish. (5.8+)

Climb the thin face on the right wall of the gully, to anchors shared with "The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge".

Follow the ridge line along the right side of the gully. Shares anchors with "Preppy's Crack".

Climb the broken crack up and right behind the "Wimpy-Gilman Ridge". Finish on the anchors for "Rainbow".

Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock.

Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in.

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge.

2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson".

Bouldery start to easier finish.

Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner.

The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges.

Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay.

Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top.