Routen in Narrow Neck

Awesome steep hand crack, located just to the North of Therabulat Lookout, overlooking Nellies Glen, Katoomba. Access via Stuarts Road.

Rap off trees to ledge approx 30m down. Its quite tricky landing on the ledge as its so steep. Either pre place the gear on rap to help get you on the ledge or lasso the rope onto the pile of detached blocks and pull yourself in. Sounds dodgy but actually works.

P1. Isn't recommended. Grade 21 with hard moves off ledges.

P2. Belay 1 carrot, #1 and #2 BD cam. Classic steep hand crack that overhangs by 30 degrees. Take triple in size #1,2&3 BD cam and single rack in the rest.

Route history unknown.....Please update if you do know. Hugh Ward freed it on 29/08/2019

Topo notional, route not confirmed.

#Historical Abseil down "near the waterfall" (hard to find climb start), or walk down Nellies Glen until climb "stands out as obvious crack between a wall and detached buttress". [BA] Current access unknown.

1. (12m) (crux) Very tricky start up wall, via 1963 bolt runner to natural anchors. Originally done by lassoing a tree. "Layback cracks are other possibilities further to the right."

2. (21m) Up through scrub and rotten rock.

3. (21m) Up through scrub and rotten rock.

4. (15m) Up the final crack separating the buttress from the main wall.

5. (15m) Continue up the crack on magnificent rock and a clean finish.

"Magnificent rock and a clean finish." [BA] "Grand climbing." [JME]

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

A short climb and .. "probably not worth the walk" [BA] .. "which is useful as a descent route" [JME]

Start: On the right of a nose just before the waterfall.

1. (16m) Start on a block and up to a tree belay.

2. (22m) (crux). Climb diagonally to the right of a small groove through an overhang to top.

"A good climb, with a great jig [sic] ridden slab. Start: Large blocks lay against face, approx. 30m right of Dry Sherry Pinnacle. The climb is about 5-6 pitches, the crux being getting off the blocks onto the wall and slab above. All protection is natural." [JME]

#Historical "The first climb to use expansion (Terrier) bolts. Several are used and are useful as belays and runners. 3/8" eyebolts are needed to use these." [BA] 100m

Start: An obvious chimney near top of the face marks the climb. From directly below scramble up about 25m.

1. (30m) Start up wide chimney which closes into crack filled with vegetation at 25m. Up crack, traverse right then back left to large tree belay.

2. Scramble up past small gully to below huge chimney.

3. (30m) Up chimney via Terrier runners to crack. Up to cave recess then into chimney with belay 4m back.

4. (18m) Chimney up small cave to "expansion bolt belay 4m from roof."

5. (10m) Chimney to outside of crack onto right hand wall. Traverse left to tree belay.

Start: 200m west of Rhum Cognac at a rock pyramid balanced on a block confronting two layback cracks.

1. (10m) Layback the right crack, awkward start and overhung in places. Hard to find but good rock belay.

2. (18m) Traverse right and descend on other side of ledge to a tree, continue traverse into chimney. Climb this amphitheatre on a wide grassy ledge. "Good vegetable belay." [BA] (Vegetables!? - Ed.)

3. (18m) Climb chimney on left until forced out by overhanging mantelshelf, then traverse to face and climb directly to a good tree belay.

Start: Walk 100m left of Rhum Cognac to slight 21m high corner which faces Narrow Neck, then left again to wide scrubby corner. 170m

1. (43m) Cracks, bushes and corner to ledge (tree).

2. Continue pitch 1.

3. (37m) Corner for 20m, traverse left 13m and up (bolt belay).

4. (37m) Easily to ledge (piton belay).

5. (26m) Onto block, traverse left, up, around nose and up to tree.

6. (23m) Up.

"A pleasant climb on good rock."[JME] JME also declared both bolt anchors "unnecessary".

Start: About 15m left of IOU at obvious layback cracks.

1. (28m) (crux). Up layback, through bushes and up blocks to below overhang. Piton runner, over bulge on good holds, and continue up thin wall into belay cave, bolt anchor.

2. (18m) Over the bulge to left, and up to bolt anchor. Scrambling remains.

Access This crag is still being resurrected and as such will take time to develop an easier point of access to the ground. As it stands here is how accessed the wall. Park at Cahills lookout and head down to the lookout. Vere off the track to the right just as you reach the fence. Continue down and true left until you reach the big overhang. Locate the big boulder with tape around it. You can back this up with a few cams to climbers right. Descend about 60m trending to climbers left. Locate a small ledge and build a trad anchor, then descend another 70m to the ground.

Head 10m left of the abseil line to a corner system. There is a boulder at the base of the route marking the start. P1 30m 16: Awkward start to gain a dirty crack system. Follow the right crack up Belay off tree on the tier

P2 30m 18: Bouldery start, follow the obvious crack up. Traverse left at the first roof, then some 3 dimensional moves and an exposed move out to a small stance for the belay.

P3 45m: Traverse diagonally right through the sea of ironstone past your abseil line to the only vertical crack system in sight. Hanging belay at base of crack system

P4 15m: Up the crack system as it seems out and the ironstone gets thinner and thiner. Use the anchor from the abseil line

"A very impressive first pitch, by which Eric Parris won a bet for 10 beers and 4 double whiskies." [JME] "Eric Parris's finest hour." [BA]

Start: Overhanging crack 10m left of Rhum Cognac.

1. Up crack and more broken rock above to ledge with the bollard to Skinny John.

2. "It is thought that the climb continues further up the rotten rock to make it quite a long climb." [BA]

"An historic climb as its first ascent on 11th May, 1958 by Peter Hardy, Ken Cooke and Doug Litchfield marked the formation of the Rhum Dhu." [BA]

Start: 33m left of Gin and Tonic below and left of small overhang in corner. (Directly below abseil from the Skinny John bollard below Cahills Lookout.)

1. (12m) Up to tree.

2. (18m) Straight up, then slightly right (harder) or traverse further right (easier) to ledge with Skinny John bollard. The climb can be continued as:

3. (10m) Starting where right hand variants end, climb up "V" gully in corner to cave. Tree belay.

4. (10m) Continue up on left to base of chimney.

5. (6m) Battle up chimney.

6. Easily directly up edge of left pinnacle to top.

Variant start to Rhum Cognac. Start: Chimney/gully about 15m right of Rhum Cognac slab.

1. (10m) corner to ledge (tree).

2. (30m) move left into chimney and up to join the Rhum Cognac V-chimney.

The most perfectly preserved fossil of the Pre-Tradaceous era: a 110 foot leadout, with no runners. Bravo Bryden!! Bring out the plimsoles, pipe and tweed for the youngsters to learn some proper courage in.

"Consists of a long lead with no runners." [BA 1963] "A fine climb, though protection isn't the best." [JME 1967] "Take care." [Owens 1995] (Has honesty also been devalued over the years? - Ed)

Start: On face and rib 40 yards right of Rhum Cognac.

1. (70') Easily up the first section.

2. (110') There is now a small ramp leading to the right for about 20'. Go halfway up this then sneak up the overhang. Continue up the face which does not relax till the top is reached." [BA]

"A fine position and was a very popular climb. Details hazy. Rotten rock and exposure at the top." [BA] "A long and varied climb, which used to be very popular." [JME]

Start: The blunt buttress between Baby Sham and Whisky Gully.

1. Up on the left hand side via cracks, chimneys and scrub to ledge beneath slight overhang.

2. Up on the left hand side via cracks, chimneys and scrub to ledge beneath slight overhang.

3. Continue up very easily to left, or for more interest trend right and up main face right hand edge via piton belay or runner.

4. Continue up very easily to left, or for more interest trend right and up main face right hand edge via piton belay or runner.

#Historical "Each of the four pitches provide a battle of a new and exciting kind. Technically very hard but little exposure." BA

Start: On small shield of rock on right side of gully just right of Cocktail Buttress.

1. (10m) "Even this is not trivial."

2. (16m) Walk left and up slight layback. Walk to bolt belay on block (or natural anchor).

3. (8m) Up to right.

4. (12m) Layback crack then with difficulty into chimney.

Start: Nose the right of Whisky Gully. 83m

1. (15m) Diagonal traverse around nose then into crack - chimney. Up to bulge then out to ledge up to right. Tree anchor.

2. (18m) "Walk along scrub-covered ledge until faced with appalling wet mossy wall. Ascend arete to right using human footholds, to leave ground. Climb to small bush and crack. A horrible, delicate traverse to the left is followed by a desperate lunge to a grassy ledge." [BA]

3. (12m) Up easy face to broad ledge, short wall, and tree belay.

4. (30m) Easily to top.

Start: On nose to right of cairn 117m left of Shandy.

1. 13m, up nose diagonally left, crack to ledge, tree belay.

2. 13m, ramp left to steep nose. Flake to left then tree on left.

3. 23m, traverse right 3m, up and right to bulge, up to tree.

4. 10m, overhang and shallow corner until 3m below ledge. right to nose and up to bolt belay.

5. 10m, traverse 3m left then left across corner to cave (bolt runner). Aid on 2 bolt runners and piton runner to ledge (bolt belay).

6. 10m, to flake below corner.

7. 10m, layback to cave.

8. 20m, scramble off left.

"A rather worthless bolt route has been started up a face about 80 yds. left of Shandy. Urinate at the base of it and continue."[JME] (Description included only for amusement .. chopped in the 60s? - Ed.)

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

1. 33m (8). Fixed hangers & Carrots. Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock. Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

2. 26m (8) Left along ledge, then up and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

3. 14m (6) A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts. Up right crack. Belay off Rap anchors in Chimney. To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...

4. 26m (14) Alternate Finish. Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots. Faces south west - so shade until early afternoon.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belays, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp rope-cutting ironstone which is abundant on this route. There is plenty of loose rock on this route - be careful to stick to the line and not stray into the chossville around it. Helmets highly recommenced and be very careful if there are multiple parties on the route at the same time.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.)

Follow the track around to the right, traversing at the height of the U-bolt until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass another U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is right above huge drop-off so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

2. 25m (19). Soft, sandy slopers mostly. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts at ledge.

3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Finish at multiple U-bolts on top ledge.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

1. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

Short sport multi pitch that is perfect to combine with an ascent of Dirty Rotten Pig (if you want a bigger day out). All belays are on ledges suitable for multiple people - no hanging belays. Rock quality is generally much better than DRP. Route is bolted with a random mix of ringbolts and hangerless bash-in stainless carrots (avoid pulling out on these). At least 8 bolt plates required. Approach via rap in to DRP - at the base of the final rap is the start of the route.

1. 25m (21) Stem up chimney for a move then begin a rising traverse right and up to large ledge belay. Some lovely rock and pockets on this pitch.

2. 15m (20) Easily up orange wall on left then face right of corner to roof section. Traverse left through this to ledge.

3. 18m (19) Ironstone jugs leading right then up smooth wall with remarkable and memorable deep inset holds. Belay at top is 2 carrots and one ring. Walk up short ridge and a couple of scrambles to join back into approach gully to Dirty Rotten Pig. To exit - finish up that routes top pitch.

Inferior and chossy multi on the arete right of Pigs Might Fly. Rock in the lower-half is low quality and a fall on the first few metres would be unpleasant. The route is mostly ringbolts but carry 5 hangers for the occasional carrots an top pitch belay. Starts slightly down and right of where the last abseil into Dirty Rotten Pig touches down. To gain start - traverse across sandy ledge (past a ringbolt) to belay on 2 rings below undercut arete with nasty ironstone ledge jutting out at all sorts of angles.

1. 30m (21) Traverse right around the arete and up shale wall for a metre (bolt). Traverse back left to stand on thin jutting out ironstone and clip hidden 2nd bolt. Now unclip first bolt so rope drag is manageable. Up steep arete on precarious semi attached holds for too long until small ledge and belay.

2. 12m (21) Undercut bouldery move back onto the arete and up this to belay on sloping small ledge below epic choss. There is a random mix of carrots and rings to belay from.

3. Exposed traverse left under chossy roof and join into top pitch of Pigs Might Fly.

This has been climbed. Starts approx 5m right of DRP at corner. needs a good clean. Would recommend staying of untill it has been cleaned.

#Historical "The glamour climb of the area. A spectacular looking face and its first ascent (after several free attempts) was the first to use extensive artificial aids. 3/8" eyebolts are needed." [BA]

Start: Scramble up Green Salad Gully to slight overhang on left, beneath which the climb traverses onto the face.

1. (28m) Traverse left onto face, Terrier (eyebolt) runner on nose, continue up to pulpit type stone.

2. (10m) (crux, was M2) chossy crack and left to bolt belay.

3. (6m) Left up to small ledge and bush belay.

4. (22m) Tricky start, then right and off to finish an airy and exhilarating (exposed) climb.

"A pleasant walk through interesting scenery." [BA] Start: The large deep gully to right of and behind Boars Head.

1. Up gully passing short awkward chimney. Right onto higher level, back left through overhang, then easy to top of gully. From here can rap to start of "Shandy" P3 and then scramble off left.

Start 5m left of The Forgotten crack. This should go free by stronger climbers grade 24-25 "thrutching". The crux is getting established in the flaring chimney and then the tips underclinging out through the roof. Micro cams were used to aid through these bits.

Up finger crack to ledge. Hard moves into flaring chimney then under little roof to juggy flake. Up flake to ledge, step right around arete and up thin corner to ledge and 2bb as for the forgotten crack. The ledge is super loose so be careful.

A great crack route below a massive un climbed corner system. The upper pitch has been attempted but we were unsuccessful. A bolt and snap link mark the high point approx 5m above belay.

2m left of castaway

Climb corner to small roof past tricky move protected by a micro cam, then into hand crack

Follow crack through roof to ledge

Be careful as the top out and ledge is quite loose

Rap off or blast through choss band into unclimbed corner system.

Previously climbed back in the dark ages but un recorded. Has seen a lot of traffic. Good clean crack climbing

Follows a finger crack corner past some old carrots to a 2 bolt belay/lower offs

The crux is up high where the crack thins – if you climb the crack direct its around grade 23 however its slightly easier if you use the scoops on the right at grade 22.

Rap off 2 bolt belay.

2m right of Castaway and immediately left of a small overhang/cave.

1. 22 - Up steep corner to bush. Climb left of the bush to ledge then up steep finger crack to anchor. 2 bolt belay. Rap off or continue to pitch 2&3

2. 15 - Walk right along ledge to small eucalyptus tree. Climb short wall above eucalyptus tree to ledge. 0.75 cam and a wire in crack for belay.

3. 18 - Up steep leaning crack on good holds to ledge. Quite pumpy. Rap off

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed. 150m

"Details are forgotten." [BA] "A fine climb." [JME] Description below from Owens, copied from JME.

Start: At steep corner on the next prominent buttress east of Boars Head 420m left of Devils Hole.

1. 23m, up and right to top of buttress.

2. 35m, left to corner and up.

3. 33m, up and right to chimney.

4. 25m, chimney.

5. 36m, up gully and scramble off.

Start: "A very obvious scrub filled corner, some distance left of Devils Hole." [JME] 100m right of Whisky Chaser. [Owens] 43m

1. 10m, gully to tree.

2. 23m, traverse left to corner, up and over to bulge, left (bolt runners) to bolt belay.

3. 10m, corner and bulge to ledge.

Start: 10m left of Desperately Seeking Stephen.

1. Up gully 5m and right to ledge (bolt belay). Nose and slab (6 bolt runners) then right to join Desperately Seeking Stephen at last bolt runner.

Start: At undercut arete 200m W of Devils Hole.

1. 8? bolt runners to chain. 1.5-2.5 cams

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

BA describes a different climb to Owen, from which the description below is taken.

Start: At bottom of Devils Hole track, go left (facing cliff) just past left arete, up gully, and onto to huge block on ledge. Belay behind block as original "bush and piton belay" are no more.

1. (17m) Arete, left onto corner. Back to arete and up to tree.

2. (20m) Corner and left to tree.

3. (16m) Groove/chimney to tree.

4. (33m) Walk left to red corner (tree).

5. (10m) Up corner.

6. (40m) Walk left and up gully to overhangs.

7. (23m) Right and up to ledge, across corner to ledge (tree).

Scramble right, up arete, and down to Devils Hole path near chockstone overhanging track.

This climb commemorates the 21st ascent of the Rhum Dhu climbers.

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

Start: Walk down Devils Hole track from top to just below the chockstone visible jammed overhead. Follow track to right (facing in) past grey wall and corner crack to red wall with pinnacle abutting cliff-face above.

1. Climb easily up short wall then crack between pinnacle and cliff to large ledge and belay on top of pinnacle.

2. "Climb the left hand edge of the wall overlooking Devils Hole to a good belay." [BA]

3. Up tricky scoop then easily up nose to belay.

4. Up wall then traverse to the left under overhang to continue up wall above.

Start: At crack 3m left of "Bloody Mary RHS".

1. 18m Crack to ledge.

2. 17m Roof and chossy crack above.

Start: At crack 6m left of Tia Maria.

1. 23m Crack to hanging belay

2. 24m Crack to bush

Start 5m right of Bloody Mary RHS (marked) below triangular prowed ledge at 4m. Fixed rope may be present, bounce test before use; if not then lasso or stick-sling the very tip of prow and ascend rope then mantle onto ledge and good gear. Climbing starts here.

1. Head up and right following slanting invert thin crack to lip of roof and rest. Upper corner is very thin crack and a few decent holds. Stemming and a few face holds help. Exit left at top. Tree belay.

Standard rack plus extra small cams.

Top corner is a bit dirty and mossy but should clean up a bit.

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left.

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.

Corner then left wall.

Start: 50m left of the cave at corner beneath roofs.

Left to right eliminate of the traverse, using none of the obvious jug rail. Starts on high pockets, traverses down to the crimp on the V4, then out to slopers, moving low through the start of LSD and around. Video of Ben Pearse floating around somewhere.

Start: 5m right.

Start just left of tree, or right at chipped J.

Up the overhang, optionally sling tree, clip the fixed hanger, then a short crank to glory and stainless carrot security. Walk off to right.

Route bolter, please claim and name.

Anchor to ring in roof below blunt orange arete. 3m left of large detached block. Stick clip the first ring. Up, left then directly past 4 rings to break. Abseil from double ring anchor.

Low traverse of the wall. Starting on the rail below the chipped 2finger pocket of the v4. Move right to the same finish as jomfh, big hole in the corner past the arete.Originally I thought v7 but my mates recon v6. Crux is keeping your arse off the floor. This one is bound to pull some traffic (just joking).

Start: Just left of 'Chancellorsville' at bolt ladder leading left.

Aid up crack to roof, left to ledge, left to rock and up into the choss!

Start: Thin left leading seam in small roof on the left side of the 'Waterfall' cave.

Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner.

Start: 12m right of C.

Bridge tree stump and aid, around lip then to ledge. 2).Crawl left to piton in next corner. 3).Corner, right onto nose. 4). Up.

Start: Left end of ledge at undercut right facing corner.

Corner, left below the top and up. Off right.

Start: From AC anchor 1.

Traverse to Dixon\'s Ladders.

1. 255m (-)

2. 73m (-)

Aid to ledge, left past hollow flake, blank corner of left, to break, up and around overhangs to ledge. Off right.

Start: 25m right of 'Algae Corner'.

Directissima. Frees bottom section of Solidfan and top section of 'Lunatic', 'Excellent' rock and climbing. Good pro - no need to rebolt.

Highball thinish crux up past reasonable bolt and missing rurp to good gear. Leftish past tree & piton (Original Lunatic Belay) and up to hollow flake. Take right line - Lunatic - up past pitons & gear then right to bolt and final moves up through scoop to belay on ledge. Excellent

Start: As for Solidifan below bolt.

Aid/free up crack and wall, right to ledge.

Start: 6m right of S.

Corner, traverse left to S then up to piton. 2). Up to hollow flake, up right corner, up and right (aid), wall to belay. Off right.

Start: 1.5m right of BTP on left side of square gully.

Start: Up 'Necrophiliac' for a few metres then left to arete and up.

Corner to roof, aid out and around then free.

Start: As for L.

Right and side of gully

Start: On ledge above track before waterfall cave. Scrable up.Start marked on right side of the gully.

Up corner, right onto nose, wall & corner to tree.

Start: 4m right of M.

Use tree to climb overhang, up to ledge above BP corner. 2). Corner to tree, traverse left to crack and up.

Start: 4m right of BP.

Corner to ledge on right, arete to ledge below chossy overhang, up wall. Take Care!

Start: 10m right of FtC at left facing corner.

Wall, aid through overhang, slab right to chossy ledge below overhang, right and up to big ledge. Take Care!

Start: 15m right of scramble route to the 100 Man Bivouac Ledge.

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

Up to bolt, left then right again to piton, up, slight left around overhang, arete to ledge. 2). Right wall then up and left to arete and up.

Start: 3m righ of PGBDs. 'Arete'.

Coner and ramp to bush(!) 2). Up to traverse line, left and up onto block. 3). Up and right on jugs. Take great care!!

Start: 2m right of SoT.

5m up PG then ramp on left, left and up to PG anchor 2. Left again or finish as for PG.

Start: As for PG for 5m.

Up to roof, right and up to slab, up right (Take wires), to ledge and bush, finish as for PG. Take care with pro!!

Start: 5m right of PG.

Tree to wall, left to arete, up to ledge. 2).Left to corner, traverse right to piton then arete, up and right to ledge. 3).Back left to piton, around overhang, up wall on right of arete to ledge, up arete (mainly on left). Take slings.

Start: 12m right of SM at short crack below rooflet.

Corner, overhang, up and slight left to ledge. 2).Traverse left to corner, up to ledge and ramp leading right onto wall, up and right to bolt, back slight left and up wall. Take care!!

Start: 1m right again at thin crack.

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.

Squirm up to ledge. 2).Thrash to chockstone, out and up to bush. 3).Left and up wall to bulge. Take care!!

Start: 9m right of RS. Wet undercut chimney.

Batman start?

Start: 30m right of FC at slight orange overhang.

Up to first bolt, up.

Start: As for LL.

Diagonally left to bolt. Corner to 100' Slab halfway ledge.

Start: 3m right of LL.

Start: Use tree to swing left into flimsier tree (!), traverse left to bolt, Up and right to 100' Slab hw ledge. Has a direct start 2m left.(Grade 22).

Up tree and crack to 100' Slab hw ledge.

Start: 7m right of HTBB.

Start: 3m right of DD.

A pure old school trad classic.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

1. Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner.

2. Up, just right of corner for adequate protection (including new FH next to mild steel heritage bolt and plate); middle below block for a few pieces; or right for not much. Double bolt and chain belay.

Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself.

Orange, slightly overhung face on the left side of the Day of Reckoning arete. Start low via steep start on jugs to small ledge - then up sustained face above to lower-offs.

Funky goodness. The direct start and right hand finish to Day of Reckoning. All bolts + one old piton where the route joins up with original.

The proud arete left of 100ft Slab. Up trad protected flakes about 5m right of the arete for about 10m to piton, traverse hard left to arete (piton), then up the arete (2 bolts) finishing direct. Belay bolts on the top.

Start as for DoR flakes then continue up the bolted grey wall above, abut 5m right fo the arete, Original carrot bolts - probably short and dangerous if they match the same bolts Mikl used on Dead Reckoning.

Ringbolted wall left of 100ft Slab corner. Looks reasonably hard at one point - mid 20s? Anyone have further info?

Slab.

Start: 6m right of 100' Slab anchor 2.

Chickenhead and bolt, up and left.

Start: 2m right again!

To roof, right above lip and up easy slab.

Start: 8m right again.

Up wall, right along footledge and up, flake, right onto ledge, right 5m then wall tending left. 2). Up.

Start: 3m right of CL at break in overhang.

Wall to ledge. Take great care with pro!

Start: 4m right of 100'S.

Solo!

Start: 3m right again.

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

Free SH pitch 2 to third aid bolt, through roof and up wall.

Start: On halfway ledge as for SH pitch 2.