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Slape Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adrian Kladnig Luen Warneke Graham Dowden Macciza a.k.a. Macca Alex Rogers Gee Rad John Drake

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Slape Area 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und technisches Klettern

Lat / Long: -33.605625, 150.252599

Einschränkungen

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

übernommen von Blue Mountains

Ethik

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

übernommen von Blue Mountains
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Last Chance

Start: 11 left of P.

Erste freie Begeh.: W.Williams, A.Stevens (Law & Carrigan), 1974

19 Traditionell 15m
2 Think Kink

Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and 2 glue-in carrots.

Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC.

Erstbegehung: M.Law & K.Rosebery, 1976

17 Sport 16m, 4
3 Toucan Café

Start: 1m left of TK.

Erstbegehung: A.Penney & G.Bradbury, 1980

20 Sport 15m
4 Slape

Start: The middle of the wall.

Erstbegehung: A.Gordon, M.Law & R.Taylor, 1972

17 R Traditionell 20m
5 Rad Fem

Start: 2m left of S.

Erstbegehung: M.Law, 1979

22 Traditionell 18m
6 Glass Asylum

Start: 2.5m left again.

Erstbegehung: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980

22 Traditionell 20m
7 Turkey Patrol

Start: 4m left of GA.

Erstbegehung: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978

20 Traditionell 18m
8 Their Finest Hour

Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches.

Erstbegehung: R.Smith & D.Moss, 1965

6 Traditionell 40m
9 Tyrannasaurus Rex

Start: 10m left of TFH.

  1. (14m). Mantle and squeeze behind the tree to crack/flake. Up ramp to ledge.

  2. (23m). Either up layback flake (as in Blue Mountains guidebook; not a grade 12 move), or traverse right and mantle onto ledge (also not a grade 12 move, but easier than the flake). Up, then traverse right along ledge.

  3. (13m). Scramble up.

Erstbegehung: A.Campbell, B.Osbourne & T.Tierney, 1966

12 Traditionell 50m, 3
10 The Last of the Dregs 15 Traditionell 30m
11 Masochist 18 Traditionell 38m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Wizened Young Lads

Straight up from WYL initials. Step right into Masochist corner for a few moves then left onto face and up headwall to lower offs . Watch rope length. (Alternately just climb the thing on trad as a variant to Masochist as was the custom 30 years ago, recently revived by Macca)

Erstbegehung: Michael Law & Jeffrey Crass, 2017

20 Sport 30m, 13
13 Whatever You Like

Start from the massive initials and left along ledge and up past bolt to fist-sized cam break (ignore old bolt in scoop on left). Up easier ground past good runners to big ledge. Poor sling then big cams on lip and fixed hanger. Pull lip, good sling runners, then left up wall past 2 bolts, more slings another 5m then easiest to move left to Merlot Madness rings,

Erstbegehung: Harry Luxford, 1966

15 Gemischt trad 35m, 5
14 Merlot Madness

Harder and better than it looks.

Start: Left of WYL at MM and CH initials.

Straight up wall with carrots, FH and small/medium cams to DRBB.

Erstbegehung: B Cameron & H Luxford, 2008

17 Traditionell 30m
15 Chicken Hearted

Start: 7m left of WYL, just left of CH initials.

Traverse left about 4m and up past 3 bolts (last on ledge) then overhang and straight to top, or Merlot Madnesss DRBB lower off at 28m.

Erstbegehung: H Luxford & B Osbourne, 1966

13 Gemischt trad 42m, 8
16 Cider

Start: Vegetated chimney marked C.

  1. 21m Up broken chimney with good jugs and diverse gear to ledge and trad belay shared with Chimney and Wall.

  2. 18m Up same corner as Chimney and Wall then squeeze chimney to top.

Erstbegehung: P. Jenkins & B. Mattick, 1968

11 Traditionell 39m, 2
17 Gog 21 Traditionell 37m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Chimney and Wall

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

  1. 12m (8) Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro.

  2. 24m (8) Corner then wall and ramp on right. Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

Erstbegehung: J Ewbank & E Saxby., 1964

8 Traditionell 36m, 2
19 Marantha

Good but take care!

Start: 2.5m L of C&W

  1. 15m (19) 'Steep' orange wall to ledge under roof

  2. 25m (17) Directly up through roof and up wall above

Erstbegehung: G Dowden & R Taylor, 1982

19 Technisch 65m, 2
20 Corinthian

Pleasant

Start: Start as for Maranatha

  1. 15m (19) As for M for 8m then left up slab to ledge

  2. 25m (16) Diagonally up ramp to wall & up

Erstbegehung: B Zemek & W Davenport, 1971

19 Traditionell 40m, 2
21 Armageddon

Better than it looks!

Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian', marked with evident ‘A’ with a faded ‘BV’ above it.

  1. 21m (13) Through choss, over bulge & up slab to ledge.

  2. 15m (13) Left & up wall to cave, bush anchors on left

  3. 13m (13) Up corner to tree belay. Use slings as ropes are ring barking.

Exit: From tree head up faint trail to meet access path which leads to decent gully.

Erstbegehung: J Pickard & T Tierney, 1966

13 Traditionell 49m, 3
22 Bon Voyage

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

Erstbegehung: M Law & A Penney, 1979

21 Sport 30m
23 The Athenian

Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)

  1. 21m (21) Up right hand corner and up left into corner

  2. 24m (21) Right to cave, hard move to arete and up

  3. 12m (-) Up off ledge to obvious topout

Erstbegehung: J Ewbank & R Reynolds, 1967

21 Traditionell 57m, 3
24 The Spartan

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

  1. 16m (14) Thrutch up chossy corner then up and left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Trad and manky carrot belay.

  2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. Watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or at two carrots on ledge outside. Can abseil here with a 60m.

  3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

Erstbegehung: John Ewbank (Second freaked)

16 Gemischt trad 50m, 3, 4
25 Twister

Hostile, good second pitch

Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)

  1. 25m (19) Up easy but soft yellow cracks, out left & diagonally up to ledge with bolt anchors

  2. 25m (18) Hand traverse left to scoop & up

Erstbegehung: M Law & R McGregor, 1977

19 Traditionell 50m, 2
26 Brydens Route

As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof

Erstbegehung: Ivalenta/ G Child?

22 Sport 40m
27 The Plunge

Interesting and varied wall climbing. Start on arete left of a rotten groove (original route) beneath a big, black wall. 70m rope is fine for lower-off. Loose bolts have been replaced (2020).

Erstbegehung: M Law & G Child, 1980

23 Sport 35m
28 Corridor Metaphysics 20 Traditionell 45m
29 That 15 Traditionell 61m
30 It 13 Traditionell 52m
31 What 18 Traditionell 55m
32 Renegade 23 Traditionell 61m
33 Divine Right 12 Traditionell 20m
34 Valhalla 5 Traditionell 51m
35 Cartwheeling
  1. 15m (13). Bolts right of Valhalla, up scoopy arete.

  2. 15m (19). Bolts up right side of arete. Lower offs on both belays.

  3. Finish up "Vinyl Idyl" if you must. 2BR top belay (no option to lower off this pitch).

Erstbegehung: Ivan & Bob

19 Sport 30m, 2
36 Vinyl Idl

Start from DBB above the top of "Cartwheeling". Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top.

Erstbegehung: M Law, 1978

21 Sport 23m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5 Valhalla Traditionell 51m
6 Their Finest Hour Traditionell 40m
8 Chimney and Wall Traditionell 36m, 2
11 Cider Traditionell 39m, 2
12 Divine Right Traditionell 20m
Tyrannasaurus Rex Traditionell 50m, 3
13 Armageddon Traditionell 49m, 3
Chicken Hearted Gemischt trad 42m, 8
It Traditionell 52m
15 That Traditionell 61m
The Last of the Dregs Traditionell 30m
Whatever You Like Gemischt trad 35m, 5
16 The Spartan Gemischt trad 50m, 3, 4
17 Merlot Madness Traditionell 30m
Think Kink Sport 16m, 4
17 R Slape Traditionell 20m
18 Masochist Traditionell 38m
What Traditionell 55m
19 Cartwheeling Sport 30m, 2
Corinthian Traditionell 40m, 2
Last Chance Traditionell 15m
Marantha Technisch 65m, 2
Twister Traditionell 50m, 2
20 Corridor Metaphysics Traditionell 45m
Toucan Café Sport 15m
Turkey Patrol Traditionell 18m
Wizened Young Lads Sport 30m, 13
21 Bon Voyage Sport 30m
Gog Traditionell 37m
The Athenian Traditionell 57m, 3
Vinyl Idl Sport 23m, 6
22 Brydens Route Sport 40m
Glass Asylum Traditionell 20m
Rad Fem Traditionell 18m
23 Renegade Traditionell 61m
The Plunge Sport 35m
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