The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined.
While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join.
Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.
20m (10) Up chimney past a thrutchy section and belay out on the left arete. Many parties climb the rib left of the chimney instead (as per P1 of Monkey Poo), this is harder and less-well protected.
20m (10) Climb wall past interesting move at 5 metres and continue to ledge on left. Some parties run the first two pitches together.
35m (10) Delicately up smooth, sustained wall (there's a corner on the left and an unappetising chimney on the right). Make sure to place protection low down here as more than one good climber has smashed their ankles on the ledge after an unexpected slip. Continue up to ledge on right (old peg runner). Up arete to eventually meet chimney. Cross chimney and up 4 metres to big ledge.
38m (8) The original start to this pitch, going up diagonally right from the belay was very poorly protected. Traverse 10 metres right along the ledge to a thin crack. Go up to meet the diagonal line then climb diagonally right just below the junction of grey and red rock.
12m (9) Traverse right and climb a short, steep wall to a balcony belay.
25m (8) Walk left along balcony and climb up second weakness.
20m (7) Traverse spectacularly left to ledge, then scramble off
31 Okt 1964 | Erstbegehung: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone |
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30 Apr 2021 | Warnung Zugang: Climbing not advised. SPA Area |
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Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
10,10,10,8,9,8,7 | Schwierigkeitsgrad |
10 | ★★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
10 | ★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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Autor(en): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Datum: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Autor(en): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Datum: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Autor(en): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Datum: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Gina Tsanaktsidis in ★★★ Syrinx 10 - The crux has just been dispensed
Marian Turner in ★★★ Syrinx 10 - On pitch 7 (it's just a step to the left....)
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