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Eintrag |
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Black Site Crags
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
Black Site
A new offering of steep pumpy climbing with pockets! With a pristine wilderness setting, protection from the rain and the westerly winds this crag can offer year round climbing. |
Black Site |
18
★ Family Circus
Great warm-up and also suitable for top-roping as it's only vertical - unlike everything else at this crag. Far right route up orange streak, with a flake in the middle. Scramble in to belay ledge from the left end. |
22
★★ Chocolate Rocket
Longest route at the crag! An old-school, improbable offering. Seeps after rain. Starts about 8m right of the approach rope - but down on ground level on rocky ramp. Tricky slab, to steep chocolate-coloured headwall on amazing pockets and jugs. |
Right Hand Side Ledge
The following three routes are on a small ledge to the right of the main approach rope. Scramble up and along ledge to far right end and clip into belay bolt. |
25
★★★ Locus of Control
A zen-like cruise to a Margalef-like finale. There is alot to learn on on this banger. Starts right of the belay bolt. Up "corner" to tricky mantle. Continue up steep slab on beautiful pockets to rest. Meditate, and steel yourself for an intense, sustained, transcendental finish. New ethereal beta from the universe has made this route easier however it doesn't detract from its quality. If you want to earn 26 use the Mono out far left. |
23
★★ Deflated/Reinstated
A brilliant long climb, whose first iteration proved dissappointing, but whose reimagining produced a rare technical delicacy. Start as for Locus of Control (or via the much harder Covid Conspiracy Capers) to the ledge, clip long runner out left, then traverse left (crossing Covid Conspiracy Capers) via crux, and continue left until bolts guide you back up the wall. Despite appearances you can clean this route on lower-off ok without rethreading. |
27
★★★ Covid Conspiracy Capers
"Yes, the 5G I put in your Telstra pit gave you COVID." Unrelenting! Straight up slab left of the belay bolt. Boulder moves to turn the bulge, traverse left, then continue up the steep "slab" on inspiring white and grey rock, with surprisingly dynamic moves. |
Left Hand Side Ledge
This is the main sector of climbing at the crag, with a reasonably large ledge to hang out on (it's safe to walk around without being clipped in). Hand over hand up the knotted fixed rope for 8m to gain the ledge. |
25
★★ The Life of Pablo
Named after the bone spur on the first ascensionist femur that was removed the day after the FA. Start at top of the knotted approach rope on far right end of ledge. Tricky mantle start, traverse right to a pocketed dyno and la rose finish on perfect rock. |
22
★ For the Fans and Non Believers
Right trending steep overhanging jug haul to an awesome water washed finish. Starts 2m left of Pablo. |
23
★★ Summer of Rain
Glorious pumping. Starts off right side of small platform about 5m left of approach rope. Stick-clip 2nd bolt. Head slightly right at the 2nd bolt, then up on jugs to join pumpy, water-polished, gnarly finale. Anchors out left. |
25
★★ Cloak and Dagger (Linkup)
Links the best features of 3 routes into some of the most sustained climbing at the crag, while avoiding all the gnarly cruxes. Start up The Cabal, continue into the Open Project, and after clipping the last bolt, keep trucking right to gain the last bolt of "Summer of Rain" (long runner) and finish up that. |
27
★★ The Syndicate
Start as for The Cabal to the 5th bolt, then punch up and right via pockets to crimp rail traverse. Truck right past one new bolt, then crux to gain left-facing flake-thing, followed by committing climbing to the anchor. |
26
★★ The Cabal
Climbs the improbable blank-looking white streak. Very cruxy. Powerful moves to gain the white rock, choose the LEFT line of bolts, and tackle extremely bouldery crux moving left to flake, followed by a technical and committing headwall. Might be significantly easier with a long enough wingspan. |
25
★★ Secret Squirrel
The first route climbed at this crag! Hard at the grade. Climbs the rust-brown rock left of the white streak (the Cabal). Very sustained, pumpy and technical, with a brutal sting in the tail. All thriller, no filler. |
23
★★ Funky Venga Bus
Jump on the Funky Venga Bus, it won’t disappoint! Apparently It's like that by Run DMC and Jason Nevis sounds like a funky venga bus.... |
24
★★ Needle Shield
Very nice top half up the white shield and orange ripples. Ledgy start just right of Gumbo. |
19
★ Gumbo
A good warm up. Up slab to a sandy middle on easy ground than a quick trip up a steep corner on Arapiles style rock. |
22
★★ Spook Flake
Pocketed orange wall to steeper ground and flake on right. Take care to avoid touching the humongous flake on the left when lowering off. |
Luke Closed Project
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash. For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/ |
22
★ Sneaky Snorkeler
Bouldery start, jug city for a bit then speccy limestone like face climbing up the grey headwall. |
22
★★ Hush Hush
Outstanding right facing flake up high guarded by a tough face move to get off the ground. Way steeper and pumpier than you think it will be. |
23
★★ Whistle Blower
Lovely orange rock from start to finish. Right trending start across line of pockets then up steep wall. Ask Monty about the leaf blower story. |
24
★★ Boosted
About 2m right of the far left end of the wall - just right of the short flake project. Short and intense with lots of bolts. Screw gate into the first bolt as an unclipped bolt will be the end of both belayer and climber. |
17
★ Belayer Bait
The far left right-facing flake. A great warmup (and excellent belayer bait)! |
The Upper Tier
The Upper Terrace above the main crag. Best access is by climbing Gumbo and continuing up to the anchor on the ledge. However, the terrace can be accessed by climbing any of the routes left of The Cabal and topping out. |
25
★★ Mum's the Word
Short, but packs a punch. The steepest route here! Starts at the cairn. Route is wet in rain. Gnarly start to gain 2nd bolt, then easier beautiful steep finger-jugging to the top. Consider adding to the cairn until you can reach the starting mono. The first ascensionist could only just reach the mono at full stretch on the first ascent. If you pull up the 2nd bolt, its an awesome gr23. |
The Platform
One of Africa's finest train stations. |
The Platform |
24
★★ Hot Hands
Jump for big juggy break, swing left then up crux crimps to small ledge. Continue up featured steep wall. |
24
★★ Pothole Causeway
Face 2m left of sandy corner. Intense sharp start, cruisy middle then harder sustained climbing for the last 4 bolts. Overhangs about 4m. |
22
★★ Ejector Seat
Sandy corner on right edge of ledge for 4m then straight up steep wall. Lots of jugs. Baffling move at bolt 3. |
22
★★ What Lurks Inside
Best warm-up here with an easy start that gets increasing pumpier up top. Starts up on the high ledge on the right side of crag. Rope up & climb sandy corner start of Ejector Seat to access this ledge and optional double bolt belay. Scramble up onto block then mantle into scoop to start. Best way to clean route is to get someone to 2nd it and they lower off back to the main platform. |
Adventure Park
Egypt's finest tree top adventure park. |
Adventure Park |
22
★★ Tanglefoot Arete
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
23
★ Flake Alternative
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
22
★★ Clock Rocking
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
23
★★★ Echo Chamber
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
25
★★ No End in Sight
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
24
★★ Muscle Memory
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
24
★★★ Vigilante
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
24
★★ Lazy Boy
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
26
★★★ Curfew
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
Project - Closed
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
26/27
★★★ No Country for Old Men
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
23
★★★ Sick Slick Slab
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
20
★ Oompa Loompas
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
22
★ Dividing Line
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
Ecstasy
Several prominent journalists have been killed in Egypt in recent years. |
Adventure Park Ecstasy |
25
★★★ Halo
Line on right side of wall. First pitch remains a closed project (stay off) - the pitches above are free to play on.
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24
★★★ After Life
Heavenly three star face climbing with a one star deduction for the exit shenanigans. This route requires rapping down an overhung wall - don't under estimate this. Practice at home not on this route and have the right gear! Gear: 140m of rap rope (possible to use 100m and then thread the lead rope for last rap), lead rope, 20 long draws, rope protector. No slings required. Descent: Fix rap rope to two hard to spot ringbolts on slab at top of wall (they are narrow and camo painted). Walk down slope for 10m then rap over edge (place rope protector here). Once over edge rap down dirt slope for 10m then down wall next to small cave. Continue down past cave and into steeper ground. Kick a bit to reach double bolts at top of pitch 3 (about 35m down from cliff top). Short fix on these bolts and continue rapping down - its about 80m to the ground from this belay (using a dynamic rope with stretch).
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24/25
★★★ On a String and a Prayer
A magnificent flake feature straight up the guts of the wall. Each pitch has merit - but the real wonder is in pitches 3 and 4 (which can be linked if your 2nd is up for it). Named after a scary worn Grigri rope cutting drama during first ascent attempts. Check your gear! Gear required: Route is entirely bolted and does not require bolt plates. 16 draws should keep you out of trouble (most pitches are 8 to 12 bolts). Three of the belays are hanging - so take your comfy harness and consider a couple of long slings to manage the rope on belay. Descent: Where you rap down will depend on how much you want to suss the route out in advance, have an escape jugging rope in bad weather and desire to leave cache of food/water/shoes. The cleanest simplest and boldest rap is tying 130m of rope together and rapping down After Life. This mean you have to carry everything up the route and must be able to obligatory climb around grade 22 above bolts. If you rap down the route itself the rope rarely gets in the way of the climbing itself (it's an overhung wall and the route traverses around a fair bit). If you have limited ropes then a fixed 50m rope from the top anchors will get you to belay anchors at top of pitch 4. From there you can rap and pull ropes down using 50m double ropes or a single 80m to the ground (in two raps).
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Red Site
Duh my bear wun yeah |
Red Site |
25
★★ The Worm That Doth Corrupt
Closed Project An eclectic collection of four pitches, all with mixed climbing up the left hand side of this impressive cliff. Bring a single set of nuts, a single set of cams from BD #0.1 to #4 and 14+ draws and extenders.
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