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Ich stimme zu
Icing on the cake today! 3rd shot (7th lap total over 2.5 years). This route was spoogy in the sun (a major contrast to Mr Wall today!), and on the 2nd lap I fell off on the last hard move to the jug... on the Send, I decided I was too tired for the micro-crimp tic-tac approach to the crux, so I tried dynoing from the last positive crimps to the jugs... and stuck it! Its about time. Thin, old-school, technical, and with a hell of a lot of climbing (and a lot of hard moves to get TO the crux). I'm coming for the last of your routes, Jenga!
3 more shots today. Perfect (icy) conditions, so no excuses, but still no send. On the 3rd lap, I executed perfectly all the way to the last move of the crux, when my left hand slipped off a polished 1/4 pad 2-finger crimp with my right a mere 2 inches from the victory jugs. You climb the hardest part of You Crazy Diamond, then increasingly difficulttechnicalface-moves (with thin stances in between) and a hyper-thin crux at 25m or so (where I fell all 3 times). Hard work!
One End of Day burn. Starts up the best bits of You Crazy Diamond (could it really be improved upon?), then heads out left and throws a super techy face/slab top half at you. 2 different and engaging cruxes, but generally sustained. Still needs to clean up a bit, but the climbing in consistently thin, balancy and thought-provoking. I think I could tick this in another shot or two, and its definately worth it.
Merry Christmas.
Another great new route at Diamond falls to flail on. Great long face route with a reachy high step pocket crux with plenty of technical and involved climbing to a high heart breaker finish.