Routen in Rumney

Variation of Waimea that splits right to trad.

Extension of Waimea

Linkup of Mr. Gerbick into Muscle Beach

Holds have broken since the first ascent.

Also climbed as V14 high ball.

Contraction of 'Urban Surfer'

Linkup of 'Barracuda' into 'Urban Surfer'

Start on a bit of a dirt ledge up and left of the main base at "Clippity Do Dah". A bit run-out on the (short) first pitch. Better climbing and gear for the 2nd pitch.

Both pitches one and three are short -- either could be combined with pitch 2.

1. climb up and over an overlap to a belay.

2. climb the obvious crack to a prominent pine tree for the belay.

3. finish up the easy slab above to a tree belay at the top.

Two pitches that can be done in one pitch of some of the easiest climbing you'll do all day. The view from the top can't be beat, though, and is worth the little jaunt. Two lowers are needed, however, or walk off to the left down a forested trail.

Go to Jimmy left, and then keep going left. You'll reach some big, clean slabs that seem to go on for days. The line of bolts starts from the lowest point on the wall and travels basically straight up from there. Bolts are spaced far apart, as the easy slab climbing could be done in running shoes. Stone is grippy and the path goes over some bulgy bits to the top. Fantastic views!!

This easy slab climb is squeezed between 'Clippity Do Dah' and 'Lady and the Tramp'.

1. Start up the clean slab just right of 'Clippity Do Dah', as it is too dirty straight up the middle. A trad anchor can be made in the gully between the two bolted anchors.

2. Continue up the Gully to the plateau at the top. You can borrow the anchor of 'Lady and the Tramp' or build an anchor with one of the large trees at the top.

Walk off to the left, or rap down but be aware a single 60 m rope may not get you all the way to the bottom from the mid station anchors.

Look for the thin clean gap in the moss/dirt/trees right of "Clippity Do Dah", and follow the bolts upwards. Shares final anchors with "Clippity Do Dah", too.

Climb the slabs to the right, passing a bunch of trees. As of spring 2012, at least the lower slabs are a dirty and moss- and pine-needle- covered mess.

Climb the right-leaning arete to the anchors for "Things as They Are" anchors (the 2nd anchors you reach).

Climb the steep left-facing corner.

Climb the right leaning hand crack in a series of corners. Often dirty.

First bolt line right of the corners at the back of the alcove.

A hard start to easier climbing above.

Starts below a large chunk of white quartz visible near the top of the cliff, and climbs over this quartz.

Take the left line of bolts at the start shared with "Piece of Cake".

Shares the start with "Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten", then goes right.

Climb thin edges in a groove at the start (crux), then up a left-leaning edge, pull over onto the slab, and scamper easily to the anchors.

Climb the slab to, then up the obvious left-facing chimney in the middle of the cliff. Well (if not over-) bolted.

On the far right side of Jimmy, but to the left of Lonesome Dove (blunt arret). Start up the slab to some tricky moves that allow you to gain the finger crack. Follow the crack up, using some sweet layback moves over a bulge at the top that will leave you feeling quite exposed.

Watch out that your rope doesn't get stuck in the finger crack near the top.

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

Link-up from Keel Hauled to Land Ho