Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Beehive Area | |||||
?? | Eagle Front (Project)
| 30m | |||
19 | Eagle Boy
| 30m | |||
20 | One Move Wonder
| 30m | |||
17 | Lazy Lizard
| 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Tree-Nembler
| 12m | |||
8 | ★ Bulahdelah Buttress
Climb the easy angled buttress left of the tree/ chimney on the north face of the buttress Erstbegehung: David Gray & Lewis Carey, 1980 | 15m | |||
15 | Grey Box
The route just left of chimney all on carrots (5). No anchor Erschliesser: Shane Trotter | 12m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ The Window Cleaner
Up on vibrant orange rock on ring bolts. Anchors way back on block to rappel from or loweroff last bolt | 14m | |||
21 | ★★ Golden Nectar
The route on the arete, past carrot to gain large bucket at ring. Then head up and left to tricky crux moves to large flatter. Head straight up on good edges to good undercling at lower offs. Erschliesser: Shane Trotter | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Golden nectar direct start
Straight up to 3rd bolt ( top rope this ) and then finish as for GN | 12m | |||
21 | ★ Just a little Pump
Average protection for a trad route, past scoop to jug and trend up into mossy corner to shared anchor | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Fairway
Past 4 RBs, the third with maillon, and one FH to new anchors. No trad gear needed any longer. | 15m | |||
20 | Toast and Jam
Just right of chimney on east face of buttress. Has been retro bolted with consent of FA. From 1st bolt head up and gain sneaky undercling to make 3rd clip easier. Balance move with high right foot gets you to the left side of break in mini roof. Old school shenanigans unlock the move across to the right and then up onto easier ground. Head up and right, some longer draws might help avoid a little rope drag on the way to the anchors above Fairway. A little painful to clean. Erstbegehung: Johnny Wilde | 16m, 5 | |||
20 | Chimney
Offwidth and chimney up to single bolt on left wall. | 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Lactic Glasses
The route just left of chimney trending left at top to shared anchors with T Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 22m | |||
23 | ★★ Trotter's Delight
From ledge hard crimps and a delicate move to get to 2nd bolt. Easier moves into vertical seam, then up and slightly left to hanging block. Bouldery crux can be done 2 ways, then easier ground to anchors Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2004 | 16m | |||
24 | ★★ Ironbark
Tricky start up to good jug, then bouldery moves up and right past 2nd bolt to gain large scoop. Heady moves leaving scoop and a tough clip to gain slanting seam up and right. Use Trotters Delight lower offs. Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 16m | |||
? Project
2 FHs with rusty bolts squeezed in between routes. Would probably be best removed. | |||||
24 | ★★ Yellow Box
Hard moves off ledge through horizontal then up to shared anchors with SB. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 1997 | 16m | |||
23 | ★★ Sticky box
The route on ring bolts closest to beehive tree. Up black water streak trending right to share finish with Yellow Box | 16m | |||
19 | Capilano
Crack close to beehive tree. Either crack to start works. | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Bees Neez
First climb up the ramp from beehive tree. Undercut start right of ferny crack- boulder up then traverse left towards cracked arête. | 10m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Bee Sting
First bolted route to left of crack on FHs. Bouldery undercut start trending right at 4th bolt, then stepping left above roof eft to tricky face moves. DRB | 15m, 9 | |||
22 | ★★ Horse breath
Start 2m L of route on FHs. Up through small overlaps to DBB Erstbegehung: V Wills & D Gray, 2013 | 17m, 8 | |||
22 | ★ Mad Trad
Start up alcove placing small gear then through overlap. More easily to ledge and short chimney then belay from ridge. Erstbegehung: John Wilde & Wortho, 1986 Erste freie Begeh.: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013 | 20m | |||
21 | ★ Pablo Honey
2m left of grasstree that leans against cliff, and just left of trad crack. Up and right at start to second bolt then follow bolts slightly left to DBB. Erstbegehung: V Wills & D Gray, 2013 | 16m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Single bolt
Come in from left passing single bolt that is hard to see. About 6 other bolt holes exist on this line with poor gear options. Unclear if abandoned project. Can be toproped now from anchors of PH. | 15m | |||
17 | Trad Lad
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Pollen
From near top of ramp step right passing 6 bolts with very small cam placements possible. Follows a blunt areteto the left of a groove visible high. Top out and belay on boulders Erschliesser: Shane Trotter | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | Bumble Bee
Start at ring bolt below roof at upper left end of ramp. Poor bolt placements, a medium cam needed and belay on boulders. Much easier if taller. Erschliesser: Shane Trotter | 12m, 3 | |||
16 | Unknown
| 65m | |||
Fieg's Overhang Flagpole Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Renaissance
Start down from the saddle on the western side at undercut handcrack. Up the crack Erstbegehung: David Gray & V Wills, 2013 | 20m | |||
8 | Lord Jim
AT the saddle there is a chimney, up chimney crawling under chockstone at top. Erstbegehung: David Gray, Lewis Carey & Michael Almond, 1980 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Used Car Delah
Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out Erstbegehung: David Gray & V Wills, 2013 | 15m | |||
13 | She-oak Crack
Start as for UCD but go right up gully at she-oak. Erstbegehung: David Gray & V Wills | 15m | |||
17 | Sedona
Climb wall and groove above small cave, a few metres left of Shattered Dreams to Double Ring Bolt belay. Erstbegehung: Dave Gray & V Wills, 2013 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Shattered Dreams
On the orange wall at a left diagonal seam. Up to ledge then right before back left to anchors. Best to abseil. Erstbegehung: V Wills & David Gray, 2013 | 15m, 6 | |||
Piper route
Up the blocky orange rock in the centre of the wall Erstbegehung: 2013 | 20m | ||||
19 | ★ Trigonometry
Start at right side of cave in centre of wall, past one bolt up groove and crack to overhung finish. (Can belay off flagpole bollard) Erstbegehung: David Gray & V Wills, 2013 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Bird Noises
Start as for HM, then take left leaning diagonal across wall to share finish with T. Erstbegehung: V Wills & David Gray, 2013 | 20m | |||
15 | Half Mast
Up the corner at the right hand end of the wall/ ledge. At top veer left. Erstbegehung: V Wills & David Gray | 20m | |||
Fieg's Overhang Golden Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Crossing To The Dark Side
Shared start going left to over bulge and up head wall to left lower off. Erstbegehung: John Mullan & Jason Piper, 2013 | 16m, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Not So Dark Side
Shared start up slab trending right to tough finish. Erstbegehung: John Mullan & Jason Piper, 2013 | 17m, 8 | |||
Fieg's Overhang Fiegs Cave | |||||
27 | ★★★ Foghorn Leghorn
Diagonally right through slight cave and straight up (crux) to the second set of lower offs. Rebolted & Extension added 2004 - Wilde/Jefferson Erstbegehung: George Fieg Erschliesser: George Fieg, 1997 | 18m, 8 | |||
Project
| 20m | ||||
28 | ??????? 2
| 22m | |||
26 | ★★ Indian Fieg Wrestling
Just left of Foghorn, reach the start jug off the top of the boulder. Follow fixed hangers up and right into cavelets. Then traverse left past ring to kneebar rest. Clip another ring then a tough final move to the anchors. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper | 15m | |||
JP Project
| |||||
JP Proj
| |||||
dan proj
| 18m | ||||
Fieg's Overhang Fiegs Right Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Haasnoot Been Done
Starts on ledge at base of ramp up to DBB at right facing corner Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 17 Jul 2021 | 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Comp Kid Classic
Climb 5/6 of Haasnoot been done, then go across left and up staying on good clean rock. Long quick draw length required around the corner and for the last bolt runner of Haasnoot been done. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 21 Jun 2022 | 15m | |||
24 | ★★ Bugs Bunny
Starts 2m left of Sarah's Climb. Up into the first cave, then tough move to second cave and out pumpy finish. Fixed hangers. Erstbegehung: Tim Haasnoot, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Sky Pilot
Crux is a pumper @ 3rd ring. On upper tier starting above handlebar route. Trends initially right and then left to anchors. Some poor rock towards the top. 60m rope won't get you and your belayer to the ground. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 2004 | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Ridin the rope
Start at the top of Sarah's Climb. 5 rings and 2 U-bolt loweroff. Crux from 2nd ring to 5th. Erstbegehung: Justin Jefferson & John Wilde, 2004 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Sarah's Climb
Originally graded 22!! Start in the small alcove, up the U bolts to finish below the upper wall. Try not to drift to far right. Erstbegehung: Sarah Fieg | 12m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Acme Corporation
Start just left of the tree, 2m to the right of Sarah's Climb. Up trending left to halfway anchors. Continue up on the fixed hangers on a tough move off the ledge. Erstbegehung: Brad Williams, 2013 | 24m, 10 | |||
19 | ★ Acme Corporation P2
Step R from anchors on ramp and up through roof to easier ground. Shares anchors with PATB. | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Pinky and The Brain
Start just to right of tree at base of wall and to left of crack. Up following fixed hangers crossing diagonal ramp. Extend draws to avoid rope drag. Up and left after taking weakness through roof, to shared anchors with AC. Erstbegehung: Tim Haasnoot, 2013 | 24m, 12 | |||
10 | Diagonal ramp
A way of access to upper tier. Can be soloed though rock a bit soapy. Some trad gear helps. Start right of large tree at hand sized crack then left up ramp.Go past anchors above SF, and continue to Sky Pilot. Erstbegehung: J Wilde | 20m | |||
18 | ★ New route
Start as for MB but go left after second bolt. Take care with flakes. Shares anchors with MB Erstbegehung: j Wilde, 2017 | 15m, 6 | |||
16 | First Of Many
Its not the first route, but definitely an early one. The striking fist sized right slanting corner- crack. Clean orange rock half way up. Erstbegehung: John Wilde & Dan Rogers, 1984 | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Meat and Beer
Line of fixed hangers up the groove on the wall left and down from the Bee Hive Wall. New lower off anchors. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 2006 | 18m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Crackpot
Up the crack right of meat and beer to join that route at its second last bolt and shared anchors. Some small gear needed. Possible not to use bolts where routes join if you are a purist. Erstbegehung: Vanessa Wills & David Gray | 15m | |||
Tim Proj
| 14m | ||||
Hoppy's Cave | |||||
16 | Goanna Walk
| 60m | |||
20 | J Wilde route
Starts on the outside of the cave. Batman to first bolt then climb past first set of anchors to second. Erstbegehung: john Wilde | 30m | |||
24 | D Wilde route
As for J Wilde route, but boulder the start to first set of anchors. Just guessing at grade. Erstbegehung: Dan Wilde | 15m | |||
26/27 | ★ Vulcanian
Start in the back of the cave, out to rooflet and up via interesting holds to the sting in the tail and double bolt anchor. Erstbegehung: nathanual hebbard, 25 Sep 2022 | 12m, 9 | |||
25 | ★ The 14th Phalange
Fixed hangers and rings. Starts 2m right of Vulcanian, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper | 10m | |||
25 | ★★ Toasted link
Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going! Erschliesser: Jason Piper Erstbegehung: Tim Haasnoot | 8m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Toast
Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off. Erstbegehung: Ian Geatches, 1997 | 10m | |||
26 | ★★★ Karma Gettin
One for the budding pumpers. Climb Toast, then head straight up past 4 RB's to start of a diagonal ramp. Route then moves up right along ramp for 2 RB's. From here blast straight up and around a cruxy bulge to anchors with wire gate lower-offs. 12 rings in total. Erstbegehung: JJ, 2004 | 24m | |||
25 | ★ Troglodyte (Pitch 1)
Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 2004 | 15m | |||
25 | Troglodyte (Pitch 2)
Better rock and steeper moves can be found in this upper section of Troglodyte. Climb left then up forever from the anchors of pitch 1. Linking both pitches from the ground may not have been done yet? Erstbegehung: Dan Wilde, 2008 | 15m | |||
30 | Jason's Misanthropic Newcastle Development Plan
PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2017 | 40m | |||
26 | ★★ Pulling the Troglodytes Plonka
Climb PYP to the plonka, then go left to join troglodyte below the anchors of pitch 1. Climb 2 bolts of trog pitch 2 before climbing up and right past a fixed hanger to independent anchors (seized wiregates). Shenanigans to avoid terrible rope drag. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Pull Ya Plonka
Up the overhanging, leftward trending wall past purple coloured sheild, up to the "plonka" at the semi-rest then trough another overhang to lower off in cave. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 1997 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Mrs Troglodyte
Climb PYP, past it's crux. Then head hard left through small stalactite, steep but good holds. Joins in the last part of Troglodyte second pitch. A number of the draws need to be extended more than you'd think to make life easier. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 9 Jan 2021 | 25m, 12 | |||
27 | ★★★ Sugar Monster
An endurance resistance monster! Climb "Pull ya Plonka" then continue along the massive overhang to finish 5m left of the black leg anchors. Take long draws and about 4x 600mm slings Erstbegehung: JJ, 2008 | 33m | |||
29 | Sugar Habit
Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2012 | 40m | |||
23 | ★ Young and dumb
Starts with the ring on the sloping lip. Right of Pull ya,head out towards the centre of the cave, tricky move under the lip. Head up towards the pink threader. Easiest of the 23's here! Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 12m | |||
22 | Left Traverse
Prob the easiset warm-up in the cave. Starting 2m left of black leg, mantle up and traverse out left to the edge of the cave. Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 12m | |||
25 M1 | Black Leg Miner (Alternate Start)
| 10m | |||
23 | ★★ Pudding Pullers
A great introduction to climbing in the cave. Finishes on the obvious laydown ledge. Historical name restored. Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 10m | |||
24 | Black Leg Minor - Pitch 2
Start on the high pedestal 2m to right of lie-down cave on BLM. 2 bolts and 2 moves to the cave. Continue to anchors on BLM. May be the same as 'BLM Alternative start' 25M1 except it's not aid, and as it's technically a bit easier than Legless Miner gave it 24, even though one is still doing the crux of BLM (last bolt and clip). | 12m | |||
25 | ★★★ Black Leg Miner
A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 1997 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Long Wall Mining
Start on the small pedestal as for BLM alt start, head out left between stalactite and small cave, head out staying just right of "Sugar Monster" Erstbegehung: Dan wilde, 2008 | 22m, 12 | |||
24 | ★★ Legless Miner
Starts at the Fresh Gording ledge and links up with Black Leg Miner to finish on the same anchors. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2012 | 16m | |||
27 | ★★★ Legless Miner Full Extension
Legless miner, continuing into COH Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2022 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★ Flesh Gording
Start in the very back of cave, some sharp holds lead to some funky knee baring and roof moves. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2004 | 15m, 8 | |||
28 | ★★★ Creature of Habit
Prob the longest route in the cave. Sent in classic Jase style with about 25 knee bars, maybe a few less for regular folks! Start by climbing Flesh Gording, then keep traversing left past anchors of Long Wall Mining and Sugar Monster, going all the way out to the lip (day light) of the whole cave. Be careful, there is a lot of bird guano and dust up towards the end and some lose rock. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2009 | 35m | |||
28 | Special Internal Shine Time
Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 25 Nov 2020 | 30m | |||
23 | ★ Pigeons Don't Pinch
Start as for PFN- up block then climb right around and under roof to anchors of Trotters Trifecta 2. A short route worthwhile in its own right. Erstbegehung: John Wilde, 1997 | 9m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Pigeon Fancers Nightmare
Start at back of cave near pinkish rock. Up easily to clip first bolt from ledge then climb out rib via good pocket heading left around to anchors of BLM. Can keep going left and all the way out to lip of cave. Back climb to clean. Erstbegehung: John Wilde & Tim Phelan, 1997 | 12m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★ Trotters Trifecta 2
The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2004 | 10m | |||
27 | ★★★ Pinching Pidgeons
Climb Trotter's Trifecta 2 to anchors, then keep traversing out right pinching and kneebar to anchors at lip of cave. Erstbegehung: Jason Piper, 2005 | 25m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★★ On The Prow
Climb the hanging prow to finish on Pinching Pigeons. Batman to first ring then head out on the pockets to a big dyno. Erschliesser: Tim Haasnoot & Jason Piper, 2010 Erstbegehung: Tim Haasnoot, 2012 | 19m, 9 | |||
26 | ★ Wildie's Warmup
Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt. Erstbegehung: John Wilde | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Wilde's Poo Warm up
Start as for Powdered Poo finishing on Wildie's Warmup. A more pleasant warmup. | 12m |