Routen in Africa für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Halfway up the ascent gully on the left hand side there is a smaller gully in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

Start on the Southeast side of the mountain at a large orange flake.

Pitch 1 Starts at 3m flake crack which leads up to a groove. Up groove to belay on grass ledge. Short pitch with good view of following party at the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 Along grass ledge to prominent chimney on right, climb chimney to chock stone at crest. Chimney can easily be soloed. A fun variation exists on the face of the tower which allows for some fun and exposed moves. Be aware of loose choss. Especially since there will most likely be local children watching from below.

Pitch 3 Up awkward corner above to platform below summit block. Or easier rising traverse to left then up. Climb left-hand arête to summit. Or as 'North Face Route' Descend the same way you come up, or use the bolted anchor to abseil to a ledge with a large tree and cactus. A 70 meter rope will allow for a single abseil to the bottom, or a 60 meter rope will require re-rigging at the tree. Use good rope practices while rappelling and avoid getting your rope lodge in any slots during retrieval.

Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.

1. (6) Scramble up block. On top of the block find a corner with an overhang 5m up.

2. (11) Climb up the corner on the left face below the overhang. Traverse left around corner and up on good holds into a chimney above. About 5m into the chimney is a good block-belay.

3. (11) Continue up chimney to a large ledge. Crux has good holds and is well protected with a #3 C4 SLCD.

4. (9) Move around the corner on the extreme right hand side of the large ledge, from this point climbing continues up on good holds with a few steep moves in-between.

5. (8) Continue up until climbing becomes a scramble.

Variations:

(Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter)

Start as for FNJ, continue traversing left beneath the steep rock, continue up the recess between the two major faces, stance where necessary and follow your nose to the top up easy rock.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Up to bolt then right to share chains of Loula

Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's southern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders).

1. 18m (D) Commence on grey face 90m to right of frontal climb. Vertical 4m, horizontal 2. 10m to chimney, vertila 4m.

2. 9m (E2) Traverse 90m right around corner into deep chimney. Up chimney under chockstone.

3. 33m (D) Proceed vertically up 24m over loose stone and grass. Enter crack on right-hand face facing south, finishing on nose with large boulder, 9m.

4. 20m (D) Up slightly overhung face then right under pronounced overhang.

5. 11m (D) Climb up to boulder then right and up vertical sandstone with good handholds.

Proceed up gully to neck between Zimbabwe and the main escarpment.

Approximately 1.5km north of Zimbabwe buttress there is a long diagonal cleft (gully). The climb starts about 350m to the right of this diagonal cleft beneath the dome. 17m (D) Left of red corner with pronounced overhang in crack, climb under and behind chockstone.

1. 15m (E2) Straddle up corner.

2. 20m (E2) Follow crack to left of cone-shaped grey face.

3. 21m (D) Traverse 33m to left on grass. Commence vertically under overhang, go right 2m and then up over corner.

4. 18m (D) Up chimney under chockstone.

5. Easy scramble up long gully. Finish at back of arete.

Descent: Proceed into main gully and down as far as waterfall over rockbands. Continue around left (facing mountain).

Climb the obvious crack about 2m to the left of Craic, trending left at the top to the top-anchors of Spin-Aréte.

The climb starts on the opposite side of the buttress from Waterspout. Walk around the buttress, in the direction of the river, and the climb is in the back of an open book. Climb the obvious crack in the bushy corner, ending in a notch on top of the buttress. Waterspout's top anchors can be used for a belay, but are not well placed to be used for top-roping.

Start to the right of Craic, climbing the easy bulgy face into a short open book. Exit left onto a ramp and scramble up to the tree above Incy Wincy Spider.

Go up the large break tending leftward away from the central tree, when you get to a thick vine climb straight up on the right hand side of it.

Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.

1. 15m 10 Climb right-hand side of grey slab to ledge. Belay in corner as for ONE-EYED JACK

2. 20m 11 Traverse right across a face to a recess and a crack system (two small trees). Climb the right-hand crack and face to the top.

Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.

1. [11] 35m

   Ascend 10m to tree, then climb over bulge. Traverse left for 6m then move straight small corner to stance.

2. [9] 30m

   Climb up vertical wall above on good holds.

The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.

1. 18m 9 From the beacon work up in the recess towards the left then traverse right over the top of the recess, thence upwards to the right towards the crack immediately above the cave. This crack is covered with aloes and a stance on a small ledge is found on the edge of these aloes almost in the crack.

2. 18m 11 From the stance in the crack step to left thence vertically upwards over good sound rock to a large sloping ledge.

3. 18m 8 This section is obvious and a number of easy alternatives present themselves. The most vertical is the best.

4. 25m 8 Work up to the final rock slope on the right or left of an overhanging rock immediately above the 'cave crack'.

Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches.

Start on the sloping wall about 5m to the left of 'Hanging Boulder'.

1. 25m 10 Ascend bearing slightly right, parallel with a groove, to a small ledge that is actually the top of a large flake in the ridge overlooking the HANGING BOULDER gully (small stance).

2. 15m 11 From the top of the flake ascend vertically keeping slightly to the left to a large ledge.

3. 12m 8 Ascend vertically to the big ledge with boulder and thus immediately beneath the overhang that forms the top of the 'frame'.

4. 12m 8 Descend 6m to a ledge and traverse to the right along a narrow extension of this into the top right-hand corner of the frame. Traverse along a ledge around the corner and up to the final stance.

The start is easily located by reference to a prominent crack leading up to overhanging rocks, which are split and appear to be blocked by aloes. The climb follows the crack in two 9 pitches to a point just below the overhanging rock on the right, then traverses outward, and down to a point about 10m to the right of the crack. From here the route goes vertically upwards.

An alternative route opened by T. Louw and W. Curle goes straight up the crack through the split overhang. (10)

Not a particularly inviting climb but longer than others in the area. Numerous belays. Starts 5 - 10m left of 'Zig Zag'.

1. 15m 9 Choose a route up the buttress to a large rock split off the corner.

2. 22m 10 Diagonally up to the right inside the frame to a recess above some aloes 12m, then 9m up.

3. 12m 11 Traverse left onto the nose and up to a large tree which marks the junction of to route with RACK ROUTE.

4. 22m 9 Up the chimney for 3m onto a chockstone. Traverse right onto the face or into next gully. Climb 12m up until a small overhang is reached. A scramble takes one off the climb.

May commence at the same point as 'Prometheus' but a point 10m up a slope to the left marks the usual start.

1. 15m 9 Up in the recess on left of sloping face.

2. 12m 10 Traverse right to a point directly above the start of 'Prometheus'.

3. 25m 10 Up 9m and traverse left to edge of crack then vertically up to large tree which is point of junction with 'Prometheus'.

4. 22m 9 Work over to left below overhang then up to easier rock to summit.

Starts a few meters to left of 'Other Kingdom' on the ridge instead of recess and overlaps part of the first pitch of that climb. The route goes straight up from that point passing to the left of the large clump of aloes referred to in the second pitch of 'Other Kingdom'. The first two pitches are of 10 standard and face climbing is the main feature.

Start in main descent gully to the right of large cave seen 10m above.

1. 40m 11 Climb straight up the arete to the top (A difficult move at the start, a grade 15 bulging crack, can be avoided if desired - 11).

45m right of 'Tower Of Pisa' and 4-5m left of 'No Highway'.

1. 35m 11 Climb diagonally left from some large blocks to a defined recess. Continue up the recess for 25m to a small overhang, step over right and up to a ledge. Traverse right for 3-4m and up to next ledge below a wall.

2. 25m 11 Step up and traverse diagonally right across the wall to the edge and arete. Continue up the arete keeping left and aiming for some blocks on top.

Note: A very pleasant climb on good rock.

The climb takes a route up a giant V-shaped recess 18m left of 'Tower Of Pisa' .

1. 40m 9 Climb straight up recess.

2. 25m 10 Move left and up a step as for the chimney. Traverse left to another step. Continue traversing left to an edge. Continue moving left across small open books to easy ground. Advisable to belay here.

3. ?m 8 Continue to climb up diagonally left on grade 8 rock to top.

Variation:

2 25m 13 Continue up the chimney above unstable rock to a ledge. Traverse, left for 5m and continue up the ledge on loose rock. (This pitch is not recommended.)

Starts at the foot of the ridge at the lowest point to the east of the western descent gully.

1. 30m 10 Start from the obvious tree and climb up slightly left of the ridge. At 25m move left and mantle shelf onto a sloping ledge. Continue up the wall to belay.

2. 25m 9 Step right and climb directly to the top over a series of large steps.

Note: The party was feeling its age.

Starts at top of grass slope about 45m to left of broken, overhanging and cave-ridden blackish rock.

1. 30m 8 From start bear left over rock to prominent grass ledge.

2. 30m 3 Traverse along grass ledge to right 30m to base of ridge forming western bounds of a recess below brownish broken overhangs.

3. 25m 10 Bear over to face on right then work back to left across recess to ridge above starting point.

4. 25m 9 Traverse right across recess and below brown overhangs to crack on right of overhangs.

5. 25m 9 Vertically up 9m then traverse left to top of overhangs.

Note: Route involves a considerable amount of traversing.

A clearly defined cleft or crack extending the whole height of the krantz and about 45m to left of start of 'Rheebok Crag'. There is a clump of three trees - the only ones in the vicinity - at the top of the slope to the right of the cleft.

1. 18m 8 Up ridge to left of recess leading to grass ledge.

2. 25m 10 Original route proceeds straight up cleft on right but a more interesting variation is to start on face to left of cleft. The first 5m involves a difficult section thence easing off on a route which bears to right and joins the cleft.

3. 18m 9 Climb on left ridge of cleft up to a tree where cleft widens out into a crack forming a sort of cave.

4. 18m 8 Chimney work up interior to cleft.

The first pitch is the same as that for 'Aloe Cleft', but when the grass ledge is reached, traverse left to a rock buttress about 6m high.

1. 18m 8 As for 'Aloe Cleft'.

2. 25m 10 Up on right of buttress then bear right through a broken overhanging section to easier rock above.

3. 22m 9 Bear left to an adequate stance on grassy ledge directly above buttress.

4. 25m 8 An obvious route direct to top.

Variation: An alternative route from the top buttress may be taken for the second pitch. This goes up a face to left of the route described, is grade 9 and joins up at the grass ledge.

The start of this climb may be recognised by a huge wedge-shaped rook near the top of the krantz which appears to be stuck in a recess formed by a face on its right and an overhanging buttress on its left. This feature is 100 - 150m left of 'Aloe Cleft'.

1. 18m 7 Scramble up easy grey face to grass ledge.

2. 28m 10 Ascend grey face to right of buttress immediately below wedge-shaped rook at top of climb. This route goes up just to right of a recess formed between buttress and face.

3. 25m 10 Traverse right 12m then up inclining to right making for stance be low crack.

4. 12m 9 Up in recess or crack to a stance below overhanging block on right of wedge-shaped rock previously referred to and on the same level as its base.

5. 12m 9 To right around block into recess then straight up.

Variations: These variations are of like standard to the second and final pitches. Instead of the last 2 pitches, climb prominent white ridge to the right.

Starting almost in the gully, this climb follows an almost direct line over the grass ledge and straight to the summit. The start from the grass ledge is cairned.

Immediately to right of 'Four Man Gully' the crag is steep and foreboding. Further to right the upper section of the face lies back in the form of a bay or large recess where a good size tree is growing 20m below the top of the krantz. Below this tree is a smooth 6m slab which on closer acquaintance proves to be deeply slotted. It is bounded on the left by a wall and above by a clean-cut overhang tapering away to the right. The route attains the foot of the slab by a 15m grassy crack running up to the left. The slab can either be avoided by a 5m traverse right and an ascent of the rocks immediately to the right of the slab, but more merit is acquired by ascending the corner on the left of the slab and crossing the top of the slab to the right just below the overhang. The large bay is now reached whence an easy route could be made out to the left. It is more interesting however, to continue the direct line of the climb and avoid the final wall by a traverse on to the buttress on the right.

Variation (not recommended – loose rock): The lower section has been more recently climbed as follows:

1. 15m 10 Climb the semi-grassy crack running up left into an open book.

2. 10m 11 Move up and left to the foot of an inverted pyramid of rock where tons of rock appear to be supported on a single small square block. Enter the crack to the right, move delicately round the pyramid and climb onto its front edge. Continue onto the long grassy slope below the upper section.

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

Start on the true right-hand wall of the kloof opposite the junction with NETTLE GULLY in a gully ending in steep rock (downstream of 'Grotesque').

1. 40m 7 Start at the base of the grey face and climb/scramble 15m onto a wide ledge. Move right past the gully that forms the base of a prominent chimney with two overhangs. Climb the right-hand wall of the gully to a stance 15m above ledge. (This pitch can be divided into two sections if an intermediate stance is made at the ledge at the base of the gully.)

2. 35m 11 Move left from the stance and diagonally upwards to the base of the chimney and climb to the top.

Start 50m upstream from STAMVRUG GULLY and right of 'Pad Pad', 20m above the stream level.

1. 45m 10 Climb the sloping grey pillar that has a vertical wall on its left-hand side. The climb steepens towards the top.

Start left of 'Vuil Pheiler'. The climb follows a slab which narrows to one meter at the top.

1. 30m 8 Climb on the slab (easy at first) to a small tree where the rock is red.

2. 15m 11 Continue straight up to the top.

Start just upstream of 'Easy Does It', at a narrow point in the kloof bed beside a large tree.

1. 45m 10 Climb 20m up a clean grey face, following a vertical crack line to an overhang. Climb the break to the left of the overhang onto a small nose (good holds). Continue straight up to the top.

Note: A clean, pleasant climb.

50m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY a well-defined ridge projects into the kloof. The climb starts up the distinctive 10m high open book just downstream of this ridge.

1. 33m 10 Climb the open book keeping in the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney for a short distance before moving onto the face on the right. Climb the face passing a small stamvrug tree on the left to a stance next to a small pinnacle with a block on it.

2. 33m 11 Bypass the overhang 5m up by climbing the face just to the right of it and continue up 5m to just below a ledge. Traverse a few meters left to a well-defined crack and follow this to the top.

Note: Protection is sparse on pitch 1.

The right crack line of the two mentioned in 'Fie' is climbed. This crack lies in the corner between the back of the short gully and the downstream side of the short gully.

1. 20m 11 Ascend the crack line. Good Climbing.

The climb goes up the corner 5m downstream of the gully where 'Fie', 'Fo' and 'Fum' begin.

1. 17m 8 Climb the corner to the comfortable ledge below the large overhang on the right (gully) side of the buttress.

2. 20m 11 Climb the face on the right of the roof and traverse left to a big tree. Continue diagonally left to a big flake on the corner of the buttress. Surmount this and continue up parallel cracks to the top.

The climb starts at a large tree at a large rock platform at the foot of the buttress immediately upstream of the scramble descent route. It is a very direct route, straight up the face, 16m to the left of the corner, starting at a cairn.

1. 18m 8 Climb directly in line with the small tree on a small ledge, do a layback and mantelshelf move, and belay on a tree in a recess on a large, wide ledge.

2. 14m 10 Climb 3m up to a large ledge, and then 7m up a wide chimney, the top of which is very smooth and strenuous.

3. 21m 8 Traverse 10m to a corner on the right, initially off-balance, then climb up a steep corner on good holds.

Note: A very pleasant and direct route on good rock.

Start just to the right of 'Snack' where there is a small red-brown corner about 10m above the kloof floor with a roof above it.

1. 30m 11 Climb the face 4m right of 'Snack'. Continue up in the corner, move over the overhang and traverse right onto a slab. Continue straight up the slab and the wall above to the top.

Climb the recess/gully between 'Zimbabwe Face' and 'High Rise' - 30m.

10m up from 'KB Three' on the same side (cairn).

1. 45m 11 Start at a high point behind a large block. Climb up diagonally left to the obvious break. Move up to the easy ground in the gully. Climb the good jamming crack on the left wall.

15m up from 'KB Two' on the same side of the kloof at a corner (cairn).

1. [10] 30m Climb the well defined chimney to a good ledge. Scramble up to the top.

10m up from 'KB One' on the same side (cairn).

1. 45m 10 Climb the wall right of the short chock stoned chimney to a good ledge. Climb straight up to a small recess. Move out right and up a short wall to the top.

This climb can be split into two pitches if required.

On the same side of the kloof and 10m upstream from 'North America Wall'. On the wall right of the recess (cairn).

1. 50m 11 Climb up left of the fault line to a squat pinnacle. Climb past on the left and continue up to the top. The climb can be split into two pitches at the pinnacle.

Some 20m upstream from the meet point is a small undercut buttress abutting the main kloof wall. This buttress and the wall above provide 30m of nondescript grade 10 climbing. The small buttress may be surmounted via a grade 6 pitch behind a tree to the left of a recess or via harder pitches on the left and right sides of the buttress.

1. [10] XXm Above the small buttress there is a stepped recess which is climbed with the aid of a 2m pinnacle in its second, or to the right lies a pleasant grade 6 face with a series of sloping ledges. Both pitches end on a wide sloping ledge. The way off lies up a short grey recess with two tricky grade 10 moves left onto a miniature grey slab.

This route starts just upstream of the lower meet site (about 10 to 15m) i.e. downstream of 'Roamer'.

1. 30m 11 Ascend the slab to the left of a gully for about 15m, up to a small ledge. Traverse right for 1 to 2m to the arete. Climb this, continuing up easier ground to the top.

The climb takes the obvious red chimney just downstream of and opposite to Rheebok Gully

1. 12m 10 Climb generally up the right side of the chimney to the small stance and tree.

2. 40m 10 Climb the crack in the right corner of the chimney and continue up the chimney to the top.

Note: Variations are possible on both pitches.

This climb follows a prominent ridge about 35m west of a pinnacle or buttress of rock leaning against the krantz leaving a gap about 5m in height between the buttress and the krantz. The ridge can also be identified by a large overhanging red block about 25m up on the left of the ridge.

1. [6] 6m

   Scramble up to a tree on left of ridge.

2. 12m 8 Climb up and to the right in a crack running up the centre of the ridge to a small stance above the hole through the ridge.

3. 22m 8 Traverse right to an exposed position on the arête. Ascend into the large recess on the right of the ridge.

4. 18m 10 Climb the crack behind a large tree for 9m and traverse back to the ridge at the obvious point. Alternatively ascend recess for 9m and traverse right onto ridge and ascend ridge.

5. 15m 8 Climb straight up the ridge.

6. 12m 6 Continue up the ridge to top.

Notes:

1. This climb can take a large party as stances, except at top of pitch 2, are large with good belays.

2. On 31 Oct 1937 R. Barry and party ascended the buttress immediately to the right of 'Fanny's Ridge'. The climb was recorded as generally of D standard, but "unsatisfactory and not recommended". The route was named Fanny's Buttress.

This climb on clean rock is left of 'Fanny's Ridge' and to the left of a large red overhang, about 30m up.

1. [8] 25m

   Climb face to stance below chimney/crack with large tree above.

2. 15m 10 Climb up chimney/crack behind huge block to tree.

3. 37m 9 Ascend straight up for 6m then left onto slab. Traverse diagonally left up to the left-hand extremity of slab then slightly right up crest of edge to stance.

4. 18m 11 Climb up via crest of edge to the top.

The climb starts at a low buttress slightly jutting forward.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a series of blocks in a shallow recess on the right of the buttress to a large ledge on top of buttress.

2. 11m 8 Climb short chimney up to second ledge.

3. 25m 11 Up chimney formed by pinnacle buttress leaning against face to a small cave and belay. This is the crux pitch and can be done in two portions.

4. 25m 10 Traverse right out of cave and across an exposed slab ascending on the right of slab.

The route finishes up the outside of the buttress or ridge which forms on its left the crack of 'Halfway House'. Start 30m right of the line of that route, 3m left of a white patch.

1. [11] 22m

   Ascend steep face to large grassy ledge.

2. 9m 8 Ascend face and traverse left to bottom of the crack on the right of the buttress.

3. 28m 10 Traverse left to centre of buttress and ascend recess to ledge.

4. 12m 8 Continue to top.

Start as for 'Halfway House'.

1. 12m 10 Climb diagonally left to the narrow ledge at the top of the first pitch of 'Blister Major'. Traverse left along ledge to same stance.

2. 34m 11 Traverse left around skyline and then ascend. The route follows the left edge of the grey wall. It passes patches of red rock, a crack, and a small overhang near the top. Alternatively the pitch may be started at the flake or ridge on the skyline (13).

The climb is just right of the recess in Remhoogte Gully mentioned under 'Gully Crack'. Either start the climb just right of this recess or start from the recess and traverse right to the route.

1. 15m 10 Ascend wall to large stance.

2. 15m 10 Head for obvious stance on skyline.

3. 22m 8 Ascend wall to summit.

The climb is situated about 180m to the left of Remhoogte Gully. At this point there is a 'set back' face framed on each side by a ridge and at the top by a prominent overhang. The start of the climb is about 45m to the left of a cave (2½ m high, 10m deep) at the top of the grass slope.

1. [10] 15m

   Start at the left hand edge of the face from a stout tree. Ascend corner to tree.

2. 25m 8 Ascend diagonally to right to a stance in middle of face where there are a number of white blocks.

3. 15m 8 Climb to another stance with block for belay.

4. 15m 11 Climb up to roof of overhang by one of several alternatives and traverse out left by means of a dassie traverse .

5. 9m 6 Ascend broken rock to top

About 20m to the left of 'Porthole Ridge' is another ridge marking the western boundary of the top pitch of 'Porthole Crag'. Still further to the left is a second sharply defined ridge having on its left boundary a vertical red face forming a recess with the buttress on its right. In this recess grow two large bushes about half way up, immediately below the brown face. The climb follows the line of the ridge keeping to the left of the edge where most of the climbing is on a flat face.

Start approximately 150m west of 'Breakfast Run' where there are no bushes on the slope below the climbs. The climb starts on a white slab facing towards Hartebeespoort Dam. The slab gets progressively steeper until it reaches the steep arete.

1. 35m 11 Climb the centre of the white slab (a little thin near the top) passing right of a tree which has no low down branches and which projects from the face at 65o. Continue up past a cluster of bushes, then traverse right across a gully and under some overhangs into a black recessed stance which can be clearly seen to the right when approaching the foot of the climb.

2. 25m 10 Climb above the belay stance on the right hand edge of the arete (still facing the dam) and up to the easier rock above.

Note: The climb appears to enjoy more winter sun than most others in the area.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Approximately 50m downstream from the start of the main rock face on the right hand side of the kloof the rock wall makes a double right angle bend first into the kloof then back to its normal line parallel with the kloof. At the internal angle of this bend is a deep and prominent chimney with various chockstones caught in it. The route follows the chimney to the top. Climb out on right at top.

Note: There is loose rock in the chimney requiring care.

Start about 3m to right of 'Easy Way Out'.

1. 22m 11 Ascend face moving left for 2m then straight up for 6m. Climb left into diagonally right sloping corner crack up to corner belay 14m.

2. 20m 9 Proceed directly up easy face. Ascend to top moving slightly left.

Start 20m upstream from 'Skeleton' cave and scramble up 10m to large cave. Walk left and upwards to tree belay.

1. 40m 10 From tree traverse left (very exposed) to overlook 'Skeleton' cave, then ascend steeply, exiting to the right just past a tree. Continue easily to the top.

Start just downstream of 'Pink Corner' at easy grey slab with corner on right. Scramble up slab (5) to ledge and continue leftwards past trees to base of pinnacle (upstream side).

1. 25m 10 Ascend corner between pinnacle and main cliff and walk through behind pinnacle to far side (possible stance behind pinnacle). Step down slightly on downstream side of pinnacle and then traverse (crux) to tree (slight ascent) and on to large ledge (slight descent) and good stance.

2. 30m 11 Climb easily up leftwards to top of large block (15m). Step off block to left and ascend steeply to top.

Variations possible on front of pinnacle (10), and to the left of the block on pitch 2, (5) or right (13)

The climb starts in well defined small corner about 20m below 'Solo' and either a grade 7 or 8 start may be made.

1. [9] 17m

   Climb a shallow recess with a narrow opening at the top. 7m of grade 8 onto a square ledge. Or alternatively, climb easy rock about 5m to the left of this, moving up and to the right to reach the same square ledge (7). Climb straight up following the crack for 10m to tree stance.

2. 10m 10 Climb the steep crack directly above the tree on good grips. Continue straight up to the large ledge.

3. 17m 8 Climb the main face behind big tree (at this point climb crosses 'Solo'). Belay at ledge with tree growing out horizontally.

4. 12m 7 Climb up and to the right to final V-shaped recess at top.

About halfway between 'Dancing on the Ceiling' and 'Library Freak' is a pronounced roof and curving crack above a smooth slab. The route takes a line up the centre of the clean buttress just downstream of this roof/slab combination ( cairn ).

1. [10] 30m Take an arbitrary line up to the top. Probably the most interesting part is pulling through on huge jugs to exit before taking a stance.

Note: Despite the easy grade a worthwhile pleasant clean climb for a beginner. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

The climb lies up the corner on the right overlooking the deep lunch pool, opposite 'Pool Ascent'.

1. 12m 7 Climb the small gully just downstream of the corner to a large earth ledge and tree halfway up the corner.

2. 11m 11 From the tree climb up a small crack for 3m then traverse right around a nose In an exposed position to a ledge overlooking the pool.

3. 15m 6 Climb the easy face to the top of the kloof.

The climb is on the face immediately upstream of Castle Gully. It starts about 15m upstream of Castle Gully and about 10m left of a prominent white-pink patch at the base of the krantz.

1. [8] 3m

   Climb up the little buttress to a ledge with a block belay. Scramble to the left for 8m.

2. 15m 7 Climb (straddle) the recess and ascend easier rock to a ledge with a tree belay.

3. 12m 10 Up a 3m thin crack, then over easy rock to a large ledge below an overhang. Belay on a tree.

4. 20m 11 Up into obvious chimney through the overhang and out to the right when upward progress is blocked by a tree growing in the face. Up to a second overhang and then right across a thin face to a ledge, then up a thin slab to the top.

This climb is situated on the buttress referred to under 'Theme and Variations'. It starts about 12m down and to the left of 'Theme and Variations' and follows a ridge on the buttress.

1. 18m 11 Commence on the steep face to the left of the ridge, and work upwards and to the right, reaching the crest of the ridge at a tree.

2. 18m 8 From the tree ascend the ridge immediately above (steep but with good holds) and work out on to an easy face on the right.

Starts to the left of 'Beginners' Traverse'.

1. [7] 10m

   After a tricky take-off, ascend an easy face for 6m bearing slightly left. Traverse 3m left and then up 1,5m to a ledge. Tree belay.

2. 9m 10 Ascend the steep face for about 2m, move around the corner and diagonally left up a sloping face into a crack. Tree belay.

3. 9m 8 Ascend the crack for 5m and continue up an easy face to the top .

This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof.

1. 40m 11 Climb the tight-hand side of a prominent buttress 50m right of 'Sentinel Traverse' with last 20m a scramble.

2. 28m 11 Traverse right on a short wall into the bottom of a shallow chimney. Pleasant climbing to the top.

Located in the middle of a grey amphitheatre overlooking the scree in 'Lightning Ravine'. Scramble up the bush covered subsidiary buttress abutting the main wall to a dark recess.

1. 20m 10 Climb the recess for 5m and move right on to the face when progress is blocked. Rejoin the recess higher up and continue to stance.

2. 20m 11 Continue up the fault to the summit.

There is a small buttress approximately 20m left of 'Enigma Face'. The route takes a line in a recess left of this buttress. This provides better climbing than that on the right-hand side.

1. 20m 11 Climb a crack in the recess and move over right onto a short wall. Climb this and proceed over broken rock moving slightly right then left to a tree.

2. 20m 11 Continue up a recess taking in the left wall first and then right across the recess to the right ridge to the top. (The top portion of this pitch is on unstable rock. The first party cleared much of this away.)

Variation 2. 20m 8 Continue for about a meter up the left wall of the recess and step around left to easy ground. Climb diagonally left and up to the top.

About 12m towards lunch cave from 'Muffin's Route' is a prominent nose. Start directly beneath it.

1. [10] 15m

   Climb face to large ledge below nose.

2. 25m 11 Ascend crack between smooth little face and nose for 9m. Move right for 3m onto nose and then straight up to top.

The route takes the front face of the buttress immediately right of 'Dome Gully' providing pleasant face climbing. Scramble 18m up to bottom of the buttress and start 3m right of the gully.

1. [11] 20m

   Move up onto a pinnacle (3m) and continue directly up the wall above to tree belay. Deviations may be necessary for protection.

2. 27m 11 Move a few metres right and climb a shallow groove for 15m. This brings you to a platform where there is a tree on the left. Use tree as sling point. Move back right into fault and carry on straight to top.

Please do not climb this route between April and October (inclusive) due to nesting of black eagles.

Please do not climb this route between April and October (inclusive) due to nesting of black eagles.

The last three pitches of this climb are the same as for 'Trapeze Crag (Major)'. The delicate traverse under the overhang on the Major climb is obviated by starting the climb on the ridge immediately below the left hand edge of the overhang. It is advisable to make at least two pitches for this which are of grade 11 before linking with the Major route at the left edge of the overhang.

Variation:

1 10 Instead of climbing the ridge of the first pitch, follow the recess immediately to the left of the ridge.

Start about 15m to left of 'Trapeze Crag (Minor)' on the right edge of a column or buttress inclining upwards to the left.

1. 18m 10 Follow the right hand edge of buttress to ledge at top.

2. 20m 9 Traverse left 4m then diagonally up to left for 6m to a point vertically above a deeply cut recess on left going down to base of krantz. Thence upwards to right to a stance below a broken face.

3. 20m 9 Vertically up over broken face to bushy stance below grey face.

4. 20m 10 Either continue straight up in crack through centre of grey face above or incline right to bypass face and ascend in recess on right of face.

About 20m left of 'Dome Face'. Starts in recess to the left of an overhanging block.

1. 25m 10 Climb straight up to stance above blocks.

2. 20m 10 Upwards to right across left face of a column to join top of third pitch of 'Dome Face'.

3. 20m 9 Climb up in corner to left of grey face. i.e. Face of 'Dome Face'.

20m to left of 'Dome Corner'. Starts on a vertical rectangular buttress clearly defined by two vertical cracks going up about 12m and about 9m apart. A secondary buttress slightly lower and about 4m wide projects out from the main one.

1. 12m 10 Climb up centre of secondary buttress or pinnacle, to right of overhanging block (or to left of block) to a ledge on top of buttress.

2. 15m 10 Traverse left 3m and ascend to left of recess with block wedged in.

3. 15m 9 Follow line of ridge slightly to left and ascend over broken blocks to large ledge.

4. 12m 5 Traverse 12m right along base of face.

5. 17m 9 Up recess on left of overhanging column for 6m then traverse right to ridge of column and ascend to final stance on slopes.

In the description of 'Chapel Buttress' two prominent trees are mentioned, one two thirds up and one a third up and slightly to the left. There is a grey ridge immediately left of the lower tree. The ridge is undercut and red for the first 6m from the ground. The top of the ridge is about halfway up the face. The route goes up the left side of the ridge to its top, thence up the recessed face above.

1. [10] 18m

   Scramble 4m and start in corner at narrow crack formed by the ridge and main face. Ascend 1½ m and move right 1m. A section past a loose flake and aloes brings one to the base of a 15cm wide crack up the flank of the ridge. (This point can also be reached by traversing from the first pitch of 'Chapel Buttress', from the foot of the crack just below the lower tree. This is a pleasanter alternative being cleaner). Move left into the corner formed by the ridge and the main face, and continue to the top of the ridge (8).

2. 25m 11 The crack directly above which is divided for part of its length by a rib is now climbed. The right branch is marked by a (loose) chockstone. Avoid the chockstone by climbing on the face to the right, re-entering the crack above the chockstone. Continue to the top. The rock is pleasant and steep.

Start at base of wide crack with chockstone cap 20m to the right of 'The Lug'.

1. 15m 10 Climb crack breaking right of chockstone cap at top to good large sloping ledge.

2. 20m 11 Climb crack straddling to the top.

3. 30m 8 Climb up ridge on right of crack (now very open and bushy) and continue up over sloping bulging rock to top.

Start 50m west of fence from a point just right of block against the face.

1. [8] 34m

   Up slightly overhanging bottomless recess for 4m then right 12m to tree and from tree diagonally left to big ledge.

2. 28m 11 Start 3m left of two huge blocks one on top of the other. Up crack for 12m then left to tree. From tree up a few meters and then further left for 6m to stance next to tree.

3. 30m 9 Straight up from tree and then bear left following the line of least resistance to the top.

The climb starts in a high narrow cave 30 metres short of the first clump of trees on Fountain Gully West. Start right of 'Aloe Alley'. The climb crosses 'Aloe Alley' at the top of the first pitch.

1. 18m 10 Climb 5m to roof of cave and through small opening on to small ledges. Step right on to face and traverse 4m right. Climb into small aloe-filled recess, traverse 2m left to narrow gully. Squeeze through hole to stance on top of buttress.

2. 19m 11 Climb 5m up bulging rock face on sloping holds to sloping chimney / recess. Traverse 6m left under overhang past tree to platform. Make strenuous moves 3½ m past aloe into narrow recess. Climb 5m to stance at blocks in corner with 2 small windows in rock.

3. 23m 9 Traverse 9m diagonally left round corner. Scramble 9m up gully then 5m up blocks to top.

Starts on a ridge to left of grass-strewn broken face, at top of krantz and on right of a series of overhanging red faces. This is about 18m to left of 'Aloe Alley'.

1. 18m 9 Up a small gully to base of a face about 5m high, thence up face to grass ledge. From here a longer face immediately above is climbed and a traverse to the left at the top of this leads to a stance enclosed by bushes to right of a red rock ridge.

2. 18m 9 Through bushes around corner to left of ridge then up to a stance below large.

3. 22m 11 To left from stance below rock. This leads to a crack or cubby hole up which the climb proceeds to the summit. Variation: (10) Ascend the face on the left side of the ridge. When this face becomes steeper about two-thirds way up, traverse right just around the edge of the ridge. The traverse entails a slightly awkward descending move. This brings one to the original route.

The route starts in a clump of trees, just opposite the first big tree.

1. [8] 18m

   Straight up for 15m, then traverse right to recess with two small chockstones in crack.

2. 15m 8 Up a few meters, climb right around a corner, then up over block to recess. Up recess to big stance in cave-like chimney.

3. 15m 10 Ascend a few meters in cave and then left out onto exposed face. Move up diagonally left to comfortable stance below recessed chimney which provides a break through the overhangs.

4. 18m 9 Up recess for 6m and then, to avoid bush above, step across to the left onto face. Up face to top.