Begehungen in Pole 28

2012 recon mission, save for a cool day

Too hard in the hot sun..

Great climbing spoilt a touch by bottom rock. Steep thugging with awesome techo face.

Top pitch only, 1 lap Top Rope Solo. I then spent the day trying to work out the bottom pitch only to be utterly stymied by a single move. The top pitch is mega sustained 26ish, with hard, committing and very runout moves up tick-tac crimps to turn the roof and gain the headwall (a fall before the post headwall bolt will exemplify the name of the route), with sustained thinness above, and an upper crux to gain the turret headwall for a heartbreaker finale. Stoked with this one. What a line!

3 laps Top Rope Solo today. Best lap was the second, which was done with a single fall at the crux. Pulled back on below the crux and went to the top. The roof is the easy part, turning the lip is a long crux sequence with exciting airtime potential before you reach a "reasonable" hold. After that it's super-sustained thinness all the way to the top. This one will be hard, but exciting, and the line and climbing are awesome.

Stoked. After my usual 1 hour warmup at home, I managed to tick this 1st shot of the day. I was extremely nervous on the Send, not just because of the fall potential, but because I could easily fall off 90% of this, even though the crux sequence starts in the first 3m. Super sustained, thin, steep, committing and excitingly stressful. Great rock and position.

Probably as good as Heat Wave for quality, though vastly different. Initially extremely steep and pumpy, tricky moves to gain the arete and move up it lead to a consistently interesting techy headwall. My onsight ended with the help of dozens of red herring tick marks (thanks for ticking the holds NOT to use), and I didn't allow enough rest between my next shots to score the tick. Just too tired. I quite enjoyed this though... an interesting techy boulder problem.

A hell of a route! Fantastic position and really great sustained moves. Headwall is really cool, but there's one move that would be absolute hell for someone short...

Fierce and flexible. Bring your skin

Had to give this some "Rar!". A kneepad would be handy.

Awesome few start moves off the rail (very powerful) then great catch on the lip! Unfortunately a hold broke off above whilst I was trying to mantle over the lip didn't finish the route

Managed to link the start/crux, a bit too pumped to put it all together, super fun regardless (minus cleaning the route ) Would have been nice to spend another session on it. Next time! Also, jug at the top feels a little fragile - be aware!

What a fantastic opening boulder problem to more enjoyable moves in cool terrain. Unfortunately, this climb is let down by a creaky jug that felt as if it might explode in my face. Pumpy finish.

Got through the boulder problem only to pump out going to said creaky jug. Would not bother getting on again due to the dodgy hold. And also, the mission of a clean. Will try the other 25 next time.

Hanging draws and working the moves. First 3 bolts took a while.

Happy to make it to the arete move but right hand was knackered.

Same again. Sick climb with the grade being earned in the first 4 bolts.

Cleaning.

Hanging draws and remembering beta.

Sent. Ripper route.

A great reason to come back, it'll take some work but defiantly doable. Still shedding a little rock.

One hard move

This climb really doesn't get any love. Not a drop of chalk on it today. I unfortunately threw to a "non hold" at the 3rd bolt, and still almost stuck the crux crimping on the non-hold (my sweaty hand finally spooged off). Back to the ledge. Pulled rope, then clean to the top placing draws and onsighting from the 4th bolt up. Still a "one-sequence wonder", but it's a LONGER sequence, and surrounded by more similarly graded climbing. Not too shabby.

Steep; liked this one.

First 24! Got it second shot, stoked!

2nd go

Not sure what was going on with that crux, I must have been doing it wrong cause it felt awful. The top half is fantastic though.

Another dog to complete the day of no ticks. Nice safe climbing and awesome head wall. Would take a lot of work for me to make the crux I think.

Pinkpoint FFA. Has some of the coolest moves I've done in a crack, and wouldn't feel out of place at a modern bouldering gym. In other words, as Jacques aptly put it: it's cocky.

Had 25 in mind for a while, but if you have good beta and can jam upside down forever it's just not that hard - get on it!

If only I was an inch taller. Nice committing move to an average sloper.

Two shots on this bad boy, the crux undercling at the 3rd bolt is invigorating! With only a single rest at the crux; I'll be coming back for the clean tick!