Begehungen in Burston's Crevasse

Rapped in after Caligula to where the lower hand crack eases off. Awesome pitch. Offset small wires very handy for seam cryx

Imposing line. Whipped off the roof first go but pulled back on after a rest and felt ok - one to come back for.

Rack 2*0.75, 3*1-3, 2*4, couple of finger sized wires/cams for the top. Could have used another 3.

Great low commitment route

Top rope solo. Second doing this route. What a climb!

So good, broke it in two to maxi.ise the fun as we could only get on 1 route today

What a battle! Could not jam for the first 15ish meters because too wide for my hands. Had to shuffle #4 because was told I would need it at the top. Full on offwidth technique took a lot from me so I wanted to bail at least twice. Glad took 4 number #3. After the crack becomes smaller it is really pleasant. Put #0.75 before laybacking across the roof and don't think you need more to protect this move. However, could not find any good gear after the roof. Slinged a bush and put some dodgy cam but don't think It would take a fall probably next time try to find some nut placement or take #5 or #6 and carry it all the way to the top? Would like to od it in better style next time.

Dry and awesome.

Wet from top of pitch 1 to the lay back crux. Still awesome.

Extenuating and breathtaking in all senses. Unfortunately I took a fall on the laybacking at the top so I can't claim the onsight or red point (I did not split it in two pitches on purpose...) . The second go on the laybacking went well and "easy". Probably better not to bring backpack next time although the bladder with water helped.

Thrutchy first 30ish meters with lots of chicken wings then some nice jamming to the roof. From roof mistakenly crack climbed instead of laybacking. Afterwards lowered back down to roof and laybacked all the way to the top...beautiful moves!

Would be better from the new carrot belay

Fell off traverse on p.1 Traverse (hard) P2. The gear is is as good as you would like.

This is an excellent pitch. 3 carrots plus 2 for the belay.

Incredible sustained jamming experience. Feels like I ditched my L plates by the end of this one. Glad to have done this on top rope though I’d be interested in trying to lead it in two pitches. Took one rest near the top.

Amazing climbing, quite the exist 😅

Awesome route that stands as a test piece in the centre face of the south gorge. but unfortunately you get a false sense of confidence with the great jams turning to steep #4 offwidth. i did try some new stacking techniques but it's above me now unfortunately.

first pitch only. second is pro-less chimney, will rap in to try.

Lead as a single pitch, and geez what a line! Consistent crack climbing up to the roof, a couple of stonker placements and then some bloody bold moves.

I forgot how painful constantly jamming with one foot is! Took up triples of #1,2,3 camelots but really wished I had three more #3's

That hand crack! Pure bliss.

rapped in to about halfway with littlehammer to retrieve gear and try work out beta for the crux

cruised this until the layback traverse, then couldn't remember what i did on second last time, couldn't get anything to work, couldn't see footholds in the fading light either. a few big falls sliding down the slab because i didn't save bigger gear to protect the traverse

Just Brilliant

The fist and hand sections felt great (even if my backpack kept me out of the chimney). However, the layback moves at the crux felt nails.

Is this just more evidence that I can’t layback anymore? Fortunately my ego can be saved: seconding this route is much harder than leading since I had all the cams on my harness by the time I got to the crux. After I dogged it I took my backpack off and hung it on one of the spare #4s from my harness, and the layback went okay!

Tip 1: lead it, hog all onsight opportunities for the day. Tip 2: don’t take your pack down the crevasse. If you do, make your second go down to fetch it after the climb is over. Tip 3: save a #4 for the roof since no other gear will protect the traverse.

Lost the onsight just a few meter from the top, when my foot slipped after the roof at the beginning of the layback. Slightly disappointed but still happy to have done this mega climb! Nothing too hard, just good climbing and a lot of gear management and bumping up cams if you don’t have at least 3 or 4 cams #3

Did it with a set of wires, only a double rack of cams up to #4 and a set of hexes, which I thought would make up for the lack of medium cams. Ended up trying to place a big hex which got awkwardly stucked, let go all my french canadian swearing vocabulary trying to take it out, and finally just bumped up a BD #3 for at least 10-15 meters.

My feet hurt. GPS coordinates show the gully access to get to the bottom of the climb but we abseiled down from the tree directly above the finish. Not easy to locate.

One to come back to lead! On rappel the crack looked horrendously off-putting for small hands, but you can easily bridge the corner and side pull the crack to make up for it.

hell yeah, very nice corner up brilliant jams.

oh yeah, i took 1 #4 and 2 #3, you'd need 3 of each to be sane and not bump a cam 15m like i did, but bomber all the way.