Zeigt alle 45 Begehungen.
Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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So 27. Jun 2021 - Changi | ||||||
Batu Puteh | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Atlantis | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Took a few goes to get this. Originally was trying to go through directly up which was quite difficult. However found an alternative beta using a mega jug on the right. Made it much easier
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Sa 19. Jun 2021 - Changi | ||||||
Batu Puteh | ||||||
6B | ★★ Crucifix | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Really cool moves
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6A | ★★ Leap Of Faith | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice warm up
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Fr 12. Feb 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boring and meaningless | ||||||
5b | ★★ Boring and Meaningless | 8m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Found the ledges quite polished and slippery. Maybe harder than 5b.
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6b+ | ★★ Acrophobia variation | 7m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pretty cool moves through the crux. Awesome climb!
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5b | ★★ Valhalla | 7m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Was good fun once I figured out I had to use the right side pulls
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7b | ★★★ Decade of Decadence | 11m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Such a cool sequence through the crux. Finding the left hand pinch intermediate helped getting the side pull on the other side of the arete.
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6a+ | ★★ Flying Logan | 11m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Good flow! Felt like a one move wonder but good fun
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Sa 30. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
The Nose | ||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Enjoyed it. Chossy start, bouldery traverse section before the crack. Good fun.
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6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super awesome! Cool moves through crack before the beautiful arete. Felt it was more straight forward than First Blood.
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6b+ 6c | ★★ Swab Test | 25m, 11 | ★ Gut | |||
Found it harder than Alarette with a few steeper sections through the bulges. Required a bit of thinking through some sections.
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So 17. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boulders Green Attack | ||||||
V2 5+ | ★ Gumby | ★ Gut | ||||
One hard move. The edges get smaller the higher you go
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So 17. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boulders Caveman | ||||||
V5 6C | ★★★ Papa Way | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Maybe I was tired but found it harder than Midday Lightning. Took me so many goes! The guidebook talks about starting on the right side pull but struggled to start matched and feet up on the block. Started with right hand on side pull and left hand on good hold on left
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So 17. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boulders Superstar | ||||||
V5 6C | ★★★ Midday Lightning | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Strong cross move to good edge and then good holds up top. Amazing line
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So 17. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boulders Yawning Turtle | ||||||
V4 6B | ★★★ Heel Around The World | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Such an amazing problem!
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So 17. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Boulders Superstar | ||||||
V2 6A | ★ Tin Foil Traverse | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun warm up
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Sa 9. Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Homage | ||||||
6c 6a+ | ★★ Nanometer | 6m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super fun moves at last bolt! Very sequencey and bouldery. Took me abit to figure how to clip the anchors.
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Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
American Pie | ||||||
★★ Super Crack | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Amazing line and super fun jamming! Personally feel like it's a 5.10+/11- when compared with Indian Creek or Liming crack grades
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Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Dairy Farm | ||||||
Third Kid | ||||||
6c 7a | ★★ Good Friday | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Wow what amazing moves. Super fun
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6b | ★★ Devil's hand | 25m, 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Found it technical and pumpy for a warm up
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Di 12. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
印第岩 Indy Wall | ||||||
5.11 5.11d | ★★ The Dune - mit Dave | 130m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pretty fun climbing! We decided to do the left start and into pitch 2a which was a great idea. The right start is total choss and if we rocked up and saw it, we probably would've left. The left start had an alpine feel with loose blocks and chossy rock. It was tricky with our backpacks. We left the packs at the end of the first pitch and grabbed them when we rappelled down. Pitch 2 was really cool with the roof and then the bouldering ending. Pitch 3 was not "a touch burly" as it was described in the book.. It was hell burly for most of the pitch. So much offwidth! Pitch 4 was the crux but didn't feel any harder than the other pitches. Ended up stemming on the opposite wall for the fingers section. We didn't do pitch 5 and rappelled down.
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So 10. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 (The Reckoning) | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Relatively short. Managed to get a kneebar rest before the 0.5 section and then punched it through the final finger crack.
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So 10. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Found it hard to warm up on. Was fun to it again to practice 0.75s
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Sa 9. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Was good to get back on it. Noticed I moved more efficiently on the jams.
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5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl | 28m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice warm up
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Mi 6. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Back to the Primitive | 180m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Pitch 1 was short warm up, it was pretty average climbing. At the top of the pitch you reach a terrace where you can walk to the right for 5m for the start of the 2nd pitch. The 2nd pitch was awesome. Started balancy with small gear then a ledge for a rest before the hard fingers. There was no easing into it, it was straight in there and got harder the higher you get. You reach a "jug" but still have some hard moves before you are home. I ended up falling after pumping out on the jug. Got it 2nd try. Abby lead pitch 3 & 4 which I thought was harder than 5.10. The 5th pitch was awesome fun, cool balancy traverse after a chimney that you can't fall into. The last section of the pitch ends with a sting with a short section of fingers. The 6th pitch was the aid pitch. The bolts are spaced far apart. I found that I used a 60cm sling for foot loop, went it hard to the bolt with a quick draw and then stood up high like you would high stepping when aid climbing worked well. The 7th pitch was harder than it looks. The flakes were a mixture of lay backing and jamming. The final pitch was exciting, slabby. We got lost trying to follow the descent in the guide. Ended up just following a track all the way right to the end of the wall and down the gully at the end via a track with switchbacks. The gear beta in the guidebook was spot on!
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Mo 4. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
阳朔运动攀岩区 Yangshuo Sports Climbers' Crag Censored Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Freedom to Burn | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Enjoyed it more than Feedbag. Also found it easier than feedbag by stemming / chimneying most of the tight hand jams using face holds. The top section was super fun stemming
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5.10+ | ★★ Feedbag | 37m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Awkward start into slot then hand jams followed by tight hands. Careful to extend your cams near the top of the tight hands section and then extend it above to prevent your cams getting sucked into the crack when the rope is tight like I did. Note don't use block at the top on the left near the flake which has a large X on it.
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So 3. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Wind of the Valley | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Did a warm up top rope on it and it was really amazing. Was good to see the progress after 2 weeks of crack climbing. Managed to jam the whole thing.
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Sa 2. Nov 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.10b 5.11b | ★★ Brazen Hussie | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Went up to the first anchor. Ok warm up
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5.11 | ★★★ Akhum Rah | 27m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Really awesome climb. Cool start with small gear that gets the heart rate up.
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5.11d | ★★ The Sphinx | 40m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Only up to the first anchor. Cool sequence through roof then tiring offwidth.
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Mi 30. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
假日区 The Holidays 太空山区 Space Mountain | ||||||
5.10+ | ★ Munsunned | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
Dirty especially near the top
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5.10 | ★★ Outer Space | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Great stemming, found it better than Munsunned
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Mo 28. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Really nice warm up
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5.10 | ★★ Dancing with Dragons | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Tricky sections where the crack narrows down to 0.75
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5.10+ | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
So so good! Bouldery traverse to establish the crack and then rest half way.
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Mi 23. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10 5.10d PG | ★★★ Soul’s Awakening | 140m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Such an amazing multipitch. P1 was harder than I thought, linked it up with pitch 2. Pitch 3 was nice jamming. Pitch 4 was solid and first half gave you a teaser of the offwidth to come. The honeycomb rock feature definitely helped as feet. The second half of pitch 4 was the money pitch, full on offwidth battle, was so ready to give up. Started left side in and once the honeycomb features on the right wall ran out, changed to right side in. Pitch 5 was kinda ordinary.
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Di 22. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Warm up | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Found the top mantle hard
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Di 22. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Wind of the Valley | 30m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
Awesome climb, worth it for the crappy approach. Thank God for the tree!
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Mo 21. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ||||
Forgot how painful crack climbing is on the feet =P
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5.11 | ★★★ Gore | |||||
This was short but super fun! Steep moves on solid jams
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Mo 21. Okt 2019 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Screaming at the Moon | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pretty cool first pitch but loved the second pitch with sections of secure offwidthing!
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So 25. Mär 2018 - Long Dong | ||||||
Golden valley Euro Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Climax | 23m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Wow! So good! Love the airy traverse and the twin rooflets!
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So 25. Mär 2018 - Long Dong | ||||||
Golden valley Bikini Cave | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ String Bikini | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Such an amazing climb! Cool hand and finger jams!
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