Routen in Echidna Slabs

Follow the mineral deposits (bolts) of which there are four on the first pitch. Start on the 5-m triangular block at the left hand end of 'Snickers Wall'.

1. 30 metres - Crux. Clip a bolt, step onto the wall and follow the rightward rising traverse past two more bolts. Climb past the double-ring anchor to a chain anchor at the top of Frog Tactics.

2. 30 metres - Move left two metres, up the slab then left again at the short wall til standing on a small spike. Up the crack and wall above finishing by a short crack to the belay ledge with a tree (as for 'Baryon').

3. 30 metres - From the left end of the ledge follow a dyke for a few metres, then back right to below an incipient curved crack. Up and onwards between two lichen streaks, passing a "thank God" RP placement.

A good, varied climb with a thin crux. Start as for 'Silver City Highway'.

1. 45 metres - Traverse right slightly then straight up past a bolt (crux) to a ledge. Walk left then up the wall past two more bolts to a corner and easy slab. Finish up the wide corner crack and belay below 'Baryon'.

2. 45m (13) - Climb left along the 10cm dyke (RPs / small wires) until you hit the wide 'Lepton' dyke then up easily to top.

Start four metres right of 'Mind and Body' (at the edge of the SCH flake). Up easily on good holds to the first bolt. Climb past two more bolts then traverse diagonally left on scoops for five metres to the first belay on 'Mind and Body'. Finish up this or 'Zog'.

Another good slab route. Getting to the first bolt is quite scary. Start 10 metres right of 'Astradyne', just left of a big block.

1. 35 metres (22) - Move up trending right to a ledge. Shake your way up creaky flakes to the first bolt. Hard moves follow this and then easily past two bolts to the ledge.

2. 10 metres - Up the crack and slab above to the left edge of a large alcove.

3. 45 metres (19) - Move up to a bolt (which is in about half an inch) then easily to the top.

Fantastic slab climbing on small edges. Just left of Mind and Body, this route is well equipped with bolts to rap anchors. Some gear is handy at the Zog Traverse (sloping ledge). 35m lower-off - 70m rope required. It is possible to continue up Astradyne or Mind and Body, both of which are run-out with 1 bolt and minimal gear; or up Lepton pitch 4 (nice climbing with good gear).

A good direct line up the steep slabs to the right of 'Zog'. A bolt protects the crux. The second pitch was originally unprotected but a bolt was added (at the beginning of the leftwards diagonal weakness) in 1992. Start beneath a vertical dyke of finely textured rock 3m left of 'Psychosomatic'.

1. 45 metres (20) - Up the short wall to the dyke, and climb this past the bolt then up the slab to a sloping ledge (the 'Zog' traverse). Climb the short wall to the left of a horizontal crack, exit onto the slab and delicately up and right to DBB (shared with 'Psychosomatic').

2. 35 metres (18) - Easily up the groove in 11 o'clock direction to a sloping ledge (the 'Lepton' ramp), then straight up the steep slab to a bolt in a faint leftwards diagonal weakness. Follow this left to the base of a dyke, and up this and the slab to belay at a large flake and groove (or, just continue up and right to the chain belay). Still serious at the grade, with the bolt acting as a navigation aid and effectively the only pro.

3. 10 metres - Easily up to a large ledge.

Not quite as good as the other routes on this wall. Start beneath the bolt five metres left of 'Astradyne'.

1. 35 metres - Climb up past the bolt (crux) to the 'Zog' traverse and then up the left-hand side of an obvious brown scoop to a horizontal break (bolt). Up past another bolt then continue to belay at a spike 3 metres right of the obvious ledge.

2. 25 metres - Climb the dark brown streak till a dyke is reached, trend right up this to a belay.

3. 30 metres - Up anywhere to finish.

The line of bolts just right of Echidna (sharing the first bolt).

1. 40m (19) Sustained, 8 bolts. Its possible to climb the route just on bolts but if you want to fill in the gaps take some some small cams and wires. Originally done on 5 bolts. Belay at the good ledge to the right of Echidna with double bolt anchors and twist shackles. Rap possible with double ropes.

2. 45m (15). Slab to the right of Echidna. Climb up over the short wall onto the slab and up past two bolts (run out, possible to place a cam in a pocket). Follow the right-trending shallow slab/groove to chain belay. Walk off or rap down for more climbing.

A well protected, classic slab route. Start at the shallow groove just left of 'Solitude'.

1. 15 metres (19) - Climb the groove past the bolt to belay at the blocks.

2. 25 metres (19) - Up and right to a bolt, then move left and up past two more to a ledge. Use a bracket or wire to clip the third bolt. Combination of the first and second pitches is recommended - take slings.

3. 40 metres - Up easily.

From the 3rd belay on Denethor, move past the start to the Ivory Coast crack, then follow the rising, featured scoop with good gear, to the barren slab. Straight up the steepening slab to shallow grooves and the large flake for some welcome protection. Around right or over the flake to the top.

An ascending traverse between 'Denethor' and 'Vent Crack' with some good climbing, but the second pitch is poorly protected and quite serious at the grade. Start at the left-hand end of 'The Terrace', below a crack 50 metres left of 'Vent Crack'.

1. 10 metres - Up the crack to a small belay stance.

2. 35 metres - Traverse right for 15 metres to a small scoop, then climb the wall on the right to a good ledge. Traverse easily right along the ledge to a crack.

3. 45 metres - Up the crack, then on up the slab above, tending left at the end.

Some good, easy and exposed climbing along a rightwards traverse. Starts at the top of Denethor P2. To get there, either climb Denethor P1 and P2 or carefully walk 10m left of Echidna and then climb Denethor P2 (the easy-angled groove).

1. 24 metres - Climb the groove and wall above to a stance in the corner on the right.

2. 10 metres - Climb the lichenous wall on the right, and then traverse right to an airy stance.

3. 18 metres - Continue right along the ledge past a flake to a vertical band of rock of fine texture.

4. 20 metres - Delightful, easy climbing up the band of rock. Continue up to a ledge with a corner belay.

5. 20 metres - Climb up the corner and trend right to easy slabs.

danger, unprotectable climb

A very bold on-sight lead. The climb has been repeated, but only after top-rope inspection. The unprotectable, snaking groove to the left of 'Zog'. Climb to the top of the flakes as for 'Zog', but then follow the thin groove straight up to join a ledge at the 'Girdle Traverse' level.

Just beautiful. It ascends a fragile flake to the right of 'Denethor', and is a great way to finish 'The Girdle Traverse' etc. At the start of the third pitch of 'Denethor', move right for about three metres to a ledge. Climb the leftwards leaning ramp behind to the obvious flake. Up the right hand side with tender loving care, then the slab above to belay.