Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bakery Wall | |||||
5.8 G | Mr Mailman
Erstbegehung: Lee Hansche & Torie Kidd, Apr 2019 | 8m | |||
5.11a | Sport Moves
Erstbegehung: Scott Stevenson, 1993 | ||||
5.10a | Golden Gloves
Erstbegehung: Alan Cattabriga, 1993 | ||||
5.10d | Rookie Sensation
Erstbegehung: Scott Stevenson, 1993 | ||||
The Parking Lot Wall | |||||
5.8 | Shemp Lives
Often wet. Has a large down/right facing corner -- climb up easyish ground, then move left around the corner and up. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2004 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.7 | Dead Sea Equestrian
Often wet. Climb a series of nice flakes up the usually wet rock. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2000 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★ Red Sea Pedestrian
Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 1998 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★ Squeeze My Lemon
Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's". Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry. Erstbegehung: Cliff Mask & Tim, 2000 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.7 | ★ Glory Jean's
Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors. Erstbegehung: Mark Sprague, 1996 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.6 | ★ Easily Amused
Goes up 3 bolts to anchors beside trees. The bolts that continue above the anchor are "Rubicon". Erstbegehung: Chris Smith, 1996 | 10m, 3 | |||
5.10b | Rubicon
Extension of "Easily Amused". Can be done as a 2nd pitch, but also easily done in a single push clipping one of the bolts of the Easily Amused anchors along the way. Erstbegehung: Jim Cullen, 2009 | 15m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★ Easily Aroused
Erstbegehung: Tim Kemple Sr., 2001 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.7 | ★ Rise And Shine
Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors. Erstbegehung: Ward Smith, 1996 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Egg McMeadows
| 15m, 5 | |||
5.4 R | Centerfold
Climb the (usually wet) left ascending crack/gully. | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Chloe's Breakfast Special
Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area. Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section. Erstbegehung: Dave Quinn, 1997 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Quinn/Callaghan Route
Climb up the almost always wet, but low-angle rock left of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" ascends to a high first bolt, then up the great climbing up the steep face above. Another long route for the Parking Lot wall. Erstbegehung: Dave Quinn & Christine Callaghan, 2003 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.7 | ★ Shealyn's Way
Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet. | 33m, 11 | |||
5.2 | A Week With Pete
Climb the easy-angled jug-haul up the face to the right of the chimney that "Shealyn's Way" climbs. | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Espresso
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.11c | ★ 100% Columbian
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.10b | ★ Juan Valdez
Climb up to, left, and around the obvious left-edged flake. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.6 | ★ Cafe' au Lait
Up the blocky corner to an obvious chimney, then stem up the chimney to the anchors. Yes, the fun of a bolted chimney! | 24m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★ Mr. Coffee
| 18m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★ Percolator
Right-most climb at the Parking Lot Wall -- from the right-most trail from the parking, if you turn right instead of going to the main section, you'll go up steps that lead directly to the base of this route. Often wet. In Ward Smith's (2009) book as 5.5, but the 5.7 grade listed here seems more reasonable. | 15m, 5 | |||
The Parking Lot Wall The Drainage | |||||
V1 | The Road Not Taken
| ||||
The Parking Lot Wall The Arrow Head Boulder | |||||
V0 | Sailors Beware
Erstbegehung: Tim Armstrong | ||||
The Meadows Apocalypse Walls | |||||
5.6 R | They Come and They Go
Erstbegehung: Bradley White & Ed Hawes, 2010 | 35m, 2, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Supreme Onion Sacrifice
Erstbegehung: Jeff Fongemie, 1992 | 18m, 5 | |||
WI3 - 4 | Apocalypse Left
| ||||
5.7 | Serenity Now
Erstbegehung: Chris Smith, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Apocalypse Later
Erstbegehung: Greg McCausland, 1988 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.12d | Bad Seed
Erstbegehung: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.13a | Whitey's Start
Direct start to Bad Seed | ||||
5.12c | ★★ Good Earth
Erstbegehung: Tom Georgivitz & John Georgivitz, 2004 | 24m, 8 | |||
WI3- | Parallel Gully
| ||||
5.4 | Kate's Arete
Erstbegehung: Kate Lincoln, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Captain Fingers
Erstbegehung: Nick Yardley, 1987 | 12m, 4 | |||
WI4+ | Private Eye
Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 1991 | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Corporal Punishment
Erstbegehung: Chris Smith, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
The Meadows No Money Down Area | |||||
5.10a/b | ★ Repossession
The far left end of the wall. Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out. Erstbegehung: Dave Quinn, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12a/b | ★ The Payment Plan
Erstbegehung: Dave Quinn, 2004 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ No Money Down
Erstbegehung: Tom Armstrong, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.11a/b | ★ Student Loan
Erstbegehung: Kasia Weglarz & Mark Sprague, 2004 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ The Coveted
After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear. Erstbegehung: Mack Johnson, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★ Thou Shalt Not Covet
Partial retrobolt of 'The Coveted'. Break right at the top. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Mr. Popular
Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier. Erstbegehung: Ed Esmond, 2000 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★ False Modesty
Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 1989 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Dung Beetle
Look for a fairly obvious low ledge. Climb onto this, then up the bolt line above. Tackling bulge below anchors on the left would be closer to 5.9+. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2002 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Easy Terms
Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right. Go up the slab. Erstbegehung: Tom Armstrong, 1987 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising
Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 1988 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden
This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully. Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2001 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.8 | ★ New Route
Dunno which route in the 2009 guide book is "New Route" -- the ascents with dates were in 2004, so likely this has got a name, now. | ||||
The Meadows The Beginner's Wall | |||||
5.4/5 | ★ Mom's Pancake
Start in the low-angle corner and climb the easy face just to the corner's left, finishing with a stem across below the anchors. (A bit run-out at the top for a 5.4 leader.) Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2003 | 14m, 4 | |||
5.8/9 | ★★ Hippos on Parade
Sanierung: Jim Shimberg Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg Erstbegehung: Glen Cilley, 1989 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.9 R | ★★ Attack of Life
This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade". Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar. Erstbegehung: Glen Cilley, 1989 | 15m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lies And Propaganda
Erstbegehung: Tom Armstrong, 1987 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.13a | ★ The Move
Erstbegehung: Matt Keefe, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Cold Turkey
Erstbegehung: Chris Smith, 1996 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Bolt Line
Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.) Erstbegehung: Bradley White, 1985 | 24m, 8 | |||
5.5 | ★ Beginner's Route
Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start. | ||||
5.10c | ★ Bonehead Roof
Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 1989 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.10b PG13 | ★ Med Dose Madness
Erstbegehung: Jon Barker, 2002 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ Tunnel Zone
A wandering route that is not climbed anymore. Erstbegehung: Chris Hassig, 1975 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Misdemeanor
Now a sport route Erstbegehung: Alan Cattabriga, 1988 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.10a | ★ Rhino Bucket
Erstbegehung: Glen Cilley, 1994 | 24m, 8 | |||
The Meadows Holderness Buttress | |||||
5.11c | ★★ White Rhino
Erstbegehung: Ward Smith, 1997 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Hope For Movement
Erstbegehung: Duncan McCallum, 1988 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu
Erstbegehung: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 33m, 11 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Holderness School Corner
The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs. Erstbegehung: Chris Hassig, 1975 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Holderness Arête
Erstbegehung: Tom Armstrong, 1988 | 21m, 7 | |||
5.10a 5.10 | ★★ Holderness Finish
Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear. Erstbegehung: Tom Armstrong, 1989 | 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Idiots Deluxe
Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2002 | 26m, 10 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Curly for President
9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets. Erstbegehung: Jim Shimberg, 2003 | 27m, 9 | |||
The Meadows Escape From Reality Roof | |||||
V5 | Dookie in the Ball Pit
Erstbegehung: Eli Buzzell, 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | Going Deeper
Erstbegehung: Eli Buzzell, 2020 | 3m | |||
V8 | Choss is Reality
Erstbegehung: Todd Bradley | 5m | |||
V9/10 | Fighting the Flaws of Reality
Erstbegehung: Brad Fauteux | 5m | |||
V9 | Laws of Gravity
Erstbegehung: Brad Fauteux, 2018 | 6m | |||
V10 | Fighting the Laws of Gravity
Erstbegehung: Brad Fauteux | 6m | |||
V8/9 | Escape From Reality Direct
| ||||
V10/11 | Escape From Reality
Erstbegehung: Todd Bradlee | 6m | |||
V6 | Caught in a Landslide
Erstbegehung: Brad Fauteux | 6m | |||
V2/3 | Easy Come, Easy Go
Erstbegehung: Brad Fauteux | 3m | |||
G Spot | |||||
5.9 | Drip of Fools
Erstbegehung: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | ||||
5.6 | G-Wiz
Erstbegehung: Lee Hansche | ||||
5.7 | Sex Ed
Erstbegehung: Torie Kidd | 12m, 5 | |||
5.7 | Kagels and Locks
Erstbegehung: Dean Wishart, 2000 | ||||
5.7 | Bumpin the Gate
Erstbegehung: Fred Price, 2001 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Layback and Relax
Erstbegehung: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | ||||
5.11a | ★ Drillin in My Dreams
Erstbegehung: Fred Price, 2001 | 6 | |||
5.8 | ★ She Goes Both Ways
Erstbegehung: Dean Wishart, 2002 | ||||
5.11a | ★ Likken Liken
Erstbegehung: Tim Kemple Sr., 2000 | 3 | |||
New Wave Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Air And Pleasant Danger
Erstbegehung: Ed Esmond, 1998 | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Short Wave
Erstbegehung: Chris Smith, 1998 | 4 | |||
5.11c | ★ Barking Spiders
Erstbegehung: Ted Hammond, 1988 | 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Weevil Kneivel
Erstbegehung: Mark Sprague, 1998 | 8 | |||
5.13a | Roaring Silence
Erstbegehung: Ward Smith, 1999 | 7 | |||
5.11c | ★ Sally's Alley
Erstbegehung: Ted Hammond, 1986 | 15m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★ Black Dog Crack
Erstbegehung: Bradley White, 1986 | 5 |