Begehungen in Ikara Head haben Beta

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	Schwierigkeitsgrad	Route	Stil	Qualität	Kletterer
Mi 24. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20 ~19	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Brendan Coulter
Glorious hand crack, and an excellent start to the day. Almost as many threads as cams, and I managed to do only one fist jamb the whole way. Managed to get away with 1 x #3 and 1 x #4, but I’d imagine more sane people might want a double of #3
	19 schwer	★★★ Telstar	Traditionell 80m	★★ Sehr gut	Brendan Coulter
Not sure it quite lived up to the hype, but it’s definitely a unique position, and makes for some great exposure. Honestly, the crack after the roof felt like the hardest moves I’d pulled all day!
	22	★★★ Aladinsane	Traditionell 32m	★★ Sehr gut	Brendan Coulter
Fun finger locking with some nice techy footwork. I’m a pretty aggressive downgrader, but I didn’t feel like this was soft. Maybe I missed something 🤷🏻‍♂️ felt pretty good anyway
Do 11. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20 ~21	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Sunny G
Sick One!!!!
Di 2. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Blast Off	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	James Hockey
bring trad
Sa 30. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 ~23	★★★ Blast Off - mit Matt Clark 1 Nachstieg 2 Traditionell	Traditionell 80m		Ryan Macpherson
Pumped beyond repair off the ledge! Was so dang hot I could hold onto the slab
Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Ryan Macpherson 1 18 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Matt Clark 2 22 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Ryan Macpherson	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Matt Clark
Wild times in the heat! Will be back in winter for sure!
Do 28. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 schwer	★★★ Blast Off 1 Traditionell 2 Nachstieg	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Brendan Coulter
Incredible splitter crack, and no giveaway either. Would make a nice easy single-pitch stopping at the ledge, but the p2 finger crack is the money.
Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Henry Orton	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Aaron Wong
Really fun finger crack! A few intricate sequences that took me a bit to figure out but got there in the end. Must come back to redpoint.
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Henry Orton	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Aaron Wong
Super awesome crack! I could have done the bottom part so much easier by turning right and using the face holds. Instead I forgot about them and thrutched up the corner until the end. Top is sustained but very fun crack climbing. Deservedly popular route!
	18	★★ Reincarnation - mit Henry Orton	Traditionell 30m	★ Gut	Aaron Wong
A few good moves, but a lot of ordinary face moves otherwise. Traverse is a bit much for limited gain.
Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Jezebel P1 1 Traditionell	Traditionell 100m		Hannah Kennedy
the first pitch as a warmup
Mi 7. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	18	★★★ Blast Off P1 - mit Lia Sullivan 1 18 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Johnny Sullivan	Traditionell 80m		Johnny Sullivan
Couldn’t convince Lia to get up this so P1 only
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Lia Sullivan	Traditionell 32m		Johnny Sullivan
all the holds have gone… where have the jugs gone…
Sa 13. Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	Risshandschuh ★★★ Caladan - mit Christian Asencios Palmer, Izak	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Johnny Sullivan
Onsight but saw gear beta in the guidebook… I reckon this is the best rock climb I’ve ever been on
Fr 22. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Tom Bates	Traditionell 80m		Leah Soo
Exposure for the second out of the cave and onto the chimney was absolutely terrifying. Got a little too far up the chimney and it felt like Mr Chicken for a brief second. 3rd pitch requires some solid crack climbing skills
Mi 13. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Nick Gresham 1 18 30m Traditionell Rock quality was quite poor and not a lot of protection for the most part 2 17 15m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Nick Gresham Contrived to say the least! Awesome exposure 3 19 20m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Nick Gresham The money pitch for sure. Great jamming on this one 4 3 15m Traditionell	Traditionell 80m	★★ Sehr gut	Pedro Rocha
Very unique!
	20 leicht	★★★ Caladan - mit Nick Gresham	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Pedro Rocha
Absolute classic splitter!! Well worth the hike and possibly one of the best in the Mountains
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Felix 1 18 30 Traditionell 2 17 15 Traditionell 3 19 20 Traditionell 4 3 15 Traditionell	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Andrew Durrer
Brilliant climbing all the way up. Highlight was definitely the second and third pitches. Second pitch super exposed and required a bit of convincing to step out. Third pitch was a solid push through tight hand crack. Linked last 2 - 4 (or 2 - 3 in log book) pitches up to boulder anchor. Used 70m rope.
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit andrew 1 18 30m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch andrew 2 17 15m Traditionell Vorstieg durch andrew The money! Bouldery to get first established but super secure once inside. So good I even got stuck for a bit 3 19 20m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch andrew Epic climbing! Attempted proper crack technique by jamming and pumped out. 4 3 15m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch andrew	Traditionell 80m		Felix
A gorgeous mrga classic. The epicness of thr chimeny can be seen from below and is even better up close. Learned that even the jammiest of cracks can be lay backed with enough willpower.
Di 12. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Lee Prescott 1 18 30m Traditionell 2 17 15m Nachstieg 3 19 20m Nachstieg 4 3 15m Freies Solo	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Dylan Glavas
So fucking sick! The roof from the bottom is massive and gets bigger as you climb up!! Couldn't believe how cool it was following a line with no chalk, not common in the bluies!!!! Back in time for changers Chrissy dinner! A mega feast for a mega day!!
So 27. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Peter Melouney	Traditionell 80m		Peter
Had a sit just after the offwith section, everything else went with mental effort...
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Peter Melouney	Traditionell 32m		Peter
Back on it since my first try about 3 years ago.
Sa 26. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Peter	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Peter Melouney
Fantastic climbing and amazing jams. Probably the best crack I've done in the mountains.
So 20. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	25 ~28	★★★ Snakes & Ladders 1 Traditionell 2 Traditionell 3 Nachstieg	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Paul Frothy Thomson
I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad). P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link. Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it.
	25	★★★ Snakes & Ladders - mit Paul Frothy Thomson, Harry Kadi, Will Monks 1 20 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Will Vidler 2 35 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Will Vidler 3 25 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Will Vidler	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Will Vidler
One of the very best cracks in the mountains but I did not find it to be jugs. Seven days of effort, one some years ago and then recently three on TRS and three with partners. Thanks Paul for the send belay and Harry and Will for coming down on the other days to support. For the third pitch I did a long traverse right to meet up with Telstar placing no gear. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure up there but at least this way was easy...ish. Someone go do it and tell me what grade it is.
Sa 19. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 ~23	★★★ Blast Off — 2 Versuche - mit Knox Low	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Nikhilesh Sharma
Four sessions overall. Probably my hardest trad send to date. Pitch one is a classic in its own right. Beautiful off finger locks, some techy feet dancing. Overall a gentle warm up for the battle that's about to come up. Leads to one of most beautiful belays. Pitch two has it all one can ask for; boulder start for a rude howdy, an offwidth that first unnerves and then provides solace before the upcoming turmoil; place some good gear find the locks whose keys are hidden in good footwork and: crank, keep cranking, one last crank and you have made it. Not! One might classify the upcoming section as somewhat easier but let me assure you the pump in your forearms can make you muck up like Jamie Oliver trying to cook Asian cuisine. So hold it together! Your reward will be an iron stone stairway to the heavens. The ramble to top is just for you to contemplate the beauty of what you have just climbed and tame back the beast you had to channel from within. When you look back towards the valley from the rap chains, don't forget to thank the Creator. Gear beta: Double rack with a #5 cam and additional 0.5, 0.75. PS Post climb if you think Ikara can't get any better than this experientia, wait until you get on Jezebel P2.
Mi 16. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Seth	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Jacques Beaudoin
World class at the grade
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Seth 1 18 30 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Seth 2 17 15 Traditionell 3 19 20 Traditionell 4 3 15 Traditionell	Traditionell 80m		Jacques Beaudoin
Insane, I can imagine people freaking out on this one! Linked the 2-3-4 together.
	18	★★ Reincarnation - mit Seth	Traditionell 30m	★★ Sehr gut	Jacques Beaudoin
Really nice, end traverse unnecessary, should have anchors straight up at the break I reckon
	22 ~21	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Seth	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Jacques Beaudoin
Repeat, just too good not to be repeated
Sa 10. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Jezebel - mit ange 1 Traditionell 2 Nachstieg 3 Nachstieg	Traditionell 100m	★★★ Klassiker	Kat Liss
Loved the first pitch and the second really challenged me. So fun
	22	★★★ Jezebel	Traditionell 100m	★★ Sehr gut	Anzhela Malysheva
Continuous and sustained resting interdipersed with some good moves. A rite of passage for your trad momma badge. Pretty honest for the grade
So 4. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Sam Strong
Bit of Indian Creek about this pitch Thanks to Kelly for showing me this beautiful crag!
So 28. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Lars 1 18 30m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Peter 2 17 15m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Peter 3 19 20m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Peter 4 3 15m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Peter	Traditionell 80m		Peter
Lead 1and 2 pitch as one. Such an great day out.
	22 ~23	Risshandschuh ★★★ Blast Off - mit simo	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Anzhela Malysheva
Went on first go, unexpectedly. Much easier on the reptilian brain with the number 5 at hand. The hardest moves are off the deck
Mi 24. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 ~21	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Taib	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Jacques Beaudoin
Lost at Rock-Paper-Scissors for the onsight but the conveniently located tree combined with a sore neck preserved me from getting any info on my mate's ascent! Great climb, great moves, great rock, loved it!
Sa 20. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane — 3 Versuche	Traditionell 32m		Nikhilesh Sharma
Trigger alert! It's better than Blast off.
Mi 17. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Greg Blachon
Misread the last move, but really enjoyed the climb
	22	★★★ Aladinsane	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Greg Blachon
Gear was pre-placed up to the crux, so feels like a redpoint, but Im a purist. Not sure I agree with the ‘easy for the grade’ reputation, maybe compared to blast off? Still feels like proper 22 to me, or at least a very sustained 21
Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	23 schwer	Confidence Trick - mit Mieka	Sport 35m, 10		Michael Houghton
Really enjoy this style of climbing, had to go for it at the start!
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Mieka	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Michael Houghton
Great!
	22 ~23	★★★ Blast Off - mit Mieka 1 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Mieka 2 Toprope Vorstieg durch Mieka	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Michael Houghton
Fell out of the offwidth, and had a few more falls/ rests on the hard bits after that. Probably a combination of being late in the day, a scary exposed position, and just the fact that it's pretty damn hard!
Mi 10. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 ~23	★★★ Blast Off	Traditionell 80m		Anzhela Malysheva
Stiff. Spat out at the offwidth. Felt like a real battle for the first 15 mt of pitch too. Got spanked and loved it 😊 extremely high quality route
Mo 8. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	18	★★★ Blast Off 1 18 Traditionell	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Greg Blachon
Finished pitch 1 and turned back to see the hailstorm hitting the valley (and my belayer). Bailed off and tried Aladinsane. If the second pitch is the money, I now understand the hype about it, cause that first pitch is already quite a classic by itself!
So 7. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Luke C	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	David de Miguel
Soooo good and soooo close. I felt on the last move because my arms gave up. The climbing here is superb but make sure you don't go with temperature feels like -3 and a hail storm is going to drop on you to have a better experience Luke C the legend did a fabulous job and onsighted it. Despite the cold it was a fantastic day.
So 23. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Laurie Bristow	Traditionell 32m		Nat
Repeat.
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Laurie Bristow	Traditionell 32m		Nat
Team climb? Lead the finger crack up till the face climbing section and came down to let Laurie lead the rest of the climb from there. Slippery crimp + pull move to get through the face section 🫣. Lack mental capacity for these things.
Sa 22. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Nat	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Laurie Bristow
Wow. Wow. Wow! Gnarly fists into slightly wider, into a beautiful hands. Super pumped by the end but stellar climbing. How good!
	18	★★★ Blast Off P1 - mit Nat 1 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Laurie Bristow	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Laurie Bristow
First pitch only, lovely little route for some gear placement practice! Second pitch looked gnarly so we ran away. Plus it was a little sleepy todayy!
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Nat	Traditionell 32m		Laurie Bristow
Took before and after crux. Crux is harddd. First time on a proper finger jam line! Wicked climbing.
Sa 15. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22 schwer	★★★ Blast Off - mit Abi Prakash	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Knox Low
Had another go at Blast off today. Didn't get it clean but excellent moves. The off width pod I thought might be harder since the block at the bottom fell out but it hasn't really changed the grade as you can get a knee bar rest. Have to come back when I'm fitter to put all the pieces together
So 15. Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar	Traditionell 80m	★ Gut	Eric rixon
A bit spicy
Mo 2. Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Lucas Low 1 18 30m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Lucas Low 2 17 15m Traditionell 3 19 20m Traditionell 4 3 15m Traditionell	Traditionell 80m		Jack Prowse
Possibly didn't fully appreciate what we were getting ourselves into, the choss pile on the first pitch almost scared us off, the roof that didn't look so bad from the ground was commiting and runout without any big cams, the third pitch felt hard after a long stint in the hanging belay and mental fatigue of being scared out of my mind. Incredible route, not for the faint of heart but certainly worthwhile
Fr 30. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	James Hockey
Best single pitch crack I’ve done so far.
Do 29. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Jarrah Turner
Best crack I’ve climbed, lovely jams leading to a cool sequence up top. Wow.
	19	★★★ Telstar	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Jarrah Turner
1 and 3 are interesting climbing but 2 is as good as the ads. Somehow exposed and claustrophobic at the same time. Awesome. (Also justified my ownership of a #6)
Di 20. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit SwagAustralia, Claire Evans, Liam, Nico 1 18 30 Traditionell 2 17 15 Traditionell 3 19 20 Traditionell 4 3 15 Traditionell	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Alex Holroyd
Another epic roof crack ticked off, the most epic one of them all. We left camp only 45 minutes late again even after a flat battery and set the GPS to Ikara Head. It took us to the approach from the wrong side of the valley and set us back another half hour. We finally arrived at the crag at midday and Claire sunscreened up and fired up the first pitch, while I sheltered in a cave to protect the onsight. Frequent cries of "ROCK!" came down from above followed by strikes on the ground around us and on Manu's leg. I got sleepy and had to fire myself up again to lead the first pitch. After Liam seconded, I lead it carefully and on a good amount of bomber gear, before meeting Claire at the belay ledge. The tricky exposed stem-corner-under-roof-around-arete-to-stem-corner moves were particularly fun. The amount of suspect rock made it feel like mantling onto a sandcastle. Claire was sitting on a pile of choss like a dragon on top of her coins, and pointed to the (astonishingly) even more chossy part of the ledge. "I accidentally came from that way and had to crawl across the choss pile". I built the anchor as Claire ventured out across the roof after trying various backpack attachments. Manu seconded the first pitch slowed only by the multiple stuck nuts, which he verified were all "bomber". After some water and a nut bar, I threw aside all foreign thoughts and dared out across the void, placing lots of good small placements in rock that hummed with vibrations. I clipped the #8 dragon that Liam and Claire had left for me and awkwardly climbed out and onto the tiny ledge. Manu struggled mightily to do the start with the backpack hanging off him, eventually coming off and having to stoicly prussic back up into the roof. All of this had been eating daylight and my teeth were chattering with cold. I finally began the third pitch with all psyche gone and almost immediately had a tiny fall on one of the very much needed green cams. I sieged my way up with rests and falls as the daylight faded and stuck in a very overcammed totem, didn't extend it, and semi-blindly bouldered through the very steep jugs before arriving on a small vegetated ledge and seeing Claire standing across and up on the top. "Where are you going? I went this way and it was way easier". I had created so much rope drag that I had to build a belay and bring Manu up, his ascent lit only by the tiny LED on the top of the walkie talkie. He spent about 10 minutes getting my red totem back out from under the roof. I belayed Manu's scramble across to the top, and Claire belayed me up off a "bomber" small tree. We arrived back to the car at almost 11pm and headed straight for the Mt Vic servo, the staff watching us like we were aliens as we rolled in blaring 70s Brazilian jazz-funk, covered in zinc cream, rushed to the aid of the delivery people struggling to get a trolley full of drinks up the front step and gorged ourselves with sausage rolls and crispy M&Ms. We dodged the kangaroos home for a well deserved dinner around the fire.
Sa 17. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	17	Power Vacuum - mit Oliver McDonald	Traditionell 120m	Durchschnitt	Laurie Bristow
It seems this route has only been climbed once a decade since it was put up... First pitch was nice! Second pitch got interesting. Steep move to the right of the ledge covered in bushes and some mix of dead and alive trees. Bush bash through them then up to a layback before super easy slab section with minimal pro. Ollie slinged a dead tree for safety... Fun adventuring and wicked views from both belay ledges. Third pitch is basically a walk out. There's a nice stone you can wrap for an anchor at the top. Minimal trees for anchors.
Mo 12. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Alex Holroyd, SwagAustralia 1 18 30m Traditionell 2 17 15m Nachstieg 3 19 20m Traditionell 4 3 15m Traditionell	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Claire Evans
Telstar where to begin... well if you read the previous entry from Alex you'll get his recollection of the day so here is mine! It all started one night as we were flicking through the book and saw a photo of the climb, it looked outrageous and we were obsessed. Weeks earlier when arriving in the bluies I said I wasn't leading any trad with the exception of eternity. After leading this I was hooked on crack once again and this goal of telstar didn't feel impossible. You'll note from alex we started the day with a dead car battery and going to the wrong car park but eventually we made our way there. Gorgeous hike in with the muddy track providing a soft landing when I slipped and fell. Arriving at the base of the climb and looking up at this imposing roof crack, we had made it. Weeks of talk had finally turned into something, unlike bunny but who wants to clip bolts when you can go on wild trad adventures? I lead the first pitch, some committing moves and questionable rock but overall very engaging and fun. I got to the ledge below the first belay spot and could see the end of pitch 1, only a couple more moves and i was at the start of the bombay chimney. I opted to keep more right as it seemed the better option but quickly realised how wrong I was. I ended up too far right but couldn't down climb so I had to commit. I start climbing up and realise I'd be topping out on complete choss I was terrified. The foot holds disappeared and the 'hand holds' were large blocks that would fall off if I grabbed onto them. I committed to the scariest mantel onto choss yelling ROCK far too frequently. I got up and somehow was safe but then had to crawl to the left along the loose rock to where the belay was, somehow I had made it safely. Liam seconded this climb and then smashed out the next pitch. We went as two parties and Alex lead the first pitch so he go to join me at the belay spot, both trying to not knock off any more rocks as we navigated the choss pile. He watch me terrified to start the chimney and had the camera out to record it. Getting in was the hardest part but once I did I absolutely loved it. Finally the last pitch, what I'd been waiting for. A beautiful finger crack which was completely new terrain for me. I set off jamming and placed the 0.75 before taking my first whip on gear! I fell ending back at the hanging belay so ended up redoing it from the start and managed to send it! The best crack climb I've done so far, sustained and technical with beautiful moves. Getting to the top as the sun was shining and appreciating this amazing experience in the most beautiful place. Liam and I enjoyed the view while waiting for Alex and Manu. We were starving and dehydrated but figured the others wouldn't be long... oh so wrong. Turns out while we were soaking in the sun they were having an epic! Manu fell off the chimney and it turned into a mission to get back on. 5:30 quickly turned into 8:30 and still no sign of them. We switched the radio on and alex responds just starting the last pitch, oh no this was going to be a long one. I respond 'onsight or whip' before waiting patiently. I wait where I though alex would top out yet he appeared on top of a pillar way too low. He responded 'I can't go any further the rope drag is too bad' as he tells me of the stuck cam and V1 boulder problem it took to get there. Much different to the chill scrambling I opted for but he had arrived just in time before light disappeared. Manu smashed out the last pitch in the dark and managed to free Alex's totem, it was almost gone forever. I then made a quick belay at where I'd topped out so Alex and manu could scramble over safely while being safe. Tired, hungry and dehydrated we powered on back to the car and DEMOLISHED the up&go's I had left in the car. Arriving back at camp around 11pm and demolishing pasta at midnight as we laughed at the day we had. THE BEST DAY EVER! The most amazing climb I've done and amazing friends share this experience again, 10/10 will do this again.
Do 1. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Ash	Traditionell 32m		Anton Korsun
Kept nervously awaiting the crux on each sequence... it never came 🥲
	16	★ The Titan - mit Ash	Traditionell 30m		Anton Korsun
Rebolt... and downclimb. Way better than it looks, bomber gear and rock the whole way and not dirty at all.
So 30. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Tim M-S	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Lisa Vitaris
If this is indeed 22, then all the other 22s have to be downgraded. First pitch is one of the best of not the best finger cracks at the grade in the Blueies and super fun. Starting the second pitch is head-scratching, super strenuous, insecure, in a word hard. If you’re rapping off make sure you have two ropes or a piece of cordelette to leave behind if you don’t mind rapping off very shallow bollards.
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Tim M-S	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Lisa Vitaris
Not recommended as a warm up especially if you haven’t done any hard trad for a while. Fantastic rock. Sustained.
So 16. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	18	★★ Reincarnation - mit ash 'badboi' brennan	Traditionell 30m		Jake Delaney
Omg Ash promised me give metres of traverse. It felt like a lifetime. Also traverse holds were reeeeal sandy. Overall a great climb though!
	18	★★★ Blast Off (Blast Off P1) - mit ash 'badboi' brennan 1 18 80m Vorstieg durch Jake Delaney	Traditionell 80m		Jake Delaney
Just pitch one, pitch 2 looks haaaaard. One day... But everyone get on pitch one! Great but short pitch of finger crack!
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit ash 'badboi' brennan	Traditionell 32m		Jake Delaney
Omg thank glob. Big ups to frog being my training ground for this send. And my fresh ass alturas. Live. Laugh. Love. Butora.
So 5. Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	24 22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Pat	Traditionell 80m		Ben Taylor
Had a go, didn’t work out . Got through the start after a few falls and up to the off width. Tried desperately to get established without dislodging the block onto Pat and other parties but in the end it came loose and I threw it off. Will be back in slightly warmer and less windy conditions !!
Mo 14. Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Johnny Sullivan, Jack Seawright	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Will West
Couldn't have possibly asked for a better day out with a better crew. A previous crag review mentions the approach to Telstar feeling like a trail from the fellowship of the ring, and it couldn't be more accurate. Descending gulleys and swamp trails to a creek, a log traverse, then following trickling clifflines until you're suddenly in this sunburnt slab of impeccable sandstone away from civilization, and in th blazing sun - which while not adding to the enjoyment of sweaty climbing - definitely adds to the mystique of the crag. Jack powered up the relatively cruisy first pitch with no issues and perched himself on the shady belay while I went up on second. Communication below the boulder on pitch one is quite hard, which was particularly unfortunate for me as I went to chimney up the section, realise all the gear in my bag made it impossible to chimney, then went down to put all the gear I was carrying on my harness. I then went to resume climbing, got half way up the chimney and started yelling TAKE!! As I had a mile of slack between me and the ledge only to hear my phone buzzing with Jack on the other end wonder what on earth was going on as he couldn't hear me, then I was back on belay and up the pitch without a hitch. Throughout pitch one I could hear Yim intermittently grunt as he traversed through the chimney, giving me plenty of time to think about what I was about to do to myself. Jack and I patiently waiting Yim and Johnny to finish pitch 3 so that we could begin our assault. The tranquil silence of birdsong and rushing rivers frequently broke only by us breaking our one rule of the day - not to fart in the Chimney. Once Johnny was away, it was time to shape up. I thought about the first move for a long time before even thinking about commiting, cursing my lack of yoga practice the entire time. I extended Yim's aiding system in preparation for failure then thought I should give it one last go. Committed then freed the entire pitch onsight, incredibly stoked. The final piece was a #6 where the chimney widens, with no other real gear options aside from more #6 placements, pretty critical for the pitch. Definitely had some moments of realisation with my massive runout as the chimney turned into a face climb that a fall would be quite fucked, especially without a helmet on as I had taken it off for the squeeze. So I refused to leave the chimney and chicken winged and kneebarred my way up to the jug at the belay, an absolute grunting battle the whole way. Pitch three was nails and had me aiding on cams like there was no tomorrow - note: brand new tc pros should be broken in before you take them on 4 pitches of above your limit Trad in the sun, my toes were absolutely suffering by this point. From here we bashed our way to the top to catch the incredible moonlit sunset and raced to find a pub that was open at 9;30 on a Monday night, most deserved beers I've ever had.
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Jack Seawright	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Will West
I'll tell ya what, doing a singular hand jamming lead up Faki (15) at Frog doesn't quite prepare you for what's referred to as one of the best 20 hand cracks in the country. Watching Jack absolutely cruise up this climb for the onsight was nothing short of inspiring for my barely birthed crack career. Yim shouting out "Jack you have no gear" as Jack soloed up the first 7m of the climb before his first placement definitely instilled some confidence in the security of the jams, and it absolutely did not disappoint. I summoned the wideboys and I didn't have to take my first sit until over halfway up the splitter handcrack. Couldn't be happier, felt incredibly secure and it just flowed. Definitely had to fight as it thinned out a bit, then had to do a V8 hand jam gear removal+ mantle at the top to get to the awkwardly placed belay. Phenomenal climbing to warm us up for Telstar.
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit , Will West, Johnny Sullivan	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Jack Seawright
Telstar! Apparently the ultimate battleground for epic crag reviews. Ill do my best. Fontaines took us to the better land through the dirt trail to ikara head. We had recruited johnny for our 4 man party the day before after hearing he had done his first trad lead at zig zag. 'A spicy chimney traverse dude, youll be fine'. After will reminded me this was the first of many routes he had linked me via messenger in the lead up to this trip, there was no stopping the stoke train. Our rough plan was yim leads team 1 through all pitches setting up slingage for optional aid incase anyone wigs out in the chimney. Johnny partnered with him for the day and will and i paired up. I took the opportunity to have a stab at caladan which was one of if not the best single pitch of climbing ive ever done! Tricky anchor placement for will on second tryna knock off the crux though. We rapped down and lunched on the ground while the other boys started up telstar. After a premature belay and subsequent relocation from yim, 3 of us were up in the 'alcove' the word that apparently confused yim. He fired off the chimney and set up the gear as wed discussed. Johnny punched on through on second. 'Are you still talking?' Johnny lashed mid-crux as yim muttered some probably useless shit from the belay above. Will and i sat in the shade and chatted all things things and laughed at johnnys almost timetable reliable spitting from the belay above until the fateful 'climbing' call from johnny signalling that wills time had come. After dipping his foot in the first aid sling and not liking it, will neglected aid and just sent the pitch free with more pure chimney technique than all of us face hold prancers put together. I paid for yims gear usage fee in the form of a chunk of knuckle skin trying to get a particularly sturdy wire out of the roof. Pitch 3 was quite tiring but went off without hitches.. climbs really well. We trooped up the final slab on hip belays with the boys all ready yelling at us to just solo. Apparently abit of an alpha tussle between johnny and yim after yim asked his 'slave' (johnny) to fill his water in the morning. This was more than resolved post climb with both gents refering to eachother as 'boss'. It was truly the better land at top out. Brilliant hazy post sunset with an almost full moon casting light on pierces. We trooped back to the car and rolled through blackheath in search of a pub and to our surprise, it was open (9:30pm monday). A round was bought and 1 particular patron was intregued greatly by my water bladder in the pub and what it contained. Luckily didnt attract the bartenders attention, would have looked abit iffy. But yeah nah yeah there ya have it, the boys did telstar. One for the books.
Fr 17. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit mitch lindbeck	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Trent
Great fun. I led the roof.
Di 14. Dez 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit rob 1 18 30m 2 17 15m 3 19 20m 4 3 15m	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Myles
Struggled getting into the chimney and took a swing.. thats why we bring prussiks 😂
So 24. Okt 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane	Traditionell 32m		Dmitry Linkov
first go - placing gear and figuring out moves. second go on preplaced gear - clean. One of the best finger cracks around!
So 17. Okt 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane	Traditionell 32m	★★ Sehr gut	Gavin
Lovely clean crack, with more locks than laybacks supprisingly. Probably soft for 22, i don't think it was harder than The Kraken or maybe even Caladan for instance. Rap inspected from Reincarnation, not that it helped.
	18	★★ Reincarnation	Traditionell 30m	★★★ Klassiker	Gavin
Really enjoyed this, interesting moves all the way leading to a spicy traverse. Why does the guide not give it stars?
	22	★★★ Jezebel	Traditionell 100m	★ Gut	Gavin
Well its a killer line. But bloody unpleasant offwidthing. Also crazy hard for the grade.
So 3. Okt 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Zuni Dierk	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Chris Lam
Fell off 5m from the top which is kind of the cruxy section. Great climb.
Do 30. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar	Traditionell 80m		Dmitry Linkov
1st pitcn - nothing impressive, average rock and a few hardish moves. I think it's best to belay not directly below chimney but rather on a ledge few meters below by the sandy block.. 2nd pitch - brilliant in its uniqueness. good gear and really safe especially if you bring #6. I'd say it's best to build a semi-hanging belay rather than continue up pitch 3 especially if you second is not very strong - they will need your encouragement:) 3rd pitch - couple of hard opening moves while the rest is not too hard. It's best to keep a few #1s for belay at the end of this pitch. I used them all on the pitch and had a hard time finding good pro options. 4th pitch - not sure my leader went the correct way, probably too far to the left which made it harder
So 26. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	23 22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Patrick Sparks	Traditionell 80m		Anton Korsun
With uni late the night before, and work that arvo, we set out for a speedy smash 'n grab. Rapped in. Sent. Walked out via lower track. Didn't get fired. If I say nothing of getting Pat's ropes hopelessly stuck, the day was almost perfect! Lovely views of climbers enjoying Telstar too 😉
Sa 18. Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	18	★★★ Blast Off 1 18 20m 2	Traditionell 20m		Anton Korsun
A veritable waterfall. Shhh Pat, don't tell them we left booty...🤫
	18	★★★ Blast Off P1 - mit Anton Korsun 1 18 20m Vorstieg durch Anton Korsun	Traditionell 20m		Patrick Sparks
What was meant to be a rest day. Belaying Anton on his first go on Lead. Seconded my way up to the belay ledge. Anton gave it a fair go until the weather turned from bad to worse, and soon the crack became a waterfall. Bailed on some nuts and called it a day.
Sa 14. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	18	★★ Reincarnation	Traditionell 30m		Dmitry Linkov
nice face climbing with excellent gear and not so excellent rock. travers is the cherry on top. BEWARE of falling rocks. 2 fist size rocks flew pretty close when I was at the anchors
	20	★★★ Caladan	Traditionell 32m		Dmitry Linkov
great climb! onsight got ruined by the last sequence just before the anchors where crack gets super thin
Mo 9. Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Snakes & Ladders (Snakes & Ladders P1) - mit Zac Lazatin 1 19 30m Vorstieg durch Anton Korsun	Traditionell 30m		Anton Korsun
I don't know if what I climbed has just seen its first ascent, but for the self-preservation of prospective ascentionists and their belayers, I hope it's seen its last. A grand adventure of strangely masochistic attraction, that follows whichever stack of hollow blocks appears to pose less chance of death. Keen for pitch 2, but Zac's leading this next time 🙃.
Fr 30. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	23	★★★ Blast Off - mit Ben Sanford 1 18 20 Vorstieg durch Will Vidler 2 23 50 Vorstieg durch Will Vidler	Traditionell 70m	★★★ Klassiker	Will Vidler
All this talk about how this is really only 19 and we are all just fucking soft inspired me to come back and finish it off. Rapped in, top roped the business to warm up, then rapped to the ground and did both pitches. The weather was truly superb and it turns out it's all actually pretty easy when you know where the foot holds are (especially now that the offwidth is clean). I also did a sick layback transition to hand jam flowz move above gear which pleased me greatly. I like rock climbing.
Mo 12. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Jezebel 1 22 100m Vorstieg durch Justine Jenkins 2 3	Traditionell 100m	★★ Sehr gut	Justine Jenkins
This route was wild. I def could have brought a hell of a lot more gear (2s and 3s for the first pitch). We only did about half of pitch 2, but it was nails and could use a bit of gardening. I will def come back and try the second pitch again.
So 4. Jul 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Aladinsane - mit Hugh Ward	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	hugh sutherland
One of the best crack climbs in the mountains. Sustained on glorious rock.
	22	★★★ Jezebel - mit Hugh Ward	Traditionell 100m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	hugh sutherland
Still desperate
	22	★★★ Jezebel - mit Hugh Ward	Traditionell 100m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	hugh sutherland
Still desperate
Mi 23. Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	23	★★★ Blast Off - mit Harry Kadi 1 18 20m Vorstieg durch Harry Kadi 2 23 50m Vorstieg durch Will Vidler	Traditionell 70m	★★★ Klassiker	Will Vidler
Had a bit of a medium time in the wind and the cold. I fell off after getting really scared trying to climb the offwidth without using the hideously loose blocks wedged in the crack. I don't know how other recent ascensionists navigated them because, after getting the rope a bit higher, I lowered down and pulled them out with very very little effort. There is still one wedged in there that is quite loose but seems to pose less of a threat to the life of one's rope or belayer. After these shenanigans Harry got quite cold so I just went to the top and he came up and we walked off. Great climb that I'll finish this winter.
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Will Vidler	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Klassiker	Harry Kadi
Trad ckimbing at its best! interesting gear, funky climbing and perfect hand cracks!
	22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Will Vidler 1 18 30 Vorstieg durch Harry Kadi 2 22 50 Vorstieg durch Will Vidler	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Harry Kadi
Froze on the ledge in the wind while will was questing and couldnt function well enough to fight through the pump
So 20. Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	22	★★★ Blast Off - mit Vicky Chen 1 17 15m Vorstieg durch rickau 2 22 55m Vorstieg durch Vicky Chen	Traditionell 70m		rickau
Had to french free the second pitch. I found the move out of the belay stance to be the hardest part with the rest of the climb being a mega endurofest with a couple more cruxes peppered in. Truly impressive send by Vicky!
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Vicky Chen	Traditionell 32m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	rickau
Really enjoyed this climb! Three distinct sections with some memorable features in the middle section. There's also a touch of spice at the end, almost blew it with a foot slip.
Fr 18. Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Sean Peters 1 18 30m Vorstieg durch Sean Peters 2 17 15m Vorstieg durch Dean 3 19 40m Vorstieg durch Sean Peters	Traditionell 85m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Dean
Fun! P1 Sean went right of the block. Interesting moves in corners and under rooflets. Sean belayed at a stance a few metres below the roof rather than right under the roof, which I think was a much better setup for P2. P2 was easier and better protected than I expected - I just dipped up off the shelves and then traversed out on great feet? Was glad to have the 6 and no pack. I was squeezed in hard enough that my helmet stopped me from turning my head. P3 tricky start - I got a high left foot and swung up the face rather than finesse the ringlocks. Gear: occasional wire, 1x .3-.5, 3x .75-1, 2x 2, 1x 3,4,6. Extremely do not recommend rapping off the inviting-looking 'Snakes and Ladders' U-bolts to get back down - you will not be able to pull your ropes from the next set of bolts.
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Tom Bes 1 18 30m Vorstieg durch Tom Bes 2 17 15m Vorstieg durch Jake Delaney 3 19 20m Vorstieg durch Jake Delaney 4 3 15m Vorstieg durch Tom Bes	Traditionell 80m		Jake Delaney
i am finally alive. thanks telstar. life doesn't start until telstar. life pre-telstar is a fiction.
	20	★★★ Caladan - mit Tom Bes	Traditionell 32m		Jake Delaney
easily my most pathetic attempt on a crack ever. a low point in my career i hope. 1st third is delightful. middle third is classic 3 dimensional bluies nightmare climbing with weird gear (climbing itself is fine) - bring all the big stuff you own, something i refuse to do time and time again, and i almost quit climbing time and time again because of it. top third should have gone no problemo as its bomber hands most of the way. but im weak as pee pee. ill be back. despite all of this - i will say this a climb all should jump on if you have wandered out here. well worth all the hype (as is all of ikara) that is if you manage to climb telstar in under 5 hours, something i have never managed to accomplished, even when i bailed off it (my previous low point - big thanks to ikara for always coming through with the goods and providing me with waking nightmares that endure for 12 months until i find myself back here seeking out my next waking nightmare).
Mo 14. Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Hugh Sutton 1 Vorstieg durch Hugh Sutton 2 Vorstieg durch Justine Jenkins 3 Vorstieg durch Justine Jenkins 4 Vorstieg durch Hugh Sutton	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Klassiker	Justine Jenkins
This route was as other-worldly as everyone said. I found a #6 worth bringing for the second pitch, but you should still expect a huge runnout even with it.
So 13. Jun 2021 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head
	19	★★★ Telstar - mit Cedric 1 18 30m 3 19 30m 4 3 20m	Traditionell 80m	★★★ Mega-Klassiker	Josephine Roper
One of the wildest things I’ve ever climbed, incredible. Can’t claim to have worked out how to get in the roof, because I tried a few times, got stuck and eventually hung and restarted at the same height, but completely different body position. Will try Cédric’s way next time. The rest of the chimney I found fun and chill, but glad we brought a #6 otherwise it’d be pretty scary getting out of the chimney to the fingercrack. Which is not a finger crack anyway for me it’s a disgusting ring locking size 😅 but the hard bit is short. Pitch 3 has the beautiful virtue of getting gradually easier as you get pumpeder, and pitch 1 also has some entertaining sections, so it's all good value. I was low on gear after somewhat inadvertently linking, so was dismayed to find the tree at the end of P3 is totally dead. (I guess it does say 'belay at tree' not 'belay tree'...). I stopped a little lower where there were some medium cams and a smaller dead tree, which gave my second a bit of an anxiety attack when he got there and couldn't see the best cam yet, only an ok one and a slung dead branch... In short, assume gear belay, not tree. We used a descent mentioned in my old guidebook: walk down a deep gully to the west, then rap 35m to the ground. Avoids multiple rappels or needing two ropes. Currently has a good rope and maillon around a big tree.

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