Routen in The Red Wall & Toccata Wall für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.

1. 35m 17. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation to chains (30m to gully).

2. 50m. Originally went to top but this pitch is rubbish so just rap off.

The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at Arapiles that he would not consider repeating. Start just R of Bass Clef, directly below the chimney of Bass Clef.

1. 30m (17) Directly up thin lichenous seams to the base of the chimney of Bass Clef, then up right on black slab to the foot of a crack just left of Tremulo. Up this crack to a stance atop a short chimney. The abseil chain on Tremulo is just a step to the right, not that we're suggesting running away or anything like that.

2. 15m (-) Step left and climb front of buttress.

3. 25m (-) Up crest of buttress finishing steeply past gnome.

4. 5m (-) The crack behind. Rope drag could be a problem.

Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.

Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.

1. Step right from the start of Toccata into crack and up to ledge. Follow seams up and right past small and fiddly gear. Where seam blanks out, step left and continue up to base of Toccata's chimney.

2. The wide crack of Yossarian looks rubbish. Just finish up Toccata.

A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.

1. 13m (10) The buttress to a small stance about 6 metres below and left of prominent roof.

2. 35m (17) Up diagonally right from 2-3 metres to an awkward mantleshelf then an unlikely traverse back left to a thin crack. Go up into a wider, bottomless crack just right of 'Toccata'. The easiest way off is probably to scramble around (roped) to the abseil anchors on 'Toccata'.

Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one.

Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc.

Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete.