A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Kladnig
Luen Warneke
Graham Dowden
Brendon Flanagan
Macciza a.k.a. Macca
Vanessa Wills
Alex Rogers
Brendan Heywood
Gee Rad
John Drake
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Slape Area 36 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Slape Area 36 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und technisches Klettern
Lat / Long: -33.605625, 150.252599
Einschränkungen
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Ethik
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Last Chance
Start: 11 left of P. Erste freie Begeh.: W.Williams, A.Stevens (Law & Carrigan), 1974 | 19 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Think Kink
Right arete of slabby face past 3 rings and 2 glue-in carrots. Start: 'Arete' 2m left of LC. Erstbegehung: M.Law & K.Rosebery, 1976 | 17 | 16m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Toucan Café
Start: 1m left of TK. Erstbegehung: A.Penney & G.Bradbury, 1980 | 20 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Slape
Start: The middle of the wall. Erstbegehung: A.Gordon, M.Law & R.Taylor, 1972 | 17 R | 20m | |||||
5 |
★ Rad Fem
Start: 2m left of S. Erstbegehung: M.Law, 1979 | 22 | 18m | |||||
6 |
Glass Asylum
Start: 2.5m left again. Erstbegehung: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1980 | 22 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★ Turkey Patrol
Start: 4m left of GA. Erstbegehung: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1978 | 20 | 18m | |||||
8 |
Their Finest Hour
Start: Chimney with block, cave and roof. 3 Pitches. Erstbegehung: R.Smith & D.Moss, 1965 | 6 | 40m | |||||
9 |
Tyrannasaurus Rex
Start: 10m left of TFH.
Erstbegehung: A.Campbell, B.Osbourne & T.Tierney, 1966 | 12 | 50m, 3 | |||||
10 | The Last of the Dregs | 15 | 30m | |||||
11 | ★ Masochist | 18 | 38m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ Wizened Young Lads
Straight up from WYL initials. Step right into Masochist corner for a few moves then left onto face and up headwall to lower offs . Watch rope length. (Alternately just climb the thing on trad as a variant to Masochist as was the custom 30 years ago, recently revived by Macca) Erstbegehung: Michael Law & Jeffrey Crass, 2017 | 20 | 30m, 13 | |||||
13 |
Whatever You Like
Start from the massive initials and left along ledge and up past bolt to fist-sized cam break (ignore old bolt in scoop on left). Up easier ground past good runners to big ledge. Poor sling then big cams on lip and fixed hanger. Pull lip, good sling runners, then left up wall past 2 bolts, more slings another 5m then easiest to move left to Merlot Madness rings, Erstbegehung: Harry Luxford, 1966 | 15 | 35m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★ Merlot Madness
Harder and better than it looks. Start: Left of WYL at MM and CH initials. Straight up wall with carrots, FH and small/medium cams to DRBB. Erstbegehung: B Cameron & H Luxford, 2008 | 17 | 30m | |||||
15 |
★ Chicken Hearted
Start: 7m left of WYL, just left of CH initials. Traverse left about 4m and up past 3 bolts (last on ledge) then overhang and straight to top, or Merlot Madnesss DRBB lower off at 28m. Erstbegehung: H Luxford & B Osbourne, 1966 | 13 | 42m, 8 | |||||
16 |
★ Cider
Start: Vegetated chimney marked C.
Erstbegehung: P. Jenkins & B. Mattick, 1968 | 11 | 39m, 2 | |||||
17 | Gog | 21 | 37m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★ Chimney and Wall
1m left of Gog. An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.
Erstbegehung: J Ewbank & E Saxby., 1964 | 8 | 36m, 2 | |||||
19 |
Marantha
Good but take care! Start: 2.5m L of C&W
Erstbegehung: G Dowden & R Taylor, 1982 | 19 | 65m, 2 | |||||
20 |
★★ Corinthian
Pleasant Start: Start as for Maranatha
Erstbegehung: B Zemek & W Davenport, 1971 | 19 | 40m, 2 | |||||
21 |
★ Armageddon
Better than it looks! Start: 15m left of 'Corinthian', marked with evident ‘A’ with a faded ‘BV’ above it.
Exit: From tree head up faint trail to meet access path which leads to decent gully. Erstbegehung: J Pickard & T Tierney, 1966 | 13 | 49m, 3 | |||||
22 |
★ Bon Voyage
Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base Erstbegehung: M Law & A Penney, 1979 | 21 | 30m | |||||
23 |
The Athenian
Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)
Erstbegehung: J Ewbank & R Reynolds, 1967 | 21 | 57m, 3 | |||||
24 |
★★★ The Spartan
Classic roof traverse above great space Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A
Erstbegehung: John Ewbank (Second freaked) | 16 | 50m, 3, 4 | |||||
25 |
Twister
Hostile, good second pitch Start: At yellow crack on opposite wall to Spartan (8m L)
Erstbegehung: M Law & R McGregor, 1977 | 19 | 50m, 2 | |||||
26 |
★ Brydens Route
As for the Plunge but traverse right and up through roof Erstbegehung: Ivalenta/ G Child? | 22 | 40m | |||||
27 |
★★★ The Plunge
Interesting and varied wall climbing. Start on arete left of a rotten groove (original route) beneath a big, black wall. 70m rope is fine for lower-off. Loose bolts have been replaced (2020). Erstbegehung: M Law & G Child, 1980 | 23 | 35m | |||||
28 | ★ Corridor Metaphysics | 20 | 45m | |||||
29 | That | 15 | 61m | |||||
30 | It | 13 | 52m | |||||
31 | What | 18 | 55m | |||||
32 | Renegade | 23 | 61m | |||||
33 | Divine Right | 12 | 20m | |||||
34 | Valhalla | 5 | 51m | |||||
35 |
★ Cartwheeling
Erstbegehung: Ivan & Bob | 19 | 30m, 2 | |||||
36 |
★ Vinyl Idl
Start from DBB above the top of "Cartwheeling". Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top. Erstbegehung: M Law, 1978 | 21 | 23m, 6 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | ![]() |
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Valhalla | 51m | |||
6 | Their Finest Hour | 40m | |||
8 | ★ | Chimney and Wall | 36m, 2 | ||
11 | ★ | Cider | 39m, 2 | ||
12 | Divine Right | 20m | |||
Tyrannasaurus Rex | 50m, 3 | ||||
13 | ★ | Armageddon | 49m, 3 | ||
★ | Chicken Hearted | 42m, 8 | |||
It | 52m | ||||
15 | That | 61m | |||
The Last of the Dregs | 30m | ||||
Whatever You Like | 35m, 5 | ||||
16 | ★★★ | The Spartan | 50m, 3, 4 | ||
17 | ★ | Merlot Madness | 30m | ||
★ | Think Kink | 16m, 4 | |||
17 R | Slape | 20m | |||
18 | ★ | Masochist | 38m | ||
What | 55m | ||||
19 | ★ | Cartwheeling | 30m, 2 | ||
★★ | Corinthian | 40m, 2 | |||
★★ | Last Chance | 15m | |||
Marantha | 65m, 2 | ||||
Twister | 50m, 2 | ||||
20 | ★ | Corridor Metaphysics | 45m | ||
★ | Toucan Café | 15m | |||
★ | Turkey Patrol | 18m | |||
★ | Wizened Young Lads | 30m, 13 | |||
21 | ★ | Bon Voyage | 30m | ||
Gog | 37m | ||||
The Athenian | 57m, 3 | ||||
★ | Vinyl Idl | 23m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ | Brydens Route | 40m | ||
Glass Asylum | 20m | ||||
★ | Rad Fem | 18m | |||
23 | Renegade | 61m | |||
★★★ | The Plunge | 35m |