Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fr 31. Mai 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
18 | ★ Pain heals - mit Michael Moore | 12m | ★ Gut | |||
Not the best line at the cliff but another worthy line in its own right at the grade
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So 26. Mai 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
23 leicht | ★ Trajectory Direct - mit Mark, Alex, Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
This is neat, deserves another star. Delicate start and the more moves you do the easier it gets so just keep shuffling! Feels pretty soft for a gara 23
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12 | ★ Pluck a Duck - mit Mark, Alex, Todd Free | 7m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Mi 22. Mai 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons - mit Michael Moore, Matt | 15m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Footer blew on scrittle at the start, then got up the flake and traversed to the roof crack and rested. Half did the move through the lip. Pumped silly
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Sa 18. Mai 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Mountain Berry Blast - mit Volodymyr K, Michael Moore, Matt Nethery | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
SEND! No big deal in the end, just take my time and keep shaking out. Good stamina route for me
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Fr 26. Apr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - mit carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
The new gear beta is great walking or unclipping behind you, leaving just 2 reds at the first lip and two yellows at the second. Fell at crux again, the jams are fine I just need much more weetbix and more stamina.
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22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer - mit carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Repeat for the paparazzi. Did something weird at the top and missed a hold and did a funky rockover to finish
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22 | ★★ Morning Glory - mit carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 20m | ★ Gut | |||
The first third is horribly hollow and loose for gear but otherwise climbs well. Topped out on the ledge. Didn’t do the crack which needs a good clean. Not inspired to lead it
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Mi 24. Apr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit - mit Volodymyr K | 7m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Stoked Volo got this for the 3rd ascent. Almost day flashed it, but ripped off the sweet crux undercling and was gutted. But turned out its still quite doable without it, maybe slightly harder but same grade. Got it 3rd go.
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Mi 24. Apr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Ketamine - mit Volodymyr K | 5m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Gara delivers another classic hiding in plain sight. Felt impossible at first and slowly unlocked the micro beta. Had a bunch of 'ok one last go's, mincing up my right thumb and then stoked to send it when I was thrashed and thought I was going backwards
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V3 | ★★ Pseudoephedrine - mit Volodymyr K | 5m | ★ Gut | |||
V2 | ★ Echidna flake - mit Volodymyr K | 4m | ★ Gut | |||
Mo 1. Apr 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
20 | ★ Moistened Bint - mit Volodymyr K, Laura Price, Bryn Norris, Peter Forsyth | 7m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
20 | ★ Moistened Bint - mit Volodymyr K, Laura Price, Bryn Norris, Peter Forsyth | 7m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 23. Mär 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - mit Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.
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20 |
★★ Rites Of Passage
- mit
Michael Moore
1
Rapped in and scrubbed what I thought was the line. Got to second bolt and ventured right into nothing, footer broke and fell. Jugged up the rap line and did some lichen archaeology and found the real line and then resumed from the second bolt clean to the top. The crux is start of the arete at the 4th bolt and pretty happy to flash the real line. Honestly tempted to log the whole route as a flash just to see if @best_of_thecrag pulls me up on it
2
Kept going up this stellar hand crack as a single pitch. | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
This one has been on the list for ages and I should have done it years ago, its one of the best routes in the gorge! It climbs well and it's in a top spot
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Fr 8. Mär 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - mit Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go
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Do 29. Feb 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - mit Michael Moore | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background
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22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer — 2 Versuche - mit Michael Moore | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Had one flash pumpy burn, figured out the start which ended up being the quite straight forward and exactly how I originally thought it would go. Had a second hang at the 3rd bolt which is probably the true crux. Clean second go. The end feels spicy but you just keep moving and its totally fine.
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So 18. Feb 2024 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Cloud Grazer - mit Ben Vincent | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Was totally ruined after attempting kiss me deadly. Had a few comical prawn cramps. Got all the moves except the crux at the second bolt. Recommend morning shade and not sweltering arvo direct sun. Maybe 23
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - mit Ben Vincent | 30m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Whoa! Epic, daunting, steep, tantalizing, humbling
Lead to first roof and then shut down |
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Sa 30. Dez 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V2 ~V1 | ★★ Mother's Milk - mit Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 6m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
I remember being freaked out watching Ben on this but this time it just seemed like no big deal looking up at it. You absolutely do not want to fall but it might even be a V0.
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V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore - mit Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 1m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super happy with how I re-sent this, very smooth and controlled didn't struggle or grovel at all. All in the hips
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V5 | ★★★ Blokus - mit Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 6m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Felt pretty hard getting back on this, took long breaks to save skin and made each go count. Got it maybe 3rd or 4th try
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Sa 30. Dez 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - mit Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Second go, not sure I'll ever get sick of it
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Fr 1. Dez 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 leicht | ★★ Capstone Project - mit Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Did the traverse fine and then gassed myself on the mantle. Needed to just get much deeper and palm up and fight a bit more. Don't think my commitment level was the same with time limit and heat. I think I was expecting it to feel a lot easier the second time round.
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22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - mit Ben Vincent | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
On a tight time mission, rushed the lower crux and pulled on a draw. The top crux felt really different the second time and still a bit desperate, the karate chop jam does not feel secure but its over quick enough.
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Fr 24. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 leicht | ★★ Capstone Project - mit Simon Porter, Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.
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Sa 18. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
★★ alternate end - mit Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | ★ Gut | |||||
Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day
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22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - mit Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.
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Mo 13. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Art of Misdirection - mit Simon Porter | 15m, 6 | ||||
So 15. Okt 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort - mit Simon Porter | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Didn't actually attempt, just belayed Simon - used to be able to log 'phantom' ticks but can't see how to do that anymore
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21 leicht | ★★ Capstone Project - mit Simon Porter | 15m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Route was naturally a bit dirty again, takes slight bit of shine off. Progress was made. Route is in shade until 10am
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So 1. Okt 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Powers Lab | ||||||
★ Powers Lime - mit Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 3m | ★ Gut | ||||
Cleaned half of this and had a bit of an admittedly low commitment go
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V3 | ★★★ Powers Lab - mit Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 5m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Super classic, did a few laps on it including a no feet campus lap until the last mantle. This time we just took a single mat and moved / held it in place and way easier than trying to fix them in place with gear over the water
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So 1. Okt 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
South-Western Boulders Crack Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ The crack - mit Volodymyr K, Bryn Norris, Laura Price, Soph, Emily, Simon Porter | 4m | ||||
Sa 23. Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 leicht | ★★ Capstone Project - mit Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Working and aided the moves
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19 | ★★ Springer - mit Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
The boulder start to this is really cool
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17 | ★ Keystone corruption - mit Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Durchschnitt | |||
I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.
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So 10. Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas Gate Boy Boulder | ||||||
V0 | ★★ Gate Boy Crack - mit Michael Moore | 5m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Approach shoes with no pad. Great hands
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So 10. Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
13 | ★★ Youth Beauty Fame - mit Michael Moore | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super easy fun, the jugs rails would be amazing if they were on a steeper angle. The little chimney finish scrubbed up nicely for something a bit different
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16 | ★★ A Dash of Loneliness - mit Michael Moore | 20m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Cruisy and flowly and a delight, just like impunity but more consistent. A #3 works in the first horizontal but a #4 is better
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27 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars - mit Michael Moore | 25m | ||||
'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags
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So 27. Aug 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - mit Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Pulled on and did the crux move, got to the rail and kinda lost steam. Very tired after the last 2 days in the gorge
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V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - mit Volodymyr K | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Covered in pine needles, started to sprinkle
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V0 | ★ Stuart - mit Volodymyr K | 4m | ★ Gut | |||
Sa 26. Aug 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Psychosomatic Wall | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Tactical vomit - mit Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 7m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Man oh man what an experience! Thing thing was such a find but I wasn't sure where or how it would finish. After we all had a few goes unlocking it bit by bit I got to the far right fantastic side pinch and then prepped to grovel my way up and out of the chimney. I fought and wrestled and thrutched and thought I was off a few times and then finally back my back pressed high and dry and was basically done and then ... slid out. Gutted! Utterly exhausted and a dry mouth wreck, had a gulp of what in hindsight was waaay too much fluid and then felt much worse. Spent the next 10 mins retching. Meanwhile Ben sends it and they're egging me to get back on it while I feel like death. Then finally I have a couple vomits of red poweraid, and after a few more mins I'm good to go, shoe up and, this time actually using some technique instead of brute force, send it! Stoked with the send and feeling elated I then take 2 steps and sink to the ground retching again for good measure
A genuinely and metaphorically, categorically sick day |
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22 | ★★ The games climbers play - mit Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 15m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
After a few goes it looked like this thing might be way too staunch. Micro beta sorted it out, little far right side pull, lean left to chip and very careful match, then power through the slopers and up to the easier stuff before gravity realized what you did. It's hard to judge how many goes when you get shut down on the second move, maybe 5
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Sa 26. Aug 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort - mit Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go
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Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
V0 | ★ Rail - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★ Gut | |||
V0 | ★ Rubik's cube - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ||||
Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Scultpure garden | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Open up and say - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Vulcanology area | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Vulcanology - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Still no resend but pretty happy to be slapping the last hold a few times
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Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central Boulders Mozzie Rock | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Mozzie Rock - mit Finn, Noah Craven | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 16. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Impunity - mit Blue Mountains Orangutan | 20m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style
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18 | ★★★ Innocence - mit Blue Mountains Orangutan | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
So good, a couple spicy moves still but its all there
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Mi 12. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Southern Comfort | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Scrubbing, worked out all the moves
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So 11. Jun 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Wired World of Sport - mit Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 10m, 2 | ||||
Really dogged this and had to aid to the last bolt. Surely something has ripped off, the start is great but then getting to the sloper ledge is either a big dyno, or a massive ape span, or off super minging sharp crimps. Second bolt isn't in the best position.
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17 | ★★ Cross wired - mit Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 8m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
15 | ★★ Hubris - mit Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 6m, 2 | ★ Gut | |||
14 | ★★ Charity - mit Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 20m | ||||
Toyed with a direct start, should scrub up into something
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16 | ★★ Hope - mit Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 25m | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 9. Jun 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jet B - mit Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Clean on top rope first go, then took maybe 4 goes to get it clean on lead. Everything is subtle, every try I used different holds and took a while to settle on a sequence
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16 | ★ Transit lounge - mit Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Warmup
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Sa 27. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - mit Michael Moore, Denni Heywood, Nora | 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Got another couple moves into the crux than last time, got high foot on the little chip but couldn't balance on it to straighten up. Feels like its only 2 moves away but I found it nails. Did the slopey foot traverse out of the crux.
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So 21. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Cluster | ||||||
★★★ Broke back mantel - mit Ben Vincent | 4m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
A real tantalizing test piece that draws you in and makes you want to do it. Both of us feeling tired and the more we pulled on the more stoke was generated. Around 15 tries each
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★★★ Gluteus maximus levitatum - mit Ben Vincent | 5m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
A proper session, had a few goes going feet first and got almost sitting on the slopey exit with a toe cam. I am in love with this weird problem. Can't believe its been 7 years
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So 21. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Max friction boulders | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Side pull caliper - mit Ben Vincent | 2m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Ace little problem. Onsight but dabbed, did it a couple times in different ways
|
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So 21. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jet B - mit Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ||||
Top rope scrub, all the holds are delicate but its all there and relatively obvious sequence
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23 | ★★ Tarmac - mit Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Pulled through the first crux just fine, popped a foot at the second crux for a one hang
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20 | ★ Jetlag - mit Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
18 | ★★ Pushback - mit Ben Vincent, Todd Free, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
One hard move and you're on the way, another lovely additional to the family
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Fr 19. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Sideslip | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So lovely and juggy
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15 | ★ Soft field | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
The entire way up I was constantly blowing lots of dust off every move, considered calling it 'Solo blow job' but this is a PG rated crag
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16 | Short Field | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Fr 12. Mai 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - mit Michael Moore | 20m, 12 | ||||
Not quite sure how to log this I wish there was just a 'note' non-ascent ascent type. I rapped down this, gave Michael a catch on chicks, then jugged up and was intending to lead this later. Barely 3-4m up I saw a fluff on my rope above, as I got to it I saw core. It's totally shot with 2cm of unsheathed core and bends completely 180. Brand new birthday rope used only a handful of times, and cut almost exactly at the half way mark. Gutted, did not climb at all. Still not clear exactly what cut it and when.
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Fr 28. Apr 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - mit Todd Free, Simon Porter, Michael Moore, Benji Dutaillis | 20m, 12 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Fairly cruisy, maybe 19 until the crux kicks in on the second face
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So 16. Apr 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction Humpty Dumpty area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Idiopathic - mit Volodymyr K, Soph, Todd Free | 8m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Should scrub up with traffic into an ok little route, still the odd loose bits. The start is nice.
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So 16. Apr 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tarmac - mit Volodymyr K, Soph, Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Got it clean 3rd go, worked out so high step beta for the second high crux
|
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20 | ★ Jetlag - mit Volodymyr K, Soph, Todd Free | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
Warmup
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Fr 31. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Powers creek junction The Runway Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Tarmac - mit Alec Eastwood, Thor | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Lots of figuring out, a few popped holds. Burly start and delicate consistent slab moves with another little crux to the glory jug
|
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17 | ★★ Overhead compartment - mit Alec Eastwood, Thor | 8m, 2 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Took a little bit to figure out the mantle but its not too bad
|
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16 | ★ Transit lounge - mit Alec Eastwood, Thor | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice flow to this
|
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20 | ★ Jetlag - mit Alec Eastwood | 10m, 3 | ★ Gut | |||
The old sling at the top was totally ghetto
|
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So 19. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Acolytes Cauldron - mit Volodymyr K, Mark, Alex | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
So 19. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Sweet Surrender - mit Volodymyr K | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
First go today
|
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Fr 17. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block | ||||||
★★★ Star craft - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | |||||
This thing is cool and hard. Also would have some variant finishes out left which look cooler and harder
|
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V3 | ★★ Star grazing - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | ||||
Got the sit start, keen to tick this fresh and with a pad
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V1 | ★ Star crack - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | ||||
Nice little layback. Used the big foot out right, should eliminate that next time. Might also be a caving squeeze under the whole boulder to check out after cleaning out the dead black berries
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V0 | Easy slab - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 3m | ||||
24 | ★★★ Sweet Surrender — 4 Versuche - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Had a good working go, and then I was pretty confidant I could get it, then had 3 frustrating burns all getting through the crux statically and then messing up the last move to the glory jug. Next time when I'm fresh
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23 | ★★★ Trapeze - mit Alec Eastwood, Michael Moore | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Fresh body, turned up late when Michael had just sent and did it clean first go
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Fr 10. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Shooting Star Block | ||||||
21 | ★ Low Flying Angel - mit Michael Moore | 8m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
First go wasn't sure where to pop to the letter box, got it second go. A mist of fine bugs
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Sa 4. Mär 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
24 | ★★ Crawling King Snake Blues - mit Michael Moore, Alec Eastwood | 12m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Great rock, cool features down low. Did all the moves and the dyno side jump finish is cool and works for over the minging off balance crimps
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So 29. Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
North rim boulders Plumbers crack | ||||||
25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack - mit Ben Vincent | 8m | ★ Gut | |||
Reacquainting with all the beta. Felt nails again pulling on, crimps are sharp and none of the jams are really great. Did more or less most of the moves in three sections: off the ground to thin moves to get into the layerback, trick is to hop and swap feet and then chill out a little. For the bulge the sequence which worked well for me was avoid the Salmon tickle that Ben was doing, right hand on the okish slightly downward jam, then left hand ring finger hook into the little meat grinder and pull right through so right falls into the side pull, then feels pretty good out left to crimp the crystal then, right high step and slap the right hand up a few times and profit. Ended up right my right hand under the top rope anchor for an unfun knuckle grate
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So 29. Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Private sector | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Acolytes Cauldron - mit Ben Vincent | 10m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Super stoked with how this route turned out! It's what gara has been missing: easy sport with good clip stances on great water worn rock, interesting features with a crux at the finish and with a clean top out and top rope access.
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Di 27. Dez 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Erudite coprolite - mit carol lee, Michael Moore | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Re-ticked again first time, super hot, keen to get back to the shade
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V5 | ★★★ Space jam - mit carol lee, Michael Moore | 4m | ||||
Another 5-10 goes, lots of micro beta improvements and can just tickle the salmon with left hand into the high jam but still not quite into the good spot.
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