Routen als traditionell in Hazards Cliffs

Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney.

1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle.

2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required.

Follow 'Sealevel Traverse' until Flowstone Wall is first seen. This route is the short overhung corner.

1. 20m. Up corner to a large ledge.

2. 25m. Follow the flakes to other ledge. Abseil off.

Pan-dimensional hyperclassic line and location. Not bad climbing either. The arête right of Dumpster.

1. 18m 20. Climb the arête to the foot of the corner.

2. 25m 24. Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step L onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend L to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.

The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête.

1. 20m 20 - As for Where in the Stain is Snedn.

2. 30m 25 - Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases.

3. 30m 22 - Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.

Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to ledge and BB below The Hourglass corner.

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

Start up Augmentium and at the higher of the two traversing cracks bust out right via some committing moves.

Traverse R climbing past Simply The Best. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the crux. Continue up the crack to the top.

You need at least a #4 cam for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.

The obvious crack splitting the wall 5m left of Simply the Best.

Probably the best trad climb in Tasmania.

The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.

A slabby day out. Easy to follow. Bring some smaller wires and cams .1 to 3 BD.

Start 20m L of Japhlion, 8m to the left of a right facing corner and arete.

1. 45m (15) Up the crack for about 10m until confident enough to move right onto the slab, then head boldly towards the top RH corner of slab. Drop off the edge of slab into the gully and go up to the second tree belay.

2. 40m (14) Thrash through tree and step out right onto slab. Head up and right but staying away from the vegetation. Belay in the gully on the Left.

3. 35m (16) Solo diagonally out left and up to a hollow sounding flake. Continue soloing directly up the weakness towards the small shrub in the steeper slab. Continue up easy slab above to a bush belay in the left hand gully.

4. 45m (14) Up the slab trending slightly left, to a wire belay just below the steeper headwall.

5. 30m (16) Up the right leaning crack below the headwall. Pull around this and onto the slab above and belay on large ledge with a trees.

6. 45m (16) Step across a gutter onto the wall behind (don't fall) and follow the slab above to the top.

1. 50m (16) Follow flakes for 20 m then step left and run it out to a pocket full of quartz crystals, then continue to belay near a small tree.

2. 45m (16) Step left off ledge. Straight up the slab past the overlap. Belay in zen-like cavey scoop on the slab.

3. 55m (15) Exciting climbing up the slab to an overlap (gear), then follow the gully/crack on the right (staying to its left) to belay in the gully about 15m below the steep corner.

4. 45m (16) Up to the steep corner (vertical rock? wha-a-at!?) and climb it to a chimney. Get back into slab mode and follow thin crack, tending right to a belay.

5. 50m (8) Up easy slabs to the top.

Rack - Wires and cams up to BD#4. Small cams (C3s etc) are very useful. Protection could be considered sparse for leaders not confident at the grade.

A very nice well-protected slab route accessed by abseil from the top of the Main Wall - a worthy companion to Winning Streaks. Follow the Skyline Traverse track past the top of the Suzuki Complex to the top of the Main Wall. Where the track levels off, and shortly before the top of Japhlion, a squeeze through a slot gives access to a short leaf filled gully on the sea side with a gum tree growing out of it. Down this for about 10m to a scrubby ledge that leads back left 20m towards Sleepy Bay and two U-bolts on the wall above. Abseil 80m (1x25m/1x35m/1x25m) off double U bolt anchors to a small stance at the base of a clean crack on the slab, above the steepening, where you can build a trad anchor.

1. 25m 17 Climb the clean crack up the slab with good gear to a double bolt anchor at a small stance.

2. 35m 17 Follow the line of bolts up the polished water streak to a double bolt anchor on a scrubby ledge. Fully bolted with a couple of optional gear placements.

3. 25m 17 Climb the slab past two bolts to a cam placement in a flake, step left and follow the well protected corner to a tricky little slab then the top.

Slab climbing past a couple of carrots.

As For Stud city until the obvious overlap is reached. Continue up the corner left of the overlap until a bolt on the arete can be seen. Clip the bolt and wildly move around the arete. Another bolt then DBB. Rap here (57m) or optional third pitch, mixed with 2 bolts. To descend, walk right past SC to regular abseil point.

An alternate finish to Stud City. Crack currently full of dirt and grass making it impossible to climb without rap cleaning it first

Classic old school trad climbing with ample protection to keep things sane.

1. (17) Start at the large tree below the short right trending corner. Climb this to the large hollow flake, then traverse right along this until you reach an open groove. Follow this up to a ledge and belay.

2. (18) Follow hand cracks into corner system. Traverse right on the massive flake (#4), then traverse across the slab for 3 meters to belay on a tussock.

3. (19) Up tricky off-width, followed by smooth finger crack, stepping left onto the face as needed when it gets desperate.

From the top of the last pitch traverse (roped up) about 30m in the direction of sleepy bay carpark. A crawl though some shrubs finds you the rap point. 50m rap to huge vegetated ledge. Another 25-30m rap brings you to the ground from here (100m away from the base of the route)

Pitch 1 (40m, 17) - as for Stud City.

Pitch 2 (30m, 17) - Climb crack in corner for about 10 metres, then instead of continuing up into the huge flake of Stud City, traverse right along the lower overlap, aiming for a bolt, followed by good but spaced gear in the seam. When the overlap peters out, continue traversing horizontally past another bolt and some more gear, then around the arete and up to a good belay on a sloping ledge.

Pitch 3 (30m, 16) - Original route goes up arete on the left, but staying in the corner/groove seems more logical. Follow corner system to big ledge with trees. From here, either rap from shitty small shrubs (sketchy), or -

Pitch 4 (20m, 15) - Up the corner with nice moves and good gear to spacious ledge under big cave.

Pitch 5 (30m, 10) - Traverse 10m right to weakness in overhang. Easy slabs to top without much pro.

The huge detached flake on the right side of the tier is known as "The Dragon". Start up the first gully to the left of The Dragon.

1. 25m (15) Up the gully until you can mount the ledge on the right (level with the base of the Dragon). Walk along the ledge, inside the dragon, and right down its throat until chockstones block your path.

2. 40m (15) Get out of there! The only way is up.

A fantastic route that is well worth the effort to get to.

Start: At the centre of the crag, the cliff line changes direction from facing north to north-west. At this point is a detached buttress which houses this superb route.

On the north-easte side visible when coming from Sleepy Bay. Hand crack to offwidth past a small bonsai at the start and a bigger one mid route. Belay on tree at top and/ or scramble down gully to the left

Variant to Bonsai avoiding the offwidth section

Right of the Wave are two cracks and then another crack with a big block at its base.

1. 13, 30m, Climb the block and climb the lay back crack to a ledge. Follow the undercling flake up to the DBB of PW. Belay here.

2. 10, 45m, From the belay walk right ten metres to the base of another flake. Follow the flake for 20m until it ends. Follow your nose up to the top and belay where possible.

A worthwhile and well-protected route with a view. Take a full rack of cam up to #5. Nuts may not be necessary.

Traverse along the horizontal from right at Razoo to just left of Dead Can't Dance.

On the right (upper) wall of the crag there is a prominent left leaning off-width. This route climbs the left arete of the off-width, offering steep and good climbing at the grade.

Excellent climbing up the arete right of I. Bouldery start up right side of arete to jugs and good gear. Steep!

The desperately thin finger crack to the right. Big moves between good locks with tiny feet.

Razors.

On the South Park boulders, in the middle of the three biggest is one for the belayers. Up the awkward handcrack to finish up black water runnel. Tape up!