Routen als traditionell in Omega Block Area

Juggy wall 20m up left of Straining Rail.

Face 2m right of Pockets

Pronounced diagonal line. Strenuous.

Up and right from 1 metre right of the route Straining Rail

Undercut wide crack on the left edge of the downhill face. Long pull diagonally up right or jump to start for those without the span. Easy crack above.

Original description taken from VCC North West VIC guide... historical reference only. Start 3m right of Chain on the nose of the blank buttress. POOR PRO. Past fixed wire (you might call it that?!) left and up to ledge. Straight up wall delicately above. SHAKY PRO. New bolted routes (Tough Love and Here Come the Bastards) make this route pretty much obsolete, retro bolt with full permission from M.Law.

Refer to Privy Block

Up and right to ledge. Crack above.

The obvious line. Awkward start.

3m right of S-Bend. Step L to obvious jug and up the bulge steeply

5m right of Dominance and Submission at the base of a big block on the face. Straight up the groove/crack, then step right and up the wall right of the crack.

On the block above as for Tyranny and Mutation, up to a FH, Step L to the groove/crack and up the wall L of it.

Up and left onto the dished wall and sea of moss.

Crack on the right side of the block

Start 3m left of Nosferatu. BR, flake and past a 2nd BR.

Face just left of the red wall. 2 BR

Face and corner 2m left of XT Cherie.

Climb the flake.

Start left of arete and up face

The left arête, 1FH plus trad stuff to lower-off.

Start just right of Break Like the Wind. Starts off small block directly below arete, directly up left arete on small holds past FH (crux) to pocket and jugs to intermittent crack. Lower off above Low Life!

At the LH end of the Lower Tier, there are three buttresses facing towards Hanging Rock just before the cliff breaks down. These are reached by scrambling down below the Leaky Bucket area and following the path back up again on the other side of the first buttress.

1. 39m Climb the mossy, slabby middle buttress (3m right of a burnt out tree which makes a good landmark) to the top

2. 10m Move the belay by walking across the buttress to a large white tree and another big mossy buttress

3. 33m Straight up to a steep wall with a crack. Move right below the steep wall to another bulge and finish up another crack

On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide.

Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge.

Start in Chimney left of Grey Arete, continue up chimney, to a slabby finish. Don't mind the moss, that rains down on you with any slight breeze. Claimed to have been climbed in 2018 probably more like 1960s when that kinda climbing was all the rages.

Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully).

Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slug's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top.

At top of gully above Slug Wall. Scramble up corner below grey wall then left around bulge to finish

Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed.

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. Not run out but fiddly gear that some will not be happy with. Take care.

The original route starts up the 8m mossy, juggy face of Little Jumble Gully to the ledge where Underseige & Keystones originally started. Pitch 2 is the obvious crack and groove in the grey/orange wall between Underseige & Keystones

Best way to do Keystones. Start up Underseige clipping bolt to the break (gear), then traverse right to the ledge. Follow ramp up to Keystones. 2nd bolt can be clipped from the corner on right before stepping back to the line directly below it.

The lower arete was rebolted with consultation of the FA in Oct 2018, this still requires mixed gear. Follow the initial arete past 3 FHs and onto the slab. Up the slab past another FH to gain the little rooflet, round this past another FH then up the top arete onto it L side to DB lower off. Michael did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for the FA, ha ha!

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up arete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018. Start: just left of Poxbow under obvious corner. Up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by 3RBs bolt to rap station

The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move.

This was the original way 'Poxbow' was done and is still a great piece of climbing. From the slabby ground, instead of moving up to the chalked flake edge, traverse around R onto the nose on surprisingly large holds. Pull up the two pocketed bulges directly above. DRBs.

As for Poxbow past the crux then finish on left arete (as for Blind Sox) rather than traversing right on the flake (FA Solo)

The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so add a grade or two if you start that way.

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

1. 18m (12) Bridge the 8m of Oxbow to the chockstone. Step off and climb the L wall moving to near the arete. Select pockets carefully then pull over the bulge to a large ledge and bolt belay.

2. 12m (11) Climb the face just R of the prominent crack-line in the wall above to a big ledge.

3. 45m (7) Up the arete/rib on the L (as for Oxbow) , for 15m to Oxbow's small 2nd belay stance. Pull over the little bulge above and scramble easily to the summit of the Omega block. Descend - scrambling down the juggy NE arete/blocks or rap-off RH side bolts (see details in Omega Block)

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

1. 33m (6) The chimney is climbed all the way to the ledge.

2. 25m (6) The steep little 6m wall on the L to a large ledge. Move L and continue up the clean arete/rib to a small airy belay stance.

3. 32m (6) Traverse L (tending slightly down) past the chimney and around the exposed arete. Step across the chimney and continue to a roomy ledge and cave.

4. 20m (6) Crux pitch! Wander up through the easy cave/chimney to exit conveniently in the descent gully behind the Omega Block. Note the original 30m last pitch, reversed the last 4m of the traverse and climbed up the juggy groove to the top. This is very mossy and doesnt add much to the route.

Okay climb with a little bit of caving. 1) 21m (8) Climb Dummy bidder all the way to the top and then belay. 2) 18m (7) Head right at the top of Dummy bidder and make your way around large boulder. Belay behind the boulder. 3) 8m (8) Here is the fun part head up tricky wall and through the small tunnel. Belay after tunnel. 4) 12m (3) head up the wall and belay at Black Magic area and then walk off.

Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top

Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R

Nice little trad route on a sport climbing wall, mostly independent of Warfront. Start 1m right of WF. Gain the diagonal break without resorting to bridging, good #3 Camalot. Straight up to a good #1 1/2 flexible friend 1m below WF's top bolt. Diagonal up right to a little turret, medium wire then up steeply to the anchors. (If you bridge the start, call it 16.)

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

Up 'Romulus' to ledge below bolt on 'Wishful Thinking'. Up on right side of bolt to finger crack (bomber nut placement), avoiding the temptation to bridge across the 'Romulus' gap, then continue using crack or thin edges until jugs are reached.

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Hidden in the moss, a far R fine flake feature.

Grey water runnel on the L side of the slab - very poorly protected. Bridge up and onto the slab start, then up the R side of the enjoyable groove

Straight up the wall between 'Sze' and 'Drain Pipes'.

Lovely climbing up the pockety groove in the middle of the wall opposite Witch and 3m R of Sze.The actual cruz moves are a wee bit bold if you are pushing the grade.

Starts 2m R of Drain Pipe. Climb the wide crack (on its R side) to the little overhang. Pull thru on the jugs (not protected) or toddle up R to good cams before stepping L onto juggy wall(long sling runners).

2m R drainpipes. Climb wide crack on its R side, pull through overhang and zoom to top

A minor addition. Start below 3rd bolt on My Only Wish. Boulder through bulge then clip last FH on Into Oblivion, following that to its conclusion (wires/cams).

Best climb on the wall? Links up all the good stuff and avoids the contrived finish of MOW to give a really quality pumper. Add superb morning sun and brand new rings and this should be a great crag warm up. Start at IO, clip second FH with an extender, left under the lip as for MOW to last bolt. Instead of staying left gain sloper and follow obvious line of holds straight up to easier finish.

Start below FH and shallow corner 2m right of MOW. A few moves up this then diagonally left past 3 FH then medium wires 0.75-2 cams to chain. Re-bolted 2016 but needs further cleaning. Can be finished direct above 3rd bolt as for COC.

Pleasant link up. Start up The Down Spiral to just short of the 4th FH, step L to Into Oblivion's 3rd FH finishing up that climb.

Right hand trad variant of 'The Downward Spiral'.

Start as for 'The Downward Spiral', but head slightly right after the first bolt. Rejoin 'The Downward Spiral' at last bolt.

Has enough gear (just) and still a little bit of moss.