Routen in Cassandra Area

It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

Beautiful slab into super steep roofing - great moves. Almost a sport route (take some small cams and there is a fixed wire) Start as for the The Last Disco Dancer and follow this to the roof (cam in slot here) head diagonally R through the roof past 2 UBS, crossing Pain Street (fixed wire and small cam) and continue R out the prow past 2 more UBs and some powerful moves to a lower off!

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

1. 22m (18) Straight up past 5 bolts, then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.

Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'.

Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.

Start: Start 3m R of C.

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

COntinue up gully for 12m, climb to ledge, L and up crack.

Start: Start at the bolt belay of 'Ckinarde' (the location of which is not provided...).

Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.