Routen in Devil's Peak

Sit Start on low jugs on the arete, head directly up arete and top out.

Sit Start 1m right of juggy arete on RH side jug and LH sloper just left. Head up top via 2 slopers to better edges trending slightly L to top out.

Start as for Blastoise but with good side pull in LH. Up to fingerstack pocket and right (over the top of the Black Boy) to top out

Sit-start with LH on the good side-pull and RH on the low slopey crimp. Work up and sightly right using the obvious crimps and less obvious footers. The tension is sublime.

Sit Start in small alcove. Head up and left via big scoop and top out.

Sit Start as for Theo's Warm up but head directly up and then right via crimps to a juggy top out.

start as for Pink power ranger. instead of continuing up and right- make a long move straight for the top from the hollow crimp/ crimp rail Use the warm ups jug on the left for a heel to dumb it down abit. V2 for tall climbers v3 for shorter climbers

Sit Start as for Theo's Warm Up then traverse right around arete and top out.

Walk up the slab with no hands, some novelty fun

Sit Start as for Turtle then traverse the entire slab into no hands and top out.

Multi-pitch boulder problem. Pitch 1 Sit start under overhanging lip, mantle. Pitch 2 walk up to the scoop and mantle the lip

Sit Start on large low sloper, climb the horizontals, top put over the bulge.

Start as for Skitz but immediately traverse left under the overhang to top out as for other project line.

Climb Skitz to the horizontal at 3m, traverse right into The Club to finish.

Sit Start on the low LH jug rail, climb buckets to top out.

Sit Start with LH jug and RH high edge, short and stout over the bulge.

The line up the centre of the slab. V-scary

Sit Start on low jug rail, pull to another jug rail and low-key mantle up.

Sit Start matched on the low jug rail, hit the lip and mantle the bulge via pocket.

Start as for The Send Tree pulling all the moves until you hit the lip, then traverse right and top out as for Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels.

A sick, slightly contortiony line. Sit Start matched in the slot, move left around the corner onto small edges and up the ramp to top outand touch the send-tree.

V7ish Sit Start with RH in the good pocket and LH on the higher slopey crimp, bust right onto slopey edges then wrestle up the arete with a tough mantle to tickle that send-tree

The line of slopers left of Campus Mike

The line on the rounded arete left of Grasp.

V7ish? Start on the low sloper rail, traverse left to gain the pockets, dyno to a hectic sloper, bust out again to better holds in the horizontal, top out. She's tall!

The line left of She's Taller Than Me and I Dig it.

Left of Crusher, pull onto big jug, head up and trend left to top out.

Sit Start on jug rail under lip, mantle out.

Sit start on the slots, traverse up and left via more good rails to mantle out.

From where the track first meets the main cliff walk left around the base, after about 50m there is an alcove. Take the right arête of the alcove until a chimney appears on the left. This is a huge chimney with big guano stains on the right side. Finish on Requiem Ledge. Mark Witham, Matt Adams 25/11/89.

1. 30m 8; Start up the face with horizontals 5m left of Whip Me. Low grade climbing with sparse gear for the first 10m (plenty for the rest of the climb), then duck left around the main over hang and onto a slab. Swing a leg up and over the RH arête, then traverse up and left on a second slab with good holds to a large belay ledge. 2) 10m 8; Finish as for Whip Me, low grade scramble up to Requiem Ledge.

Start just right of the pine tree. Up the corner for two moves then step onto the overhanging flake arete. Up the flake, through the roof and onto the final slab. Matt Adams, Mark Witham 26/11/89.

The crack about 4m right of Requiem, through the roof and up the slab.

Start left of anti-Iraqi graffiti. Bulging line and overlaps.

Wall left of Uncomfortably Numb.

Traverse to the left under main roof below the summit. Start by descending chimney under the 'Nerve Test'. The route starts at the dead tree.

The prominent corner below the summit is a most enjoyable climb with excellent protection and some good positions. Up the narrow chimney and out left around the roof. Continue in the line past a ledge and a dead tree to a wider finish.

A diagonal line leading right on an easy angled face right of Fried Fingers.

Start on the orange rock at the far left of the horizontal on 2 jugs. Traverse R to the corner, duck down and under, move right, then top out.

Crouch-start with the hands in the obvious low scoop. Climb through the break, and then straight up. Finagle a way to gain the lip, and then figure out how the mantle works. (Due to the nature of the landing, this boulder gets high very quickly.)

Sit start on high LH sidepull and lower RH sidepull. Move up via 2 big dishes before making a big move to a very positive lip. Top out via sloper rail above.

Sit Start matched in port hole feature. Bust up and left to sloper on large horizontal break spanning the length of the boulder. Follow it left until you meet 2 fat ladies and finish for that.

Sit start in Port hole of Earl Grey but head straight up and top out.

Sit start on low break and climb through the pockets to top out on slopers.

Sit start on the large side pull. Climb through the blocky holds and top out.

Sit start on the large slot. Climb through the crimps and top out on good holds.

Stand start on small crimps and climb through balancy moves to top out over a bad landing.

Sit start on low LH sidepull and small RH crimp. Top out above.

An area classic and definitely worth the walk. Named for the graffiti adorning the wall at its start. Start matched on good horizontal and slap up the deceivingly slopey arête.

Start from good horizontal rail above Nerve Test grafiti, climb around using arete into small chasm between the boulder and the quornite wall. Stem your way up through chasm to top.

Project line on the left wall (as you are looking at the entrance to the Nerve Test).

Takes the direct line up very scooped section of rock at right end of wall. One FH.

Move up corner at left end of wall (marked by a bright yellow streak) past a bolt. Continue with caution out right along the first horizontal break where good friends offer protection.

From the ledge climb the slab to bolt, move right under the overhang then through it. Finish near chasm south of the summit.

5m left of Contrasts. Follow corner to roof, traverse right (2 bolts).

Overhang, then slab right of Beelzebub Boulder.

The slab right of Mmm Love Triangle.

6m left of Little Devil (Contrasts Wall) and right of the 'Araps' like arete, climb the corner/crack through a roof.

Start just right of centre. Move up and left above a bolt to a horizontal break. Up past another bolt continue to the top to the third bolt on the right. Sport / Trad.

Start as for Satanic Nurses, move up right past two horizontal breaks. Move left to Satanic Nurses's third bolt and up.

Up the left side of the boulder to the corner. One bolt.

Start at the right hand end near the descent track. Up the slab to roof traverse left for break and up final corner.

Start in the large corner left of I'm So Thin, to the roof then exit left for 5m, then up weakness.

Start as for Mum's Mat to the roof, but traverses right on tenuous moves until the ground is reached.

Starts right of the large crack 10m right of Gorillas In The Mist. Follow the highest break, keeping your hands in the break.

Take the middle line through the flake system.

A hard start them amble up the corner.

A similar proposition to A Taste of Honey at Araps. Up The Quest for Obscurity until it is possible up the wall above.

Fun little problem. Get it? A fairly typical Francis route - a thin, off vertical wall requiring some precision. Begin at the base of the rock step and climb the face above.

An absolute path up the wall right of Flip.

Up the obvious crack right of Ambling and left of Nightstalker. Well protected.

Further right are two widish cracks. This takes the centre of the buttress separating them.

Begin up the vague crack on the front right of this narrow buttress and join the original at the horizontal.

Right of Night Stalker is a short rock step down to an alcove. The Alcove has 2 cracks. This takes the right hand crack. At the top of the crack move right.

A roof above a sloping base. Up onto two horns. Sit on the left horn and stand up. Move left for runners then back right for #4 friend. Continue straight up.

The left hand line on the wall with a hard start that took some bouldering. Somehow gain the horizontal then up to a poor rest at the base of the vertical crack. Fire up this to step left to an easier finale.

Start about 8m right of Evil Angels at the obvious holds. Move up to stance on top of ledge trend left then back right past the horizontal and up into blank territory, keep going for the desperate finish. 4 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks Closed Project.

Start 25 meters right of Evil Angels follow the crack and head left around a small bulge.

Start 4m right of M.F.F.F. climbing the RH crack up to the rooflet. Traverse L under the overhang and finish as for M.F.F.F.

The large crack 1m right of F.O.F. Well protected. Spicy Finish.

The steep orange wall with black stripes just around the corner right of PJ. An unfinished Matt Adams project with 2 bolts and finger pocket in between. Not much else.

Right of the Matt Adams project and left of the top access flake is an overhanging and mildly flaring crack.

Right of A.S.T.A.C. is a large flake of rock leaning away from the main wall. Chimney up between the flake and the main wall for a good way to access the top. Be careful of the drop.

A left to right traverse of the bloc. Start matched on a ledge on the left. Traverse left keeping under the overhang and mantle the right hand side.

Stand-start with the hands in the small juggy heuco. Work up through the edges, move slightly left, underneath the vague weakness in the bulge. Bust some moves, figure how to move the feet, and then figure out how to mantle. Somewhat spicy, due to the landing. (A star has been subtracted due to a painful hold.)

Stand start matched on the horizontal. Use the undercling to gain the sloper. Out to an edge then jump to the top. Easy mantle.

Left of the leaning wall is a small gully scramble to access the top. Climb the big step and step over dead trees veering right under a tree branch at a boulder to reach another small gully. Scramble up the wall on the right to gain the top, then walk East to another small 2m down-climb marked by a cairn. Duck along a ledge under a small overhang heading South until you can get onto the main plateau. Here you can find 2, 1 bolt wrap stations and 1, 2 bolt set of chains for serious wrapping. Most of the climbs can be setup as top-ropes by wrapping over the edge and dropping your rope on a set of chains.

Begin in the wide chimney/cave at the left end of the wall. Climb up inside this as far as possible before wriggling out onto the wall proper. Follow the crack for a few moves, then switch to the wall on the left and finish up this.

Start right of T.M.L. on a slopey diagonal. Clip the low bolt and climb through the crux on small holds. Enjoy big moves on big holds trending right to finish at the chains. 6 bolts + chains. Matty Broadbent Closed Project 2016.

The large crack right of F.O.T.B. Trad gear with chains to finish.

Follows prominent right facing corner stepped by roofs to a set of chains.

Stuart Williams climbed this line free until one or two moves below the top when he fell. He did this in 1988 before any bolts were placed. Now follow the line of bolts left and around the flake before joining the line up the steep wall. 3 bolts then trad + chains. Bolts are rusty and need replacing (installed pre 1990). Chains are new (2016).

Originally climbed by Matt Adams on trad gear, now climb the huecoed crack 2m right of G.O.S. stepping left at the 4th bolt to end up face past many horizontal breaks. 6 bolts + chains.

Right of L.W.O. 3 rusted bolts can be seen leading up the blank slab and over a small rooflet. Attempted by Hamish Meffin in the 1980s. CURRENT OPEN PROJECT. Nice set of new chains (2016) at the top to clip when you send it. Replacing the bolts on the climb would be a good idea before you try this, they are old (1980's) and rusty.

An old Meffin project. Start in the rightward leaning crack trending right, then trend back left halfway up. 7 bolts + chains.

Start on the cheat stone and step up into the leaning undercling crack. Trend right past a double crux at the 2nd and 3rd bolts to gain good holds, then follow the sequential horizontal breaks into a 3rd and potent crux. 6 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016

Up the crack right of S.F.P. Attempted by Mark Witham & Hamish Meffin in the 1980s before lowering off fixed wire, which still remains. A core intensive layback leads to tough jamming and a rather dynamic crux. Stay off the right hand wall. Great gear at the bottom leads to a fixed wire, followed by 2 bolts in the crux section. Mixed route, 2 bolts + chains.

Climb onto the Bulbous Butt Plug, get your hands in the horizontal (3rd bolt) then traverse right all the way across the wall for a Corporal Cum-Shot finish. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016.

Crank through a tough start then head left at the left-curving slopey arête up the white/orange wall for a cruxey finish. Top out to chains. Robert Brooks CLOSED PROJECT 2016.

Stick clip the first bolt right of The Barren then start 2m right of the bolt and boulder up and left on small holds and micro footers to gain the second bolt. Follow the line of bolts to the lip where the holds seem to run out in a balancey finish. Top out to chains. CLOSED PROJECT 2016.