Einträge in Barron Gorge

The Barron Gorge of the Barron Gorge National Park stretches from near Kuranda down to Caravonica. It houses a mass amount of bouldering trailing along the gorge (and thankfully the road - meaning easy access). There is also some sport and trad close to the hydro-station.

Each of the sub-areas or fields are listed on here in order from upstream to downstream to suit the map (a good guide). Coordinates, landmarks, and signs are used for locating many of the parking spots.

The rocks are a part of the Hodgkinson Formation. Mostly metamorphosed mudstones and other sedimentary units ie. hardened shale, slate, and phyllite. Potentially houses some granitic blocs downstream from landslide deposit too.

Walking upstream, on your right across from two large cliffs that are on your left, there sits an eight metre wall with a small roof type structure upon it. Here lies the beginnings of the trad upstream of the power station.

Follow left hand blocky crack up past roof (or under it). Roof is not well protected so advised going just left of it. Final section of crack can house a nice fit of a size 11 Hexcentric. Rappel off high fig root

Follow crack up past blocky ledge, fine crack can use cams up to size 1 or 2 even. Rappel off tree to left of end of climb.

Numerous large boulders scattered throughout gorge. Here lies a list of the majority of the ones climbed so far that are worth trekking to.

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Sit start fully under boulder matched on good edge, move to lip and mantle, reach for roof above and mantle again.

Cameron Whycherley

Start on wobbly jug, up and mantle.

Cameron Whycherley

Stand start at pocket and good undercling, smear up to good crack and edges to work to top lip. Also an easier variation left of the line.

Stand start low with two positive underclings and good low feet, slap for lip and mantle

Stand/squat start with low edge, gain sidepull and lip and topout.

Start squatted with two smears and underclings. Gain sidepull and throw/reach for good lip holds. Steadily get on up to topout.

Start standing with two good edges and high left foot and right heel. Work to right high crack/rail near plant and pop up over the lip.

Stellar line as dyno from right of start but the start hold popped (has one remaining but is more difficult).

Kieran's first ever established outdoor problem

Kieran Pates

Compression, bumps, heel, mantle.

Located just in front of Radiation Wall.

Cameron Whycherley

Stand start, balance your way up the left side of the arete.

Stand start on two edges above your head. Go up through sharp sidepull crimp and mantle left on slightly better holds.

Callum Mather

Stand start L of arete. Move from large edges through blank flace using small crimps and arete to gain high features near lip.

Harder if short.. Move through large edges, high small crimp and sidepull feature where flake used to be.

Stand start on with obvious ledges. Move up to good edges and into high undercling. Possibly a little height dependent

Sit start at base of arete on blocky features, up through small slopey edges and better features up high.

Sit start with low big edge and move up through crack feature.

Sit start low, moving up into crack feature with finger locks and cool windy moves.

Short line located between ETE wall and SF boulder.

Cameron Whycherley

Start low and matched on pocket. Head out left to an awkward finish on slopers. (History as One Armed Bear Hug V2- unknown FA name, was called Awkward Top (V3) as an assumed FA by Cameron before we saw youtube video of this)

Sit start matched on pocket as for adjacent route. Move through the steepness up R on pockets and good holds. A nice easy line to get a taste of some overhung goodness.

Similar to Sneaky Frog except instead of veering right, go directly up through the middle. Neatly placed yet oddly angled holds.

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Short easy corner near the waterfall's location on the right side of the gorge.

Squeeze up the slopey arete.

Find a way to pull on without getting your feet wet and head straight up on wacky slopey holds before doing a committing move to the victory jug.

Sit start with awesome pinch, up arete to mantle on the right side.

Start on the right side of the arete with RH crimp and LH sloper with toehooks on the awesome pinch. Work your toes up the arete and throw for jug.

Establish on the slab with RH edge and work your way up.

Establish on slab with LH edge and work your way up.

Stand up to crimp rail and work your way up.

Stand start, up right side of arete.

Sit start at the base of the arete, do a couple moves and mantle at the juggy bit.

Sit start crossed on diagonal crimps. Make your way left and up on a series of diagonal edges and an underling.

Start on the good RH edge and the small LH crimp. Up to the edge in the face, then head through comfy slopers.

Sit start with slopey edge low on arete and the hold just above big undercling. Slap slap slap and finish as for the stand start.

Sit start, up through slick jugs to the top. Excellent.

Start low on big jug, move left and up through sidepulls and jugs. Up arete to mantle.

Mantle goodness!! Sit start on opposing side pulls in centre of face. Make a long move to the diagonal edge, then push to crack before a committing mantle high off the deck, on the smoooooth sloping ramp. Variant finish: Continue traversing R along top slopey edge to top out at arete (to be done). Note: Sit start added 9/7/18 by Hugo Leroy.

Start on two obvious slopey features on side face of boulder. Move into jug and traverse up and L along slopey edges to top out at highest point.

Stand start at obvious ledge. High step and mantle to gain high features near lip. Avoid features on lower arete.

Sit start with small LH sidepull crimp and RH crimp. Up through cystal crimp features, to flake. Top out out on series of shallow slopey holds.

Jared Tyerman

Start as for CM the trend out left to good holds and come back in to same top as CM. Fun easier alternative to CM.

Sit start mini layback, head up into thumb press and pop to edge pinch. Gain lip and topout.

These climbs are located on the 2nd wall to the right of MM & CM.

Sit start on holds as layback, press up into higher white vein ledge then traverse into large flake/layback. Gain lip and topout.

Start on right arete/featured corner (near the large beaten up metal cart) with jug feature and right sloper feature. Get up to white vein mini ledge/edge and get to high hold/lip for topout.

Sit start at arete and move through good holds up and R. Top out high

Start with series of jugs, heading up before making long moves through the blank section to holds near the lip. Top out at high point.

Sit start, moving directly up from the obvious good edge, through the prominent boomerang shaped feature, to top out on crimps over the lip.

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Sit start at base of arete with RH crimp sidepull, and LH crimp on main face. Pull a long move into crimp pocket on face before using good hold to gain sloping ledge for topout.

Stand start, up arete and mantle on the right side.

On the clean vertical face approximately 1.5m to the right of the obvious corner crack, through series of pocketed crimps. Good clean face climbing.

Stem your way up the crack.

Start in the corner, move left and finish up arete. Trust those feet!

Compression climbing directly up the prominent fridge feature.

Callum Mather

Sweet slappin'! Hug your way up the immaculate fridge feature.

Start on slopers, big move to jug and mantle.

Start in jug scoop, throw a heel and wrestle your way up on slopers to mantle.

Sit start, cruisy juggin'.

Start low under the bulge, slap your way up.

Start with pinch and undercling on arete, up and left through edges to a tricky mantle.

Start matched on the low rail, straight up through board style goodness.

Start at head height on lowest set of good slots, go up right to edge then left to pinch. Move back right on good slopers and mantle.

Stand start with pocket and jug, up through the deceiving wall of faux jugs.

Big committing dyno. Would need to build a landing but it's rad.

Start in the middle of the roof on good edges. Move up and left to finish on RH edge and LH sloper with a left knee-bar in.

Start low on undercling, puzzle your way through the steep and finish as for Tadpole.

Start on set of small crimps, traverse left through big moves on good edges, then finish as for Tadpole.

Start on set of small crimps, move up and right through shouldery climbing, finish on undercling.

Start low on the arete and on lowest good edge in the steep, compress your way through the sickness to glory.

Sit start on obvious edge, traverse left through crimps, big move to jugs, then mantle.

Start low on sloping edge and arete, work your way up the arete via big moves and mantle when you hit the scoop up top. Great boulder with a great backdrop.

Avoid the detached block at the bottom.

Start up the juggy ramp before taking some deep breaths and trusting your feet as you traverse right and up to gain the arete and top out.

Start in the hole near the water and begin the long journey up this committing, scenic and excellent highball slab.

Start in the hole near the water. Start on jug on the left and make your way up using the three finger pocket.

Ought to be fairly amazing.

A short vertical face on the east side of the Barron Gorge, opposite to the power station. Literally parallel with the angle of the power station wall. It is located approx. 200m upstream of the power station bridge in the Barron Gorge. The rock itself is likely black shale.

Nice climbing. Due to some loose rock and the traversing nature of some climbs (providing swing potential) it is recommended to climb and belay with helmets.

'TFG' at start of climb. A little faded.

'M' at start of climb.

Climb Mystic until 4th bolt, then go left to last bolt and anchor of ST.

Climb Mystic until 3rd bolt, then go left to 3rd bolt of ST. Go to its anchor. Cruxy.

Climb ST until 3rd bolt, then go right to 3rd bolt of Mystic. Go to its anchor. Goes through all the cruxes.

Jared Tyerman

'ST' at start of climb. To left most anchor. Ideal to stick clip 1st bolt. 3.5 BD cam fits in crack between 1st and 2nd bolt if desired.

A creek line with some scattered boulders. A bit of a mission with higher water levels to access.

Squat start going up on edges to sloper and funky topout. Boulder after rock hopping about a third of the way to the main pool. Attempted a sit start but never went.

A long move

Steep edgey goodness

Shady Wall is situated below the power station in Barron Gorge National Park.

It's on the other side of the river to the road. The crag gets shade in the afternoon. All climbs are able to be done on toprope with natural anchors, and a few can be led with natural pro as well. There are some climbs here that have been top-roped to around grade 23/24. It's assumed that there are other climbs here too.

Jari says "It's a crack climb...overhung, very pumpy first half, crack thins out and climb gets very balancy".

Surmounts a 2m roof then easier climbing through a delicate mantle and lay-away.

Corner/face climb. First 3m is an easy 19 which ends with "I can climb this with sneakers on" territory. Good for warm-ups.

Large roof boulders and scattered boulders across river from Mackas Bluff. A morning climbing area (if crossing river from Mackas Bluff rather than walking down from hydro station or paddling) as the water levels rise in the afternoon from power station discharge.