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Begehungen in Savage Amusement Buttress

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Zeigt alle 63 Begehungen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität Kletterer
Fr 1. Dez 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Capstone Project - mit Brendan Heywood Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Sehr gut
Ben Vincent
a little less clean than it's little sibling below, but high quality and very unique! Great to get up the pair on a tight timeframe!

 
22 The Art of Misdirection — 3 Versuche - mit Brendan Heywood Sport 15m, 6 Klassiker
Ben Vincent
After a few failed starts I tried something new and got going. A really surprising route that has a bit of everything. Classic find Skippy!

 
21 leicht Capstone Project - mit Ben Vincent Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
Did the traverse fine and then gassed myself on the mantle. Needed to just get much deeper and palm up and fight a bit more. Don't think my commitment level was the same with time limit and heat. I think I was expecting it to feel a lot easier the second time round.

 
22 The Art of Misdirection - mit Ben Vincent Sport 15m, 6 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
On a tight time mission, rushed the lower crux and pulled on a draw. The top crux felt really different the second time and still a bit desperate, the karate chop jam does not feel secure but its over quick enough.

 
Fr 24. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 The Art of Misdirection - mit Brendan Heywood, Simon Porter Sport 15m, 6 Klassiker
Ben Vincent
Wow, what a route. Three distinct sections of different styles. I was trying pretty hard for the onsight and went home with a dog. Spent an age chalking up a spoogey key hold and gave it my best. Great job Skippy, an instant Gara Classic

 
21 leicht Capstone Project - mit Simon Porter, Ben Vincent Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.

 
So 19. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
alternate end — 2 Versuche - mit Brendan Heywood, Volodymyr K Traditionell Sehr gut
Simon Porter
Had a crack leading straight up amd got massive flash pump. Second attempt following Volo up was better but still a bit of work to be done. Got some good jams through the traverse.

 
22 The Art of Misdirection - mit Brendan Heywood, Volodymyr K Sport 15m, 6 Sehr gut
Simon Porter
Very cool route. Sequency start followed by a short overhung section with loose jams to a massive jug. Thanks to Volo for a bit of clipping assistance 😅.

 
Sa 18. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
alternate end - mit Volodymyr K, Simon Porter Traditionell Gut
Brendan Heywood
Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day

 
22 The Art of Misdirection - mit Volodymyr K, Simon Porter Sport 15m, 6 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
Send! Stoke is high. Executed the bouldery first section perfectly in 2 mins. Then took me around 6 tentative goes up and down over 25 mins to get comfortable with the 5th clip and then slapped and thrutched my way to freedom. It did not climb the way I'd visualized.

 
Mo 13. Nov 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 The Art of Misdirection - mit Simon Porter Sport 15m, 6
Brendan Heywood
So 15. Okt 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Southern Comfort - mit Brendan Heywood Sport 10m, 3
Simon Porter
Bit of an attempt. Need to get some beta down pat and some more skin for my fingers.

 
22 Southern Comfort - mit Simon Porter Sport 10m, 3 Gut
Brendan Heywood
Didn't actually attempt, just belayed Simon - used to be able to log 'phantom' ticks but can't see how to do that anymore

 
21 leicht Capstone Project - mit Simon Porter Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
Route was naturally a bit dirty again, takes slight bit of shine off. Progress was made. Route is in shade until 10am

 
Sa 23. Sep 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 leicht Capstone Project - mit Noah Craven Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Klassiker
Brendan Heywood
Working and aided the moves

 
19 Springer - mit Noah Craven Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
The boulder start to this is really cool

 
17 Keystone corruption - mit Noah Craven Gemischt trad 15m, 3 Durchschnitt
Brendan Heywood
I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.

 
Sa 26. Aug 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Southern Comfort - mit Brendan Heywood, Alec Eastwood Sport 10m, 3 Gut
Ben Vincent
A little more prepped than it’s neighbour. Classic Gara crimps with a fun finish!

 
22 Tac Tic Toe - mit Brendan Heywood, Alec Eastwood Toprope 8m Gut
Ben Vincent
A punchy, short and sharp number. Was please when enough stayed on to get the send. Really needs some key holds glued if it is to last.

 
22 Southern Comfort - mit Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood Sport 10m, 3 Gut
Brendan Heywood
Glad to finally get on this and send after its long incubation period, got it 3rd go

 
Mi 12. Jul 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Southern Comfort Sport 10m, 3 Gut
Brendan Heywood
Scrubbing, worked out all the moves

 
So 29. Jan 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice - mit Ash Powell, georgie, ned Gemischt trad 10m, 1
Simon Porter
21 Poetic Justice - mit Simon Porter, ned, georgie Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Klassiker
Ash Powell
Pretty fun! Minimal features but good enough.

 
So 11. Dez 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice - mit Ned Gemischt trad 10m, 1
Simon Porter
Sa 20. Aug 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
20 Bootleg - mit Simon Porter Traditionell 15m Gut
Michael Moore
Quite a staunchy number. Would be amazing if the thin starting crack continued for twice the length.

 
22 Inertia - mit Simon Porter Traditionell 10m Klassiker
Michael Moore
Really good rock, fun jams. I loike it. First few pieces already placed as cbf cleaning after first go.

 
Sa 21. Mai 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
20 Bootleg - mit Bryn Norris, Volodymyr K Traditionell 15m Sehr gut
Laura Price
really fun climb!!

 
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Laura Price, Volodymyr K Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Bryn Norris
Insanely hard crux, definitely worth a revisit!

 
20 Bootleg - mit Laura Price, Volodymyr K Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Bryn Norris
Awesome climb! Sat on my gear once for a confidence boost.

 
20 Bootleg - mit Laura Price, Volodymyr K Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Bryn Norris
Awesome climb! Sat on my gear once for a confidence boost.

 
Mo 2. Mai 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Inertia - mit Brendan Heywood, Laura Price, Volodymyr K, Michael Moore Traditionell 10m Klassiker
Bryn Norris
Awesome climb, couldn't quite crack the crux

 
Sa 30. Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Inertia - mit Volodymyr K, Michael Moore, Laura Price, Bryn Norris Traditionell 10m Sehr gut
Brendan Heywood
First time I've been on the 'real' inertia, always been confused by the bolts. This route is quality. Take care to extend gear over the sharper lips to save your rope. Was lightly raining, the cross through move at the lip shut me down and was a bit rushed to spend time working it.

 
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Brendan Heywood Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Michael Moore
Woooooo! Dude, absolutely classic. Bomber rock, number of different styles of climbing in the one route, crazy top out, loved it. Tell ya what I had to fight for it though, heel hook popped on the bulge crux and had to squeeze with all my might to stay on, spicy. Gear: #4, #0.75, 2x#0.5, 2x long extenders and three draws 🤙

 
Fr 29. Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
20 Bootleg - mit Michael Moore Traditionell 15m Gut
Brendan Heywood
Steeper than it looks, no jambs just laybacking. Flash pumped and hung, but once you figure out the sweet spots the crux is over way too soon. I got onto the top of the roof after some gardening and there is a big dead tree before you can get to savage amusement. SA needs some big cleanup to finish. Ended up back climbing and I think I did it in better style than the ascent

 
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Michael Moore Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Brendan Heywood
Glad Michael made me get back on this, super stoked to get the 3rd bolt on the first go. Worked the top a bit and got the second crux, didn't do the top slab.

 
Di 12. Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Huw Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Michael Moore
Got all the moves down now but man that top section before the slab took a while to figure out. Super funky corner with little to no holds, just working with the angles. Super rad! Esoteric classic Paul Frothy Thomson where you at?

 
So 10. Apr 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Clive Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Michael Moore
PPFFWAAAHHH she's goey. Very funky and very cool. Keen to come back with some more time and clean up the top for another whirl.

 
Mo 5. Jul 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Match
First shot involed mining through the dead trees at the top. There is no suitable anchor at the top besides trees well back. (maybe consider lower offs as this route is proper classic).

Second shot involved me pulling the crux then rather than using a leading heel hook I chose to use a leading sheniqua ( my butt) to shuffle onto the ledge. Turns out that lichen is quite slippery and I started sliding off upside down to my horror.

Managed to recover though ahaha

 
So 4. Jul 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement - mit Match Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Michael Moore
Missed out on the onsight, locks up high were a super awkward size for me. Taped up the fingers and got it second go though 👍

 
Sa 8. Dez 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Sehr gut
Andrew Woolley
interesting, enjoyable problem

 
Sa 31. Okt 2015 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Alan Ezzy, Brendan Heywood Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Mega-Klassiker
Ben Vincent
Wow, what a sick route. Very bold committing lead through the floating block section (despite the carrots) to an awkward space. And just when you think it's all over and you've made it, the top-out offers one last surprise move that your pumped out little T-Rex arms are only just capable of pulling off. Much fun!

 
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Brendan Heywood
Utterly frothing over this! Tried this a bunch over the years - the last time was at least a decade ago. Alan Ezzy worked it out, then Ben Vincent did it smoothly, then I went up with no (or low?) expectations, pulled on easily, forgot to unclip, unclipped mid crux statically, chilled out then moved smoothly through the awkward bit to the top rope. I've been so shut down on this before and I couldn't be happier. Probably should have done it again on lead like the others but stoked regardless.

 
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock - mit Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Klassiker
Alan Ezzy
Really good and a little frightening. Classic, best line on the cliff (?) .

 
So 1. Mär 2015 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Mega-Klassiker
Match
This climbing is so awesome got stuck at the sloper crux definatly a one move wonder but such amazing climb

 
Sa 28. Feb 2015 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement - mit Match, Alan Ezzy Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Ben Vincent
Good to get back on this after a decent break. Hung around under the crux and thought about it too much before finishing it. Ample ways to attack the crux, my second shot was clean.

 
Fr 29. Mär 2013 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Sehr gut
Jason Nguyen
Going up after Paul's attempt. Such bizarre, but cool climbing! Aided a LOT of moves.

 
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Paul Frothy Thomson
Pure trad bliss, (it's amazing that this line even GOES on gear), marred only by being difficult to get off the top (especially if you want to do more climbing in the gorge). I rested on the last hard move at the top (crux) after attacking it the wrong way and pumping out. Surprisingly steep, great gear all the way, bomber rock, classy movement. Would've loved another shot for the tick, but it was just too hard to get back to the base of the climb with the time we had left.

 
So 17. Feb 2013 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement - mit Mark and Carol Traditionell 15m Klassiker
Ben Vincent
Great climbing with ample locations for gear. Juggy, slightly overhung and a cool pinch/undercling crux offer plenty of variety.

 
21 Poetic Justice - mit Mark, Alex and Carol Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Gut
Ben Vincent
Better than it looks. A real techy climb with good foot placement required. We found 2x no.2 wires to be best.

 
So 28. Mai 2006 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice Gemischt trad 10m, 1
Brendan Heywood
Mo 11. Jul 2005 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Gut
Brendan Heywood
Fr 1. Mär 2002 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Gut
gordon grant
So 1. Apr 2001 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Sehr gut
James
a crux for short people

 
Di 1. Feb 2000 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
25 Picnic at Hanging Rock Gemischt trad 10m, 3 Gut
gordon grant
2nd climb me n azz ever got on

 
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Gut
gordon grant
1st climb ever, me n azz can pick em

 
1984 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Gut
Richard Curtis
Did it when it was 20

 
1981 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
20 Bootleg Traditionell 15m Sehr gut
John Lattanzio
go for it layback

 
1980 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
22 Inertia Traditionell 10m Gut
John Lattanzio
Fun Roof

 
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Klassiker
John Lattanzio
Did it when it was 20

 
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
20 Bootleg Traditionell 15m
Brendan Heywood
I do remember leading this possibly in the uni days and not getting up it

 
22 Inertia Traditionell 10m
Brendan Heywood
I've been on this a couple times on top rope and lead but I don't think it was prior to the route changing. I have a feeling there is two distinct routes, the original where the bolts are and the obvious crack a few meters left

 
Di 10. Jul 2012 - Upper Gara Gorge
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress
21 Poetic Justice Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Durchschnitt
Bruce Taylor
22 Savage Amusement Traditionell 15m Gut
Bruce Taylor

Zeigt alle 63 Begehungen.

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