Einträge in Waylander

A novel crag located on the bottom tier of Radiata Plateau. Waylander routes are long and varied on some quality rock. Access is exciting/annoying depending on your tolerance for rungs, ropes and rust

Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25.

Excellent trad pitch with a great mix of styles. Start 3m left of Kaizen at ramp/flake. Straight up well protected face into crack and corner. Bolted belay at 38m, recommend 80m rope for lowering. Take double cams from 0.3 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Consider 3 x 2 Camelot and 3 x 3 Camelot. Lots of slings!

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24.

12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out.

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential.

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab.

Walk 100m left along cliff base, under huge pocketed amphitheater and small waterfall, to the next bolted routes starting just right of a major corner.

Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent.

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness.

Trad protected corner 10m left of STS. The top half has some remarkable but fragile rock features (including 4 small pillars). Lower off anchors on ledge.