Zeigt alle 50 Routen.
Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Morfydd Wall | |||||
24 | Rocky
Start up high in Major Mitchell Gully, above the massive boulder, and opposite Brontosaurus (described under Dunes Buttress). May in fact be right up at the top of the gully on a small block when the gully is very narrow and further up than Brontosaurus (on opposite wall, but not directly opposite.) From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line. Erstbegehung: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 12m | |||
23 | Bullwinkle
Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block. Erstbegehung: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993 | 12m | |||
18 | ★★ Natchez Trace
A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top. Start above Trench Warfare, under a little wall which faces Dunes Buttress and is on the same level as the start of Thunder Crack (which is described under the Bluff Major section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite Missing Link or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park. Erstbegehung: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 15m | |||
26 | ★ Anxious Boys with Power Toys
Plenty of angst here. Start 10m up L from Trench Warfare. Erstbegehung: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993 | 15m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Trench Warfare
Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously. Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully. Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1980 | 35m | |||
19 | ★★ Firedance
The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor. Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton, 1977 | 15m | |||
19 | Bearbrass
Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.
Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran & Steve Greig, 19 Feb 2018 | 33m, 2, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Deeply Techo
Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top. Start as for Feral Chicken. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1981 | 20m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken
Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish. Start 3m L of L. Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Feral Chicken Direct Finish
An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors. Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest, 7 Mär 2017 | 20m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Feral Fee-box
Fridge hugging. Start 2m R of FC. Erstbegehung: Gordon Poultney & Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994 | 12m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Lennox
Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall. Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right. Erstbegehung: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 30m | |||
21 | ★★ Slap the Philanthropist
Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall. | 30m | |||
15 | ★ The Philanthropist
3m up Lennox, then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams. Start as for L. Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1984 | 30m | |||
23 | ★ Petrol Solutions
As for Slap Happy (crux) to the ledge, then follow the bolts. Better than it looks and manages to stay out of Slap the Philanthropist. Start as for SH. Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd & Gordon Poultney, 1994 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Slap Happy
Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge. Start 2m R of L. Erstbegehung: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1980 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Kool Aid
Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains. Erstbegehung: Douglas Hockly, 2010 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Wavy Gravy
Start a metre right of the rock step and follow initial couple of bolts through crux sequence to ledge, step left on ledge and up through proud rock. Small wires and small cams. Erstbegehung: Hywel Rowlands & Glenn Tempest, Feb 2019 | 18m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Mr Happy Direct (Supper Happy)
A more obvious direct version of Mr Happy. After the first two bolts of Mr Happy head straight up the wall via horizontal with small to medium cams to join the end of Kinkaid. Erste freie Begeh.: adam demmert, 22 Mär 2019 | 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid
A sweet slab. Has lower-offs. Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Housemaid's Knee
The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove. Start just L of G. Erstbegehung: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985 | 15m | |||
9 | Gazollika
Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof. Start on the next buttress uphill from Morfydd, at a chimney with a square roof. Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Leadership Spill
Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear. Erstbegehung: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 8 Jan 2015 | 25m | |||
8 | Blinky Bill
This bit of rock is getting more crowded than High Dive Gully. It would be surprising if any of the climbing is new. Start up Kincaid then cross to steep juggy crack on the right wall. From the big ledge (belay possible) climb past the No Standing chains then centrally up headwall. Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 24 Jan 2017 | 25m | |||
15 | No Place for Foxes
Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove. Start just R of G. Erstbegehung: Paul Daniels & Maureen Gallagher, 1984 | 30m | |||
15 | ★ No Space for Boxes
From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS. Erstbegehung: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 8 Dez 2015 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Foxes in Boxes
Good climbing some dodgy gear. | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ No Standing
Very good climbing. Choose either crack to start (both tough), then follow the thin diagonal line with good gear up to and past an old piton (pin can be backed up with modern small cams and isn't really needed any more). Start in the middle of the buttress L of Morfydd. Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979 | 25m | |||
25 | Standing on Principles
Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam. Start 2m R of NS. Erstbegehung: Paul Hoskins & Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Stillborn
The line delineating the L side of the Morfydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors. Erstbegehung: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1967 | 20m | |||
25 | ★★ Master Blaster
Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of Stillborn, or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better). Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is good gear now with modern gear, (especially near the pin which should not be trusted by it's self), but can you hang on to place it. The high bolt on Morfyne should also be backed up. Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest & Carole Bradley, 1980 | 28m | |||
24 | ★ Morfyne
Close to Morfydd at times, but still a very appealing wall. Start 3m L of Morfydd. Note: the top bolt should be backed up; easy to do in the horizontal just below. Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 30m | |||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd
Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top. Erstbegehung: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968 | 30m | |||
22 | ★ Mojito
This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux. Erste freie Begeh.: Enga Lokey, 8 Aug 2016 | 28m, 2 | |||
23 | Visual Laxative
Accidentally retroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of Morfydd. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock. Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan & Natalie Green, 1979 | 35m, 2, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Televisual Laxative
As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge. Erstbegehung: Oz & Douglas Hockly, 2015 | 35m | |||
12 | ★ Bygone
The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face. Erstbegehung: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 30m, 1 | |||
24 | The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle
Start in the gully right of Bygone, below the crack near arete. Looks rather serious. Erstbegehung: Hoskins & Smith, 1995 | 25m | |||
Ali's Area | |||||
10 | ★ Debut
A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.
Erstbegehung: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965 | 80m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ The Grand Arapiles Alpine Traverse
This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes. Erstbegehung: | 220m, 8 | |||
9 R | Ali's Face
Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's. Erstbegehung: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1964 | 50m | |||
3 | ★ Ali's
Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress. Erstbegehung: The Craddocks? | 60m | |||
26 | The Dude Abides
Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts. Erstbegehung: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 30m, 4 | |||
25 | Nursery Rhymes
Start as for Ali's. Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete. Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 30m | |||
21 | ★ Directathal
Up the diagonal crack of Meanderthal, then instead of traversing R continue up the arete. Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest & Mike Law-Smith, 1981 | 30m | |||
24 | Tobermory
Start as for Directathal. Then what? (Maybe it takes the middle of the bulge then the face R of the arete, staying between Directathal and Meanderthal?) Erstbegehung: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 25m, 2 | |||
22 | Meanderthal
Start as for Ali's. Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then traverse 5m R to steep jugging. Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson & Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 30m | |||
13 | A Snortiblog in Paradise
Up the corner of Sisyphus to ledge, then head up L on red wall. Erstbegehung: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986 | 25m | |||
12 | Sisyphus
Start at Ali's.
Erstbegehung: Two South Australians, 1965 | 80m, 4 | |||
12 | Oedipus Complex
Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard. Erstbegehung: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 66m |
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