Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mi 24. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 ~19 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
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19 schwer | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Not sure it quite lived up to the hype, but it’s definitely a unique position, and makes for some great exposure.
Honestly, the crack after the roof felt like the hardest moves I’d pulled all day! |
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun finger locking with some nice techy footwork.
I’m a pretty aggressive downgrader, but I didn’t feel like this was soft. Maybe I missed something 🤷🏻♂️ felt pretty good anyway |
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Mo 15. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - mit Scott | 80m | |||||
Do 11. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 ~21 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Sick One!!!!
|
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
JEEEZUS
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Di 2. Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
bring trad
|
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Sa 30. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 |
★★★ Blast Off
- mit
Matt Clark
1
2
| 80m | |||||
Pumped beyond repair off the ledge! Was so dang hot I could hold onto the slab
|
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Fr 29. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Blast Off
- mit
Ryan Macpherson
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Wild times in the heat! Will be back in winter for sure!
|
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19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | |||||
Do 28. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 schwer |
★★★ Blast Off
1
2
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Incredible splitter crack, and no giveaway either. Would make a nice easy single-pitch stopping at the ledge, but the p2 finger crack is the money.
|
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Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Henry Orton | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Really fun finger crack! A few intricate sequences that took me a bit to figure out but got there in the end. Must come back to redpoint.
|
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Henry Orton | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Super awesome crack! I could have done the bottom part so much easier by turning right and using the face holds. Instead I forgot about them and thrutched up the corner until the end.
Top is sustained but very fun crack climbing. Deservedly popular route! |
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation - mit Henry Orton | 30m | ★ Gut | ||||
A few good moves, but a lot of ordinary face moves otherwise. Traverse is a bit much for limited gain.
|
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Sa 17. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
1
18
30
2
17
15
3
19
20
Ended up having to Dog off the belay after the rain came in, made it slippery as!
4
3
15
| 80m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Jezebel P1
1
| 100m | |||||
the first pitch as a warmup
|
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Di 13. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
1
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | |||||
Mi 7. Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Blast Off P1
- mit
Lia Sullivan
| 80m | |||||
Couldn’t convince Lia to get up this so P1 only
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Lia Sullivan | 32m | |||||
all the holds have gone… where have the jugs gone…
|
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So 21. Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Sa 13. Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | Risshandschuh ★★★ Caladan - mit Christian Asencios Palmer, Izak | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Onsight but saw gear beta in the guidebook…
I reckon this is the best rock climb I’ve ever been on |
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Fr 22. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - mit Tom Bates | 80m | |||||
Exposure for the second out of the cave and onto the chimney was absolutely terrifying. Got a little too far up the chimney and it felt like Mr Chicken for a brief second. 3rd pitch requires some solid crack climbing skills
|
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Mi 13. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
Nick Gresham
1
18
30m
Rock quality was quite poor and not a lot of protection for the most part
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Very unique!
|
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20 leicht | ★★★ Caladan - mit Nick Gresham | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Absolute classic splitter!! Well worth the hike and possibly one of the best in the Mountains
|
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
Felix
1
18
30
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Brilliant climbing all the way up. Highlight was definitely the second and third pitches. Second pitch super exposed and required a bit of convincing to step out. Third pitch was a solid push through tight hand crack. Linked last 2 - 4 (or 2 - 3 in log book) pitches up to boulder anchor. Used 70m rope.
|
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
andrew
1
18
30m
Vorstieg durch
andrew
2
17
15m
Vorstieg durch
andrew
The money! Bouldery to get first established but super secure once inside. So good I even got stuck for a bit
3
19
20m
Vorstieg durch
andrew
Epic climbing! Attempted proper crack technique by jamming and pumped out.
4
3
15m
Vorstieg durch
andrew
| 80m | |||||
A gorgeous mrga classic. The epicness of thr chimeny can be seen from below and is even better up close. Learned that even the jammiest of cracks can be lay backed with enough willpower.
|
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Di 12. Dez 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
Lee Prescott
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
So fucking sick! The roof from the bottom is massive and gets bigger as you climb up!! Couldn't believe how cool it was following a line with no chalk, not common in the bluies!!!! Back in time for changers Chrissy dinner! A mega feast for a mega day!!
|
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Mi 25. Okt 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mi 6. Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | |||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | |||||
So 27. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Peter Melouney | 80m | |||||
Had a sit just after the offwith section, everything else went with mental effort...
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Peter Melouney | 32m | |||||
Back on it since my first try about 3 years ago.
|
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Sa 26. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Peter | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Fantastic climbing and amazing jams. Probably the best crack I've done in the mountains.
|
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22 schwer | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Peter | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 leicht | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Peter | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
So 20. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
25 ~28 |
★★★ Snakes & Ladders
1
2
3
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad).
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link. Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it. |
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25 | ★★★ Snakes & Ladders - mit Paul Frothy Thomson, Harry Kadi, Will Monks | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
One of the very best cracks in the mountains but I did not find it to be jugs. Seven days of effort, one some years ago and then recently three on TRS and three with partners. Thanks Paul for the send belay and Harry and Will for coming down on the other days to support. For the third pitch I did a long traverse right to meet up with Telstar placing no gear. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure up there but at least this way was easy...ish. Someone go do it and tell me what grade it is.
|
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Sa 19. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off — 2 Versuche - mit Knox Low | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Four sessions overall. Probably my hardest trad send to date.
Pitch one is a classic in its own right. Beautiful off finger locks, some techy feet dancing. Overall a gentle warm up for the battle that's about to come up. Leads to one of most beautiful belays. Pitch two has it all one can ask for; boulder start for a rude howdy, an offwidth that first unnerves and then provides solace before the upcoming turmoil; place some good gear find the locks whose keys are hidden in good footwork and: crank, keep cranking, one last crank and you have made it. Not! One might classify the upcoming section as somewhat easier but let me assure you the pump in your forearms can make you muck up like Jamie Oliver trying to cook Asian cuisine. So hold it together! Your reward will be an iron stone stairway to the heavens. The ramble to top is just for you to contemplate the beauty of what you have just climbed and tame back the beast you had to channel from within. When you look back towards the valley from the rap chains, don't forget to thank the Creator. Gear beta: Double rack with a #5 cam and additional 0.5, 0.75. PS Post climb if you think Ikara can't get any better than this experientia, wait until you get on Jezebel P2. |
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Mi 16. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Seth | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
World class at the grade
|
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19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
Seth
1
18
30
Vorstieg durch
Seth
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | |||||
Insane, I can imagine people freaking out on this one! Linked the 2-3-4 together.
|
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation - mit Seth | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Really nice, end traverse unnecessary, should have anchors straight up at the break I reckon
|
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22 ~21 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Seth | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Repeat, just too good not to be repeated
|
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Sa 5. Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | |||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | |||||
Sa 24. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit alyssa smirnov | 32m | |||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit alyssa smirnov | 32m | |||||
Sa 10. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Blast Off P1
- mit
ange
1
| 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 |
★★★ Jezebel
- mit
ange
1
2
3
| 100m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Loved the first pitch and the second really challenged me. So fun
|
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22 | ★★★ Jezebel | 100m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Continuous and sustained resting interdipersed with some good moves. A rite of passage for your trad momma badge.
Pretty honest for the grade
|
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So 4. Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Bit of Indian Creek about this pitch
Thanks to Kelly for showing me this beautiful crag!
|
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So 28. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - mit Lars | 80m | |||||
Lead 1and 2 pitch as one.
Such an great day out.
|
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22 ~23 | Risshandschuh ★★★ Blast Off - mit simo | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Went on first go, unexpectedly. Much easier on the reptilian brain with the number 5 at hand. The hardest moves are off the deck
|
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18 | ★★ Reincarnation | 30m | |||||
18 | ★★ Sponsored by the State | 110m, 6 | |||||
Mi 24. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Blast Off
- mit
Taib
2
Vorstieg durch
Jacques Beaudoin
I got to say I had to fight real hard as I made several errors in a row towards the end of the crux and launched for a jug to the left and almost peeled off. Won't forget this one in a while! I have to thank the folks who cleaned/scrubbed this pitch, it had a reputation of being dirty and scary, it's great now good job! | 80m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 ~21 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Taib | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Lost at Rock-Paper-Scissors for the onsight but the conveniently located tree combined with a sore neck preserved me from getting any info on my mate's ascent! Great climb, great moves, great rock, loved it!
|
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Sa 20. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane — 3 Versuche | 32m | |||||
Trigger alert! It's better than Blast off.
|
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Mi 17. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Misread the last move, but really enjoyed the climb
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Gear was pre-placed up to the crux, so feels like a redpoint, but Im a purist. Not sure I agree with the ‘easy for the grade’ reputation, maybe compared to blast off? Still feels like proper 22 to me, or at least a very sustained 21
|
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Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
23 schwer | Confidence Trick - mit Mika | 35m, 10 | |||||
Really enjoy this style of climbing, had to go for it at the start!
|
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Mika | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Great!
|
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22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Mika | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Fell out of the offwidth, and had a few more falls/ rests on the hard bits after that. Probably a combination of being late in the day, a scary exposed position, and just the fact that it's pretty damn hard!
|
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Mi 10. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 ~23 | ★★★ Blast Off | 80m | |||||
Stiff. Spat out at the offwidth. Felt like a real battle for the first 15 mt of pitch too. Got spanked and loved it 😊 extremely high quality route
|
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Mo 8. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
18 |
★★★ Blast Off
1
18
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Finished pitch 1 and turned back to see the hailstorm hitting the valley (and my belayer). Bailed off and tried Aladinsane. If the second pitch is the money, I now understand the hype about it, cause that first pitch is already quite a classic by itself!
|
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So 7. Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Luke C | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Soooo good and soooo close. I felt on the last move because my arms gave up.
The climbing here is superb but make sure you don't go with temperature feels like -3 and a hail storm is going to drop on you to have a better experience Luke C the legend did a fabulous job and onsighted it. Despite the cold it was a fantastic day. |
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20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | |||||
Di 25. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
So 23. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Laurie Bristow | 32m | |||||
Repeat.
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Laurie Bristow | 32m | |||||
Team climb? Lead the finger crack up till the face climbing section and came down to let Laurie lead the rest of the climb from there. Slippery crimp + pull move to get through the face section 🫣. Lack mental capacity for these things.
|
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Sa 22. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Nat | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Wow. Wow. Wow! Gnarly fists into slightly wider, into a beautiful hands. Super pumped by the end but stellar climbing. How good!
|
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18 |
★★★ Blast Off P1
- mit
Nat
1
Vorstieg durch
Laurie Bristow
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
First pitch only, lovely little route for some gear placement practice! Second pitch looked gnarly so we ran away. Plus it was a little sleepy todayy!
|
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Nat | 32m | |||||
Took before and after crux. Crux is harddd. First time on a proper finger jam line! Wicked climbing.
|
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Sa 15. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 schwer | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Abi Prakash | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Had another go at Blast off today. Didn't get it clean but excellent moves. The off width pod I thought might be harder since the block at the bottom fell out but it hasn't really changed the grade as you can get a knee bar rest. Have to come back when I'm fitter to put all the pieces together
|
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Sa 1. Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mo 6. Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
alyssa smirnov
2
17
15
Vorstieg durch
Blueoffset4lyf
Awkward gaining chimney Rad exposure Chossy #6 cam might save the runout
3
19
20
Vorstieg durch
Blueoffset4lyf
Rad and exposed, need proper crack techniques required but not sustained | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
So 15. Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★ Gut | ||||
A bit spicy
|
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Mo 2. Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar - mit Lucas Low | 80m | |||||
Possibly didn't fully appreciate what we were getting ourselves into, the choss pile on the first pitch almost scared us off, the roof that didn't look so bad from the ground was commiting and runout without any big cams, the third pitch felt hard after a long stint in the hanging belay and mental fatigue of being scared out of my mind. Incredible route, not for the faint of heart but certainly worthwhile
|
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Fr 30. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Best single pitch crack I’ve done so far.
|
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19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Do 29. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Best crack I’ve climbed, lovely jams leading to a cool sequence up top. Wow.
|
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19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
1 and 3 are interesting climbing but 2 is as good as the ads. Somehow exposed and claustrophobic at the same time. Awesome. (Also justified my ownership of a #6)
|
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Di 20. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
SwagAustralia, Claire Evans, Liam, Nico
1
18
30
2
17
15
3
19
20
4
3
15
| 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Another epic roof crack ticked off, the most epic one of them all. We left camp only 45 minutes late again even after a flat battery and set the GPS to Ikara Head. It took us to the approach from the wrong side of the valley and set us back another half hour. We finally arrived at the crag at midday and Claire sunscreened up and fired up the first pitch, while I sheltered in a cave to protect the onsight. Frequent cries of "ROCK!" came down from above followed by strikes on the ground around us and on Manu's leg. I got sleepy and had to fire myself up again to lead the first pitch. After Liam seconded, I lead it carefully and on a good amount of bomber gear, before meeting Claire at the belay ledge. The tricky exposed stem-corner-under-roof-around-arete-to-stem-corner moves were particularly fun. The amount of suspect rock made it feel like mantling onto a sandcastle. Claire was sitting on a pile of choss like a dragon on top of her coins, and pointed to the (astonishingly) even more chossy part of the ledge. "I accidentally came from that way and had to crawl across the choss pile". I built the anchor as Claire ventured out across the roof after trying various backpack attachments. Manu seconded the first pitch slowed only by the multiple stuck nuts, which he verified were all "bomber". After some water and a nut bar, I threw aside all foreign thoughts and dared out across the void, placing lots of good small placements in rock that hummed with vibrations. I clipped the #8 dragon that Liam and Claire had left for me and awkwardly climbed out and onto the tiny ledge. Manu struggled mightily to do the start with the backpack hanging off him, eventually coming off and having to stoicly prussic back up into the roof. All of this had been eating daylight and my teeth were chattering with cold. I finally began the third pitch with all psyche gone and almost immediately had a tiny fall on one of the very much needed green cams. I sieged my way up with rests and falls as the daylight faded and stuck in a very overcammed totem, didn't extend it, and semi-blindly bouldered through the very steep jugs before arriving on a small vegetated ledge and seeing Claire standing across and up on the top. "Where are you going? I went this way and it was way easier". I had created so much rope drag that I had to build a belay and bring Manu up, his ascent lit only by the tiny LED on the top of the walkie talkie. He spent about 10 minutes getting my red totem back out from under the roof. I belayed Manu's scramble across to the top, and Claire belayed me up off a "bomber" small tree. We arrived back to the car at almost 11pm and headed straight for the Mt Vic servo, the staff watching us like we were aliens as we rolled in blaring 70s Brazilian jazz-funk, covered in zinc cream, rushed to the aid of the delivery people struggling to get a trolley full of drinks up the front step and gorged ourselves with sausage rolls and crispy M&Ms. We dodged the kangaroos home for a well deserved dinner around the fire.
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Sa 17. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
17 | Power Vacuum - mit Oliver McDonald | 120m | Durchschnitt | ||||
It seems this route has only been climbed once a decade since it was put up... First pitch was nice! Second pitch got interesting. Steep move to the right of the ledge covered in bushes and some mix of dead and alive trees. Bush bash through them then up to a layback before super easy slab section with minimal pro. Ollie slinged a dead tree for safety... Fun adventuring and wicked views from both belay ledges. Third pitch is basically a walk out. There's a nice stone you can wrap for an anchor at the top. Minimal trees for anchors.
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Mo 12. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Telstar
- mit
Alex Holroyd, SwagAustralia
1
18
30m
2
17
15m
3
19
20m
4
3
15m
| 80m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Telstar where to begin... well if you read the previous entry from Alex you'll get his recollection of the day so here is mine! It all started one night as we were flicking through the book and saw a photo of the climb, it looked outrageous and we were obsessed. Weeks earlier when arriving in the bluies I said I wasn't leading any trad with the exception of eternity. After leading this I was hooked on crack once again and this goal of telstar didn't feel impossible. You'll note from alex we started the day with a dead car battery and going to the wrong car park but eventually we made our way there. Gorgeous hike in with the muddy track providing a soft landing when I slipped and fell. Arriving at the base of the climb and looking up at this imposing roof crack, we had made it. Weeks of talk had finally turned into something, unlike bunny but who wants to clip bolts when you can go on wild trad adventures? I lead the first pitch, some committing moves and questionable rock but overall very engaging and fun. I got to the ledge below the first belay spot and could see the end of pitch 1, only a couple more moves and i was at the start of the bombay chimney. I opted to keep more right as it seemed the better option but quickly realised how wrong I was. I ended up too far right but couldn't down climb so I had to commit. I start climbing up and realise I'd be topping out on complete choss I was terrified. The foot holds disappeared and the 'hand holds' were large blocks that would fall off if I grabbed onto them. I committed to the scariest mantel onto choss yelling ROCK far too frequently. I got up and somehow was safe but then had to crawl to the left along the loose rock to where the belay was, somehow I had made it safely. Liam seconded this climb and then smashed out the next pitch. We went as two parties and Alex lead the first pitch so he go to join me at the belay spot, both trying to not knock off any more rocks as we navigated the choss pile. He watch me terrified to start the chimney and had the camera out to record it. Getting in was the hardest part but once I did I absolutely loved it. Finally the last pitch, what I'd been waiting for. A beautiful finger crack which was completely new terrain for me. I set off jamming and placed the 0.75 before taking my first whip on gear! I fell ending back at the hanging belay so ended up redoing it from the start and managed to send it! The best crack climb I've done so far, sustained and technical with beautiful moves. Getting to the top as the sun was shining and appreciating this amazing experience in the most beautiful place.
Liam and I enjoyed the view while waiting for Alex and Manu. We were starving and dehydrated but figured the others wouldn't be long... oh so wrong. Turns out while we were soaking in the sun they were having an epic! Manu fell off the chimney and it turned into a mission to get back on. 5:30 quickly turned into 8:30 and still no sign of them. We switched the radio on and alex responds just starting the last pitch, oh no this was going to be a long one. I respond 'onsight or whip' before waiting patiently. I wait where I though alex would top out yet he appeared on top of a pillar way too low. He responded 'I can't go any further the rope drag is too bad' as he tells me of the stuck cam and V1 boulder problem it took to get there. Much different to the chill scrambling I opted for but he had arrived just in time before light disappeared. Manu smashed out the last pitch in the dark and managed to free Alex's totem, it was almost gone forever. I then made a quick belay at where I'd topped out so Alex and manu could scramble over safely while being safe. Tired, hungry and dehydrated we powered on back to the car and DEMOLISHED the up&go's I had left in the car. Arriving back at camp around 11pm and demolishing pasta at midnight as we laughed at the day we had. THE BEST DAY EVER! The most amazing climb I've done and amazing friends share this experience again, 10/10 will do this again. |
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Do 1. Dez 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Ash | 32m | |||||
Kept nervously awaiting the crux on each sequence... it never came 🥲
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16 | ★ The Titan - mit Ash | 30m | |||||
Rebolt... and downclimb. Way better than it looks, bomber gear and rock the whole way and not dirty at all.
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit Ash | 32m | |||||
So 30. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Tim M-S | 80m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
If this is indeed 22, then all the other 22s have to be downgraded. First pitch is one of the best of not the best finger cracks at the grade in the Blueies and super fun. Starting the second pitch is head-scratching, super strenuous, insecure, in a word hard. If you’re rapping off make sure you have two ropes or a piece of cordelette to leave behind if you don’t mind rapping off very shallow bollards.
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - mit Tim M-S | 32m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
Not recommended as a warm up especially if you haven’t done any hard trad for a while. Fantastic rock. Sustained.
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So 16. Okt 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
18 | ★★ Reincarnation - mit ash 'badboi' brennan | 30m | |||||
Omg Ash promised me give metres of traverse. It felt like a lifetime. Also traverse holds were reeeeal sandy. Overall a great climb though!
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18 |
★★★ Blast Off (Blast Off P1)
- mit
ash 'badboi' brennan
| 80m | |||||
Just pitch one, pitch 2 looks haaaaard. One day... But everyone get on pitch one! Great but short pitch of finger crack!
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20 | ★★★ Caladan - mit ash 'badboi' brennan | 32m | |||||
Omg thank glob. Big ups to frog being my training ground for this send. And my fresh ass alturas. Live. Laugh. Love. Butora.
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So 5. Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
24 22 | ★★★ Blast Off - mit Pat | 80m | |||||
Had a go, didn’t work out . Got through the start after a few falls and up to the off width. Tried desperately to get established without dislodging the block onto Pat and other parties but in the end it came loose and I threw it off.
Will be back in slightly warmer and less windy conditions !!
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Managed to get away with 1 x #3 and 1 x #4, but I’d imagine more sane people might want a double of #3