Routen in Blue Mountains für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Stand start on the slab side, with out using the sides, slowley make your way to the top

up and and over the bulge

start on small under cling at eye level then all the way up to the top

the bolts running up the cave. lower off ring bolts up the top

has not been bolted yet. right side of big cave

has not been bolted yet 3mt right of CW under the tree

sit start as for switch up, traverse the nice scoop features into the top crack to then continue along the crack where the climbing quality fizzles out to jug hauling.

Sit start next to the water using side pull and undercling, traverse the seam left to exit before bucket slap.

Sit start, up left then sidepull and pop to the top

Sit start as for Anzac then after the first move bust out right then head up through the harder top

Sit start right of Anzac up to scoop via right sidepull undecling can be topped out in various spots as per the previous routes but the obvious is straight out

Third start position but head up right with a throw to jug

follow RBs. Tops Out. Tree for anchor. needs a clean after heavy rain.

To the right of Rapa Nui go up the flake, pretty average climbing.

left hand side of the arete below GG, punting not advised

Cool little arete sit start and up

Chris Beers

An old route heading up juggy edges

From the back wall up the right side

stand start in the jug crack and make a few moves to the fat pinch then over the bulge to top

to get here go behind dopest down the left side and down the hill around to the right past slice

start on vertical section of slab-wall use cave for feet as you get up

straight up the left side , into the crevice to top-out

start to left of leg lock rock on crimps finish top-out

Start on rock wedged between the 2 caves. tricky slope at the top

start left bathang finish bottom hold

start on low sloper to right and continue under roof to left. top out

start twohands on sloper ledge, sideways-foot kneebar into dyno move and mantle to topout -->FFA:

3D and technical through blocky steepness. Hard cruxes between good rests.

Belayer should pay attention during the moves between the first and second bolt, as they're hard, and a bad catch could be catastrophic.

Awkward sit start on horizonal crack and straight up the most obvious holds to a mantle which forces you to spread your wings

Sharing a few sections of climbing with The Venom, this line launches up the steeper, blanker faces, while remaining stylistically similar to its elder sibling.

Bring a double rack #0.3 to #3, a single #0.2 and #4, and an extra #0.3. Bring 2 x 60m ropes if rapping off from the top.

This route seeps heavily after rain, and will remain wet even when the rest of the gorge is bone dry.

Start (as for The Venom) at prominent thin crack at right side of black wall, approximately 8m above the Gorge floor (can be accessed by an easy stemming corner).

1. 15m 15 - Up black seam as for The Venom for 5m to major ledge system. Rising traverse left until directly below major orange flake, then onwards and upwards to bolt belay. Bring the full rack for this pitch.

2. 25m 21 - Up thin flake (#0.3 on left) and up prow past bolt to thin rail where you'll find a crucial #0.3/#0.4 placement in a slot out left. Fingery traverse right, and up to sloper and bolt. Continue up vague corner system to steep finger crack (2 x #0.3). Up this to bolt, then turn roof on edges (slightly right of bolt) and up face (unprotected) to bolt belay (shared with the end of The Venom P1).

3. 20m 17 - Shared with The Venom P2. Straight up nose above belay (#4, #0.4, #0.3) to bolt. Traverse straight left past another bolt, then up onto ledge system. Rising traverse left past #0.4 and #0.75 to bolt belay.

4. 30m 22 - Up seam past #0.4, #0.5 and #0.75 to bolt and rooflet. Gain the ledge, ignore carrots heading out left, and instead head right to bolt. Step out over the void, then crux moves straight up face to gain break (#0.3, #0.2), then upwards to gain ledge (#0.3, #0.4). Traverse right to bolt belay.

5. 15m 20 - Tricky moves (and gear - sneaky #0.4 slot out left) above the belay to gain stance under the roof. Blast out the roof crack slightly right of the belay via #2 and #3, and up crack (#0.5) to top out. Belay off #2 and #1 cams.

To escape, find the bolts above The Venom (up and right from where this route tops out -on the other side of the waterfall) and abseil 50m to the belay at the end of P2, and another 50m to the starting ledge.

2m right of AOAD. Intimidating. Up to ledge. Continue up wall just right of flake (AoaD) to roof. Across roof (PR) and up wall. Tree belay.

Cut away roof just left of pitch 2 of AC. Airy and gymnastic. Swing out past BR and PR on thin holds onto arete. Up (poor BR) to BB.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Obvious thin crack through bulge/roof just right of TD. Strenuous and frightening. Just follow the crack.

Start from the ledge which starts about 20 metres right of start for AC. The ledge is about 18m above stream level. Start as for SDS, or abseil in from tree. Hard moves near bolt, poor protection down low. Left to bullnose arete, belay. Up arete, BR.

Steep and sustained, dirty. Start: as for three cans later. 1: corner, roof, wall to BB

Start on the overhanging orange wall on the right as you enter the Gorge cliffs. A good route that remained the hardest climb for many years. Up thin crack (2 BRs plus cams).

Starts on the orange rail, head up the right on some lovely holds.

The short powerful route on RHS of the amazing cave. Up through the smiley face feature. Best to stick clip the 2nd bolt and climb the side of the feature.

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun.

Phillip Booth

Same start as The nurse but then pushes left into the undercling match, a couple ok holds then the high finish as for Go Go Gadget.

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until you figure out the beta.

Not any harder just higher and more committing. Finish on the sweet jug in the water runnel.

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

Start in the good flake jug and traverse right until you can step off. Can be wet for very long periods of time.

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

Traverse of the inner cave, start on the two pinches, long move to next two pinches and traverse across, finishing at the same jug of the Cave Traverse 1. Bottom flatter horizontal strip of rock out for feet.

Long traverse, start low on pinches below graffiti, traverse across holds until 2 big moves to finish on the large rail.

Left-hand variant in the cave finishing on slopers - will update with a topo shortly

The Slightly harder variant of Tiger Balm starts off two right-hand holds low down

The middle line on the Cave's far left hand side.

Sit-start with right handjam in roof and left hand on positive lip. Some minor contortion to get up onto the starting footer of the stand variant, then possible crux of turning back to face the wall, before continuing as for SSS. Careful of some sharp pebbles in the lower section of the crack.

Start on the undercling up to crimps

Start on low jug tough mantle through the bulge

Sit start through pockets to jug slopey topout

Start on the left side of the incut hole then go up and across to the two jugs at the end of the boulder

Start on opposing pockets and up to the sidepull. Top out

Start on jugs to slopey crimp thingies and topout

Starting on the left side of the cave on the low jug on the shelf. Climb up the side of the cave and then onto slopers.

Start in the middle of the cave then go right and up using slopers and jugs

Boulder is located on the right side of waratah cave. Start on 45 rail and up into amazing undercling then to a hole through the rock. mantle up and over the top. Awesome features not so awesome rock quality

Problem starts in the cave on the far right side, traverses the sloper rail high, and then has a variety of endings...the many heads of the Hydra. The sloper rail goes at V3, the endings vary from V3 to V4.

Obvious line on left side of boulder. Sit start on good holds on overhang, move to crimps on face using kneebar, then crank to the top!

Harder then it looks Sit start on flake make your way up 1m the crack gos left on a 45 and hard till the top. cool moves side pull right then side pull left and fun topout.

Awesome line to the right of Ride the Rail. Climbs the uphill side of the RtR boulder just after the backside walk off. Side pulling pain, mixed with awkward foot placements, and a committing final move onto a sloper topout make this a monster classic distilling the best the Zed has to offer. I banged my knee on the first knee and sprung a gusher...which gave rise to the name!

Sit start right of the SS arete keeping body on the right face only. Follow crimps to an unexpectedly positive hidden hold for RH at the top. Sketchy top out

Climbs left arete to sloper, slopping traverse right to decent dish, then commit and over. Cleaned by Z and Ado, 'scent by Axel!

Original name on crag, wrist slapper' was in error, AT calls it Sexual Thrutch at V3

Traverse left from LL 4 meters to start of MM. Nice safe low ball line, a nice addition to the sector. Starts on sloper crimps and ends on forearm friction!

Start as for Excalibur, head left and up past TT onto high holds to start of Tizona. Keep high and end as for KnT. Awesome linkup!

Climb Blade Bandit, then down climb to Tizona, then up and over!

Left arete of the Heuco Cave. Original line ends in small cave due to rain, topout extension un'scent.

Sit start and thrutch up the off width to finish on the balcony.

Left hand arete. Sit start on low rail. Finish in sandy cave.

Traverse right to left. Finish up Johnson and Johnson on the balcony

Crimpy wall into the obvious dish and mantle onto the top. Standing start. Really nice.

A steep uber exposed line up the steepest section of the wall

With not a single bad pitch and bolted belays. It highlights that we are only scratching the surface of climbing development in this area and there is plenty of lines for the Rookies of the Future.

P1 - 17 15m

P2 - 22 20m

P3 - 20 20m (my favourite pitch)

P4 - 22 33m

P5 - 18 30m

Start off block traversing right then up on killer holds and cool moves

Start on flake then straight up.

Start as for Theory on Negativity. At 2nd bolt veer right and up steep wall.

A bit squeezed in but has some great sustained climbing. Same start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then take the next line of bolts to the left. Easily to small cave then punch out a committing move above it. Nice climbing to the top, staying just left of arête.

Undercut start as for Flash Flood for a couple of bolts then slightly left and up the wall left of Stereo. A bit of a shutdown crux in the middle, that can be done slightly easier by climbing to the right of the bolts.

Really good sustained climbing that wanders around a bit to link a line above the overhung section. Start as for up Flash Flood (or Nice Day for a Disco), and then move left to the furthest line of ringbolts that traverses over lip of small cave, then climb up and right up the super headwall.

Both Jason and Macca eyed this line off, nether realizing the other wanted the first ascent. Jason got in first, bolting and climbing it, then Macca did the same route on trad and called it a different name. Confused? Everyone is! The route is the crack on the buttress 2m left of Hells Bells and currently also has ringbolts - although the first has been chopped.

Supa fun, big sporty jaunt. Starts as for Colosseum Corner and traverses across Golden Giles to big belay ledge left of arete. Up thin face left of the arete. Take about 12 draws and slings and stuff for the belays. Can either top out (tree belay) or lower off down the route. A 70m rope will get you down in two rappels (using the Golden Giles pitch 1 anchor).

1. 20m (18) Rising to the right, and upto obvious belay ledge.

2. 35m (22) Launch up the thin wall. The money pitch!

3. 20m (20) Can be linked from the 2nd pitch. Up over small bulge and continue to final headwall.

A good little warm-up - but a little sharp. In the middle of the orange wall is a line of scoops that doesn't quite make it to the ground. Start about 4m to the left of these scoops. Now trend right to the scoops and up them to first set of lower-offs.

A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

1. 27m (22) 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

2. 30m (21) 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

3. 35m (17) 12 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

4. 10m (15) 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

Dangerous! DO NOT ATTEMPT!

Dangerous! DO NOT ATTEMPT!

Start at decent sized Angophora.

One of the best mini-multis for a quick, exposed and scenic adventure in the Blue Mountains. This route is highly visible to the tourist hoards passing overhead on the Scenic Skyway cablecar and nearby lookouts. On a busy weekend expect to be hassled and photographed relentlessly. There have been reported incidents of police meeting climbers on the top-out after tourists thought the climbers were stuck and rang 000.

This route can be done as a run-out sport route (bring 15+ draws) or a saner mixed route with the addition of a single set of cams from #0.75 to #3 Camalot. Long runners are useful to reduce rope-drag and for a thread on pitch 1. This route no longer requires bolt plates.

Start: Make your way to the lookout on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk directly below the Katoomba side of the Scenic Skyway. From the lookout the rap point is on the small but obvious rock platform 30m down and to the left. There is a well beaten dirt track leading to this spot (it's a popular Instagram selfie area)

There are 2 ringbolts to rap off hidden back from the edge obscured by some bushes. Do NOT rap off the 2 carrot bolts a few metres further left. Fix a 70m rope to these anchors and rap down to the major vegetated starting ledge. It is possible to rap and pull ropes if you build an anchor that gets over the top edge. 30m to the mid height rap chain followed by a 40m rap to the bottom of the route. Facing the cliff, the route starts on a ledge a few metres up and to the left of where you touch down with a single bolt belay.

1. 45m (22) A long pitch. After a very hard start move trend right up the ramp. Now climb up and up and up, mainly on jugs, but even so there is one unnerving run out section. A 60cm sling for an obvious thread can mitigate the runout. Eventually you come to the belay chain.

2. 30m (22) An excellent pitch with a couple of tricky sections to keep things interesting. Cams help alleviate runouts. Don't forget to smile for the cameras.

Mixed climbing masterpiece. The excellent final pitch can be seen easily from the lookouts on Cliff Drive.

Start: Huge right facing corner directly beneath Wollumni Look out. Best access is to walk-in via Furbers Steps, left at the bottom and follow track to HUGE boulder on left about 250m after crossing the creek. Head directly up the hill towards the cliff. The route has a substantial tree at its base that you use to get established on the rock and there is a NY cap with a rock on it at the base.

1. 10m (17) Mantle on to tree then up corner and slightly left to belay at twin breaks. Gear belay.

2. 45m (22) Head leftwards from the belay towards carrot and then up the awesome wall just in from the arete on great rock passing more carrots and good gear in horizontals just where you need it. When you arrive at a small scoop and ledge trend up and left to the arete and boulder your way through to the belay which is two carrots.

3. 20m (17) Walk 4m left on ledge to bolt above your head. Up passing one more bolt and slightly left to ledge below yellow corner. Not a load of gear. Single bolt and cam belay.

4. 40m (18) Up corner with limited gear but on rock that is better than it looks, then traverse right to chossy ledge. Up great juggy crack to mossy ledge. Single bolt and cam belay.

5. 50m (17) Corner, right at top (ignore rusty carrot out left) and up to huge tree below the lookout.

8m past Wollemi lookout, climb the fence and walk to the right below a small boulder to find the abseil rings above you. Abseil just left of the small tree (looking out) to 2 x rings 15m down, and keep on abseiling clipping some bolts along the way to keep in contact with the wall. A 60m rope JUST reaches in 1 abseil on stretch (tie a knot in the end). This is the last route off the right side of the small, exposed footledge.

Take at least 12 bolt plates, a single rack (BD 0.3 - 3) and some mid-sized wires.

1. From the belay, trend up and right over the void to a bolt, then continue upwards with 1 very hard move at 2/5ths height. Supplement bolts with cams and wires (good gear) as necessary. Belay on 2 x rings 15m down from the top.

2. Hard start, then up past carrots to roof. Hard moves to turn the lip (don't forget the hard-to-see carrot bolt on the lip of the roof, and the optional #3 placement just below the roof proper in the vegetation). Belay off abseil anchors well back from cliff edge.