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Einträge in Shakes and Flakes Wall

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Eintrag
Shakes and Flakes Wall

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

25 The Racer's Edge Direct Finish

Climb the arete direct for the last few bolts (the original traverses left up the face away from the arete for 2 bolts).

25 The Racer's Edge

Proud black arete. Best to start on the left side of the scoops at short flake crack past a BR (shared start with E Racer). The rest has been rebolted with rings - but still worth bringing a # 4 and # 0.75 cam for the runout easy middle section. Can be finished two ways - both the same grade. The original finish heads left up the cleaner streak away from the arete for the last two bolts (same finish as E Racer). The arete direct is still really good climbing but a little mossier.

23 E Racer

Line of bolts 2m left of Racer's Edge which eventually joins into that routes original left trending finish right at the top. A mix of FHs, carrots and rings. At the 3rd bolt trend right boldly into Racers Edge for a few moves then back left to the worn sidepull (doing the move without this dogleg looks highly contrived and very hard!). Graded 24/25 in the Carter print guide.

21 Shakes and Flakes

Great technical slab/face climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Only one bracket required for the high first bolt - the remaining are FHs and rings.

23 Let's Nail God

The wall directly below the lower-off for Shakes and Flakes - shares the top 2 bolts of that route. No brackets required. About 7 or 8 bolts.

23 Tips for Troubadours

Blank, but with hidden holds. Just left of Let's Nail God - and shares that routes easy slab start and first high ringbolt. Once established on the main wall weave around on good edges and small pockets to exciting finish just right of arete to lower-offs. The original version traversed right above the anchors across mossy slab to join into top of Shakes and Flakes - this is still possible but requires a long runner.

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